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[T33cno]

Great to hear from you Brian 


My build thread is here for comparison
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,57583.0.html

[Southern Sailor]

Hi T33cno. I have been looking with much admiration at your build.  You have done a really great job and your photos contain a wealth of tips for the modeler. In your thread, you have a photo of my mast under construction.  Did you find an easier way of doing it?  I still have to think out how to make the mast lights . For the wiring, the plan is to take the positive leads down through the mast and use the mast itself as the negative. Using grain of wheat bulbs at 12 volts. Deck house and control panel lights are LEDs. Cheers for now.  Brian

[T33cno]

Thank you for the compliments
I'm in admiration of your mast that I have yet to begin
All I have is the led kit from MMM and I did imagine using the brass as the ground connection.
Where did you get your ideas for the control room ? Looking good 

[T33cno]

I had rewired/refitted a used Afon Alaw before starting my Portgarth and that is where I initially developed my ideas with paxolin and across three models I've invested around £800 in kit from the component shop largely action electronics
Using Sikafkex adhesive which is flexible comes from experience of fitting solar panels on motorhomes
I pride myself in having good basic craft skills which is most of the battle but the advice given me during construction was invaluable and steered me on the right course
Still lots of knowledge to acquire to get to a finished vessel

[Southern Sailor]

T33cno, I contacted Mike Jeenes on this forum and he was a great help to me, sending a whole lot of photos of the actual Portgarth and also his build which was also very good. I got the ideas for the control room and panels from him.  I am sure he won't mind if I send them on to you, so let me have your email address and I will try to get them in a form suitable for forwarding to you (not very good at the electronic thing!). The lights on the control panels have not come out as well as I had hoped and I might re-do the fiber optics to get them more effective. Cheers. Brian

[T33cno]

Thank you Brian
watersa@ntlworld.com. Very much appreciated


I'm not fussed about my email being public 


Are you SURE

ken

[Southern Sailor]

Message sent. Can you tell me how to view the photos that I have posted on this forum?  Thanks. Brian

[T33cno]

I can see all your photos in this thread
Perhaps you have a poor data connection ?


I've received your email but no pictures have come though
Regards Andy

[T33cno]

I've got the pictures now thanks. Have you any with bigger file sizes? or are they as you were sent originally?

[T33cno]

This is what I'm getting but quite small

[Southern Sailor]

Andy I will see what I can do about the file size.  I must say that Mike's photos were great and gave me lots to work with.  The scale limits one's scope a lot.  Update photos on the Portgarth build should be here in a week or two from now. Cheers. Brian

[T33cno]

Hi Brian. I hope you are well and looking at finishing your build 


Could you offer me advice on what you have done here as it looks like you have draw wires?

[Southern Sailor]

Hi Andy.  I have just spent about an hour replying to you but then attached a photo that was apparently too big, and it all disappeared  .  Is there some way of retrieving that which was lost? Brian

[T33cno]

Email it Brian and I'll post it
watersa@ntlworld.com


If the page is still open the back button may reveal your post to copy and paste

[Martin (Admin)]

Hi Andy.  I have just spent about an hour replying to you but then attached a photo that was apparently too big, and it all disappeared  .  Is there some way of retrieving that which was lost? Brian

.... sorry.... no.

If you had tried 'Alt + cursor left'  or 'Ctrl + z'  straight afterwards there may have been a chance....   
I had a look in the lost post bin, not there either, sorry.
 
 M
 

[T33cno]

Thanks for trying Martin

[Southern Sailor]

Yes, thanks for trying Martin.  I will re-write later tonight. B

[Southern Sailor]

Hi Andy, trying again.  Things are fine here in the deep south, thanks. Just finishing off HMS Goliath which I will post when complete. 


WRT Portgarth mast.  It was a lot of work. All brass. The mast itself will act as the negative with the positive wires from the mast lights going through the arms and down inside the mast itself. The arms are secured to the mast inside sleeves.  The sleeves themselves go through the mast till just outside the other side.  Each sleeve has a hole in the bottom. inside the mast, through which the positive wire goes into the mast. The access from the other side of the mast allowed me to guide the wiring from the arm into the hole and down the mast. Worked OK. The light bases are out of 5mm brass nuts. I still have to design and build the lights.  Any tips here?  I still have to add these to the mast cage without un-soldering the cage itself.  The ladder cage was built up on a wooden broom handle. 


I will post the photo separately.


Any tips on how to keep a soldering iron tip clean?


Cheers and happy building and sailing. Brian

[Southern Sailor]

This is the way I built the ladder cage. B

[T33cno]

That's very inventive 


I've ordered this recently 1:50 scale but looks like it will do the job. I found the white metal MMM ladder to be totally poor and bin fodder
https://www.modelbouwshopnederland.nl/en_GB/a-37885722/ladders/ladder-with-backrest-800-346-1-50/


re soldering. I use this temperature controlled unit up to 480 degrees and lead free solder, not sure if that's relevant as it's my first experience but it seems to be working. The foam pad is wetted before each use and the soldering tip wiped clean frequently.



As for the lights I bought the LED kit with fittings from MMM which seem Ok although a white LED is missing having just checked the contents 

[cos918]

its your call put for soldering brass I fine lead free worse than lead solder .


John

[T33cno]

its your call put for soldering brass I fine lead free worse than lead solder .


John

Thanks John, as I said I have no experience but I will follow your advice in future 
I think temperature is the issue and having 480 degrees at my disposal has made it relatively easy so far but a lot of cleaning excess off

[cos918]

You will get that. Its worse with lead free ,You still get it with lead solder . I find pluming flux very good . When all the job is done wash the job in very hot soapy water and its ready for painting . I too have a available heat iron . I just get lazy and leave 450 even for small jobs


John

[T33cno]

I go the whole hog full power    thanks John

[T33cno]

With Brian's input I think my method will be to fit a short stub of tube just penetrating the mast for each light and insert a draw wire from something like a strand of bicycle gear or brake cable then fit the suitable length of smaller tube to each light. See how it goes quite soon.