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Author Topic: LOS ANGELES build logs  (Read 30237 times)

profesorul

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LOS ANGELES build logs
« on: February 06, 2014, 09:47:51 AM »

HELLO ALL ,  :-)
 
Be ADVICE : Is gonna be a very long thread so PLEASE have patience !

I know it's been don but that's way I gut courage and start these project , knowing I can get some help/tips/trick in order do not repeat same mistakes .What do You think ?.  ;)
 
Earlier this week I took courage and I start working on these project .
That is a LOS ANGELES submarine bought it from someone on the forum .
Be ADVICE : Is gonna be a very long thread so PLEASE have patience !

Earlier this week I took courage and I start working on these project .
That is a LOS ANGELES submarine bought it from someone on the forum .
- I started with rudders depth as required for the large volume of Sisyphus work ....

- after many, many hours of sanding an file I managed to do what you can see in the pictures...
HOW TO FIX :
1) file until get same length?
2) fill until get same length ?



- then continued with bow rudders ....NO problems here ,

- with tower is another story and I have some questions about the place to put axis for Bow Rudders ....( see pictures )


- I do not know what those two parts are and which should be put it ( see pictures )


and the last question from these series :
1) what are those holes and witch should be drilled ( I think some of them should be don do the captive air !)




OK for now,

THANK YOU

MARIUS
- I started with rudders depth as required for the large volume of Sisyphus work ....

- after many, many hours of sanding an file I managed to do what you can see in the pictures...
HOW TO FIX :
1) file until get same length?
2) fill until get same length ?



- then continued with bow rudders ....NO problems here ,

- with tower is another story and I have some questions about the place to put axis for Bow Rudders ....( see pictures )


- I do not know what those two parts are and which should be put it ( see pictures )


and the last question from these series :
1) what are those holes and witch should be drilled ( I think some of them should be don do the captive air !)




OK for now,

THANK YOU

MARIUS
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2014, 09:25:24 AM »

   :-)
 
For the moment all I have is these :







- any suggestion about Reliable Speed Controller ......Fail Safe devices and what else should be ?
- the RC is FUTABA 6EXP - 6 channels (4 + 2 ) ,40MHz .
I know is an very old model but that's gonna be do the small budget
 
Cam on don't be shy !  ;)
 
MARIUS
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Mankster

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2014, 09:35:11 AM »

Any 40mhz rado set will see you through. Well worth getting a computerised set for ease of setting up and adjustments at the pond. I would lean to a synthesised set but I spree irate these cost a little more - but keep an eye out on eBay, both Graupner and Multiplex did cheap Synt sets.


I would go with a pitch controller from MicroGyros http://www.microgyros.com/index.html and their speed controller are great too.

profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2014, 10:28:17 AM »

Any 40mhz rado set will see you through. Well worth getting a computerised set for ease of setting up and adjustments at the pond. I would lean to a synthesised set but I spree irate these cost a little more - but keep an eye out on eBay, both Graupner and Multiplex did cheap Synt sets.


I would go with a pitch controller from MicroGyros http://www.microgyros.com/index.html and their speed controller are great too.

THANK YOU @Mankster
1) I want to see it finished first and with time I'm thinking to buy a new RC station ,
2) what actualy do a pitch controller on a sub ?
 
MARIUS
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2014, 11:37:47 AM »


 Hi Marius!

 1. Did the kit come with planes or instructions?

 2. Stern stabilisers and dive planes: could the gap be for movement clearance?

 3. Sail opening...

   
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Mankster

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2014, 12:07:13 PM »


THANK YOU @Mankster
1) I want to see it finished first and with time I'm thinking to buy a new RC station ,
2) what actualy do a pitch controller on a sub ?
 
MARIUS


Well it controls the rear planes for you so your sub runs level under water, kid of like how a gyro on a rc helicopter keeps it flying stright.

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2014, 12:24:40 PM »

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Subculture

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2014, 04:11:12 PM »

I answered some of your questions on another forum. You can get by without a leveller/pitch controller, as funds are tight.

The slower and more stable the model is the less you need one. Think of it as the icing on the cake.

Looks like you're a considerable way off needing electrickery yet, and I would concentrate on the mechanical aspects of the build.

unbuiltnautilus

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2014, 05:09:55 PM »

I would add styrene sheet, vertically to the ends of your hydroplanes as shown, use a thick, high viscosity cyanoacrylate for this. Cut the styrene parts oversize, then when fully cured, file to match the rest of the hydroplane. leave enough play to allow the planes to move without binding though.
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2014, 06:13:04 PM »


 Hi Marius!

 1. Did the kit come with planes or instructions?



I bought ONLY the HULL and what it's shown in the pictures
 
 
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2014, 06:14:59 PM »

I answered some of your questions on another forum. You can get by without a leveller/pitch controller, as funds are tight.

