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[Hellmut1956]

I take Toujeo once a day, is a long active insulin, 46 units and Apidra previous to any meal and in between when my sugar level get too high. Every morning I do also take Vizcosa, 1.8 ml, Tablets wise I do take twice a day Metformin 1000 mg and Jadiance every morning. My FreeStyle Libre 2 reader shows that this way I am getting my sugar levels under control. What I also have to work on is further reducing my colesterin from 112 to below 70. The UK health system pays for your medicine? I would be worried if after the Brexit US NHS takes over UK NHS. I have a forum member in a naval modeling site that travels to Canada to have a chance to get his medicine affordable.

[tsenecal]

Helmut1956,

believe me, it gets easier over time... I was originally diagnosed as an insulin dependent type I diabetic in december of 1980.  I have gone through 3 major regimens of insulin, and can only say that you should try not to over compensate and micro manage...  and i agree, checking your glucose levels 4 or more times a day (generally before meals and before you take your toujeo) is the best way to work on this.  stress can be as big an influence in dosage as exercise.  take it easy, relax, and chip away at it a little at a time... you will get it under control soon enough.

as to US health care..   it is what it is...     p.s.   my pharmacist laughed when i started calling the Toujeo "toe-jam"

[Hellmut1956]

I want to share with you my storage for the SMD 1206 resistance series:





It was not cheap, but this way the SMD E12 1206 series of resistances is well organized and stored.

[Hellmut1956]

What I call my old workbench which I did build decades ago proved to have a couple of shortcomings:





In this picture you can see my old workbench on the left. Partly visible is the huge drawer that had the width of the "hangar" below it.





This drawer became a home for chaos as I did place everything in there. Now I decided to split this large drawer into 4 drawers which enables me to defeat the tendency to chaos. Now what I had to learn is that cutting this large drawer in 4 pieces and leave the at their place proved that the platform on which those drawers slip started to bend. So I decided to use 3 40x40x3 mm steel beams so that a new wooden plate placed above them would certainly not suffer from bending anymore.





Sadly I have a problem to plan properly. I thought I head measured the size for the 4 drawers, but as the picture shows the panels were far from being OK. So I did purchase 4 new plates that are now of perfect dimensions. I have yet to replace the old ones shown in the foto! Another project I do pursue trying to get oder in my workshop is to remove the stuff placed on the floor, another place where chaos growths. Besides that my wife protests over years that she cannot access the cabinet, the largest we have in our house. Now one thing I am about to complete is to build a roll-fronted cabinet that is easy to move and fixes another problem I have:







This foto shows that cabinet, still in construction.  On the left is a paper-cutter I have since decade and for which I had no place to put it. Now it is fully accesible! The printer will be moved to the top and on the right of that paper-cutter. Right now there is the tool case for the FEIN MultiMaster I just purchased.


[size=78%]


This oscillating tool with the saw blade allows me to get a "mini circular saw" to cut straight, I will be using this to cut a large wooden plate that will make up the top level of the cabinet and on which the paper-cutter and the printer will be placed.





 
The other project I have started is to fix the problems I was running into with my cabinet for the binders. The weight of the binders was bending the case board. So I did purchase 50x3 mm steel beams which I am placing to fix this problem. The beams are screwed to the vertical on both ends and fixed by wooden screws and 5 mm diameter steel screws after having used those wooden beams to get the bending away. This technic myght have been the better solution for the 4 draers I made for my old workbench.[/size]

[derekwarner]

Helmut......it will be good to see a less cluttered work bench    you certainly have many components and A4 Lever Arch Folders


You will have seen the work room of MarkT, and Andy [Taranis]......they have beautifully    clean areas....


I wish I could put into the old saying clean mind, clean workshop 


Best wishes for the Festive Season to you...... Derek

[nemesis]

Never mind Helmut, there is order in Chaos, nemesis

[Hellmut1956]

Many thx to all. I also do share what having something that you deal with passion helps to keep your day well organized. I had just suffered my 5th stroke, fortunately light, I believe due to the medication I am taking, 15 tablets a day +around 5 to 8 insulin injections. People under similar or even worth health conditions hopefully can see by my example how i.e. our hobby and my studies keep depressions away from me.

