Topic: Portgarth build (Read 21739 times)

Southern Sailor · « **on:** April 28, 2013, 07:57:51 pm »

Good day clever people. I am going to dare to put some pics of my Portgarth build on the forum in the hope that I get some constructive criticism. Biggest problems to date: The size of the motors necessitating them to be staggered fore and aft; the recess right where the deck supports go - I filled in the recess with body filler; the deck would not go in past the gunwales after I had put in the beams - I cut the deck in two down the centre line after reading Terry Small's article on Avenger in May Model Boats Magazine. I now have to install the deck but things keep on cropping up that need to be put in/done before that happens - most frustrating! Happy sailing.

kiteman1 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 29, 2013, 07:33:24 pm »

Interesting pix and food for thought on your radio installation.
You've got a bit further than me but I'm not going to rush it having learnt from past experience.....

newdabbler · « **Reply #2 on:** April 29, 2013, 11:35:37 pm »

I am watching with great interest as I am trying to build one. This is my 1st boat building project.

Graham

derekwarner · « **Reply #3 on:** April 30, 2013, 12:11:37 am »

Welcome Southern Sailor........
I do like the concept of using circular or oval rings for embedding components with epoxy

you end up with a superior structural joint & far tidier that a dollop of epoxy

oozing over the hull
However are those toggle switches unique?

.....from where I stand they appear to be marked as ON/ON ..... Derek

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #4 on:** April 30, 2013, 12:21:06 pm »

Hi Guys. Thanks for your replies.

Firstly, Derek the toggle switches are actually double throw - centre off. They were too big for the configuration that you see in that pic and were later swopped for micro switches. As it turned out, all the switches were later moved to a position forward of the motors (see the later pic) to enable me to access them from the opening below the deckhouse. So I could have used them, and would have preferred to use them as the micro switches are very small (the motors however draw very low current and the experts say that these switches will be ok).

By the way, the pics lost their captions so must be a bit confusing - anyone know how to make the captions stick??

Secondly, some further comments. 1. The little dams around the prop shafts, rudder posts and prop shaft supports must be fully glue-ed down to the hull. I used superglue and in the event of pouring resin in, they leaked resin all over the place - a messy business. 2. The centre styrene dowels on the beams were intended to form a slight camber in the deck when glueing the deck in, but after I cut the deck in two down the centre line, the dowels would now create a ridge. I have not done it yet but the two dowels on either side of the centre dowels is my revised attempt at creating the camber. I will have to hold the deck down against the centre dowel.

I have a question. The plans show shoulders on either side of the skeg/keel and the stern end. Can anyone tell me what there purpose is?

Happy sailing
Brian

weebaldy · « **Reply #5 on:** April 30, 2013, 07:10:20 pm »

Thank you so much for sharing this build. I am about to start an Eldergarth build soon ( yep it will be my first build too) so your info is really helpful as it shows how you have overcome some of the issues you have encountered

I will reciprocate by sharing my fumbling efforts when I start.

Ray

tugnut · « **Reply #6 on:** April 30, 2013, 09:43:44 pm »

Thats looking good brian,you will have some power with your motors

.

regards John B

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #7 on:** May 03, 2013, 08:17:15 pm »

Hi John B. I am looking forward with interest to seeing just what power I will have. The motors are big but not too sure what their performance will be. They certainly were difficult to fit in, for a novice. I saw a U-Tube clip of a Portgarth model that must have had large brushless motors in it as it looked more like a speedboat than a tug by the way it was careering around the pond. Doubt if I will have that. Cheers and happy sailing. Brian

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #8 on:** May 28, 2013, 07:37:45 pm »

Help please.
WEll, my deck is still not on

! That is due to some time at shows, household chores, and most importantly a change in plan. At a recent show a tug master came over to chat to me and he gave me some great tips on manouvering modern tugs. Now, I am using straight-through propshafts (the Z-drives were not available when I bought the kit) and independant control on each of port and stbd props. I had not planned on using a bow thruster as the full size boat does not have one. But I am now so keen on it that I am putting one in - my motivation being that I have lost some manouverability by not using the Z-drives and so I am justified in putting a bow-thruster in to compensate. A bit of a thin argument I know, but the best I can do.

Problem is I want to use the 12V main battery to power a 7,2V-8,4V ESC for the bow thruster that I have. Anyone got any advice on how to reduce the 12V to between 7,2V and 8,4V? Help needed please! Thanks and happy sailing. Brian

tugnut · « **Reply #9 on:** May 28, 2013, 09:21:34 pm »

Hi Brian cant you use a separate battery for your thruster , i have run my one on 6 v works ok.

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #10 on:** May 29, 2013, 05:35:46 am »

Quote from: tugnut on May 28, 2013, 09:21:34 pm

Hi Brian cant you use a separate battery for your thruster , i have run my one on 6 v works ok.

Also as you won't need to use the Bow thrusters as much as the main drives then you can get away with a smaller sized battery

sailorboy61 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 29, 2013, 10:14:49 am »

Quote from: kiteman1 on April 29, 2013, 07:33:24 pm

You've got a bit further than me but I'm not going to rush it having learnt from past experience.....

