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[george]

 Hello Again

 I need the members help. I have an OLD hull that has been sitting in my to do pile. I bought it second hand and was told that it is a Darnell X Craft. IT`s measurements are: L - 40", W - 4 1/2". Can anyone confirm who the maker is and what scale is it?

 Also from the pictures I have included, can anyone tell me is this ALL the appendages that come with this kit? OR what is missing?

 I have been told that the Aft planes need to be reworked to look correct, can you explain and show pictures?

 I want to make this one a Static diver with my own home built WTC because I can`t afford a built one. I want to build one with the air bladder system that draws air from the electronics section to inflate the bag in the ballast section then draw it back into the electronics section.

 Can someone tell me the size of the WTC and it`s sections? Any pictures for the hull internal setup as well as the WTC would also help me.

 Have a look at my pictures and let me know.

 Thanks for your help.

 George

[Sub driver]

Looks like a Darnell hull, now models by design.
They should have some info on the model maybe even a plan.

Regards

[U-33]

That's a MBD moulding, Darnell omes were a greeny colour. Thevinstruction plan isn't available, they lost it..I do have a photocopy of the original Darnell drawing, if you'd like, I'll email you a copy.

All that's missing from the kit in the pics are the hatches, Andy at MBD will make you pair if you ask nicely.

[george]

  Hello Again U-33

 Thanks again for your help. Also YES PLEASE and Thank You, I would appreciate it if you could email me a copy of the X Craft plans.

 Do you know of anyone who has made this into a static R.C submarine? I would really like to get the WTC specs and internal hull and WTC layout pictures.

 I have already emailed MDB about my other Darnell Type XXIII and I am waiting for their reply. I don`t want to bother them too much.

 Please PM with the plans when you can.

 Thanks Again

 George

[hollowhornbear]

have a look here http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthread.php?715-X-Craft-RC-options

[Subculture]

If you want a spot-on accurate x-craft, this kit isn't the best place to start, because almost nothing tally's with a good plan of this type of craft.

The Darnell boats date back to pre-internet age,when information was much more difficult to come by, and consequently many models were built with a big dollop of artistic license.

The enduring appeal of the Darnell range, against what could be considered more accurate models was that it offered an entry point into the hobby at a competitive price point, however the models did require quite a bit of work on behalf of the builder, many items needing to be scratchbuilt to complete the model.

Most model submarine kits these days come with a high level of prefabrication, which makes life easier for the builder, but up goes the price accordingly.

However the Darnell does build into a very nice and capable model submarine which works well either as a dynamic or static diver. The untrained eye will not spot the inconsistencies with the original boats and this model, and a competent modeller can go a long way to either rectifying or disguising some of the less accurate areas if they choose to.

Regarding cylinder and ballast tank sizing, I don't have that boat so can't give you precise dimensions. The cylinder should be large enough to support it's own weight, plus all the equipment you put into it, plus the extra density of a GRP hull, which will always be heavier than water by about 20-50% depending on the lay-up.

Regarding ballast tank size, I would take a guess at somewhere about 300ml, bear in mind that there will be some variation amongst even identical boats as these are hand laid GRP mouldings.

The best way is to build your boat and cylinder, put it in the bath/test tank, ballast the boat to the desired submerged waterline, then use blocks of polystyrene foam to bring the boat the correct surfaced waterline. Add the volume of the foam blocks together and you have the required volume of your tank.

This is very much easier and more accurate than calculation. You'll usually have to make some type of cradle to support and locate the foam blocks, this should be made from something neutrally buoyant, so it doesn't skew your results. Plasticard (styrene sheet) tends to be about the same gravity as water, so that would be a good choice.

[george]

 Hello again

 First Thank You Subculture for your reply. Again you have helped me with information. Your how to videos for WTC End Caps and O-ring sizing, very helpful.

 As for my X-craft, well I play the hand that I was dealt. I bought this some time ago, ignorance is my excuse. I have managed to find some more build pictures of it with sections of it corrected to look more realistic. Since I have NOT seen one in Canada or the U.S, except for Mr. Mike Caswell, I think I won`t have people pointing out it`s flaws.

 If it looks good to me and floats and dives and comes back up on command, I will be Happy.

 If anyone has one like mine running, would you share your WTC specs with me, it helps me from a beginner point of view.

 Thanks Again for ALL the Help.

 George
 

[Subculture]

I think if you are careful in your design, you will be able to make one cylinder that services both the x-craft and the XXIII, as despite the different scales, they're roughly the same size and are likely to have similar ballast tank size requirements.

I have seen pictures of original Darnell plans kicking about, however I think they will be of minimal use to you, as they are based upon thirty year old electronics and the design concentrates on the watertight box that used to be supplied with these hulls. The boats were also originally set-up as dynamic divers, so no ballast system details were given.

[george]

  Hi Subculture

 Thanks again for your help. I managed to find the WTC specs for my X-craft and the same WTC should be ok for the Type XXIII BUT it would NOT let me have room for future torpedoes, which I want. So at least I will build the WTC for the X-craft.

 When I first became hooked on r.c submarines, I thought the WTC idea was really reat, you could take it from one hull to another of the same size. Over time, I think, it is easier to setup one WTC per hull and leave it there. You can find LOTS of the internals fairly cheap now so, for me with a lathe, I can make my own WTC for each hull and leave it there, no switching around needed. Less adjusting etc.

 Thanks Again for ALL the Help.

 George