[Hellmut1956]

Hi. A lot has happend in my workshop and I would like to share this with you. Sadly my health problems make me slow in advancing projects, but that gives me the time to research in the Internet, learn, study stuff and to get tempted by what I find there. So I took the decision, after studying a couple of YouTube channels and cross-checking Information in the Internet, to purchase the Bosch Professional GTS 10 XC table saw:



The main reason to make my decision to purchase this table saw was the extent of information I found and specially the tutorial how to configure and tune the saw to get exactly the geometry I would like to get when working with it. The second reason was the possibility to expand the table surface of the saw by adding a router table to it using this router. I could purchase them both at strongly reduced prices during the Black Fridays promotion:





Lets start to share my work on this with you.





this was what at one day was delivered to me. It was quite heavy and large to get it down the stairs to the cellar and my workshop.





This was what I saw when I did open the box after finally getting it on the working surface of what I call my old workbench.





What a feeling when I got to see it on my workbench. As you can see on the foto the surface of the table saw consists of quite a number of elements. And this does not yet include what is added to it when I did expand it with the functionality of a router table. Setting up the table saw requires to have all elements of the desk surface to be aligned to be 100% flat. This is achieved by referencing all elements to the one that is fixed, the element where the saw is placed. The alignment horizontally is achieved relating all elements to the saw itself. The groove on that fixed element itself is the other reference used for alignment.





I did also buy an extra circular saw blade applying something I did learn in my investigations. Depending if you cut along the grain of a piece of would, you get long chips and so the blade has to have space between its teeth. You cut across the grain, the chips are short and you benefit from using a saw blade with many teeth.


There is another topic closely related to my tools. It is the amount of dust and chips that generate when using this equipment. My workshop already has a pretty contaminated air i.e. when sanding. I decided that to get to start my table saw I would first have to have a system to absorb the dust and chips. So I decided to build such a system using a cyclone and an industrial vacuum cleaner and purchased this one pretty cheap at eBay with 2100 W:





Next the cyklone:





For those of you that are not familiar with the working principle





For those of you, that like myself in the past, is not familiar of the way a zyklone works. The air loaded with dust and chips is succtioned from the table saw in the graphic. This air enters horizontally in the zyklone which lets the air into it following a spiral. As dust and chips are heavier then the not polluted air they drop down and are collected in the barrel below. They not polluted air then is suctioned from a vertical input at the top of the zyclone  and then this air gets into the vacuum cleaner were the last contend of dust and chips is filtered and collected. The advantage of this system is that the filter in the vacuum cleaner stays clan for a much longer time leading to saving in its operation.





You might understand the surprize I had when the barrel arrived at home. I had not been aware of how big a 210 litre is. The reason I had chooesen this barrel was that smaller ones made from plastic are being compressed due to the lower pressure inside due to the vacuum cleaner.


I want to use my dust and chips absorbing system at all dust and chips generating devices in my workshop. This involves thinking about designing a tubing system that gets close to each machine so that using a flex-tube they can all benefit from it. Additionally I need to be able to connect the normal tube from the vacuum cleaner to clean the floors and surfaces of the workbenches. Also, once the things before do work y will also have to see if I can use it when sanding and other kind of works.





In this foto you can see me starting to extend the table of my circular saw, you see where the disk will be at the white plate you can see next to the longitudinal stop. This is a special plate I did purchase to limit the opening of the table saw around the blade to reduce the amount of dust that might surface while the blade works. You can also see that I did expand the desk to the right to make place for the grey colored plate. This is where an aluminum plate will be placed and from which the router is hanging below. There is a thin aluminum frame that is used when the aluminum plate is inserted makes it possible to align its surface to that of the grey plate. The grey plate itself has to be aligned to the 2 elements of the circular saw table and they to the plate where the white plate is inserted. This element is the one to which all other elements of the table saw have to be aligned to as its position is fix. The longitudinal stop that is at the left end of the table will have its operating position either at a defined distance from the circular saw blade or the milling cutter.


