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Author Topic: Krick Lisa M  (Read 16385 times)

Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #25 on: November 01, 2014, 05:22:23 PM »

To make it clear - this drawing adapted from the plans shows the bits in the picture above. The photo shows the coaming (red in drawing) clamped to the inner lip (blue) which had been previously glued round the underside of the opening in the deck (green)
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #26 on: November 02, 2014, 04:38:56 AM »

Decided to put a 540 brushed motor in this boat, so I've ordered the Mtroniks Viper 20 ESC, UJ connector and a few other bits and bobs from Cornwall Model Boats. Got a spare motor already so I'll get that in tomorrow.
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #27 on: November 02, 2014, 10:39:52 AM »

Here's the rudder mount. Notice that in the 1st picture you can see the slope on each of the side pieces. I decided to reinforce the whole assembly with more wood.
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #28 on: November 02, 2014, 10:41:47 AM »

Here are the motor/servo mounts (upside down) and battery mounts built as the instructions call for..........
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #29 on: November 02, 2014, 10:48:10 AM »

.... however, I'm putting a 540 motor in, and when I looked at these mounts in the boat I realised two things -
Firstly, (since I'm adding the length of a UJ connector) the motor extends too far forward to allow the battery box to be mounted where it should be.
Secondly, the sloping motor mount would make it extremely difficult if not impossible to remove and replace the motor if it became necessary later.  Anyway, since I'm using a UJ I don't need a sloping mount.
Similarly, it's hard to get at the servo mount screws like this.
SO - I've decided to do my own thing with the mountings - the arrangement will be approximately like this, with everything aligned as centrally and as low as possible . The motor mount will be as near vertical as I can get it so that I can mount/remove the motor easily.
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #30 on: November 02, 2014, 11:06:22 AM »

Incidentally, I'm doing such a thorough build blog just so as to be of use for anyone else who builds one of these.
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Davenotdone

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #31 on: November 02, 2014, 06:43:27 PM »

Hi !   wait until you have your motor ready, the face of the motor mount should face head on the angle of the prop shaft if you know what i mean. Don't expect the UJ to make up for the difference in angle between a near vertical motor mount and the obvious angle of the prop shaft. the motor will just be loosing power, i like what you have done already, looks good :-))     Regards, Dave.
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #32 on: November 02, 2014, 09:13:24 PM »

Yes, Dave - I don't intend to have more than a few degrees of difference at the prop shaft join, but unless there is a little, it won't be possible to get at the motor screws, so a compromise has to be made. I'm going for something like the 5 degree cant that I put into the Huntsman that I built years ago. Anyway, nothing is going to be fixed in until everything has been tried in position and tested. Hopefully I'll get the UJ etc. early next week so I can get it sorted then. Another option might be to have the motor mounted in a box that is bolted to a fixed base, so that the whole unit can be unfastened and lifted out. O0
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #33 on: November 03, 2014, 07:19:11 AM »

Just sent for a mount (below) and I'll have this screwed or bolted to a fixed wooden plate on the bottom of the hull, angled correctly of course, so the motor is as near in line with the shaft as possible, and I will be able to unscrew the mount and lift out the motor if necessary.
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Tim_M

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #34 on: November 03, 2014, 07:56:12 AM »

Hi Graham, I'm enjoying this thread. For the motor screws, how about using Allen screws? That way you can get to them even if the motor is angled downwards (use a ball-ended wrench). Works for me!
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #35 on: November 03, 2014, 02:45:25 PM »

Hi Graham, I'm enjoying this thread. For the motor screws, how about using Allen screws? That way you can get to them even if the motor is angled downwards (use a ball-ended wrench). Works for me!

Good idea, thanks! %%
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Martin [Admin]

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #36 on: November 03, 2014, 03:21:54 PM »


Don't over tighten the screws as it's a plastic mount.
use some of your old pink nail varnish to lock the screws!   :P
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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #37 on: November 03, 2014, 03:47:00 PM »

 :-)) Martin how did you know I used pink nail vanish? looks like my secret is out,back to Lisa M a word of advice Graham don't sail it on a windy day they have quite a high superstructure , mine caught a wind side on and  capsized completely rescue boat retrieved it no damage done as they a pretty solid boat, everything dry as a bone but gave me a shock so sail on a calm day,Ray  {-) {-) {-)   
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #38 on: November 03, 2014, 04:46:22 PM »

