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Author Topic: 'flatting' a new three colour paint finish?  (Read 994 times)

RMF

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'flatting' a new three colour paint finish?
« on: November 12, 2013, 10:00:08 PM »

OK, so I've got a 'naval camouflage' type finish to the hull of my current project, the hull was first painted in the base grey colour, then masked off and painted utilising a further two colours - French Blue and a Dark Blue (in Google images type 'whale wars Steve Irwin' and you'll get the idea).

Where the differing colours meet, there is a raised line to the touch where the colours meet due to my masking, overlap of the paint and general amateurishness.

The paint was mixed by my local automotive paint factors and put in rattle cans. It's a cellulose type - couldn't get exactly what I wanted via the usual Halfords selection. The finish is top quality and colour match is spot on.


I've seen descriptions of cars being wet sanded. I'm not sure if on the car this is to flat the clear coat or paint underneath?.

My questions, if someone can help are;

1) How long should I leave the paint to fully harden before I even think of attempting anything - 1 week, 2 weeks, longer??

2) Can I say wet sand the whole hull (direct on the new paint not a clear coat) with say 3000 - 4000 grit wet and dry, used wet or should I do something different?.

3) How do I prevent the 'pigment' (sorry don't know the correct term) from the darker colour, contaminating the lighter blue and grey as its wet sanded or am I worrying too much?.

4) Once flatted back, could I finish with a coat of the Ezykote type water based resin or would using a few coats of a proper clearcoat be the way to go?.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Richard
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knoby

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Re: 'flatting' a new three colour paint finish?
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2013, 11:16:12 PM »


Hi Richard,


1.  How long to leave depends on the ambient temprature, but 48 hours at room temp should be ample.


2. It is ok to wet flat the new paint, 3000 grit is to fine though, I would use 1200 grit. Use plenty of water, a dash of washing up liquid will break the surface tension & help paper glide over the paint. Use a sensible size piece of paper so you can get a good hold of it. A good tip is to rub the paper together a little before you start, this just takes the edge off the grit & stops any course scratches.


3. The pigment shouldnt stain the lighter colours, however reds do have a habit of staining whites, so dont let the dirty water sit on the lighter colours to long. Keep a wet clean cloth & wipe off excess water as you go.


4. Personally I would use clear coat. Most models look better with a satin or matt finish & this wont be possible with resin. Also, paint a test piece first to ensure the clear coat will not react with the colour, giving the test piece the same amount of time to dry as the model has had.I would paint something with at least 2 of the colours you used so as there is a masked line between them. The most likely place for any reaction is on this masked line.


Glenn
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The path of excess leads to the tower of knowledge

Stavros

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Re: 'flatting' a new three colour paint finish?
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2013, 11:23:10 PM »

A lot depends really how hard the paint is...when it was sprayed loads of variables....best way to determine if paint is soft is to simply do a small patch and see if the pain is picking up on the wet/dry.
 
Top tip
 
Read MY tutorial in the Paint section....tells you how to avoid paint ridges as well
 
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,39337.0.html

 
Dave
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RMF

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Re: 'flatting' a new three colour paint finish?
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2013, 03:28:57 PM »


Glenn / Dave,

Many thanks for the advice.


Very informative and given me some confidence to get to the final stages.


Regards


Richard
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