Ha, I've been at least two years on mine now and still not this far - I'm too easily distracted!

pima · « **Reply #12 on:** May 29, 2013, 11:04:57 am »

brian,
bowthrusters of 12 volts ain't a problem, just fit an action P 93
multicontroller from components-shop have twotugs fitted with them
excellent gear.
ken.

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #13 on:** May 29, 2013, 10:26:23 pm »

Hi all. Ken I have often wanted for some time to use the AcTion equipment as it looks great and now may be a good time to start. Also I had wanted to get away from using an extra battery, and the P93 would do it. It would also solve the drive of the radar motors (I am planning to use helicopter tail rotor motors or a micro servo motor and gear train for this) and perhaps the nav and steaming lights control as well. I have a local boffin on electronics who hopefully is coming up with a good solution that won't hurt the pocket too much. If he does I will let you know what the solution is. Happy sailing all. Brian

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #14 on:** December 03, 2013, 07:47:21 pm »

Well I have tried twice to post this, but nothing has appeared on the forum yet, so here goes for a third time. Hope I don't eventually end up with 3 versions of the same posting!

The inside of the hull is now painted, and I can find things that fall into the boat! Also the outside of the hull has been painted with red ocre and the upper hull exterior has a few coats of blue paint now. I am a bit nervous as to what I will find when I take off the masking tape - how will I deal with the ridge which will probably be there?

Following a recent article on motor suppression in Model Boats Magazine, I intend connecting the negative terminals of the two 12V gel cells to the port stern tube on which I have left a section unpainted outside the hull. Anyone any comments on this? I am using an Electronize ESC on each motor.

Cheers for now. Brian

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #15 on:** December 03, 2013, 08:16:57 pm »

Quote

The inside of the hull is now painted, and I can find things that fall into the boat! Also the outside of the hull has been painted with red ocre and the upper hull exterior has a few coats of blue paint now. I am a bit nervous as to what I will find when I take off the masking tape - how will I deal with the ridge which will probably be there?

If you take the tape off using a warm air gun you will have time to run your finger gently along the join. This will crush down the slight ridge if you are careful.

Hope this helps.

ken

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #16 on:** December 05, 2013, 02:01:55 pm »

Thanks Ken. I unfortunately had removed the masking tape before I read your reply and the tape was off. However, it came our very nicely, although there is a ridge. I want to spray a coat or coats over the paintwork to finish it off and protect the surface,and the literature says to use a clear satin finish lacquer spray. Unfortunately I have used oil based enamel and so lacquer on top of it will bubble. I am thinking of using a satin finish, oil based clear varnish for this. Can anyone tell me if that will not work, before I ruin what (I think) is quite a nice finish? Thanks and happy sailing. Brian

Stavros · « **Reply #17 on:** December 05, 2013, 05:45:27 pm »

Personally I would leave well alone UNLESS of course you can get a laquer/varnish of the same make as your paint

Dave

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #18 on:** December 06, 2013, 11:00:35 am »

My reaction as well Dave. I was waiting for your advice. I never varnish my boats as the paint seems keep clean with the water anyway.

Cheers

Ken

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #19 on:** February 04, 2014, 06:36:45 am »

Good day all. I am busy with the deck/wheel house , electronic switches for lights and radar scanners, mast etc. Was browsing through my album and thought I would attach a photo of the method I used for marking the holes for the thruster tube. Might be useful to someone. Happy sailing. Brian

deepstar · « **Reply #20 on:** February 15, 2014, 11:21:01 am »

hi
looks a very nice build

like the look of your motors what make are they
cheeky question how much do they cost??

where can i buy them ???
regards deepstar

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #21 on:** February 15, 2014, 12:52:52 pm »

Hi Deepstar. I bought the motors from Mobile Marine Models in 2002. I have only been able to get going with my hobby since retiring 2 years ago hence the delay in this build. The motors are really smooth and low drain with plenty of grunt, but I would stay away from them as they have brushes and terminals housed in attachments on the sides making them very wide. I had to stagger them in the boat to get them to fit. I believe that MMM now have some really nice alternatives. I have at last plucked up the courage to fix in the rear deck. I had some unusual advice form my brother (an excellent modeler); he says to use soluble glue so that if you have forgotten anything you can get the deck off again! I don't always listen to his advice!

Happy sailing. Brian

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #22 on:** March 29, 2015, 03:15:55 pm »

Some more progress. Hopefully this post will go through as I broke the rules with the previous attempt. The skipper has now been appointed and is seen overseeing the build. Cheers for now.

T33cno · « **Reply #23 on:** April 12, 2017, 10:09:05 pm »

Any more on this? Why do all boat builds suddenly die

A very different approach here to my Portgarth build

Southern Sailor · « **Reply #24 on:** April 21, 2017, 09:24:33 am »

Hi T33cno. I moved house last year and only got the workshop up and running this February. This year I gave way to the temptation to build the colossus class aircraft carrier HMS Goliath designed by Glynn Guest. That is nearly done now and so it will then be back to Portgarth. I will post some photos of my Portgarth as it stands now and also the build of Goliath. I would be interested to know in what way my build approach differed from yours. Portgarth was my first almost scratch build and I am sure it could have been done better and easier. Cheers for now and happy sailing. Brian

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Author Topic: Portgarth build (Read 21739 times)

Stavros

T33cno