The slower and more stable the model is the less you need one. Think of it as the icing on the cake.

Looks like you're a considerable way off needing electrickery yet, and I would concentrate on the mechanical aspects of the build.

Yes these is my intention for the moment !  :-)
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #11 on: February 07, 2014, 06:21:27 PM »

I would add styrene sheet, vertically to the ends of your hydroplanes as shown, use a thick, high viscosity cyanoacrylate for this. Cut the styrene parts oversize, then when fully cured, file to match the rest of the hydroplane. leave enough play to allow the planes to move without binding though.

 
 - I was thinking to so but I need another opinion , because someone who is not involved seen better from outside
 
MARIUS
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #12 on: February 10, 2014, 12:42:29 PM »

And some pictures with Hull and Motor Dimensions :







 
MARIUS
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #13 on: February 26, 2014, 10:57:30 AM »

QUESTIONS:
1) I found these Water Pump on eBay   

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATER-PUMP-E...#ht_1961wt_867

can be used to Fill/Empty a ballast tank for my LA sub ?.....is necessary to have a speed controller for it?.....how about the price/seller?.
My intention is to buy 2 pieces , one for these project and one for spare for another project .

2) how to make the propeller shaft be parallel to axis of the submarine ?.....what usual method can be applied for these operation ?

THANK YOU

MARIUS
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #14 on: March 06, 2014, 11:31:56 AM »

HI ,

To day I am very glad because I did some progress on the project.I know is NOT very much but when You don't have SPARE time at all and Your work shop is the kitchen and work bench is kitchen table - IF YOU GET THE PERMISSION from "MASTER CHEF" my WIFE !!! is A PROGRESS .

Couple days a go I glued a piece of PVC sheet on both Dive Planes . I din't have to file them to shape .




Yesterday and to day I did the Motor mount from a small piece of aluminum sheet .
It was necessary to Drill , cut , tap , file .
Doesn't look much but I keep the tools in to a small crowded closet , some of them on balcony , where is my lathe too !!! .
When I tray to do something it need 30min to get the tool down and another 30min - 40min to clean the work place .
I told You all these to see way is gonna be a very long thread plus the "dam found" always missing !.









See You soon I HOPE .

All the Best
MARIUS
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derekwarner

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #15 on: March 06, 2014, 09:50:38 PM »

QUESTIONS:
1) I found these Water Pump on eBay   

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATER-PUMP-E...#ht_1961wt_867

can be used to Fill/Empty a ballast tank for my LA sub ?.....is necessary to have a speed controller for it?.....how about the price/seller?.
My intention is to buy 2 pieces , one for these project and one for spare for another project .

2) how to make the propeller shaft be parallel to axis of the submarine ?.....what usual method can be applied for these operation ?
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Marius...

1. yes the Robbe pump is a true gear pump & is continuously rated [when pumping fluid].......but current draw on 6 volt is far more acceptable than on 12 volt....check a Robbe data sheet
2. your current L shaped motor mounting bracket will be subject to flexing........you should consider a mounting that attaches to the motor headcap & secured by the two M? tappings.....yes you may need to also consider air draft in the mounting bracket
With respect to maintaining alignment...........after the motor is mounted securely, install a temporary dummy shaft coupling between the motor shaft and the propeller shaft....this will then enable the propeller shaft to be secured so it looks like this 
[motor]-[dummy shaft coupling]-------------------[prop shaft bearing]---------------------------------[prop shaft bearing]-[propeller]
Only after you have  achieved this, can the temporary dummy shaft coupling be removed and a resilient coupling be fitted...............
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
1st image is another view of a Robbe pump
2nd image is your current motor mounting
3rd image are the two M? tappings in the motor headcap
good luck.........Derek

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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2014, 08:34:57 AM »

HI DEREK ,
 
"Marius...

"1. yes the Robbe pump is a true gear pump & is continuously rated [when pumping fluid].......but current draw on 6 volt is far more acceptable than on 12 volt....check a Robbe data sheet"
Is perfect becouse I have a 6V Pb Ac battery - see may first post with components ,

"2. your current L shaped motor mounting bracket will be subject to flexing........you should consider a mounting that attaches to the motor headcap & secured by the two M? tappings.....yes you may need to also consider air draft in the mounting bracket
With respect to maintaining alignment...........after the motor is mounted securely, install a temporary dummy shaft coupling between the motor shaft and the propeller shaft....this will then enable the propeller shaft to be secured so it looks like this 
[motor]-[dummy shaft coupling]-------------------[prop shaft bearing]---------------------------------[prop shaft bearing]-[propeller]
Only after you have  achieved this, can the temporary dummy shaft coupling be removed and a resilient coupling be fitted.....""
Can You make a sketch with "
motor]-[dummy shaft coupling]-------------------[prop shaft bearing]---------------------------------[prop shaft bearing]-[propeller]" or if You have some pictures will be much better  O0

___________________________________________________________________________________________________
"3rd image are the two M? tappings in the motor headcap"
I all ready used those 2 x M4 holes and are the only way to secure the motor on something .

