Thanks Nemo. I find that aluminium tends to be shaved (over time) by the blade, so a steel version with a protection shield is the thing to look out for.
ken
Ken,
A Solution.
Lower the blade angle so it "rests" against the guide.
A near vertical angle will tend to "cut into" whatever guide you are using. Instead of drawing the blade across the surface.
The lower angle puts more blade against the guide, straighter cut less effort reduced slippage.
Unless you change the angle, you will still shave the steel guide and blunt your blades more frequently.
I use a cutter with a wide adjustable blade, the snap off type, this allows more or less blade to be exposed for the task at hand.
Also I always re-hone the blade after use, until it is past its use by date, before breaking off the "end".
Stanley knives don't give you very good control during use, as they are more suited for harder, less accurate rougher work.
My other knife is a scalpel, but watch the fingers because it is painless cutting them.
Look closely at a 'Stanley' blade and you see it's cutting edge is 'V' shaped which does not allow accurate cutting along a line or straight edge. The same applies for the adjustable blade knife, however the blade is thinner and you can expose more blade length so that the flat of the blade runs along the straight edge.
My knives are like chisels, different ones for different tasks but the main two used are,
1. Wide break off blade type
2. Scalpel, with several with different blade shapes.
Practice it and see how you go.
