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Author Topic: Fairmount Alpine Tug - Paint and finish  (Read 2384 times)

dmn1

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Fairmount Alpine Tug - Paint and finish
« on: March 13, 2013, 09:54:12 AM »

Morning All, 
Could do with some advice on sealing the wood before undercoating, I'll be using acrylic spray cans to paint the hull and bridge.
Having spent lots of hours building this tug I don't want to mess up with paint flaking off it.
Looks like spending hours to get the colours something near right, the instruction book is of poor quality
but the kit itself is very good, except for prop shafts I've replaced them with quality shafts that are water tight. This is the first wooden hull boat I have built, all my other boats have been ABS or fibreglass.
Any advice would be welcome.
Kind regards
Dave
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david48

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #1 on: March 16, 2013, 03:04:23 PM »

Hi Dave I am at a similar stage as you also building Fairmount  Alpine ,I have rubbed,filled and sanded and put on a coat of sanding sealer on the hull ready to prime with a grey undercoat . I am using enamel paint. I am on with the windows on the bridge .Trying to work out best way to paint  ,fit glazing and glue up . Mayby not much help to you.
David
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dmn1

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #2 on: March 16, 2013, 03:16:38 PM »

Hi David, Interesting subject the windows and trying to fit them, no time to talk now have been dragged out
Will send you message sometime tomorrow .
Regards,
Dave
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tt1

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2013, 04:56:58 PM »

Dave, I sealed my wooden boat prior to priming using Eze Kote from deluxe materials, it's a water based resin and brushes on a dream. I have to thank Barrie (W) for the advice - brilliant stuff. I've used it as a sealer, to apply glass matting, and even as a varnish would you believe - gives a nice satin finish. Can sand and re-coat in 15 minutes and brushes clean up easily with water.
                                     Cheers mate, Tony.
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dmn1

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2013, 02:30:24 PM »

Thanks Tony for the info on sealing my hull  :-))
David, you have the same problem as me with the windows on the bridge, deciding the best way to tackle the job %% 
If the bridge is complete before painting including the windows, we have the problem of masking the glass, but the biggest problem is how do you paint the inside of the bridge plus masking the glass on inside!
I've gone along the way of shaping all the angles to the window frames but not gluing them to the bridge in a view to painting bridge and window frames separately , this way you can paint the inside of the bridge and  inside of frames properly . Then I am going to stick windows on the inside of the frames and hopefully stick it all together to make a bridge, all being well ok2
I'm all ears if someone can suggest a quicker way of doing things!
David I hope this helps you in some way as to what todo, it's not an easy boat to build and like me you have spend loads of hours getting this far.
Kind regards
Dave.

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david48

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2013, 03:10:49 PM »

I think I am with you on the order of work to be done ,the only drawback I can see is that the window plastic is stuck the paint and not the wood. Unless Canopy Glue is OK to stick to the paint there is not much materiel for any glue .What was going to be your choice of colour for the bridge interior.I think I have see somewhere that some of it is a light mauve/purple colour .Iwill have a trail round the wounderweb to see if I can find anything. Just had another thought I have kept all the cutouts from the windows so maybe if the the frame edges are painted and allowed to dry  these cutouts could be used by pushing them back into act as masking just a thought
David
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Tugtower

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2013, 04:13:34 PM »

Sanding sealer is always a tricky one to get right when the finish coat is a paint of some type, some do not like paint at all...


The best way to test a sealed bit of scrap wood with the paint your about to use and see if u get a reaction.


I've always used this direct from http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk


It is one that dose not react with acrylic, sprays, air brushed tinlets, enamels or varnishes.


As to painting a model.. if the glass is already in, then i'm sorry to say you will be masking up a lot of windows, however if the windows are not in yet then its a simple case of masking and spraying/painting the model and the frames then fixing the glass in place at the very end.
Methods of attaching glass to painted/varnished surfaces that work are...


Double sided sticky tape, hot glue gun or the one i use is using an epoxy resin the 5 mins stuff such as evo stick or araldite, and apply around the frames with a PIN (small amounts in small spots will stick a window in easy.)


Do not use SUPERGLUE sadly although superglue works really well as sicking anything to pretty much anything else, it does however 'stain' when it dries with its fumes, they leave a white mark around the surrounding areas and with glazing of any form its a pain as the marks are really noticeable and will ruin the work.
Hope it helps  ;)

Stavros

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2013, 05:22:02 PM »

I Personally dont use sanding sealer at all on woden hulls....WHY paint compatibility problems .......I simply buy a can of Automotive car laquer from Halfords and apply a couple of coats,the first coat will be drawn into the wood and subbsequent ones as well 3 coats is usually enough and then you can safely apply Halfords car paints or enamels to it.
 
