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Author Topic: Joffre build  (Read 24634 times)

oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #25 on: March 20, 2013, 12:54:24 AM »

   Now the rudder servo is installed we move over to the electrics. Iím using a 6 volt system in this boat as that is the rating on the Decaperm Iím using.   I cut out a piece of  1/8Ē plywood to fit into the forward hold of the hull. I curved the forward ends of it slightly, to accommodate the shape of the hull. From there I layed out the battery, speed controller and fuse block to determine fit and access. Iíve laid the battery on its side to keep the center of gravity as low as possible. At this rate all the battery will be below water level.
  When I was happy I cut some pine to give me ľĒ square sections to form a fence around the battery location and servo location. This will trap them in place so they donít move around. The battery will eventually be tied down.

  The underside of the plywood was supported with some scrap plywood. This supports the weight of the battery and spreads the weight over the hull.
  When all this glue is dry, tomorrow, Iíll coat the whole wood assembly with fiberglass resin and glue to the inside of the hull.     What about the receiver etc?  Iím looking at making a tray to sit on top of the battery to carry that lot. Again see the Neddy build for a similar set up. It makes for easy access and removal if necessary. The lot can be built on the bench, and even transferred to another vessel if desired.

John

 
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irishcarguy

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #26 on: March 20, 2013, 02:36:12 AM »

 You are making great strides John, & I like the way you think outside the box as well. Mick B.  PS = for those watching this have a good look at John's Smit Nederland. It is well worth a peek. Mick.
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #27 on: March 20, 2013, 03:05:39 AM »

You are making great strides John, & I like the way you think outside the box as well. Mick B.  PS = for those watching this have a good look at John's Smit Nederland. It is well worth a peek. Mick.

Thanks Mick. We're pottering along as best we can. It seems to be making progress.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #28 on: March 24, 2013, 11:45:20 PM »

    With the battery support resined to the hull, I commenced with the installation of the deck. I resined the underside of the deck to begin with. When that was done I tested for fit to the hull. I made sure all the supports for the deck that Iíd installed earlier were clean smooth and ready for use.  I mixed a batch of 15 minute epoxy and liberally applied same to the tops of the bulkheads and the side supports and also the extreme for and aft section soft the deck. The deck was then slipped into place taking care it fit properly all round and sat squarely. I installed weights and clamps where appropriate to hold the deck down until the epoxy set.John
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #29 on: March 27, 2013, 01:02:38 AM »

   With the deck installed I went back to the bulwarks. As Iíd mentioned earlier, the bulwarks a rather rough on the inside . They could be sanded smooth, but I felt the remaining material would have been to thin for safety. Instead I mixed a batch of car body putty and troweled it smoothly along the inside of the bulwarks. I made sure it came right down to the newly installed deck.  When it was set I sanded it smooth all around the inside of the bulwark. The bulwarks will be finished off with supports and other structural members.  The deck installed replicates the steel deck typically put onto ships. On earlier vessels the decks were covered in wood. This one appears to follow that line, except, there is no wood right to the bulwarks or right to the steering quadrant area. These places have been left free for water to run clear.  Instead of making an individually planked deck, Iím trying something on the printed deck. I have a small cutting tool (see pics) that I use to groove wood. Lay a straight edge along the marked lines on the wood decking. Draw the tool (in the pics) down the groove, first with the blade straight up and down, then one pull with the blade laying slightly to the left then to the right. A thin strip of wood can be lifted from the groove leaving the effect of two planks side by side. When done, sand the planks gently to get rid of any fuzz. To finish, stain the wood decking. I use grey as wood in the sun weathers wood to grey. Unless itís a Royal Navy vessel the decks will most certainly be a silvery gray colour of sun bleached wood. When done, draw a thin marking pencil down the groves in the wood to simulate the caulking between the planks. There you have your fauxe planked deck. John
 
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irishcarguy

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #30 on: March 27, 2013, 05:23:58 AM »

Lovely work John & a very good tip as well, Mick B.
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #31 on: March 27, 2013, 10:38:02 AM »

Lovely work John & a very good tip as well, Mick B.

  thanks Mick. Work has slowed down a bit for the moment. I've got a number of other projects on the go and they're taking priority at the moment.