As all that stuff that makes the router table is pretty heavy and could bend the elements of the desk of the circular saw, a video on youtube channel "Lets Bastel" made me aware of that it makes sense to have supports that prevent this to happen.





This channel in Youtube suggests building a cabinet like the one shown in this picture.


Let me continue this report of my work on my workshop on my next contribution.

[Hellmut1956]

So let us continue.



So I started building a cabinet on rolls for the table circular saw. As even using the means to absorb dust and chips, a lot of those generated when working with the machine I opened a hole on the surface of this cabinet with the same geometry as the opening of the saw on its bottom.





This view from the bottom of the saw shows the grid plate which I have to remove.





Here you see the bottom of the saw with the grid plate removed. Here also, but I will do this later, you see on the left side of the opening where I will install the device that will be able to show me on its display the height of the saw blade above the surface of the table.





Here you can see the extension of the lateral stop of my circular table saw.



The wooden plate on the left of the lateral stop is to prevent that the screws that fix the extension bend the lateral stop.  Between the lateral stop and the wooden plate on the right is the tube that I will connect with my dust and chip absorption system. This same wooden plate is where using a groove on it to fix the aluminum plate that has grooves on both sides with those special screws that use those grooves.





On this front view of the lateral stop extension for the router table, you can see that there are 2 aluminum plates with grooves. Those 2 aluminum plates can be moved to adapt the opening to the dust and chips absorbing tube so that its width can be adapted to the milling cutter in use. You also see the blue-colored aluminum plate from which the router is hanging. The metal sheet you see is available of two different sizes to be used to have the opening to the milling cutter as small as possible. To the right of it, one of the holes in the aluminum plate is to insert the crank handle that enables me to change the height of the milling cutter above the table surface. The transparent plastic device mounted in one of the grooves of the aluminum plates is there to protect my fingers from slipping accidentally on the milling cutter and which position is adapted to the height of the workpiece being worked on. As I wrote earlier, the 2 columns are the ones that prevent the desk from being bend by the weight of the router. What today is already done is aligning the surface of all the elements on the router table to be at the same level.





Here a view of the router hanging from the blue-colored aluminum plate.





The green elements you see mounted one on a groove on the surface of the table, one wrongly mounted on the left aluminum plate. It is BOW Feather DUO which I did purchase from a company called Dictum herein Germany. I also offer the possibility to mount both feathers one on top of the other separated to press a high workpiece. The feathers are to press the workpiece against the table surface and against the lateral stop. These are important tools to protect the operated from being hurt. Workpieces can fly and hit the operator and they can be drawn into the opening next to the milling cutter. Also against this, the feathers have to eliminate risks from the operator. I will possibly buy a second set of these feathers.



The next 2 images of devices I did purchase that adds to my safety when operating both the circular table saw and the router table.








I may be too careful buying all this stuff for my machines, but my wife and my kids demanded me to do whatever was possible not to get hurt.


I also did purchase a lot of 3D printed parts to help to align the elements of the desk on the side of the circular saw blade as I have already done on the side of the router table. A good friend of mine also 3D printed parts for the dust and chip absorbing system in my workshop. So I decided that 3D printers are really useful to support in working on advancing my workshop and for 3D printing parts for my sailboat model project.





I did choose the Creality Ender 5 Plus printer because of 2 reasons: One is the cubic form of its frame. That promises pretty good stability. Remember a 3D printer can print layers as thin as 0.1 mm. So the smallest amount of vibration will impact and get visible on the printed object. The other aspect is that it offers the largest printing values between consumer 3D printers. Studying topics around 3D printers I learned that 3D printers undergoing revolutionary technology development, upgrading parts of it become a mainstream issue. But I also did learn that the devices to drive the stepper motors are from the company Trinamic, whose boards I did extensive experimenting to learn as much as possible about stepper motors as I do plan to use stepper motors as winches. 3D printers use a standard called "SilentStepSticks" for which there are sockets on the controller board. I did purchase the BTT-SKR-PRO V1.2 controller board that has 6 sockets for this driver board. They are also used to drive the heater for the platform on which a 3D printer builds the objects and the extruder. An extruder is the element of a 3D printer to heat the filament that is fed to a nozzle which then applies the material.


