Topic: FISHERIES RESEARCH VESSEL SCOTIA (Read 83927 times)

Seaspray · « **Reply #75 on:** February 20, 2015, 10:40:03 pm »

Forgot I had to remove part of the rubbing strakes to have a nice flat area for the lower part of the side gate to sit right tight to hull. Its on the plan that it run thru the gate. But looking at pictures of Scotia it doesn't

pic 1.2.3. Using the dremel two angles cut out of strake. Centre part removed and then rubbed down with wet n dry

Seaspray · « **Reply #76 on:** February 22, 2015, 12:51:05 pm »

Just masked up to spray the hull. I am going to try and spray the hull in one hit by not removing the masking tape till all 3 colours are on the hull.

Pic 1, 2

John W E · « **Reply #77 on:** February 22, 2015, 04:13:56 pm »

hi ya my mate, aye your build is looking good!

just out of interest, how does this model compare for overall size against the Meteor? Is it a similar scale?

aye, watching with interest

aye

john

Seaspray · « **Reply #78 on:** February 22, 2015, 04:40:46 pm »

Hi John
Meteor is 1: 100 and is 95.5 mm long. Scotia is 1: 76 (ish) and is 92 mm long. They look good size together. I think I've sussed out that middle deck arrangement. I'll be bringing them over in late spring

Nice to hear from you hope your a lot better now.

Martin

Mark T · « **Reply #79 on:** February 22, 2015, 05:14:55 pm »

Hi Martin

I know its a PITA masking up but in my experience if you don't remove the masking tape whilst the paint is still soft, when you do either the paint will crack at the edges or the tape won't come off. Just a thought

Mark

Seaspray · « **Reply #80 on:** February 22, 2015, 05:48:14 pm »

Cheers Mark

I wouldn't have it on for longer than 3 days as it is a mess to get off. The masking on the model at the moment is only to stop the primer go on to bearers and inner areas that are going to have glue on them. I was hoping to do primer today but it iffy in the shed cause of the rain.

Still pondering to use white or gray primer as the white will make top coat lighter and gray darker.

I think the weather and time of year will have to have each colour done separately with a day or two between them.

I usually pull the tape off 5 minutes after spraying and pull it into the edge I want to keep sharp

Seaspray · « **Reply #81 on:** March 01, 2015, 10:27:41 am »

Little problem spraying the hull. Trying my luck in a cold, damp, dark shed and first thing in the morning didn't work out. At least I knew when to stop before things got really bad. I also had another look at the side gate and reworked it in plastic. A kink in this area of the hull where it was cut out and plastic could take a little bend in it to help loose some of the kink.

pic 1, 2 Hull rubbed down to get rid of all runs and blotches
pic 3, 4 New plastic side gate top glued into place and support with resin / tissue at back.
pic 5 Trying to get a colour match to RAL 5015 Sky Blue. Using the computer screen doesn't give a 100% true colour /shade

DavieTait · « **Reply #82 on:** March 11, 2015, 05:06:32 pm »

The small section of blue beside the gate is the closest to the colour she is, its one of these things for some reason it all depends on the time of year and the amount of light she can look dark blue or light blue so right in the middle is as close as you'll get.

Seaspray · « **Reply #83 on:** March 11, 2015, 06:30:54 pm »

Cheers Dave

I am getting the same with the model paints So if its the one on the left of the gate painted on the upright plastic card its Revell no 50 and its an oil based paint. The Little square painted part on the large pieces (Ford blues) is the Revell 50. So its telling me to paint on a white primer to get near to the shade. So its back to the search for an acrylic spray as I don't want to hand paint the hull or mix paint types

Seaspray · « **Reply #84 on:** April 27, 2015, 04:35:59 pm »

Finally got the outside of the hull painted. I had a lot of trouble trying to get a real white finish on the white top section using white primer after about 4 coats gave up and raised a help on the forum under "Hull paint problems" in Painting Section. Advised to use Appliance White so primed rubbed down the hull again and sprayed it with Appliance White and it had a real white finish I was looking for. Thanks to the members for their help. Then had a lot of bleeding using Halfords masking tape. With help from Stavros advised and bought fine line 3m masking tape. Got good straight lines using the 3m tape with no bleeding. The blue used on the hull is the nearest colour David Tait referred to I could find to spray on hull

Pic 1 & 2 shows the bleeding which caused a lot of rework on the hull
Pic 3, 4, 5, 6 the hull finished waiting for the paint to cure then a coat of Chestnut satin lacquer.

Seaspray · « **Reply #85 on:** April 27, 2015, 04:51:51 pm »

and pic 7 inside of gate

DavieTait · « **Reply #86 on:** April 27, 2015, 04:52:45 pm »

The colour is spot on , as I said it depended on the time of year and amount of sunlight on the hull but its about as close as anyone will ever get to the colour she is without phoning the painters of the real boat and getting a small tin of their paint ( bit expensive as its all 2 pack epoxy paint they use now lol )

Seaspray · « **Reply #87 on:** May 08, 2015, 06:26:45 pm »

Have done a little more lately

Pic 1 & 2 Tidied up the rear bulwarks area couple coats of Tamiya white and black.

Couldn't get the right colour of blue lettering for the name. So I sprayed the name letters with the correct colour from the rattle can blue as on the hull and got a perfect match.

