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[Rob47]

looking for portholes, glazed 5mm to suit Tiger, so far only caldercraft come up, 2 types with flange and without.  Without looks very river launch type and the flanges have holes for rivets.  trouble is looking at Tiger pictures the portholes seem to be very flush.

[raflaunches]

Hi Rob


Like you say, you don't want your cruiser to look like a river launch, the best way (but very long winded way) is to drill out your portholes to the desired diameter. The next phase is the bit that takes the time!
You can buy clear Perspex rod in almost any diameter from online shops like eBay. Cut the rod into short lengths, polish one end and glue into the predrilled holes in your hull. Takes a while but looks very effective, you can even get brass eyebrows which takes just as long but like I say it looks the part.
I have used this method on my cruiser, hopefully this weekend I'll upload some pictures of her for you.
Regards


Nick B

[Rob47]

Funnily enough I was thinking that only difference is that Tigers have that brass rim to them but flush, so I thought brass tube with clear rod then do as you suggested, looks like the way (slowly forward) 

[raflaunches]

Sounds like an ideal solution to ensure a nice clean edge of the hole drilled into the hull, wish I had done that now thinking about it! 

[thunderchild]

Good Day Rob

I've listed my build below (I thought it's easier than re-doing all the pictures, which are to big for this forum), I make my own ports, using brass tubes with the same I.D as the O.D of the scuttles. The ports are marked on the hull and drilled (to the tubes O.D), the brass tubing for the scuttles are cut (approx 5mm long), and glued into the hull with about 1mm sticking out from the hull. When dry the brass tubes were filed flush with the hull. After the hull has been painted, the scuttles will be filled with Testors Clear Parts Cement and Window Maker which makes the glass. 

http://www.taskforce72.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=823

[Rob47]

Hi and thanks for that, great to see other builds, I think that now have enough information to crack on not even going to count how man need making 

[Rob47]

Well thought I would give the clear rod into brass tube a go. Brass tube obtained and today the 5mm clear rod arrived, trouble is it is anything but 5mm goes from 5.45-5.65, called supplier and said not happy, reply is acrylic will not keep tight tolerances, anyway refund on way.  So any suggestions on how to get some sort of clear rod that will be constant in dia.

[Geoff]

I do my portholes in a different way, as in my opinion, most of the commercial items are a little proud. In reality portholes (other than the frame on the inside) are no thicker than the hull plating. In the past I have found trying to drill a series of 5mm holes all in a straight line awkward and especially to get a crisp edge to each as the hull invariable chips.
 
I now use plastic card with holes punched in it which is then glued to the exterior of the hull. The glass is made from old film or similar plastic folder/sheet. The glass is just glued in. I then superglue the rigoles just above to give the required effect.
 
In my view the benefits of this method are:
 
1) If a row of portholes is not perfectly straight its easy and cheap just to cut another piece of plastic card.
 
2) They are not too thick/deep
 
3) Most importantly it avoids drilling any holes in the hull which remains entirely watertight
 
 
Typically portholes are in the out strakes of a ships plating and if needed on the in strakes a thinner card can be used
 
 
Good luck
 
Geoff

[Geoff]

Just as add on you can purchase clear casting resin and it should be possible to pour this into the brass tube. Once set they can be cut off.
 
I have not tried this but did use clear resin for some searchlights which worked well but from memory it thin enough to pour.
 
G