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Author Topic: Working Anchors  (Read 3292 times)

malcf

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Working Anchors
« on: July 03, 2013, 12:42:30 PM »

Has anybody got any suggestions on making working anchors the boat in question is a 1/64th scale lloydsman?.
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2013, 01:25:11 PM »

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nemesis

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2013, 05:13:48 PM »

Hi, And put a weak link in so you do not pull your boat under if you get the anchor snagged. Believe me it has happened.
     Nemesis
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Umi_Ryuzuki

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malcf

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2013, 07:10:22 PM »

 :-)) Hi and thankyou for the replies it definately looks feasable and i have quite a few old servo,s to go at <*< .
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thunderchild

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2013, 09:07:06 AM »

Good Day


Have a look at this website http://en.ankerwinde.eu/


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Richard

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2013, 10:23:30 AM »

If have little space to fit your winch try these

http://goo.gl/rW4hq
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just tugging along

malcf

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2013, 12:42:23 PM »

Is it normal for a boat/ship to utilise both anchors at the same time,i dont mean dropping them  together but using both to hold the boat?.
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Jerry C

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2013, 12:57:50 PM »

Yes, often. Mediterranean moor, two anchors forward and lines to the dock. In a river to restrict swing, one anchor upstream and one downstream. In a roads in strong wind, one out on each bow to stop shearing.
Jerry.

malcf

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2013, 09:09:04 PM »

Finaly got my anchors working using a modified servo and two sewing machine spools, i tried scale chain but it was open link type and was to weak <:( for the job on the winch i made drums out of acetal/delrin drilled for a spring out of a ball point pen and a small ball bearing to locate on the holes in the sides of the spools,the spring tension can be adjusted using a grub screw,i have them set so under slight tension they ratchet i ended up using brass decorative chain from B&Q in the end not scale but it will suffice for now :embarrassed: , they drop to about 800mm the only trouble now is the anchors dont always seat the same way when hauled in >>:-( , they are made of white metal the type with the pivoting claw i may remake them in brass and weight  the opposite end to the claw to make sure they retract  properly :-)) .
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Umi_Ryuzuki

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2013, 01:28:21 AM »

I like the ball bearing and spring to the spool, clutch.

 8)

david48

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2013, 09:29:46 AM »

Good morning all
Just a thought ,if I have picked this up right . The chain is not stored on a drum on ships it drops into a chain locker and is run through a gypsy the chain and the gypsy have to be the same pitch just a chain and sprocket arrangement.Thats is why a chain link on bigger link chain has a bar across ,this is to stop at chain tangling up when it drops into locker ,then when the brake/clutch is released the anchor drops cleanly.
 If this arrangement could be sorted this would get over the problem of the chain on the drum fouling .
  This what it does on my mates boat.
David
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malcf

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2013, 12:45:14 PM »

Good morning all
Just a thought ,if I have picked this up right . The chain is not stored on a drum on ships it drops into a chain locker and is run through a gypsy the chain and the gypsy have to be the same pitch just a chain and sprocket arrangement.Thats is why a chain link on bigger link chain has a bar across ,this is to stop at chain tangling up when it drops into locker ,then when the brake/clutch is released the anchor drops cleanly.
 If this arrangement could be sorted this would get over the problem of the chain on the drum fouling .
  This what it does on my mates boat.
David
Hi David it is not the chain that is fouling it is the orientation of the anchor as it pulls up to the hull one anchor is ok the other one sometimes seats with the claw hanging down i think it is to do with the balance point the claws are heavier than the opposite end i think will have to add some solder and see if it makes a difference.
Iknow it shouldnt be on a drum but it was simpler to do they just wont drop by gravity. ;)
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catengineman

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2013, 12:56:11 PM »

Have you got a picture or the anchor in its "wrong position"
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malcf

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2013, 06:27:17 PM »

Here you go  :-))
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Jerry C

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2013, 06:33:00 PM »

Do you have a swivel in the chain at or close to the anchor shank. If that doesn't help then you will need a tripping palm attached to the shell to force the anchor into position. The shank must also move in the flukes but no more than 40 each way.
Jerry.

catengineman

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2013, 07:01:09 PM »

What angle is your hawse pipe?
if it is more upright and almost vertical  then the flukes will be more vertical and as your anchor stows it will come home correctly every time
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malcf

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #17 on: September 16, 2013, 08:51:09 PM »

I would say they are about 25- 30 degrees from vertical then looping in a downwards arc to the winch, they are formed out of 3/8" od copper tube.
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catengineman

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #18 on: September 16, 2013, 08:56:27 PM »

Is it possible to get your tubes more vertical if not fully vertical but leading into the center of the vessel
that way your anchors will be hanging vertical until the last moment when the flukes come into contact with the hull (or anchor box)
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malcf

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #19 on: September 16, 2013, 09:04:04 PM »

The shank moves in the flukes about 120 deg each way at the moment it only stops when the other end to the flukes comes into contact with the shank,they come as white metal pieces that have to be soldered together consisting of a pivot pin with a slot in both ends which locates in a cutout in the flukes, this pin is then soldered making sure the shank is in between the 2 fluke assemblies.
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malcf

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Re: Working Anchors
« Reply #20 on: September 16, 2013, 09:11:03 PM »

Is it possible to get your tubes more vertical if not fully vertical but leading into the center of the vessel
that way your anchors will be hanging vertical until the last moment when the flukes come into contact with the hull (or anchor box)
Hi Catengineman they do lead to the center they are about 60 mm apart at the winch if you look at the photos of the winch they line up with the 2 holes in the white plastic plate in the pic the winch is upside down the other 2 slots are for fine adjustment when it is screwed to the underneath of the winch deck.
Ithink my problem lies with the amount of movement between the shank and flukes i will try reducing the amount of pivot.
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