.... don't sail it on a windy day they have quite a high superstructure , mine caught a wind side on and  capsized completely .....  {-) {-) {-)

Thanks for the heads up on that one. Luckily the lake where I sail (Bury Lido) has fairly sheltered parts where all the power guys sail, so that'll be OK.
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #39 on: November 03, 2014, 05:28:53 PM »

A quick question - When I've built up all the superstructure, I have to paint it. Now, I'm not confident that a brush application of gloss paint will end up looking so good, so I wondered... if the plywood etc. is all sealed, sanded and sealed again, can I use acrylic spray paints (i.e. car body spray such as I use on ABS bodies etc) for the upperworks? Obviously with primer, gloss then clear lacquer... Has anyone ever done this?
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Stavros

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #40 on: November 03, 2014, 08:30:39 PM »

In Answer to your question about pianting wood...YEs of course it can be done....what I personally do as it saves ANY HASSLE with reaction is to simply seal the wood with car laquer from Halfords....give it  acouple of coats le it dry then sand it give it some more....rub it ....high build primer rub it primer then top coat
 
 
Dave
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #41 on: November 03, 2014, 10:43:38 PM »

In Answer to your question about pianting wood...YEs of course it can be done....what I personally do as it saves ANY HASSLE with reaction is to simply seal the wood with car laquer from Halfords....give it  acouple of coats le it dry then sand it give it some more....rub it ....high build primer rub it primer then top coat
 
 
Dave


Same here... use a couple of coats of laquer tho as you dont want to break through the laquer coat when flatting down
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #42 on: November 04, 2014, 02:54:55 AM »


Same here... use a couple of coats of laquer tho as you dont want to break through the laquer coat when flatting down

Thanks. So, that's
1. clear lacquer spray INSTEAD of sanding sealer. (2 coats)
2. gentle sanding,
3. another lacquer coat,
4. VERY gentle rub down,
5. primer ("high-build" - that's the thicker type?),
6. gloss spray (as many coats as necessary), and
7. clear gloss lacquer again,

Have I got all that right?
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Stavros

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #43 on: November 04, 2014, 01:27:59 PM »

10/10


Dave
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #44 on: November 04, 2014, 05:28:01 PM »

Most of the bits and bobs came today. The ESC you guys recommended - nice - plus the motor mount. I've put that onto a piece of ply angled down, and used Allen screws for the motor and captive bolts with lock-nuts as shown here. Nothing is fixed in place yet, but this arrangement should be OK. Now, if the battery is mounted to the stern in that box, I wonder if that'll shift the CG too far back and make the prow come up too far... Mind you, better that way than the other way, and I suppose I could always shove a bit of ballast in to compensate if necessary.
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #45 on: November 04, 2014, 05:35:52 PM »

With the deck on, I can still get at the motor screws with an Allen key, so if I need to take the motor out, I can do, easily.
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Tim_M

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #46 on: November 04, 2014, 06:59:19 PM »

HI Graham. Just a thought. Do you need to have a 3 degree misalignment between the motor and the shaft? If you have room to raise the motor and get it in a straight line with the shaft, I would do that. Putting a deliberate angle in the coupling has two effects: you will lose a little bit of power but, perhaps more importantly, this type of coupling will not give a constant speed at the propeller if it's angle. The prop will speed up and slow down during each rev. The result is vibration. :((
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #47 on: November 04, 2014, 07:19:21 PM »

Yes, I'll get it in line. Éasy enough and now I know I can get at the screws I don't need the angle.
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Tim_M

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #48 on: November 04, 2014, 07:48:37 PM »

You won't regret it!

It's one of those horrible things I remember studying at college, back when Noah was putting the top coat on the ark. It looks right and model shops sell 'em by the dozen but a single 'Hooke's joint' simply won't work well in a drive line (a double one is better but not perfect). If you must have an angle, what you need is a constant velocity joint, like the ones on your car - assuming it's front wheel drive  {-). A totally different beast.

For me, straight lines rule  :-))

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
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Graham Smith

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Re: Krick Lisa M
« Reply #49 on: November 04, 2014, 09:27:40 PM »

You won't regret it!

It's one of those horrible things I remember studying at college, back when Noah was putting the top coat on the ark.

Oh, aye. It were me as sold 'im t'birds eye maple fer panellin' t'side of 'is bunk.

Anyway, point taken. I'll get it in line!
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