Having that experience with stepper motors and with Trinamic stepper motor drivers, I did purchase SilentStepSticksTMC5161 that is the most powerful stepper motor driver used in those SilentStepSticks and I did purchase a Meanwell 600 W 48 VDC power supply to be able to have the stepper motors to be driven at highest possible speed so that the 3D printing process can takes days to print a single object. You cannot imagine how I was exposed to personal attacks and offends by planning to do so. I also found out that the NEMA17 stepper motors used in 3D printers have no plate to indicate their brand and its nominal values for current and voltage. I found out further investigating to learn that the stepper motors used in 3D printers are about the weakest and therefore cheapest NEMA17 stepper motors. So later I will replace the stepper motors on my 3D printer with ones that are 3x as long and have about 3x the torque. Those attacks are due to a total lag of in-depth knowledge about stepper motors and about the controllers used in 3D printers. They are just there to know that there are 8-bit and 32-bit controllers and that the latter contains more memory making it possible to add more code to adapt the os called Merlin to upgrades. While their "standard" controllers, again a surprise to me, are the LPC1769, an ARM 3 controller from NXP operating at 120 MHz. The one board, which I did purchase has an ARM 4 controller operating at 168 MHz. In tests done at the YouTube channel called "Kersey Fabrications", it showed that even switching to a more control power demanding color bitmap graphics can have the consequence to be responsible for stepper motor step errors and resulting in printed objects with quality problems. With my experience with ARM controllers from NXP, I would have chosen an ARM4 device with 2 cores. One being an ARM3 and one being an ARM0+. The first to process the language of 3D printers and CNC machines G Code and the ARM0+ to process I/O and the display i.e.! Even more, those controllers cost very little more than single-core controllers but operate with frequencies of up to 220 MHz.
But one error I had I could identify analyzing the attacks where they contained real information. It is only the amount of current flowing through the coils of a stepper motor. But the higher voltage, i.e. 48 VDC compared to the up to 24 VDC you find in 3D printers is that the induced voltage that has inverse polarity compared with the voltage applied did make possible much higher stepping frequencies as the resulting voltage from adding those 2 voltage values takes much higher frequencies to affect the torque available from the stepper motor.

[derekwarner]

Helmut...this bench saw will make considerable wood dust & swarf chips........does it have a vacuum attachment point?......considering the office like environment you will use?


Derek

[Hellmut1956]

Hi Derek. As I wrote in the previous contribution I am working to create and dust and chips absorption system for my workshop. Its core is an industrial vacuum cleaner and a cyclone. I had decided I would start my circular table saw the first time when the absorption system is in place. Both the circular saw and the router will contaminate the air in my workshop. That is even a more serious issue for the 3D printer. I will build a cabin around it and have air previously filtered be carefully blown into that cabin so that there would be a higher air pressure within the cabin to prevent dust and chips to get into the cabin. I am even thinking about using the second connection point of the vacuum cleaner where it blows the air after having it pass the filter into the cabin.

[derekwarner]

Hullo Helmut.....


If you look at the date & time codes of our posts, together with our World distance, you will understand my post was in the land of electrons zooming toward the MBM server when you posted the full vacuum detail 


I would not post such a silly question if I had seen & read your previous thread post


Derek

[Hellmut1956]

No question is silly. The issue with dust and Chips on a circular saw and a router table is a major issue that needs to be taken care of. Thx.

[canabus]

Hi Hellmut


My saw bench has a plastic guard over the saw blade with you can adjust the high and also has a vacuum point to collect the dust from the saw.


