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Author Topic: Nooby Sea Trojan Build  (Read 4580 times)

KillerDave

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Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« on: June 06, 2014, 11:30:50 PM »

Hi folks,


I am brand new to this forum and to tugs!


After my father passed away 4 years ago, I was passed all of his RC stuff. I have been racing boats, flying planes and driving cars since I was a teen but never really did anything like a tug...


So, I have the hull and upper moldings, a motor, prop and shaft, Kort Nozzle and a bunch of batteries.
I also have the drawings set but that's about it...


If there are any tug builders out there, I would love some ideas of where to start...??? I really do need a pointer just to get me started as the drawings are a little light on what's going on inside and what holds up the deck...???


Anyway, tomorrow is another day and I hope to make a start... Maybe......
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boatmadman

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #1 on: June 07, 2014, 08:50:03 AM »

Hi


Welcome to the madhouse, where you will get a variety of responses to your questions - and some of them might even be right!


Where to start? A good starting point is to mark out on the inside of the hull where all the bits and pieces will go, like rudder mount, motor mount, servo tray, battery, etc whilst remembering you will need to add ballast later on.


After that its best to cut the hull for the prop shaft and rudder, the drawing should show you where to make the holes.


As for fitting the deck, you may need to glue strips of wood around the inside of the hull at a level such that when the deck sits on them it is in the right place. It would also be a good idea to make and fit cross bearers at a couple of places, but not where you want access into the hull!


Give the inside of the hull moulding a really good wash with hot soapy water before you start, this should remove any traces of moulding products that would weaken any glue you use.


Glues - twin pack epoxy to attach to the hull, aliphatic resin glue for wood-wood fixing.


Good luck


Ian
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #2 on: June 07, 2014, 10:01:55 AM »

Hi Ian,
 
Thanks for the wise words!  :-))  I will give it a scrub this afternoon!!!
 
My plan so far WAS to make a floor at water line 7 so I can build from that as a base...???
 
I have used the lines on the drawings and cut the tear drop shape out of 10mm ply, I just need to bevel the edges, set the hull on a stand level and glue the floor in level... I think???
 
From there I can fix the prop shaft in (I did start this for my dad years ago but somehow, the shaft was in the wrong place?) The base for the Kort nozzle is also in..
 
So, once the propshaft and floor are in, I can move onto the motor and batteries... Then the deck support as you suggested...
 
I will post some pictures later of what I have and am doing...
 
Not sure on how much I can get done as I have a very busy weekend planned...
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dougal99

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2014, 11:22:53 AM »

If I understand correctly you are planning to fit a horizontal platform inside the hull at water line level completely obscuring the bottom of the hull. Is that correct? If so in the words of Harry Enfield 'you don't want to do that'. You need to fit the prop shaft. Line up the motor, making a motor mount to match. You need to leave as much of the hull accessible so you can place ballast, as low as you can get it, later.


HTH


Doug
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2014, 11:27:15 AM »

If I understand correctly you are planning to fit a horizontal platform inside the hull at water line level completely obscuring the bottom of the hull. Is that correct? If so in the words of Harry Enfield 'you don't want to do that'. You need to fit the prop shaft. Line up the motor, making a motor mount to match. You need to leave as much of the hull accessible so you can place ballast, as low as you can get it, later.


HTH


Doug

No, no, no...
 
Go down to almost the bottom... there are 8 waterline profiles and the one I have chosen is right at the bottom of the hull...
I will post pictures soon.....
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kmmbcwebmaster

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #5 on: June 07, 2014, 11:42:00 AM »

I find that the best source for help and advice besides here on mayhem is your local model boat club , there is always members happy to advice or help you with your builds .
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #6 on: June 07, 2014, 11:52:15 AM »

I find that the best source for help and advice besides here on mayhem is your local model boat club , there is always members happy to advice or help you with your builds .

Unfortunately, my club has been going through some "troubled water"! While the club still exists, it's no long active, for now at least...
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boatmadman

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #7 on: June 07, 2014, 01:14:17 PM »

Hi,


Before you actually fix the deck in place for the motor, consider that the motor will be set at an angle so as to align correctly with the propshaft.


The best and easiest way to get the motor angle right is to make a rigid coupling from motor to prop shaft, secure the shaft to the hull permanently, then secure the motor to its bedplate. Once that is done you can take away the rigid coupling and replace it with a flexi coupling of your choice (silicone tube works well).


Ian
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #8 on: June 07, 2014, 01:41:29 PM »

Hi,


Before you actually fix the deck in place for the motor, consider that the motor will be set at an angle so as to align correctly with the propshaft.


The best and easiest way to get the motor angle right is to make a rigid coupling from motor to prop shaft, secure the shaft to the hull permanently, then secure the motor to its bedplate. Once that is done you can take away the rigid coupling and replace it with a flexi coupling of your choice (silicone tube works well).


Ian


Thanks again Ian,


I did think about that and among the kit and bit-n-bobs, there is an alignment tool and a coupling...
All in the photo's to follow....
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #9 on: June 07, 2014, 03:47:59 PM »

Ok, So lets see if this works...

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dougal99

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #10 on: June 07, 2014, 04:56:41 PM »

When you said water line I had assumed, incorrectly, that you meant the line around the hull that the water should reach when correctly ballasted. I still think you should mount the motor on a transverse platform wide enough for the motor rather than 'floor' the whole hull. That will let you place ballast as low as you can get it.
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #11 on: June 07, 2014, 05:37:20 PM »

When you said water line I had assumed, incorrectly, that you meant the line around the hull that the water should reach when correctly ballasted. I still think you should mount the motor on a transverse platform wide enough for the motor rather than 'floor' the whole hull. That will let you place ballast as low as you can get it.