"good luck.........Derek"
 
THANK for sharing your knowledge . These is what defines a Community . O0
 
REGADS
 
MARIUS

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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #17 on: March 10, 2014, 11:24:26 AM »

HI ,

Regarding some Advices I did some Work on NEW Motor Mount , and these is the Result: 
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #18 on: March 14, 2014, 09:53:19 AM »

HI GUYS ,

I did some work to day. Is not exactly " a piece of art" but is Hand Made , my HANDS ! so is perfect . I am joking of course . If there are some aspect witch can be improved be Free to tel me .
What I did today is actually 2 small bronze pieces , for rods control of rudders and dive planes . (I KNOW here is not quite Good English Grammatic !!!).
 
 All The Best and CLEAR WATERS

MARIUS
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #19 on: March 17, 2014, 11:12:19 AM »

HI there ,

I did some progress to day . I made the propeller shaft house . I don't know if is going to be the final , that's hard to say now . Wheel shall see . Any way these cames out after a 3 - 4 hours of hard work . Way take so much , is because I was going in just 0,010mm too MUCH and the Ball Bearing wasn't going as is should be . You now what I mean . I HAVE MY LIMITS !!!. I don't have the skills and the technick to do that kind of work from the first time . On the 3rd TIME It was Good Anough to give hem a shot .
Any tips/tricks/ would be great for those kind of operation in a very close future .
...A = Hight for the Ball Bearing ; B = hight for the Simmering . You can see way was a Little difficult to succeed from the first tray .





 
All the Best and CLEAR WATERS

MARIUS
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Subculture

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #20 on: March 17, 2014, 04:39:55 PM »

Could you not simplify things a bit by perhaps mounting the seal and bearing inside the endcap. If you choose a bearing with the same outside diameter as the seal, a straight bore through the middle of the cap would be sufficient.

profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #21 on: March 18, 2014, 12:30:21 PM »

HI @Subculture  :-)
 
It was my intention at the beginning but I couldn't find ball bearing and simmering with the same diameter , and I was looking for them more than worth it .
Second I'm NOT so good as skills level to do how you sad and my mini lathe is not very accurate , and If I would made even the smallest mistake I can ruin my WTC end cap  <:( .  And that's NOT acceptably  <*<  , as costs and most of all it was a PURE LUCK to find such big diameter material in my country .It was actualy a "second hand" spare material on a "blak market" , even so the cost was HUGE . >:-o .
I prefere to ruin cheapest materials as resin , witch I can cast as many times I want to close diameter  .
 
And these is the result of my work untill now:



 
MARIUS
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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #22 on: March 19, 2014, 12:41:19 PM »

Hi ,
Some ultimate arangements for the Push Rods and Propeller Shaft Sealing :

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
MARIUS
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derekwarner

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #23 on: March 20, 2014, 12:44:49 AM »

Marius........black nitrile or clear silicone O-rings will compress & provide a water tight static in these model applications provided a few basic steps are followed

1. mating cavity dimensions are correct
2. surface finish acceptable

However  <*< adding additional liquid silicone [Dow Corning type Silistic] is fraught with danger

3. liquid silicone will not adhere to nitrile or cured silicone O-rings...or to brass surfaces...or the white synthetic martial that you large disks are machined from
4. during the tightening or compression of the joint the liquid silistic will be displaced
5. you could consider drilling a large angular chamfer in the large discs.........to suit the O-rings & as they are tightened they will seal in the chamfer without the need for any additional sealant

Much better to reconsider options now than to wait until your first  immersion trial.........& find it is not water tight......Derek

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profesorul

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Re: LOS ANGELES build logs
« Reply #24 on: March 20, 2014, 08:47:47 AM »

HI DEREK,
 
THANK YOU so much for all the information .  :-)) .
 
Answer:
1) and 2)check ;
 
Question:
"liquid silicone " is 2 component material witch HAD to be cast ?.
Where can be bought in UK or Europe ?. Any similar material ?. Do you have a picture with what You use?.
 
You say is necessary to cast these silicone BETWEEN the Ball Bearing and the SIMMERING INSIDE of SHAFT guide ?
... or GUEST these silicon WITH OUT ANYTHING ELSE ?.

 

 

 
 ....or can be cast in some mold , very close as shape with the future "house" ? and then used as SEALANT .
 
Personal remark:
Those SIMMERING - like I used , are Used for all type of applications and they are used even for extreme high speed rotations of the ax (washing machine ; Deep extraction water pumps ; etc) and in our case we talk about couple hundreds rpm and for 20-30min . But is good to know we can improve/avoid any problems using these silicone . Thanks again .
 
MARIUS
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