  To our viewers

   This thread was started because someone else was about to start a Joffre and needed some guidance along the way. Has that person started and how are they making out? Would like to compare notes.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #32 on: April 03, 2013, 03:03:10 AM »

  Moving on. This time Iím sorting the holes in the bulwarks for the scuppers. As originally built, and as supplied in the kit, this tug had scupper doors on all the openings. I guess that was the style of the time I suppose. The picture of the prototype shown above in this thread, shows the scuppers rearranged and the size of the openings modified. Just to be different I elected to build mine in this later configuration.  First off, mark out the center line of the scupper openings as per the drawings. Using the center lines as a guide, mark out the full width of the scupper openings. Youíll notice from the photo of the prototype that only two scuppers have full height openings. Mark the height of these two, and mark the shorter openings half that height.  Using a 1/16 drill, drill a series of holes around the perimeter of the scupper  openings being sure not to cross the line and take out more of the bulwark than you intended. With this done, you can either use a round file, followed up by a flat file to clean out the openings nice and square, or you can move things along a bit with the use of a Dremel, or similar, tool. I started with the later and finished with the former.  The drawings donít show bulwark braces or rib extensions for same. I thought Iíd add these as they are a bit of obvious detail on a vessel of this vintage. I started by cutting out strips of styrene about .090 wide (just because I had it to hand). These were cut the height of the bulwark. I cut enough to space out the supports about 6 scale feet around the perimeter of the bulwarks.  T o fasten them to the bulwarks I used CA (cyano) as a glue. When they were set up, I took ľĒ x .020Ē styrene strips and cut them into angles. These were glued with styrene cement to the previously installed uprights. It takes a little while to do, but I think the effect is worth it. John
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #33 on: April 03, 2013, 03:04:50 AM »

..........bulwark supports

John
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tt1

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #34 on: April 03, 2013, 11:27:57 AM »

Hi John, great tutorial and build log as ever -  :-))   I've also been wondering as to whether the chap who initially asked for advice re the Joffre managed to start his build, it was a chap called Bart I think but not noticed any further postings.
                                                   Keep up the good work! regards, Tony.
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eddiesolo

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #35 on: April 03, 2013, 11:50:37 AM »

This is coming on a treat, excellent work and progress, pictures are superb. Keep up the good work.
Si:)
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #36 on: April 03, 2013, 12:03:37 PM »

Thanks Tony and Eddie. We'll keep soldiering along.
I was curious as to how the other chap was making out. Would be good to compare notes.

John
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eddiesolo

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #37 on: April 03, 2013, 12:12:30 PM »

Yeah, he seams to have gone silent, hope the build hasn't been a pain and he has given up  :((
Si:)
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #38 on: April 13, 2013, 01:39:00 AM »

 I've completed the bulwark supports on the Joffre. Bit of tedious work, but I like the effect.
Now its on to painting the hull and deck. As mentioned earlier, I prefer the sun bleached look of silver grey wood on a working tug such as the Joffre. In order to try and accomplish that end I gathered together a 1/2" paint brush (fairly stiff), grey model paint, black model paint and some laquer thinners. A bit of each was put into separate containers.
  i dip the brush into the grey to begin with and take quick light strokes over the deck material. I then dip the brush into the laquer thinner and run the brush back over the grey. this will dissolve the grey and thin it out and allow it to soak into the wood better. You should end up with  an appearance of stained and mottled appearance.
  I periodically then dip the brush into black and quickly skim over the deck material. Do this lightly and quickly, dry brush style. Try and get more black in areas of high traffic or where materials have been laid down or oil has dispersed from machinery (the windlass for example). This should give you the appearance of a deck that is maintained, but has been subject to the traffic and use of a working tug.
  Do the same to the work boats. These will be on and off the tug frequently, moving equipment, hausers, fittings etc, from the tug to the tows and the dock. They will be well used and the wood won't be a pristine varnished finish.
  I also painted the hull with red oxide primer to approximate the anti fouling paint typically used. Before painting the hull, I roughed it up with 600 grit sand paper, then cleaned it with acetone on a rag. Don't touch it with your bare fingers after that, but go straight to paint.
Next session I'll show how to mark it out for the satin black above the water line.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #39 on: April 13, 2013, 11:59:09 PM »

  We continue with painting the hull. The primer has now hardened, we can mark and tape off the water line to apply the black to the upper part of the hull.
  Begin by setting the hull in your stand and make sure its level and even from side to side and end to end. Using a block of wood, or a DTI holder as I have done, clamp a pencil into position to mark the hull at the correct level for the water line. Place the hull/stand and marker on a flat surface and pull the pencil around the outside of the hull. Don't press too hard and use an HB pencil when doing the marking.
  When you have completely circled the hull break out the masking tape. I place a strip of it across a peice of plate glass I use for this technique. Using a ruler and a sharp knife slice the masking tape end to end down the center. Lift one peice of masking tape from the glass and place the cut edge against the hull lining it up with the pencil mark. Moving from one end to the other, press the tape down against the hull being careful to be sure it stays in line with the pencil mark. To be sure the tape is pressed against the surface where the black paint is to be sprayed use small dental spoon or similar to press the edge of the masking tape down.
  After the hull is ringed in masking tape, cover the rest of the underside of the hull with paper to mask it against the black spray. Spray the black paint ( I used a satin black) starting at one end and working to the other. Do light coats so you don't get a large build up against the masking tape. After the first coat, wait for the paint to flash then apply another coat from a different angle to be sure you've covered the whole area. before the paint hardens remove the masking and check for over spray. Any over spray can easily be removed with a pain brush dipped in mineral spirits.
  Hull painting complete. Next, the upper works.