An easy mistake to make and partly my fault...


I called it a water line because that's what it's called on the drawing, WL1, 2, 3, 4,l 5, 6, 7, 8.


WL7 is very low anyway and I wanted a flat base to mount the batteries...


I will take another picture to show what I am thinking....
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #12 on: June 07, 2014, 06:44:01 PM »

Apart from advice about the above, I would like some guidance on the Prop and Kort nozzle...


My dad did make a Kort from ally and that is as on the plan, If I was to fit that, the prop would need to be around 100mm as on the plan at 103mm.


I also have the resin Kort with an 86mm prop...


So... What Shall I go for???


The ally one will need a new prop and a little more work to fit too...
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #13 on: June 07, 2014, 08:02:06 PM »

Ok, I think I've made my mind up...


As they are both about the same height, I am going to go with what I have most complete... The resin part, I can make it so I can change it to dads part later but at 63, that's an expensive prop!!!


Tomorrow, I am going to rip into the floor giving it a chamfer and see how it fits... maybe get the deck support rail started too???
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tugnut

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #14 on: June 07, 2014, 08:19:51 PM »

Hi Dave, the mobile marine prop is the easy way i used a brass tube to line my shaft to the motor.
This one is twin screw but the same idea the motor mount let you push the motors in place with ease ,then clamp down
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #15 on: June 07, 2014, 08:23:29 PM »

Hi Dave, the mobile marine prop is the easy way i used a brass tube to line my shaft to the motor.
This one is twin screw but the same idea the motor mount let you push the motors in place with ease ,then clamp down

Thanks, Looks great!


How about the battery placement??? I'm trying to use the batteries weight as the bulk of the ballast....
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tugnut

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #16 on: June 07, 2014, 08:31:13 PM »

On the Trojan the battry will sit in front of the motor i used 12v 14 amp battry so you don't need a lot of LED,
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #17 on: June 07, 2014, 08:45:19 PM »

On the Trojan the battry will sit in front of the motor i used 12v 14 amp battry so you don't need a lot of LED,


Got those listed on Amazon, 3.7Kg??? My 12/7's weigh 2.6 and I was thinking of using 3 or 4 of them???
But then there's a motor cycle battery at 5.3Kg's...
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #18 on: June 08, 2014, 06:37:20 PM »

Ok,


So I got the floor in but I had a thought....


I'm going to shorten the propshaft and get the motor towards the rear some more...

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boatmadman

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #19 on: June 09, 2014, 08:07:30 PM »

Before you do that, just be aware that shortening the prop shaft will increase the angle of the shaft and thus make the prop a steeper angle relative to the water level.


The effect of this, though relatively minimal, will be to lift the stern, lower the bow and reduce the forward thrust.


Generally speaking, its best to keep the shaft longer which moves the motor forward. Dont worry about the position of the weight of the motor, its relatively insignificant in a decent sized tug hull.


Ian
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #20 on: June 09, 2014, 11:13:21 PM »

Before you do that, just be aware that shortening the prop shaft will increase the angle of the shaft and thus make the prop a steeper angle relative to the water level.


The effect of this, though relatively minimal, will be to lift the stern, lower the bow and reduce the forward thrust.


Generally speaking, its best to keep the shaft longer which moves the motor forward. Dont worry about the position of the weight of the motor, its relatively insignificant in a decent sized tug hull.


Ian




Thanks Ian,


I already considered that.. The drawing shows a downward thrust line of a few degrees and the motor would be an inch or so above my floor.


Moving the motor rearward (on the same drive line) has bought the motor right down and it frees up loads of space for the batteries and will keep it tidy!  :-)
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #21 on: June 14, 2014, 01:39:14 PM »

Ok,


So, last night, I got the drive shaft, motor and Kort all fitted and looking ok-ish....


I guess the next step would be to build the deck support and the deck itself???


Any tips???


As there are no flat surfaces inside the hull, I'm not sure how to get this done??? Should I use balsa strip? hard wood???


And then there's making the deck itself??? I think there's going to be lots of gaps....


David...
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KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #22 on: June 16, 2014, 09:27:17 PM »

Hi, Can anybody point me in the right direction on how to build a deck support?
nothing inside the hull is flat....


Do I just glue short pieces of square section round the edge? (at the right height)


I really want to keep this going.... along with building a Springer for my daughter!  :-))


Any help???
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NFMike

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #23 on: June 16, 2014, 11:17:04 PM »

Do I just glue short pieces of square section round the edge? (at the right height)

Basically, yes.
But better to use continuous support/long pieces - ie. no gaps - or you'll likely have the deck sagging/bowing where there isn't support. Some kits use 2 layers to build this support (eg. two 6x3mm pieces stacked to give 6x6), but you'll probably still need to notch the pieces where the bends are tight.


Edit: If you are using plastic strip to a glassfibre hull, roughen both mating surfaces (eg. coarse sandpaper) and use epoxy to stick them. When thoroughly set you can just use plastic cement to stick the second strip onto the first without needing to roughen them - but clean them of course.

KillerDave

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Re: Nooby Sea Trojan Build
« Reply #24 on: June 16, 2014, 11:40:46 PM »

Thanks Plague...


Most of the problem is that there are no flat surfaces to glue the strip to...


I have an idea or two so I'll take some pictrures tomorrow evening and post them up...
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