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Author Topic: W P Wood hull  (Read 6507 times)

g4yvm

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W P Wood hull
« on: August 03, 2013, 01:42:20 PM »

I have a hull made in glass fibre by W P Wood of Aberdeen in 1993.  It has never been built so is probably as it popped out of the mould.  Its a 1m length jobby and I bought plans of another 1m with the idea of finishing it, however, this hull weighs a ton and times have moved on.  Im questioning now whether its worth spending the money on it at all: I'd only end up with a very heavy model by todays standards wouldnt i?  And for the money it'll cost I could buy a very nice modern vessel!


Am I wrong on this?  I mean, the WPW hull looks nice but not great.


David
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gingyer

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #1 on: August 03, 2013, 02:34:03 PM »

The only person who could answer this would be you...
It is you who will spend the money and you who will have to  Carry it about.

I assume it is a yacht hull, this will need a good bit of ballast in
Them anyway so may not require as much as a modern hull

Why not post a picture of it and we can see and perhaps others could advise better
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g4yvm

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #2 on: August 03, 2013, 02:51:58 PM »

Thanks for the reply.  Yes you are right, it's a yacht hill. 1m long and old style fin keel. I.e. almost long keel but not quite. 

Ill try to post a pic






As you can see she has considerable curve to her topsides ( must be a name for that!) so she;'s not got a flat deck.  Whether she was ever meant to be flattened I cant say, I imagine not though.  So she'd make a pretty boat but whether a nice boat to sail... {:-{


As you say, its my choice but I dont want to go off and make a dog!


David
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hmsantrim

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #3 on: August 03, 2013, 06:46:36 PM »

Hi David.
Reading your post and trying to figure out what you are asking here. Have you aquired a 1m yacht hull unseen and found its a design used from 40`s-70`s and does not match  the plans you have bought and your epectations.
To days 1m hull will have a narrow beam and a slot in the keel for a long fin and bulb attachment. The hull you have may be 1m long but its a displacement yacht hull with hollow moulded keel for lead shot ballast to be poured into. Its heavy because its laid up with several layers of gel coat.
As for the curved topsides its got the deck camber moulded into the hull for the water  run off.  I am getting the feeling there are some more modern yachts where you sail and a bit of friendly racing goes on and you don`t want to be last all the time.
Frank.
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Netleyned

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2013, 06:59:57 PM »

David, is it a metre long or 36inches?
It looks like a 36R type hull.
Long fin keels were in fashion for IOM yachts by
then.
If you want to enjoy sailing as a chill out afternoon
then it could be a lovely yacht.
If you are looking at racing (even friendly) you
might end up being the tail gunner.
Keep looking on line as there will be someone out
there with one.

Ned
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slug

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #5 on: August 03, 2013, 07:50:43 PM »

if it a 36r it should fit in a box 36x11x9"and weigh no more than 12lbs ,I think this is correct....tony
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g4yvm

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #6 on: August 03, 2013, 08:09:03 PM »

Sorry guys, this is turning a mole hill into K2!


I bought this hull years ago with a view to building it.  No plans or details.  It measures about 37 1/2 inches stem to transom at deck level.


It came with no plans so I went to one of the magazine houses and bought a set of similar plans for a 1m yacht to get a feel for the standing rigging, masts etc.  Then, as you do, put it away and forgot it.


Now I have pulled it out and thought about finishing it but times change so I just thought I'd ask in case someone said "blimey, not one of them ever ended up sailing straight!" or some such.  Its made of thick FG (as Frank says) and is a displacement boat rather than planing.  My real concern was the cost of doing it: as I say, times change and for the cost of fitting this out it might now be possible to buy a full kit or RTS boat!  I have no great attachment to this hull, other than hating to see things go to waste, but if time has left her behind, so be it!


Im absolutely not into racing, just pottering around the lake whilst my kids sail their full size (ha ha) Toppers!  My only other boat is an Odyssey which my son has stolen so Ive lost that now, and I do enjoy pottering with a yacht.  I fancy something a tad more responsive than the Odyssey though thats the trouble!  Actually, thats not the trouble, the trouble is a workshop full of other projects and shallow pockets!


Im sorry for the confusion my seemingly simple question has caused!




Regards


David



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slug

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #7 on: August 03, 2013, 08:30:33 PM »

sorry about the confusion,build and enjoy nice looking hull, you could surprise yourself .you maybe able to pick up some sails on f/bay,alloy tube b&q   tony
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Grumpy Dave

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #8 on: August 03, 2013, 10:16:01 PM »

Build and enjoy. Possibly with a planked deck, deckhouse and crew.
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triumphjon

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #9 on: August 04, 2013, 08:08:29 AM »

think id tend to agree , if your not into racing , then build it in a scale style and ENJOY IT  , masts can be made as somebody pointed out from tubing from b&q  , graupner market a small kit that will make a very sensible gooseneck ( under a tenner ) they even have a long adjustable kicker made in anodised alloy ( its around twenty of your hard earned though ) , sails can be single flat panel and made from ripstop kite material and still work well , bought sails tend to work out at around 50 - 70 a suit ! lead shot can be bought at a local dive shop in kilo bags .
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g4yvm

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #10 on: August 04, 2013, 08:55:31 AM »

Go on then, I'm sold! 