Canabus

[Hellmut1956]

The current configuration that Bosch delivers my circular table saw has, different from before no means to absorb dust and chips over the circular saw. I have modified the cover around the disc to have as little as possible means to throw dust and chips by having the cover very close to the disc itself. Bosch has changed that.

[Hellmut1956]

I am currently working on making a dedicated table for the 3D printer. Just this week I decided that it will also be on wheels. One reason is that the wheels on the table for the circular saw do slip over the floor when its breaks are set. So the new set of wheels I hope the table will not slip anymore. So I will use the current set of wheels for the 3D printer table. Sadly the lockdown makes it very difficult to get wooden plates cut exactly in the dimensions I want them. Potential suppliers speak that the dimension would be +-2mm which is unacceptable for me. I will buy one wooden board for the bottom so that the wheels can be attached there. The second wooden board would be attached vertically to the rear side of the table to make the table more rigid. The right side of the table will be screwed to a shelf that I have made more rigid by using a steel board. So that will make it more difficult to move it but will add considerably to the rigidness of the 3D printer table.


I am also planing the cabin I will build around the printer to protect it from dust and chips the table saw and the table router will make. This also opens the possibility to heat the air around the printing volume of the 3D printer as required for filaments of certain materials. But the key is, that once I have transferred the 3D printer to its new table from the working surface of my old workbench finally, after quite a few years, I will work on fixing my milling machine.

[Hellmut1956]

Preparing to build the table for the printer in times of lockdown is a bit challenging.


I have started to use my circular table saw to make the drawers for the cabinet I have built for my circular table saw and router table combination. It has become a very high priority because I had the chance to buy and get the wooden boards I will be using for the cabinet for the 3D printer and the boards to make the drawers for the cabinet of the circular saw. I tell you, those boards were really heavy. I bought the 2 largest boards in the morning hours and succeeded to get them near my house using the bus. I went again to get more boards for the printer cabinet and the drawers and I did underestimate how heavy they were. When I arrived with the bus to the bus stop close to my home I had to call my wife to help me. It took us 2 trips, a lot of sweat, and injuries in the heel area of my left leg. After having done it I had a lot of pain from over-exercising myself, the pain of the muscles, but also the other kind of a pain in both my legs and hip that kept me from recovering for 2 days. But hey, the boards are now at home.


As the cabinet I am about to do requires joining a lot of boards I decided to buy a dowel drilling set so that drilling the holes for the 5 mm wooden dowel at the exact locations hopefully will be easier now.


I hope I am capable to accomplish the task well.

[Hellmut1956]

Well, I had problems trying to drill holes for wooden dowels with a diameter of 5 mm.





I am in the process to build the drawers to be placed in the spaces below the equipment. my concept is to put a wooden plate over which the drawers slip. That means that the holes drilled into those MDF wooden plates need to be in exactly the same position as the holes drilled into the lateral walls for the wooden dowels. One problem is to access the places on the walls, especially the middle wall while starting to install drawers. While I have decided to begin just fixing the wooden plates on its 4 corners, a second problem remains in getting the wooden dowels and the wooden plates on both sides of the center. A single wooden dowel would be used to fix the wooden plates on both sides. But how do I get those wooden plates that just fit in the space on the right side?


Another problem is the depth of the drawers. I did learn from the huge drawer I had above the "hangar" I laced for my hulls below the so-called old workbench. Are the drawers too deep the probability that chaos happens just by putting stuff in them for a while. The top drawer on the left side has to have the full depth as it is there to collect dust and chips falling from the table saw. But the other drawers will just have 50% of the depth so that the option is left for me to add drawers from the other side of the furniture.


The next challenge that I did not succeed properly with, was drilling the holes into steel bars that will stabilize the structure of the 3D printer. Investigating the options in YouTube channels I came across a video of the channel  called Ingos Tipps about a drill bench. Here a picture of what I do mean:





The bench is full of wonderful features that you can see in the video. It is in German, but the images say enough! So I decided to buy the drill shown in the picture. It is a bit newer version but otherwise identical. I do like especially the cross of 2 lasers it has, which show exactly where the center of the hole to be drilled is going to be. The drill is due to arrive here tomorrow.

