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Author Topic: HMS Coventry build  (Read 116310 times)

ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #75 on: October 23, 2014, 08:55:06 PM »

Great idea! I will note that down for the future.

Looking good Joe.
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #76 on: October 24, 2014, 04:24:28 PM »

Cut out the quarter deck openings today, my Dremel really did earn it's keep, these openings leave very small areas of hull around them so I thought carefully drilling 2 mm. holes around the edge would be the safest method to form the opening and then using the Dremel with a 8 mm. drum sander clean up the edges all this didn't dent the Dremels battery, (I love that bit of kit), and also initially fitted the quarter deck
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ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #77 on: October 24, 2014, 09:59:21 PM »

That is a neat job. I find getting transitions from curves to straight cuts difficult.
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #78 on: October 25, 2014, 12:20:05 AM »

Yes I know what you mean, it did take a lot of concentration in case any of the openings went out of shape, I had a lay down in a dark room when it was done  {-) {-) {-) {-) %%
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #79 on: October 25, 2014, 04:33:22 PM »

Having dry fitted the aft quarter deck I had to decide whether to make it and the flight deck above it removable to access the tiller flat, I felt this would be so much hassle firstly trying to hold the quarter deck in place and make it water tight, and secondly holding the section of flight deck in place with such little amount of hull around it, so have decided to fit the steering gear and make it as durable as possible and fit the quarter deck permanently, and later when fitting the main deck I'll leave the section of flight deck loose till the quarter deck is fitted out, and then bond that in place to strengthen the hull round the openings.
Started the steering gear by making the tiller arms and link and fitted to boat seem to work as intended, next I'll fit the servo to complete the steering.
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warspite

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #80 on: October 25, 2014, 04:41:22 PM »

you could swap the two over 180 and have them linked at the rear so the linkage to the servo does not have the linkage above passing over it - just a thought
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #81 on: October 25, 2014, 05:05:06 PM »

always open to suggestions and other points of view, how's this, it still passes under on full port rudder but works how it should.  :-))
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John W E

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #82 on: October 25, 2014, 05:18:31 PM »

Hi it may pay you to double up on the servo push rods  :-))
Belt and braces as they say
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,15073.msg146604.html#msg146604

aye
john
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warspite

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #83 on: October 25, 2014, 05:37:09 PM »

 :-)) just an alternative arrangement
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #84 on: October 25, 2014, 06:54:55 PM »

Yes I could have used two push rods, and there would be no need for the link rod, there are of course many ways to achieve the same end, I am also going to link the stabilizers in with the rudder, probably as much use as the ones on the real thing, but as I said before I like the mechanics of it  %%
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ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #85 on: October 25, 2014, 08:33:48 PM »

I am glad to have joined MBM as I am learning lots of new tips on making boats and ships.

Just a thought re allowing access to the steering flat but making the hull water tight, Could you build the bulkhead in front of the quarterdeck full height from bilges to upper deck with openings for the control rod and using a rubber bellows to keep water from entering the hull proper?

This provides the majority of the hull watertight. Could you then use a soft rubber seal to keep the quarter deck in place and a deep bezel to hold the stern deck in place?

Just some 'finkin' on my part :O)
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #86 on: October 25, 2014, 08:55:23 PM »

There is so much detail built on the quarter deck and the bulkhead, it would be just impractical to make the deck removable, one thing I personally don't like to see is un scale screw heads holding removable decks in place,
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ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #87 on: October 25, 2014, 09:54:13 PM »

Fair enough. And there is nothing to hide the screw heads properly either.
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warspite

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #88 on: October 26, 2014, 12:24:39 PM »

magnets  {-)
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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #89 on: October 26, 2014, 01:02:00 PM »

Hi when I built my HMS Sheffield I fitted a threaded stud under the capstan head which picks up a bolt head under the deck. The bolt is secured to the hull. It worked !
Regards
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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #90 on: October 26, 2014, 03:18:03 PM »

Mushroom vents with a threaded stem
Into a captive nut also work invisibly.

Ned
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #91 on: October 28, 2014, 03:18:24 PM »

When I came to fit the motor bed I realised the length of the shafts I got put the motors right in the way of the aft stabilizers, so as there was 80 mm. of shaft forward of the bearing bosses I thought I'd move the motors aft 65 mm. this also had the effect of lowering the motors, which is not a bad thing, so now I have all the running gear installed, the motors I bought for the boat are Mabuchi 600s supposed to be 7.2 to 12 volt, but I wasn't to happy with how they ran on 7.2 v. they actually ran better on 12 v. I remembered I had a pair of Johnson 600s I acquired when I got my tug job lot, so decided to change them over, job done these Johnson's run very nicely on 7.2 volt. not sure why that is, they are all 5 pole. next I'll fit the 4 stabilizers.
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ballastanksian

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #92 on: October 28, 2014, 07:59:07 PM »

Your equipment layout is very logical and tidy. I have read that some model boaters disapprove of chocolate block connectors due to the possibility of cutting through the flex with the screw. Do you have a method of using them that makes them safe and efficient, or have you always used them having found no adverse effects? I suppose if you loosen and tighten them repeatedly when using them instead of Tamiya or Deans connectors they will cause problems, but as a long term connection system this isn't a worry.

Keep up the good work Joe. Having read Bluebirds build log of HMS York, it is interesting to see the ways you and he are travelling to build your '42s'

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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #93 on: October 28, 2014, 10:32:30 PM »

Yes I frequently use block connectors and have never had problems, the trick is to solder the tails first, the screw clamp system is not only found in block connectors some expensive distribution panels use them, and if you take the brass bit out of the block it can be used to join control rods.  :-))
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #94 on: October 29, 2014, 06:01:52 PM »

Made the stabilizers by laminating two pieces of 1.5mm styrene over a 3mm brass stock, the stock had the end ground to a flat that fitted in the recesses in each half of the blade, bonded together and sanded to foil profile, I decided not to use the ones from Sirmar, they would be fine for a static display, but as I'm experimenting with working stabilizers I made them a bit over scale. %)
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #95 on: October 29, 2014, 07:00:06 PM »

Looking ahead somewhat I've been pondering whether to use styrene or ply for the superstructures, I prefer working with ply, but have to be careful of weight, a test today was for me surprizing, I weighed a piece of 1mm styrene it was 62 grams, I cut a piece of 1/16" ply to the same dimensions and it weighed exactly the same, must admit I always thought styrene was lighter, so ply it is then.  %%
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #96 on: October 30, 2014, 04:49:47 PM »

made the operating levers to complete the stabilizer kit, next to fit to boat.
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #97 on: October 30, 2014, 04:59:24 PM »

spent this afternoon fitting the stabilizers, used strips of .5mm styrene to set the clearance between hull and blade, the tubes were fitted in the hull tightly to help hold in place, and the blades held with tape at the right angle, then fitted the stiffener webs and tack in place with cryano, and the epoxy, next the control rods were made up and fitted, and all is working as I had intended. %%
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derekwarner

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #98 on: October 30, 2014, 07:57:38 PM »

Joe....have you considered linking the servo for the 4 stabilizer blades with a submarine or helicopter type gyro? .... Derek
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radiojoe

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Re: HMS Coventry build
« Reply #99 on: October 30, 2014, 09:17:18 PM »

Hi Derek,  I had thought of that earlier in the build, even thought I had an old gyro somewhere but must have thrown it out when I refurbed my work shop, so I decided to link them with the rudder to try and counter the roll out on turning, most likely won't do anything, but I enjoyed working it all out and making them work.
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