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Author Topic: broken screw removal  (Read 2418 times)

essex2visuvesi

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broken screw removal
« on: July 14, 2014, 11:41:03 PM »

I manage to snap the ball studs on My RC10 "Extra bling build"  >>:-(


I managed to fit them the wrong way round and when trying to remove them, I managed the snap them both  :embarrassed:
They have snapped in such a way that there is no exposed part of the broken thread.
I'm guessing these will be to be drilled out and retapped.
This is not a job I really want to tackle myself as the parts that the screws are stuck in are no longer available.
Anyone up for the challenge?

the ballstud in question is the one on the lower left of the picture fitted to the Camber arm.... same on the other side.
Happy to post the parts to anyone willing to have a go :)

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derekwarner

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #1 on: July 15, 2014, 12:00:38 AM »

e2v....

1. are these the ball joints sheared studs circled in red?
2. are the tapping's full depth to the opposite side of the component?
3. are they M3?.....
3. if they are, you could use the existing tapping size drill [M2.5?] & drill from the opposite side
4. the expectation is that the tapping drill will partially drill into the broken steel threaded elements & rotate to unscrew them
5. if this happens you may have succeeded in not damaging the existing M3 tapping's
6. if worst comes to worst & the threads are damaged you may need to oversize tap to M5, the redrill & tap to the existing M3
7. did you by any chance use a high strength LOCTITE Stud-lock on the initial installation?

Good luck.................Derek


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essex2visuvesi

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #2 on: July 15, 2014, 01:06:50 AM »

Its an American kit so they are imperial.
The picture was taken before I broke the ballstuds so they are intact
the broken ballstud is to the left of your circle and yes the tapping goes all the way through (the ballstud should have been fitted to the back side)
Yes I did use threadlock but the blue stuff
Normally heating them up with a soldering iron has worked in the past
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CyberBOB

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #3 on: July 15, 2014, 01:58:04 AM »

Have you tried a left-handed drill bit?


Not sure how small they make them, but work pretty good.

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JayDee

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2014, 06:07:03 PM »

Hello,

Was in our local LIDL today and found a screw removal set.
Various sizes of devices to remove screws, left hand drills, with left hand threads combined into one unit.
Not seen them before, but the idea seemed to be OK.
Maybe worth a try !!.

John.  ok2
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Netleyned

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2014, 06:14:58 PM »

They work well John.
However in the modelling world access ability
is everything.
I've found that changing slot and cross headed screws for
Allen screws and with a set of ball end Allen keys you
have a fighting chance.
A bit of copper slip on the screws initially is another help.

Ned
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Guy Bagley

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2014, 10:04:52 AM »

if required you could drill them out oversize.... and then fit a helicoil treaded insert to return to  smaller thread size... ?
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2014, 12:04:08 PM »

Thank you for the suggestions guys.. Ill take them onboard for next time, however on this occasion the parts are currently on the way to Canada to be worked on by Mick (IrishCarGuy)
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cdsc123

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #8 on: July 17, 2014, 03:37:53 PM »

If you're not too fussed about marking the surface then the easiest way is to cut a slot into the stubs using a Dremel and take them out with a flat blade screwdriver  :-))
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: broken screw removal
« Reply #9 on: July 17, 2014, 03:41:21 PM »

If you're not too fussed about marking the surface then the easiest way is to cut a slot into the stubs using a Dremel and take them out with a flat blade screwdriver  :-))


That's the problem... The part is anodised an no longer available, the car is being built as a display piece, so everything must be just so
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