[Hellmut1956]

The first bench drill I received did not work and today I received the replacement. I have set it up and it works. But I found out that there is a certain amount of vibration when the drill is working. I will buy a plate of rubber as it is used in homes to reduce the noise generated by a washing machine i.e. I will place it below the drill to prevent the vibration to get into the surface of my new workbench that has the milling and lathe machines on it.
Also today I received the news that the radial ventilators I have ordered will be delivered today April 10th.





This is the "small radial ventilator i did purchase with the intention to be used as a part in a system to remove the dust and chips with which the air in my workshop is highly polluted.





This filter category G4 is there to catch the greater párticles in the air to reduce them in the air going through the ventilator and into a cabin for my 3D printer.





These pocket filters are placed behind the first filter shown above and it catches particles down to 1 µm. This way the air will not just be fine for the 3D printer but also for me and my health in my workshop.





Here the large radial ventilator I did purchase and that will arrive tomorrow too. I am planning to use it to decontaminate the air in my workshop placing in front of it the filters like the ones shown above.


From the feedback, I have received from a forum member in another forum, he used a radial ventilator with a throughput of 40 ^3m and he wrote that that was a lot. So luckily I have purchased a radial ventilator with speed control and a small digital display so I can regulate its performance to be OK. This is not the first time I had been shocked as when buying a barrel with 210 liters capacity.


So the work on my workshop is finally advancing faster and the effect gets visible and the results of benefit to me to use them in my workshop.

[Hellmut1956]

Hi everybody! Health is impacting by making me slow, but perseverance your name is Hellmut.


One milestone was getting a new PC:








I still have problems generating pictures and having them stored on my PC. That is why I choose these 2 images. A very good friend of mine with whom I used to fly at least once a quarter with his Bonanza in San Jose, CA, is retired and now lives in Hawaii. As my old PC broke down, I did kill it due to electrostatic discharge, which made me a present in giving me the money to buy a PC so we could now fly together virtually with the Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020. It is amazing that today's technology makes it possible for him to be in Hawaii in front of his PC and me here in Mammendorf, close to Munich. We can each fly a plane and see ourselves on the screen. It looks like soon it will be even possible to fly together sitting both in the same plane. This powerful PC in this full tower housing with a top motherboard and an i7 11700k CPU, an RTX3080 graphic card, and a 2TB m.2 SSD is going to be my last PC. But that same PC is available to design 3D objects for the 3D printer to use in my workshop and in my model sailboat. Being busy on this for 10 years I have the hope to get my workshop ready to continue the work on my sailboat model.


Nut what is sad as I am being retired this year and my wife Anja next year, our 3 kids have moved out of our house we will have to change to 2 small 3 room apartment what means that my workshop might have to be given up! But as I have done in the last 20 years, I continue as if I would have my workshop forever and that my life will also last forever. This attitude has kept me energized and motivated. What I am trying is to see if we can get an apartment with a garage or a nearby place I could move my workshop to.


As of now, I am learning how to change elements of my 3D printer like the nozzle and PTFE tube and, due to the high level of humidity, about 70%, my 3D printer stopped working. So I did start to realize a DIY Drybox like in this video on youtube:


https://youtu.be/jHho6Y9Ly34

I will also have the filaments placed in the dry box shown in the video will have a tube in which the filament runs to the extruder. So I have to learn how to switch filaments fast and easily and the filaments in the tubes will be protected from humidity also outside the dry box. But I have a hen and egg problem. To print the parts needed for the dry box I will have to print them first!

I think I will be able to keep the 3D printer, the PC and the electronics lab as they would fit if I get a room for that. But the 2 workbenches and the equipment that goes with them will need to have a separate omm at least the size of a garage.
.

[derekwarner]

Evening Helmut.....good to hear from you again....

I am a little confused......as I see....

5 x M2 NVMe SSD....then also read

a 2TB m.2 SSD

Either way, even  2TB appears to be an acceptably good volume of storage in the one machine...