 
Dave
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irishcarguy

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2013, 06:02:14 PM »

I too have the kit but have not done much except to fit a rear bow thruster. There is a good lot of photos if you look on the net under Fairmont Summit. I have been considering using the glass from photographic slides for the windows but I keep breaking the glass in all the wrong places. The slides are made by a company named Wess & there are usually some on fleabay. I was trying to design a rig with a diamond disc from Dremmel to etch mark the glass but in the middle of it all got a stroke. I have not given up on the idea, just playing catchup right now, worse it was my left hand that got hit & I am left handed. Mick B.  PS =Look on ACTion's old site or Component shop at the wiring diagrams Dave Milburn did for my Fairmont Alpine...
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Mick B.

Tugtower

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2013, 06:55:26 PM »

I Personally dont use sanding sealer at all on woden hulls....WHY paint compatibility problems .......I simply buy a can of Automotive car laquer from Halfords and apply a couple of coats,the first coat will be drawn into the wood and subbsequent ones as well 3 coats is usually enough and then you can safely apply Halfords car paints or enamels to it.
 
 Dave


I am wondering if you have had issues with the paint cracking using a spray laquer as your wood sealer with older models you may have done? I've heard of this method before but it doesn't have a long term life span as the sealed layer doesn't tend to penetrate the wood deep enough to give you that long term protection from bumps and scrapes that can occur from general use.


 This method of sealing with a finish coat first tends to be used with a wood varnish thinned down (using thinners) and applied to the hull as the thinners help the wood absorb the varnish. (cellulose varnishes will require an enameled finish, and polyurethane thinned varnishes can take either arcylic or enameled paint finishes but always test in scrap first!!!!!)

tt1

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2013, 12:31:36 AM »

Did a lot of bit and bobbing trials with Eze Kote, one light brush coat,  sanded and then primed with Halfords acrylic, Simonize acrylic by spray can. Then tried airbrushing with Vallejo and specialist paints -  brilliant. Takes fillers,  Humbrol, Tamiya ,P38 and Upol - no problem. It's waterproof after one coat so for all subsequent sanding I used wet & dry paper wet.  Cut down on sandpaper usage at least 5 fold. Just my experiences.
                               Regards, tony.
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Stavros

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug
« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2013, 10:37:43 PM »


I am wondering if you have had issues with the paint cracking using a spray laquer as your wood sealer with older models you may have done? I've heard of this method before but it doesn't have a long term life span as the sealed layer doesn't tend to penetrate the wood deep enough to give you that long term protection from bumps and scrapes that can occur from general use.


 This method of sealing with a finish coat first tends to be used with a wood varnish thinned down (using thinners) and applied to the hull as the thinners help the wood absorb the varnish. (cellulose varnishes will require an enameled finish, and polyurethane thinned varnishes can take either arcylic or enameled paint finishes but always test in scrap first!!!!!)

TBH with you I have never had a crazing Problem with Paint crazing using laquer as a sealer.Car laquer in Aerosol form is thinner than sanding sealer and will penitrate further into the wood.It will do the job just as good as sanding selaer.
If you use either or and get scratches in day to day use,tbh it will not matter a hoot what you have used especially if you go thru to either the primer or the wood as primer is porus whether it is household paint Humbrol or car paints.
 
Any wooden hull should be checked over frequently and touched up as necc.....Grp or plastic hulls are not as important so to speak.
 
You have stated that this method of sealing with a finish coat tends to be used with a wood varnish thinned down......The car laquer aerosols contain thinners in them and it is this that draws the product inot the wood..Now if I had said use 2 pack car laquer then that is a differnt kettle of fish as it would simply be to thick to do the job.Car Aerosols containing Laquer are so thin that if you are coating say a plywood deck then by the time you have finished doing to other side the first side is allready dry....exactly the same as sanding sealer.On average you would put on around 4 coats of sealer obviously sanding between coats as it brings up the nap of the wood......Yes I apply on average 3 coats to a hull and obviously more if necc.I have just completed a vintage Models fire boat using this method and after 3 coats I primered the hull....all wood grain dissapeared after 3 coats of primer showing htat the laquer had done it's work sufficiently.
 
I have a sea queen which I rebuilt 15 yrs ago using new wood on the hull skins and was in constant use until 2 yrs ago and is like the day it was frst built with NO signs of any wood problems.....Horses for courses me thinks
 
 
Dave
 
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hama

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug - Paint and finish
« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2013, 10:05:18 AM »

Hey, that Eze koat almost makes me wanna build another wooden boat! No mixing, no smell, cleans with water.
Thanks for the tip, now I'll consider the Fairmount Alpine as a partner for my Smit London.
All the best.
Hama
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tt1

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug - Paint and finish
« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2013, 10:29:15 AM »

Have to thank BarrieW for the tip re Eze Kote, it was he who gave me the heads up.
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dmn1

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Re: Fairmount Alpine Tug - Paint and finish
« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2013, 07:09:51 PM »

Thanks everyone for advice on sealing my wooden boat, I'm going along the lines with info given to me by Stavros, the clear lacquer method.
Kind regards
Dave
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