John
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thething84

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #40 on: April 18, 2013, 01:25:30 AM »

looking good. keep it up. we are eagerly watching
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #41 on: April 18, 2013, 04:00:40 AM »

looking good. keep it up. we are eagerly watching

  Thanks very much. I've got more done, just haven't had time to write it up.

John
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thething84

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #42 on: April 18, 2013, 05:01:17 AM »

i don't get much time to do my model. Do the occasional bits. But with a lil 16month child running around its a lil hard.
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #43 on: April 18, 2013, 11:04:25 AM »

i don't get much time to do my model. Do the occasional bits. But with a lil 16month child running around its a lil hard.

  I agree, it can be difficult getting everything in with a growing family. You can only do what you can. Are you building the Joffre too?

John
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thething84

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #44 on: April 18, 2013, 10:45:27 PM »

no. i got a billings banckert. also building a lil springer tug as my backup.
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #45 on: April 23, 2013, 09:55:05 PM »

  I'm working away on the super structure right now. the words and music will follow shortly. In the meantime, I've painted the inside of the bulwarks and installed the supplied decking material.
  Painting the inside of the bulwarks was straight forward. I used an airbrush and Model Master paints. i blended an earth brown with a bit of yellow to come up with the colour. I'm not sure what colour the inner bulwarks are on the prototype, so I settled for this. It doesn't look too bad to me, others may think otherwise. When painting the inner bulwarks be sure to mask the scupper openings on the outside. It eliminates the embaressment of having inner paint on an outer surface and having to explain its your version of weathering.
  After the paint has suitably dried, install the comings into the deck holes. This can be done before the paint, I just did it afterward.
  Lay the provided deck material, with the large holes cut into it, over the deck. Make sure it fits comfortably around the comings. You don't want any hang ups for what comes next. When you're satisfied with location trace around the outside of the deck material with a soft pencil. Remove the deck material. Paint, inside the pencil line, with contact cement and the underside of the decking material. You can use the new water based stuff or the old traditional stinky type. When the contact cement has set up as per instruction, lay the deck material over the sub deck. It will stick on contact. Press it down to be sure it's seated in all the right areas.
  You are now ready for the super structure or the deck fittings, which ever takes your fancy. More on that next.

John
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Tug-Kenny

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #46 on: April 24, 2013, 10:49:11 AM »


That looks very impressive. beautiful job Sir.   :-))


ken

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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #47 on: April 24, 2013, 11:06:47 AM »

That looks very impressive. beautiful job Sir.   :-))


ken

Thanks very much Ken.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #48 on: April 25, 2013, 02:24:46 AM »

  We are making slow progress on the main superstructure or deck house. Initially, when consulting Caldercraft construction notes I found all the pieces to assemble the main deck house were solely number in the book. However, in actual fact the cut wood parts were alphabetical and numerically numbered. There was an seperate paper insert into the construction booklet that showed an exploded diagram of the aplha numeric parts and their relationship. Fine.............however, when it came to parts L7, L8, L9 they didn't show exactly what their relationship was inside the structure. It took a bit of second guessing where to put them, but i think I got it. Also, the above pieces are cut too long to clear the combing around the battery and motor openings. You must cut the internal spacers in order for them to clear the coming.
  i did this by putting the walls over the coming then traced the coming height onto the inside of the cabin walls. The internal seperators were then cut short to clear that traced line (see photo).
  I used Cyano to fasten all the wooden bits together. I cut 90 deg triangles to  fit into the inside corners of a couple of the walls to strengthen the structure and eliminate any racking of the structure that may occur.
  When the structure was offered to the deck, there was a lot of clearance between the deck house and the coming. i'm going to have to fill in the gaps to make the structure fit better and not slop around.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #49 on: April 25, 2013, 02:32:51 AM »

  I took a look at the castings for one of the deck detail parts. They are numerous in this kit with little flash and quite detailed.
I started with the aft steam driven capstan by cleaning the minimal flash from the bits. It was here I noticed the steam supply to the cylinders was upside down. I gently turned the pipe 180 deg without it breaking. I couldn't believe my luck. Looks like someone put the patterns together wrong.
  This mini kit also came with a wooden base for the hardware. However, the base is far to small and I'll have to make another one to suite.

John
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