Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: Club 500 build  (Read 7019 times)

Steven.T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 169
  • Location: Stockton-On-Tees
Club 500 build
« on: February 23, 2014, 03:16:50 pm »

Hi Guys,
Just bought a club 500 boat for my younger brother to use at the lake, and as a fairly cheap way of getting him into the hobby. at £45 for the kit, which includes motor, prop, shaft and rudder, can't really complain at that price! Going to be using an old 40mhz radio to keep the cost down aswell.
Anyway, photos of the build so far;









Now I'm expecting this to be pretty fast, so trying to keep the weight down, which I don't think will be difficult being made of plastic!
The only real problems I have had so far is getting the deck and hull trimmed so they will fit correctly, and the instructions aren't particularly easy to understand, but we are getting there!
Hopefully a bit more work done soon...
Cheers,
Steven
Logged

Skimmer Fan

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 302
  • Location: Wigan
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #1 on: February 23, 2014, 06:54:50 pm »

PM sent
Logged
Regards
Skimmer Fan

Martin (Admin)

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 23,361
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #2 on: February 23, 2014, 07:36:00 pm »


Looks OK to me!   :-))
Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!" -  Visit the Mayhem FaceBook Groups!  &  Giant Models

gregk9

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,266
  • Location: West Midlands
    • Chasewater Model Boat Club
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2014, 08:08:08 pm »

I would suggest placing a thin piece of rubber under the motor, helps to prevent the motor spinning round in its mounting. Ive found it works better than a squirt of silicone sealant.

make sure you use a good glue [or resin] to bond the two halves together, cheap quick set epoxy don't get on well with water and soon becomes the consistency of chewing gum. :-))
Logged
Best wishes.

Steve. G.
Treasurer & Membership Secretary:  Chasewater Model Boat Club
http://chasewatermbc.blogspot.com/

Steven.T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 169
  • Location: Stockton-On-Tees
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #4 on: February 26, 2014, 08:31:10 pm »

Yeah reading through the instructions they recommend Evostik nail and seal, just Googled it and says it's waterproof, flexible and paint-able.
http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/decorating-supplies/glue-tape-adhesives-sealants/combined_adhesives___sealants/Evo-Stik-Nail-and-Seal-Adhesive-and-Sealant-9254520


As for stopping the motor spinning, I was thinking a bit of wet n dry sandpaper folded in half so both rough sides are in contact with the motor and the mount. Should do the trick?


It's all wired up now anyway, just need to glue the deck on and it should be a case of off it goes, then a lick of paint of course!


Also need to find some sticky-back velcro to hold the battery tray in place...


Cheers,
Steven
Logged

Skimmer Fan

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 302
  • Location: Wigan
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #5 on: February 26, 2014, 08:38:08 pm »

Steve
Did the attachment with the PM open
Logged
Regards
Skimmer Fan

Steven.T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 169
  • Location: Stockton-On-Tees
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #6 on: February 26, 2014, 08:59:08 pm »

Yes I got it thank you! Been helpful, explains stuff a bit better than the instructions do!
Logged

Neil Martin

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 26
  • Location: Basildon
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2014, 11:34:46 pm »

Make sure when cutting the access hole in the deck section, that you leave a flat piece around the hole edge so you can seal down with tape. Do not cut to the corners as the instructions have shown.
These boats will turn over, especially when racing, you need to think about how best to seal the hull, both top & bottom & provide adequate emergency floatation support. I have used bubble wrap stuffed in anywhere I can particularly in the empty bow section.
I also use Fablon (or similar material) to line the inside of the hull. In the event of a break in the hull, I have found this useful at holding things together until the end of the race!

Neil.

PS you must use the Nail & Seal. It's perfect for the job.
Logged

Martin (Admin)

  • Administrator
  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 23,361
  • Location: Peterborough, UK
    • Model Boat Mayhem
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #8 on: February 27, 2014, 09:05:43 am »

 
Don't let any sealant get in the motor and make sure the area is well ventilated to prevent corrosive fumes!
Logged
"This is my firm opinion, but what do I know?!" -  Visit the Mayhem FaceBook Groups!  &  Giant Models

alan colson

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 693
  • I Just Dabble In Model Boats
  • Location: West Sussex
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #9 on: February 27, 2014, 09:21:51 am »

Steven, when I ran club 500's I used self adhesive Velcro on the motor and motor mount, this made for easy removal of motor if required, it stopped it twisting and if involved is a hard bang stopped the motor from slipping forward and jamming the prop.
Logged

norry

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 834
  • ...Get Your Tugs Out For The Bouys...
  • Location: Paisley Scotland
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #10 on: February 27, 2014, 10:55:55 am »

...Hi Guys...
 
Its a pity you are not nearer to Glasgow...
 
There are currently around 20 Club 500,s at various stages of build in our club at present...
 
That is Glasgow Richmond Model Boat Club...
 
A few of us built them 2 years ago and there is now a second batch being built by newer members...
 
The Races at our 30th Anniversary events this year are going to be hilarious...
 
...Best Regards...Norry...
Logged
...Get Your Tugs Out For The Buoys...

Netleyned

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 9,051
  • Location: Meridian Line, Mouth of the Humber
    • cleethorpes mba
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2014, 11:10:30 am »

Who is doing the kits now?


Ned
Logged
Smooth seas never made skilful sailors
Up Spirits  Stand fast the Holy Ghost.
http://www.cleethorpesmba.co.uk/

Neil Martin

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 26
  • Location: Basildon
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2014, 11:49:26 am »

Club 500s can be purchased from here:-

http://www.club500slipway.com

I believe they now come in an even greater variety of colours & styles!

Neil.
Logged

red181

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,795
  • Location: Wirral
Re: Club 500 build
« Reply #13 on: February 28, 2014, 10:29:43 pm »

we race club 500 at St Helens Model boat club

You cannot join the two halves with resin, its brittle. Use a silicon flexible sealant, evo stick is the best, does not leak, isn't brittle, and allows time to reposition before it goes off.
Mount the motor on good quality double sided tape, the sort that holds car number plates on. I see the shaft is positioned, did you use something to line up the motor and propshaft? remember that when setting the motor. I used this method, the boat has been submerged a few times and I'm on the 4th season with it, motor has never moved. Motor mount and tray for the servo, esc etc needs to be epoxied in. mount the battery tray with Velcro, so you can move it forward and backwards to shift the weight depending on weather conditions, put the rx and esc in a party balloon to help keep them dry, you will get water in the boat, and finally strengthen the rudder mount, its a weak point and prone to leaking :-))

have a look here
http://www.sthelensmodelboatclub.co.uk/

Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
 

Page created in 0.113 seconds with 22 queries.