My latest laptop has only a 256GB SSD, however I have 1TB Sandisk SSD and a 2TB Toshiba HDD as external drives, all hot wire & connected via USB as storage & backup

I also have a surplus Toshiba 500GB HDD in a plastic case as optional backups via USB

Just wondering what is the basis for 5 x M2 SSD's

regards
Derek

[Hellmut1956]

Sorry, I miss the right character on my keyboard. I have this storage device:


Samsung 980 PRO 2 TB PCIe 4.0 (up to  7.000 MB/s) NVMe M.2 (2280) internal Solid State Drive (SSD) (MZ-V8P2T0BW)

It is placed in the first slot for this m.2 device which thanks to a direct link to the CPU has the 7000 MB/s speed.

[derekwarner]

Understood Helmut    this Samsung 980 PRO 2 TB PCIe 4.0 you mention would appear to be one of the fastest processors available...is it designed primarily for graphic realism speed?

These are the three [plugable] fixed backup and file drives I mentioned, and find them more than capable for home & office backup

The is also an assorted 132GB of USB sticks

A trap I found with the Toshiba 2TB HDD was after about 3 years it failed....stating 'could not read disk - errors occurred'..... ...most of the content was backed up to another Sandisk 1TB SSD, so purchased an external plastic case for $23.00.......removed the HDD & installed it in the case,,,,,,, and formatted the HDD via the PC, then transferred the content of the Sandisk back to the Toshiba

It worked....but nothing is failure proof

I find the concept of SSD warranty [TB's written] fascinating, but scary as the SSD is designed with a finite life....but when? 

https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=fd92ee4d4da93d5fJmltdHM9MTY2MDQ0MTUzOCZpZ3VpZD0wNTZkZDVjMC0xMDQ4LTQ3N2UtYTBiOC1kMDM2ODAyYTc0MGMmaW5zaWQ9NTE2OA&ptn=3&hsh=3&fclid=cc03a20b-1b72-11ed-9a76-c5214898b6aa&u=a1aHR0cHM6Ly9zZW1pY29uZHVjdG9yLnNhbXN1bmcuY29tL2NvbnN1bWVyLXN0b3JhZ2Uvc3VwcG9ydC93YXJyYW50eS8&ntb=1

Saying this, I do not trust nor use any of the free Cloud Storage provided by Microsoft and Norton

If speed were not the criteria, would you suggest SSD or HDD to be more reliable?

Derek   

[Hellmut1956]

Dear Derek. Having worked for nearly 2 decades with leading US Semiconductor companies I know Flash memories have a limit of read cycles before they start their end of life with increasing failures. When I dealt with this topic some 20 years ago SSDs did have a number of spare flash memories and software that would replace defective memories with those extra flash cells. Also, it was said that flash memory cycles would try to limit the number of read/write cycles is would execute by trying to distribute those read/write cycles more evenly over the flash cells to lengthen the time for a failure. So you are right SSD storage and not that factor that limits the length of their life:


Normal HDs are such a mature product that the quality is very good and failures are most likely to be that the magnetic polarity of a memory cell changes. As such errors happen more frequently the os has the means to detect and fix a certain number of memory cells. I did use a RAID 10 HDD storage that used 4 1TB devices and was able to fix if one drive failed. This happened to me twice over a decade.


So the answer to your question as to which memory is more reliable is not so simple to answer. HDD will have errors much more errors compared to an SSD if the SSD has not reached the end of its lifespan, Due to the technical issues with SSDs, it is worth buying an SSD from a supplier with the best quality. So as long as I have not reached the physical limits of its flash memory cells and if it has the provision to replace damaged cells normal backup procedures are ok. If you use HDD in a RAID 10 i.e. as I did you are able to recover completely when one drive fails. Even if it happens twice or more often the question is if it is the same HDD device that is failing, then replace it with a new one, if it happens on different devices you can continue using it and applying the same standard backup proccesses.


And then there is one factor that made me choose the SSD: Its fast!