I hope it makes faster progress than the type vii I'm building

Ill keep you posted

D
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roycv

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #11 on: August 04, 2013, 09:12:02 AM »

Hi G4... Can you weigh the hull and tell us how heavy it is I prefer pounds but can convert!  I agree with Netly it looks like a 36R with that under water shape. 
If the glass fibre is that thick it may not be possible to get much lead shot inside the keel.  So that you would have to estimate the amount of keel to cur away and create a lead keel to bolt on.
A 36R comes out at about 11 pounds (5 kgrms).
But nothing is impossible, if you float a little lower in the water only you will know about it!
I currently have an almost identical shape hull made of wood with the lead already cast and fitted, about 60 years old, it is on my soon to do list!
regards Roy
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g4yvm

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #12 on: August 04, 2013, 09:28:29 AM »

Roy,
The hull weighs a little over three pounds and the open fin currently measures 8 inches long, 1/2 wide and 3" deep.   How does 3lb sound for a bare hull?  Obviously its about 2 1/2 lb heavier than a modern one, but does it sound okay?


D
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Netleyned

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #13 on: August 04, 2013, 09:45:50 AM »

If those measurements are the inside of the fin,you have about 12 cubic inches that can be filled with lead.
Thats about 4pounds 12 ozs of lead or possibly 3 pounds of lead shot.


Ned
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g4yvm

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #14 on: August 04, 2013, 09:56:13 AM »

I doubt that, the fin moulding narrows towards the base.  I think we might cut your volume calcs in half to be safe.  Will that work I wonder?  I have no real idea about ballasting model yachts (Im much more airy nautical than hairy nautical).


I think the only thing to do is constrain the budget and just do it.   Whats the worst that could happen?  glug glug glug %)


Ive emailed PJ Sails to ask his advice re masts as he sells groovy masts etc and he's not TOO far from me. (Salisbury).  On the other hand straight ally tube is a fraction of the cost!




D
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roycv

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #15 on: August 04, 2013, 11:51:14 AM »

Hi it is a bit heavy and has been said about filling the fin with lead it may not be as stable as a 36R.  But if your boat sails 1/4 of an inch lower in the water that is 2 pounds in displacement, which no one will notice.
1 cubic inch of lead weighs 6.56 ounces.  Or a pound of lead occupies 2.44 cubic inches.

Can you slide cut up pieces of lead flashing down the fin?  This would help with the lead density problem re lead shot?
I would try for over 60% of the all up weight of the boat to be in the lead in the keel.

You can hammer lead into shape very easily, just a thought but can you saw the bottom inch off the keel and "screw" in some solid lead.  If you have to drill a hole in lead use parafin as a lubricant.
regards Roy
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g4yvm

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #16 on: August 04, 2013, 12:46:51 PM »

Thanks Roy.


I wonder what would happen if I poured molten lead into the fin?  Burn right through I should think.  I'll have a ponder on the keel weight thing though. 


D
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Grumpy Dave

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #17 on: August 04, 2013, 02:56:06 PM »

If the inside is smooth enough, make a plaster of Paris plug . Then a sand box and cast it in lead. If you do pour molten lead into your model please remember to video it so you get 250 from 'You've been framed'  to buy a new model and we all get to laugh.
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tobyker

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #18 on: August 04, 2013, 11:18:47 PM »

I hate to nit pick, but surely the "curve" of the hull sides  referred to is the sheer - fore and aft. The deck camber runs from side to side across the beam. 
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Netleyned

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #19 on: August 05, 2013, 08:34:20 AM »

I hate to nit pick, but surely the "curve" of the hull sides  referred to is the sheer - fore and aft. The deck camber runs from side to side across the beam.


Exactly  :-)) :-)) :-))


Ned
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roycv

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #20 on: August 05, 2013, 11:05:26 AM »

Hi g4.. seeing as you are thinking of masts, I have used both groovey and straight ally.  If you use ally then you have to secure the main sail to the mast at intervals.  You can use wire loops, or a jack line attached to the aft of the mast.
 
A simple way is to use short very small wood counter sunk screws screwed into holes drilled in mast every 6 inches or so.  The head should be about  1/8th. away from the mast and line all the screw driver slots in line with the mast and solder a piano wire into the screw heads all the way up the mast.

I have also done a variation on this where I solder 1mm tubing about 1cm long into the screw head and when these are in place in the mast run a line in (piano wire or fishing line) through the tubing and secure tightly.

You can then use dress fastener hooks sewn into the sail to attach the sail to the jack line.

If you want to know a simple cheap goose neck let me know.
regards Roy
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g4yvm

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #21 on: August 05, 2013, 04:58:21 PM »

Yes please Roy

D
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roycv

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #22 on: August 05, 2013, 11:45:48 PM »

hi g4..  I use aircraft aileron hinges, just one.  The size I use are about 1/8th. inch diameter.  They are a bit like plastic round section wood dowels but there is a hinge joining the two parts together, each part nearly 2 inches long. 

I glue one end into the main boom so that the hinged part hangs down.  I then cut a piece of close fitting tube glued / fitted vertical to the mast for this to drop into.  The main boom can then rise or fall on the hinge and turn right / left pivoting in the tube attached to the mast.
It hardly shows in use and I have this system in 2 boats.
regards Roy
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tiaki

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #23 on: August 06, 2013, 03:47:14 AM »

Hi,
It is possible to pour lead into the keel. To do so mark the desired waterline on the bow and stern, Check that there is no pin holes that water can get into the hull, if it does the lead will explode into your face. If there are no leaks then put the hull into a bath/container of water which takes the heat out of the lead before it can burn the F/glass. Then slowly pour the lead into the keel until you reach the water line. If it looks like the hull is sitting up at one end stop the pour and fit an internal dam into the keel to position the yacht hull at the correct waterline and continue the pour. This is a common way to pour lead into an EC12 yacht hull.
Cheers
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g4yvm

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Re: W P Wood hull
« Reply #24 on: August 06, 2013, 08:00:29 AM »

Thanks both.
I know the hinges well.
Re the lead: thank you for that.


D
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