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Author Topic: Joffre build  (Read 24016 times)

derekwarner

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #50 on: April 25, 2013, 02:49:09 AM »

oldiron.....with this model is there a steam return line from the winch?.....or in real life back then was the steam just exhausted onto the deck?...................Derek
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #51 on: April 25, 2013, 03:48:29 AM »

oldiron.....with this model is there a steam return line from the winch?.....or in real life back then was the steam just exhausted onto the deck?...................Derek

Derek

  There's no steam to condensor modeled. It could be under the engine valve casting and under the capstan base. You're thinking this could be the exhaust. I'm doubtfull since the drawing shows the steam pipe the other way around so it emerges from the deck, also, I would tend to think the exhaust pipe would be kept lower down to the deck and out of the way so it didn't spray exhaust steam and hot water onto the deck crew when in operation. I agree, from a prototype perspective, the capstan could be a once through system though.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #52 on: April 29, 2013, 04:09:18 AM »

  As I mentioned at the start of this exercise I said i would include all mistakes and foibles. Well I'm sure anyone who has built this model will recognize one mistake I did in the deck house that shows up in one of the pictures above.
  One of the internal bulwarks that separate the side walls of the deck house, projects substantially above the back house. It didn't phase me at first as I thought it was the back wall for the wheel house. Not so. When I came to install the fiddly deck (that the stack sits on) the piece I had left over was too short. Ah ha, there's my second clue. I cut the projecting "pilot house back wall" off and spliced it with my too short fiddly deck wanna be and glued the lot into place as the fiddly deck. Now no one will know the difference.
  I continued on with the boiler room coverings that extend to the side of the deck house. This is pretty well straight forward. In order to get a good match to the deck house, sand the upper edge of the addition to an angle to match its location against the deck house. Doing this will offer a better fit and can be better disguised later.
  Her's also a shot of what we have to this point.

John

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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #53 on: April 29, 2013, 04:15:42 AM »

 i like building with plywood, however, when done and painted you can see the grain in the wood which doesn't look to good when the model is of a steel vessel. There are various ways to seal the grain so it doesn't show up. My favourite is to use car body icing to fill the grain. Its a two part mix that applies extremely smoothly, sands well, takes paint and looks great when done.
  Mix the cream as per instruction. Working fast, apply it to the model in a thin layer. When it hardens, sand until smooth and apply a primer, then paint of your choice. the effect is of a metal surface with no grain showing through.

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #54 on: April 29, 2013, 04:17:06 AM »

 I cut a larger piece of bass wood to go underneath the steam powered capstan for the aft deck. Its ready for paint and installation.

John
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irishcarguy

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #55 on: April 29, 2013, 06:57:36 AM »

Lovely work John & you are getting so much done so fast. I have just had two great weeks without an ache or a pain then just when all seems o/k my wrist feels like it has a real bad sprain. I can't remember doing anything to hurt it , but right now it is driving me up the wall the pain is so bad. Tomorrow I was hoping to finish off the TR6 engine I have been building but if my hand/wrist don't improve it is dead stop I am afraid.Keep up the posts & pictures, Mick B. 
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Mick B.

oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #56 on: April 29, 2013, 11:40:22 AM »

Lovely work John & you are getting so much done so fast. I have just had two great weeks without an ache or a pain then just when all seems o/k my wrist feels like it has a real bad sprain. I can't remember doing anything to hurt it , but right now it is driving me up the wall the pain is so bad. Tomorrow I was hoping to finish off the TR6 engine I have been building but if my hand/wrist don't improve it is dead stop I am afraid.Keep up the posts & pictures, Mick B.

Sorry to hear of the agro Mick.. Try some Tylanol. It works for me to get rid of the inflamation.

Funny you say I'm going fast on the model. I was feeling like I was moving at a lathargic pace.

John
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Capt Podge

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #57 on: April 29, 2013, 10:52:17 PM »

She's coming on a treat there John  :-))
 
I have a question for you - do you varnish the hull to protect the paintwork while carrying on with the superstructure etc..?
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #58 on: April 30, 2013, 12:48:06 AM »

She's coming on a treat there John  :-))
 
I have a question for you - do you varnish the hull to protect the paintwork while carrying on with the superstructure etc..?
 
Regards,
 
Ray.

 Ray

 Thanks for the comments.

 No, i don't think I've ever varnished a hull on any vessel I've built when I think about it. About the only time I put something over is to protect the decals and lettering if its a wet transfer type lettering. Can't say I've ever had problems with the paint lifting.

