Topic: Type XVII U-Boat (Glynn Guest) (Read 9425 times)

Nordsee · « **on:** May 09, 2013, 11:14:53 am »

I have just started to assemble the bits required to build this model, a Free Plan in April 2006 Model Boats. I have most things , I intend to slightly lengthen her also the beam too, about a centimetre or so, as I have Ancient RC to install! Also my fingers do not function in confined spaces any more. The biggest "Not Have" are the Gaiters to seal the pushrods for Rudder and Elevators. I did think I would buy some for model cars, but it seems they are no longer available, well not in the samll size required here. Any ideas people? I did think of cycle valve rubbers. but they have gone as well! Help!! Also has anyone out there actually built one? Any advice and potential pitfalls? James.

U-33 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 09, 2013, 11:22:40 am »

Try here: http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/hdwraccs.htm and scroll down to item numbers GA26/GA27

Rich

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #2 on:** May 11, 2013, 01:16:34 pm »

I have this plan as well.... thinking about building it in the future

Will you be doing a build log?

Nordsee · « **Reply #3 on:** May 11, 2013, 04:14:27 pm »

Quote from: essex2visuvesi on May 11, 2013, 01:16:34 pm

I have this plan as well.... thinking about building it in the future

Will you be doing a build log?

Never thought of doing a Log, my building is so slow!! Might make one, get some feedback as I go.

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #4 on:** May 11, 2013, 06:14:14 pm »

Good Idea

Dont worry about the speed of progress some of my build logs are 3 years old and still unfinished lol

upscope · « **Reply #5 on:** May 12, 2013, 11:12:39 pm »

Anglia Model Centre in Gorelston, Norfolk has some on the shelf.
They are the Graupner ones.
Or try Gliders in Newark, they are the main UK Graupner importer.
Thre are some on EBAY, but mostly in Hong Kong etc

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #6 on:** May 12, 2013, 11:27:07 pm »

https://astecmodels.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=22_34&osCsid=a6268d69d79fecc1ec697d5d4bd85f35

Looking at the magazine these look like to be suitable

Subculture · « **Reply #7 on:** May 13, 2013, 05:41:37 pm »

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33mm-Length-12pcs-Marine-Nitro-RC-Boat-Waterproof-Push-Rod-Rubber-Seals-Bellow-/171040192869?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item27d2ca3965

Sub driver · « **Reply #8 on:** May 14, 2013, 06:02:45 pm »

Hello,
also try marksmodelbits.com waterproof pushrods and motor mounts, no need for bellows as they fail with age...
Regards sub.

Subculture · « **Reply #9 on:** May 14, 2013, 10:51:57 pm »

Quote from: Sub driver on May 14, 2013, 06:02:45 pm

they fail with age...

So do people.

Nordsee · « **Reply #10 on:** September 30, 2013, 10:04:21 am »

Further to my first post I have started the model and have got to the fiddly bits! As almost everything is selfmade rather than bought, that takes longer! I am including some photos. I have built her 1cm wider in the beam and 4 cms longer or my Radio doesn't fit!.The reason she Looks a bit "Tubby" !

Geff · « **Reply #11 on:** November 21, 2013, 09:02:22 pm »

Hi Glynn:

I also bought that edition of the magazine because of the free sub plan. I decided to use willow wood rather than balsa, (now I am at the sanding stage I am rather regretting that decision!) Anyway, I cut out most of the pieces and there they sat for almost 8 years. Then I ran into some members of the SubCommittee and my enthusiasm was "sparked" again. I am putting a brushless motor with an aircraft type ESC in it. The build article in the magazine says that reverse is not very useful.

I have run into 2 road blocks, one is specific to North America. Nobody is making 75MHz surface band radio equipment. All is now 2.4 GHz so the submariners over here are scrambling to get anything that will work. I think that I have managed to get my paws on enough small 75 MHz stuff for the Type XVII and some bigger stuff for the next sub after that.

The other problem, and the one that I am asking for help on is the bow shape of an XVII. The plan shows a fairly rounded bow which I think will not "cut" the water too well.

Does anyone have a picture which shows the front end, pardon the non-nautical language! of a Type XVII?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Geff

Sub driver · « **Reply #12 on:** November 21, 2013, 09:53:11 pm »

Hi. try
the-blueprints.com type xv11 submarine scroll down till you find type xv11 one full side view. hope this helps.
Sub.

Sub driver · « **Reply #13 on:** November 21, 2013, 10:05:17 pm »

Hope the above makes sense.

GG · « **Reply #14 on:** November 21, 2013, 10:45:00 pm »

Geff,
Since the model ought to spend most of the time under the waters surface, sharp bows are not needed to "cut" the water. Think about the rounded bows of modern submarines.
Good luck, Glynn Guest

Geff · « **Reply #15 on:** November 22, 2013, 01:01:23 am »

Glynn,

Thanks for the fast reply. I understood your directions to the The Blueprints.com as I registered as a member several years ago. However what they and Google have on a Type XVII is not really fantastic. I would really like more detailed photos or some section drawings. If you just follow the curves that were on the plan, you end up with a very bulbous bow, which just doesn't look right to me. While I definitely agree that atomic boats spend most of their time under water and so have rounded bows, I always thought that WWII boats spent most of their time on the surface and so had to have more seaworthy and sharper bows.
Please tell me if I am wrong.

