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Author Topic: soldering electrical connections  (Read 3991 times)

troutrunner

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soldering electrical connections
« on: October 13, 2014, 01:19:07 PM »

Any tips or equipment that might help and which soldering iron/gun should I buy please ?

It's a long time since I did any soldering of electrical wires and would much appreciate your comments.

Thanks, Paul
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Paul

Netleyned

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2014, 01:27:16 PM »

Clean Clean Clean.
Any good 25W iron for normal wiring.
Stay away from solder guns
I swear by an RS gas iron that can go to the
lake with me and has put many a model back
on the water after a solder joint failure.


Ned
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troutrunner

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2014, 01:47:23 PM »

Thanks Ned
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Paul

troutrunner

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #3 on: October 13, 2014, 02:36:29 PM »

Been looking on the Net at various types of soldering irons on various websites/ebay and am confused as to what might be a good one,  I don't recognise any makes I have found apart from Silverline and that is a make I know but had a bad experience of their stuff in the past.
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Paul

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troutrunner

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #5 on: October 13, 2014, 03:03:14 PM »

Thanks Ned, I should have thought about RS, I have used them before and picked stuff up from Corby 8)
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Paul

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #6 on: October 13, 2014, 03:09:34 PM »

I used them for years professionally
They may be a tad expensive, but
service is good and the tools they do
are top notch.


Ned
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sparkey

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #7 on: October 13, 2014, 03:28:13 PM »

 :-)) I would go with the gas iron, got a couple, one for the workshop and one in tool box which I take to the lake,tool box one cost about a tenner and the workshop one I got from maplins cost about 40 quid came with a lot extra tips and extras,still use a 24v iron which I used at work, trouble is it comes with a big heavy transformer,the gas option gives you so much more freedom no leads!, forget rechargeable  ones waste of time,   Ray. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))   
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Netleyned

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #8 on: October 13, 2014, 03:53:12 PM »

This one is about Ten or Twelve years old and still going strong.
Comes to the lake with me and also used at home.
Think it was about 15 new so good value at about a per year.


Ned
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flashtwo

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #9 on: October 13, 2014, 04:00:33 PM »

Hi,

Try lead-free solder (i.e. mostly tin) and lead solder and see which one you prefer, both have the flux within them.

Personally, I prefer the lead solder, since it flows much better and doesn't require too hot a soldering iron.

For the small amount we use in our hobby, I don't think it should impact the environment too much.

Ian.
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inertia

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #10 on: October 13, 2014, 04:06:43 PM »

Depends on how much soldering and what sort you intend. I'd wouldn't use a gas-powered soldering iron for assembly work as the tip can get too hot for some delicate jobs. A temp-controllable iron is a sensible investment and this one looks like a good buy at the moment - I'd expect to pay quite a bit more for such a tool.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/48w-lcd-display-solder-station-n16ch
BTW lead-free solder is lousy stuff to use c/w resin-cored lead+tin. Lead-free is only mandatory for commercial assembly work; for DIY use my advice is to avoid it like the plague. It also eats away soldering tips like crazy.
Dave M
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troutrunner

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2014, 04:17:58 PM »

Thanks chaps, lots of food for thought now
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Paul

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #12 on: October 13, 2014, 04:58:07 PM »

I have a Weller solder station. These are expensive  - not for use down at the lake  but
exceptional quality from Germany.
(It was a gift last Christmas)!
N
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barriew

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #13 on: October 13, 2014, 05:07:52 PM »

Depends on how much soldering and what sort you intend. I'd wouldn't use a gas-powered soldering iron for assembly work as the tip can get too hot for some delicate jobs. A temp-controllable iron is a sensible investment and this one looks like a good buy at the moment - I'd expect to pay quite a bit more for such a tool.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/48w-lcd-display-solder-station-n16ch
BTW lead-free solder is lousy stuff to use c/w resin-cored lead+tin. Lead-free is only mandatory for commercial assembly work; for DIY use my advice is to avoid it like the plague. It also eats away soldering tips like crazy.
Dave M


I agree Dave. I've had one of these for several years now and there is no sign of wear on the tip. Not sure what its made of, but its not copper  :-))  Even lead free doesn't seem to affect it.


Barrie
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sparkey

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #14 on: October 13, 2014, 05:20:17 PM »

 :-)) Forgot the 24v iron is a Weller with light blue handle got it from a collage that was closing down,that was 35 years ago and still good,you can get tips from R.S. the only drawback is the weight of the transformer,still a good bit of kit after all these years and so well made,I think it is 15 watt ,Ray. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #15 on: October 13, 2014, 07:20:20 PM »

I have a Weller solder station. These are expensive  - not for use down at the lake  but
exceptional quality from Germany.
(It was a gift last Christmas)!
N


Seconded.... I've had mine since the 80's and it was a hand-me-down then
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grasshopper

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Re: soldering electrical connections
« Reply #16 on: October 13, 2014, 08:12:20 PM »

I use a similar orange coloured gas soldering iron ( labelled Portasol ) when out on service calls and at the track where it often gets called upon to repair other people's RC cars.
On the bench I mostly use an Antex 25W soldering iron for general stuff and an Antex 15W for little stuff.


When I used to make up my own NiCad and NimH packs I have an old 100W tinman's soldering iron that's about 18" long with a rubber lead and a Bakelite handle, takes 20 minutes to get to temperature but holds  its heat well for big jobs.


I also have a solder gun but can't recommend it as a good device...far too heavy and cumbersome for working in the confines of a boat hull.
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