John
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Capt Podge

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #59 on: May 01, 2013, 09:37:44 PM »

Oke doke, thanks John - I've always varnished mine but that's to try and stop the paint surface getting too grubby 'coz I'm a bit of the messy type, especially where glues are concerned  :embarrassed:
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 
 
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #60 on: May 13, 2013, 04:19:48 AM »

The nice weather is finally here. I've been taking time doing outdoors spring chores, so haven't had much time in the workshop lately.
 We take this opportunity to continue. i last left the deck house covered in body icining. this was to fill the grain in the wood deck house structure to give it a more "steel" appearance when the assembly is painted. Using high build primer alone will not completely do the job. The icing was sanded down to smooth and glazing putty used to pick out any nicks and scratches from my less than adequate handy work. this was again sanded, then the deck house sprayed in high build primer. When dry it was sanded again and a close inspection made for any flaws.
  During the drying process's I started to put together some of the cast metal bits. the castings on this model are a real treat. They have little flash and the detail is excellent. I started with the windlass. Its fairly straight forward, but be careful, there are some very small bits in the kit. I used cyano and epoxy to fasten the components together.
  When you have finished the windlass, place it on the deck and mark the holes in the windlass base onto the deck. These are the areas where the anchor chain will have to pass through. Remove the windlass and drill then file the four holes to the appropriate size.
   With that complete, i started on the towing hooks attached to the main deck house. Here again the construction is quite straight forward. I used epoxy to fasten these components together. Make sure the parts are quite clean and the matting surfaces are roughened up a little.
  when that was complete I started installing the cast metal doors on the deck structure. Put a small piece of 1/8"  plywood under the door to give the correct spacing off the deck. I used thick cyano to fasten the doors the structure.

John
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irishcarguy

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #61 on: May 13, 2013, 07:42:58 AM »

Hi John, the castings look first class & as usual you are doing a great job with the build. As for weather, we went from Winter to Summer in a couple of days, would you believe 30c on Friday.It has been one strange year so far.When are you heading west, hope to see you soon. Mick B.
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Mick B.

oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #62 on: May 13, 2013, 10:27:57 AM »

Hi John, the castings look first class & as usual you are doing a great job with the build. As for weather, we went from Winter to Summer in a couple of days, would you believe 30c on Friday.It has been one strange year so far.When are you heading west, hope to see you soon. Mick B.

  Mick
  Well I just got up this morning to snow on the ground. We've had 20+ deg weather the flowers are coming up, the crops are being planted, now we're back to winter again.
 We're leaving a week today. I expect we'll be your way about two weeks after that. Will PM you.

John
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oldflyer2

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #63 on: June 28, 2013, 08:33:02 PM »

You are doing a fine job of this John. I look forward to seeing it in person.

Cheers,

Tom
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Stavros

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #64 on: June 28, 2013, 09:20:29 PM »

If anyone wants to use the same stuff as Oldirpn and lives in the UK  to seal wood then use either Easy light or Top stop it is EXACTLY the same stuff albeit in a tin and is available form Halfords


Dave
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #65 on: September 23, 2013, 02:14:42 PM »

  G’day all. Well the frost is on the pumpkin again, so its time to retire to the basement and pick up where I left off on this build last spring.
 I started work on the engine room ventilators. The kit provides two wooden dowels for the riser pipes, two mushroom head castings and two sets of castings for the handle and gear train for turning the ventilator (in full size). All the castings a pretty clean requiring only minimal clean up.
  The things I didn’t like? The wood dowel is oversize…..and its wood. Work would be required to hide the wood grain. The ventilator openings are solid inside. Normally not a problem, but I felt I had the opportunity to kill two problems in one throw. Get rid of the wood risers and open up the ventilators for a more realistic touch.
 