Pic 3 The letters do look like they are the correct colour prespraying but that is just the camera.

Pic 4 & 5 They were stuck to grease proof paper and sprayed removed just after they were dry no cured.

Pic 6 & 7 Masked up to line up letters evenly in the right place

There were little rough edges on the letters which was rubbed off using a stiff brush gently. I am happy with them

cos918 · « **Reply #88 on:** May 08, 2015, 07:43:12 pm »

Hi
looking very good. Like your tip on the letter, must remember that one

john

Seaspray · « **Reply #89 on:** May 08, 2015, 08:45:43 pm »

John

I use another type of paper next time probably smother and shiny to get a better edge on the letters

Seaspray · « **Reply #90 on:** May 12, 2015, 09:43:27 am »

Not much modelling happening with the weather getting better.
Pic 1 fitted the walk way I'll have to remove this to make it deeper as it being too short won't tie up with the ladder/ deck down to it
Pic 2 Sheets of clear plasticard for the porthole and window they have a protective film on them
Pic 3 Pieces cut to shape ready for gluing. I'll use superglue.
Pic 4 Glued and clamp plasticard into position.
Pic 5 & 6 Clamps and film being removed and no glue on the plasticard.

I may paint the the widows / portholes black to stop people looking into the model.
I'll be spending a few weeks working out how to build the mid and aft decks for getting into the running gear

Seaspray · « **Reply #91 on:** September 25, 2015, 12:08:31 pm »

Not happy with the planned layout of the Scotia.I arranged to go over to Newcastle to see Bluebird (John). I took The Meteor to let John have a look at the finished model as he only had seen it on the Mayhem build. Then we turned to the layout of the Scotia. After some discussing we decided to start from scratch altering the running gear cause access to where it was would be a pain to get to fix or service. Also the rear section of the superstructure (Decks) will now be glued down, leaving a 2 inch hatch on the rear work deck. This'll allow entry to the servo and rudder arm.

pic 1 started with the idea of adding another shaft to the original one. Didn't like this
pic 2, 3 removed both bearings from the shaft
pic 4 started to remove old shaft using the soldering iron. Good job Bluebird advised me to araldite the original shaft in, it was removed with
a little coaxing. Had it been resined it would have been a drill job and maybe not so successful.
pic 5 bought a new 16 inch shaft from MBB fitted motor to mount and to a temporary coupling offered into position to see what else needed to be altered. Cut a notch in centre frame and just managed to fit in, saves moving ESC
pic 6 Fitted motor to mount using stainless steel countersunk screws, nyloc nuts, washers,
pic 7, 8 secured screws by cutting a staple in two, drilling a hole next to the screw head inserting the half staple down the hole and into the
screw slot with a touch of araldite to secure

Seaspray · « **Reply #92 on:** September 25, 2015, 05:31:48 pm »

I've got on with fitting motor and batteries. bought an aligning tool from MBB and they made up a 16 inch shaft 4mm inner steel shaft and 6.5 outer brass case. This'll fit nicely into the old shaft hole in hull. It had a centre bearing fitted to stop whiplash also an oiler. Haven't made up my mind weather batteries are going to be in series or parallel.

pic 1 aligning tool fitted, motor/ shaft in position leaving a good amount of thread for prop to screw on and clearance from ESC
pic 2 motor glued in and flexible coupling/ motor / shaft in permanent position. Battery tray made from scrap wood
pic 3, 4 batteries in place nice and low keeps c of g low. Middle frame just camera angle makes it look cocked

Now the decks

Seaspray · « **Reply #93 on:** September 25, 2015, 08:14:06 pm »

couple more pics

pic 1,2 no damage done to area where old shaft was removed so no filling or painting required.

pic 3 Noticed that not all flexible couplings are the same size but I'll make sure I'll use 40 mm like the aligning tool on the most right

Capt Podge · « **Reply #94 on:** September 26, 2015, 01:57:59 pm »

Great to see you're still at it Seaspray - looking forward to more of your informative updates.

Regards,

Ray.

Seaspray · « **Reply #95 on:** September 26, 2015, 02:44:41 pm »

Cheers Ray

Things are now sorted regards the decks and their layout thanks to Bluebird. But first a little test at the pond Sunday.

Seaspray · « **Reply #96 on:** September 27, 2015, 04:46:03 pm »

Test run went well no problems. Although sat high in the water (no ballast ) made good speed but will consider a 5 blade prop in the near future

ballastanksian · « **Reply #97 on:** September 27, 2015, 06:59:59 pm »

I do like the design of your Model Sea spray. I like the way the bulwarks vary in height all over the place with all the ates and openings.

Are their laboratotries and the like on board or is she just taking readings for quantities of species etc?

I look forward to seeing the superstructure and fittings as you whittle them.

TTFN, Ian:O)

Seaspray · « **Reply #98 on:** September 27, 2015, 08:22:13 pm »

The Tasks
Scotia is used to monitor and evalulate fish stocks by trawling , acoustic surveys, and specialised sampling. The ship is also equiped to carry out state-of-the-art oceanographic in all weather condition, and plays an important role in monitoring the seas around Scotland.

There is container labs on board

ballastanksian · « **Reply #99 on:** September 28, 2015, 11:01:28 am »

Thanks for the info. I look forward to your next installment.

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Author Topic: FISHERIES RESEARCH VESSEL SCOTIA (Read 83927 times)