Geff

GG · « **Reply #16 on:** November 22, 2013, 10:52:42 am »

Geff,
True, most of the submarines in and before WW2 were designed to perform better on the surface, where they would spend as much time as possible, hence their "boat like" hulls. The Type XVII was an early step on the path towards true submarines and featured a hull more suited to underwater operation.
However, this model was never intended to be an accurate "scale" model. It was an exercise to see just how small a working RC submarine could be. The Type XVII just happens to be a very convenient shape and one I had successfully used before. The models bow area is fuller than scale but I would not have thought that it was exactly "bulbous".
If you want an accurate scale model of a Type XVII they it looks like you will have to design it yourself?
Glynn Guest
P.S. I did not give you directions to The Blueprint.com

Nordsee · « **Reply #17 on:** November 19, 2014, 02:04:54 pm »

Just to let anyone who is interested know, she is finished and after some Dramas with a leaky deck, now cured, she sails very well, dives, tears around under water, if she was an Aeroplane I would call her "twitchy". Speed control is most important for sucessful diving,although getting the original trim, deck just awash, is fiddly. Too much deck showing and she just drives around with the Tower showing and won't dive, get it right and she Slips under at half throttle. Great fun though I would suggest a paddling pool or similar for first dives, if she sinks you can get her out easily! There are some photos of her underwater and a short Video, but my son has them at the Moment...

GG · « **Reply #18 on:** November 19, 2014, 03:02:32 pm »

Glad it worked out for you.
Yes, dynamic diving submarines have to be "flown" underwater rather like RC aircraft. But, once you get the trim and speed right they are quite easy to operate, just requiring the occasional nudge on the transmitter controls.
I keep on getting the urge to build another one, if only to show that you can have fun without spending an "arm and a leg" on a plastic tube full of expensive electronics.
Glynn Guest

Davy1 · « **Reply #19 on:** November 21, 2014, 08:42:00 am »

"without spending an "arm and a leg" on a plastic tube full of expensive electronics."

I can only agree with that.

I thought you might be interested in a revival of a free Model Boat plan - The Charlie Class. Published January 1976!

http://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t1451-cheap-simple-r-c-sub-suitable-for-beginners-a-charlie-class#8943

Still going strong in its second "reincarnation". Many thanks to Model Boats and its plans which can have a long life!

David

Subculture · « **Reply #20 on:** November 22, 2014, 11:20:04 am »

It's only in recent years that multi channel radio control sets and associated electrickery have come down to a price point where you can say they are relatively cheap.

Prior to that, scratchbuilt or kit, it was still an expensive tube or box of electronics you were submerging. Even at today's prices a one-way trip to the bottom of the lake is unlikely to please the owner.

Anyway, I had a look at that beginners article. I think it needs to start off more basic really. It assumes someone knows what an o-ring is, how they're dimensioned, what material they're made of and where you can obtain them from. Unless someone has a technical background, they're unlikely to have a clue. I see my videos were mentioned, but no link provided, so it's unlikely anyone will find them.

11cm PVC pipe is the standard, the 4" pipe mentioned(nearer to 10cm) in the article might be out there, but will be very tricky to track down, and could get some blank looks from a spotty teenager unfamiliar with imperial measurement.

It would also be helpful for beginners to see what tools they require to build a sub from scratch. At an absolute minimum I would say you will need a pencil, marker pens, rule, hacksaw-junior or fullsize, a small selection of files, a range of twist drills, a hand or electric drill, some sort of vice to hold items in and two or three grades of abrasive paper. Later on when fitting out you will probably need to get allen keys, spanners and screwdrivers for bolting in and assembling some components.

Davy1 · « **Reply #21 on:** November 22, 2014, 04:37:07 pm »

Hi Andy. Thanks for looking in on the start of the articles on the Forum. Some useful suggestions there. A lot of the missing information is on the Forum anyway (Suppliers etc.) That's the beauty of a Forum compared with Facebook.

Sorry I wasn't able to be more specific about the location of your useful video. I couldn't for the life of me remember where I had viewed it. Perhaps you could give a link for it on your Dive-In Facebook site? I assume it is in their somewhere?

Thanks again and the next couple of articles are next week.

David F

Subculture · « **Reply #22 on:** November 22, 2014, 08:15:27 pm »

This is part two of the three parts I did. Part one was lot shorter and covered o-rings. Part two covers how to size an o-ring. Not the most intuitive process, but if you can understand it, then it becomes easy to select the right seal, needing just a little basic calculation.

Modellers with some experience of subs will find much of it very basic, but then I've assumed no prior knowledge. The last half of the film shows the machining operation of a basic endcap in real time. Part three shows an alternative method to machining the cap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWcryehE7EU

News:

Author Topic: Type XVII U-Boat (Glynn Guest) (Read 9425 times)