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #66 on: September 23, 2013, 02:17:44 PM »

   I selected an appropriate diameter brass tube to match the round bottom of the ventilator. This was cut to length and cleaned up. How to match and fasten it to the ventilator casting? I got another short length of brass tube that telescoped into the larger diameter piece. This was to go inside the ventilator for fastening purposes.
   The ventilator was very carefully, and in stages, drilled out to the diameter of the smaller piece of brass tube. This allowed that piece of tube to slide inside the ventilator. At the same time the ventilator was opened all the way through to give a proper open ventilator. Looks much better

John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #67 on: September 23, 2013, 02:18:43 PM »

  The ventilator casting was cleaned up and the short bit of brass tube was epoxied inside the ventilator with a short bit projecting below the ventilator. The larger diameter brass tube was epoxied to the short projecting bit and all was set to one side to set up.
John
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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #68 on: September 23, 2013, 02:20:20 PM »

   When the epoxy had hardened I slipped over the gear train casting and slid it up to the joint between the ventilator casting and the brass tube. It effectively hides the joint. The gear train was held in place with a few dabs of cyano adhesive.
  In order to properly fasten the ventilator riser to the deck, I turned up some ˝” diameter brass rod with a step the inside diameter of the larger brass tube. At the same time I drilled a 1/8” hole in the center of the brass rod to accept a short piece of 1/8” diameter brass rod. The turning was pressed inside the larger brass tube at the base of the ventilator assembly. A 1/8” diameter hole was drilled in the appropriate location in the deck and the whole assembly will, ultimately after painting, be glued to the deck.
 
John
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derekwarner

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #69 on: September 23, 2013, 09:32:52 PM »

You have achieved a great conversion here oldiron........many years ago I attempted a similar quest however soldered the white metal mushroom heads to the brass tube  <*<
Whilst waving a miniature gas torch over the joint to flash or smooth the solder  >:-o the entire circumference of the mushroom head joint disappeared into a glob of dust  O0 ......Derek  :embarrassed:
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Derek Warner

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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #70 on: September 23, 2013, 09:52:25 PM »

You have achieved a great conversion here oldiron........many years ago I attempted a similar quest however soldered the white metal mushroom heads to the brass tube  <*<
Whilst waving a miniature gas torch over the joint to flash or smooth the solder  >:-o the entire circumference of the mushroom head joint disappeared into a glob of dust  O0 ......Derek  :embarrassed:

Derek

 Thanks. Yes I know what you mean about the low evaporative temperature of white metal castings. They go in the blink of an eye. I learned the hard way too. I did, years ago, a Wills kit for a great Western King class steam loco. It seems to me it was made of similar material. I used a low melt point soldering pencil with some degree of success soldering the parts together, but had to be very very careful. I didn't even want to attempt it on this. Epoxy and cyano work quite well for the stress these parts are under.

John
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derekwarner

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #71 on: September 23, 2013, 10:27:53 PM »

A little off track John...in all of the images with the exception of 'ventilators5' the white metal component's appear to have a  copperish tinge......is this a camera filter or have you washed the components with a copper fluid?........from memory,  CuSO4 turned white metal blackish <*< ?..............Derek
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Derek Warner

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oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #72 on: September 23, 2013, 11:33:35 PM »

A little off track John...in all of the images with the exception of 'ventilators5' the white metal component's appear to have a  copperish tinge......is this a camera filter or have you washed the components with a copper fluid?........from memory,  CuSO4 turned white metal blackish <*< ?..............Derek

  The castings are just as they came, however, I took the pictures under a combination of incandesant light and flourescent light. Both can do funny things to picture colour and I didn't bother to correct it before I posted the pics.

John
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irishcarguy

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #73 on: September 24, 2013, 05:48:47 AM »

Its nice to see you back on the build John, I know you were not sitting around though. Since you were here Dave & Jenny have also spent a few weeks here with us. It was nice to sit around with another boat person like yourself, they are scarce animals in this neck of the woods. How is your truck project coming, I won't mention the steam engine.Regards, Mick & Phyllis.
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Mick B.

oldiron

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Re: Joffre build
« Reply #74 on: October 09, 2013, 09:43:54 PM »

 in this installment we put togehter the wheel house. the structure is a basic 6 sided item of printed wood. The sides have to be cut from ply sheet and the windows cut from the sides. That's the tricky bit, cutting out the windows. I used a sharp utility knife (the kind you can break the and of the blade off to get a fresh sharp tip) to do the cutting. Triming and finishing was done with small files.
 A base and a roof are supplied for the wheel house. Cut these out and sand them smooth along the edges. PLace the lower (floor) on the work bench and offer up each  the sides of the wheel house. I started with the stern wall then went to the port and starboard walls, finishing up with the "pointy" front bits of the wheel house.
 I added an internal wall to the wheel house where  supposed the real wheel house had an internal wall. I did this to add extra strength to the unit and help keep everything square during construction.
  All the pieces were glued together with Cyano

John
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