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[Butts]

I won't pretend I am knowledgeable about problems with the electronics and I think you are sensible talking to CS about your issues.
What I am more sure about is that it is not a compatibility problem with the motors.  I would be inclined to swap them though as they do sound to be suspect.  I did have a problem with pulsing 550s on one of my tugs and chose to replace them which cured the problem.  They are not expensive and to simply replace them will avoid any need to change couplings/mounts etc for different size motors.

[Shipmate60]

The motors are a bit powerful on 12 volts (about 18000 rpm).
The battery seems rather large too.
These models if using the kit props only need 545 motors (about 5000 rpm).
This will reduce the power required and give her a slightly over scale speed.


Bob

[oldiron]

As an assist, perhaps you'll find this thread of some assistance if you haven't already seen it:

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,10387.0.html

John

[Butts]

The motors are ab bit powerful on 12 volts (about 18000 rpm).
The battery seems rather large too.
These models if using the kit props only need 545 motors (about 5000 rpm).
This will reduce the power required and give her a slightly over scale speed.


Bob

I wouldn't disagree about the motors Bob, the advice to use the existing ones was based on trying to keep costs down.  Clearly it turns out there is a problem with the existing ones. I agree that a tug does not need high revving motors and the 545s do sound a sensible alternative.  I'm not sure about output shaft sizes etc?
As to the battery, if Steve has found room for it in the hull, it will provide much of the necessary ballast. I'm a big believer in using the batteries for that purpose and use very little other ballast.

[Smyster]

Cheers all, and Michael for keeping me right along the way lol.


Not sure why the board took the switch out on the Action P107 power board, should have just blown the 25A fuse, After digging out a couple of spare 20A fuses to use on the power board ran fine forward and reverse and turning port, turning starboard blew the 20A fuse twice, no more spares waiting for a delivery as cheaper than the little packs of 2 from the local garage. Starboard motor pulsed when turning on the mixer, Spoke to the Component shop and very helpful as usual so returning the board to be looked at and will source some motors from themselves, will look at the 545's thanks. The 550s do seem high revving on full throttle.
Was trying to keep the cost down but think the motors are inexpensive compared to the rest of the electrics so might as well change and see it through so hopefully get trouble free running. The electrics cost more but the 2 missing Becker rudders would have cost £50 that I dont have to buy now so saved on that.
Went for the big battery as Butts said to try and ballast the boat a bit and give a longer running time. As for the battery couldn't find any issues with mounting on the side, my old TL100R motorbikes battery was on the side, thought better to keep the center of gravity down. Hopefully some lead in the rear will balance it out when I get to ballast it, now need to buy some lead
After all this watch it sink or or capsize of its maiden voyage lol.
The link was helpful as going to have to look at waterproofing the large hatch area so something else to think on, and keep me busy


Was meant to be a cheap build as £80 ebay purchase for the part started kit but will be our work/play boat as some of the build finish wasn't brilliant on the deck that had already been constructed. A lot of fittings missing and changed for other parts so not a purists boat but 99% of people out there sailing wont know as my 8 year old son tells me. There's some fantastic neat Neddy builds on here got me rethinking and saving for another build.


Next look at will be in a few months on a deans marine ferry kit or the billing fairmount alpine which we really like the look of but plank on frame hull not sure on plastics construction over wood. Wifes gonna kill me.


Thanks Steve

[Netleyned]

Lead acid batteries are lighter at the top,
so when using it on it's side you will have to
either fit it off centre or add a bit of lead
alongside the top edge to compensate
the slight list with a central mount.
Ned

[Smyster]

Cheers Ned


Didn't realise and already glued the compartment in, looks like its a bit of lead to balance out, now know for the other boat I'm building which i did notice it more on a revell flower corvette, never knew lights on top.


Thanks Steve

[Smyster]

Hi, All


Another question that google is not throwing much light on, any advice on sealing the hatch, had already been built to Billings plans and seeing I carried on with the build guessing I'm stuck with how it is. It is a large area does this model take on much water over the deck area, is it good enough as it is just screwed down maybe a thin bit of sealant ran along the inner deck edge to make a seal when screwed down. Have read about the lift out wheel house section warping so was thinking about braces on the underneath of that part.




Thanks Steve

[Butts]

Smear Vaseline on the boat side of the hatch and then screw the hatch down.  Works fine on the hatches of my tugs.

An alternative to fastening down the hatch is to use small magnets as sold by Component Shop.  Screws work!

Some people raise the hatch off the deck, but I have not found it necessary.


Don't know the Neddie well enough to understand the second problem. Do you mean the superstructure or just the wheelhouse?  Did not think that was separate.

Michael

[JimG]

I split the large hatch in two. The front was made part of the deck and a coaming fitted that the superstructure fitted over. The rear hatch was made to screw down using 6 countersunk socket screws. As this would be rarely removed I used tape over the join and painted the tape the deck colour. Worked well until it poured during a 24 hour run and water got under the tape and lifted it. The rain was heavy enough that the water couldn't clear off the deck through the freeing ports and there was a few mm of standing water on the deck. The front coaming still kept the water out although the rear hatch did warp. After a 2 hour run when it came in to change the battery there was around two inches of water in the hull.
The deck had been covered with thin plasticard to cover up the open grained plywood provided. The original ply would have taken a lot of sealing and filler to get a smooth deck. I also made the superstructure from plasticard instead of the ply provided making the final finish easier.

Jim

[Smyster]

Thanks All


Yes Michael meant the whole superstructure part you lift out, good tip on the vaseline will go down that route as already built now, if I was starting from scratch would have thought about something else like you mention Jim, not sure I want to chop it now its built but could be an option like you mention as will rarely need access like you say, on my next model which I will purchase new will spend a lot of time thinking it through and asking questions before jumping in, hopefully wont be long just to need to pick the model, have seen 2 need to make my mind up on but best get this on the water first.


Sorted me out again Cheers

[Smyster]

Hi All


A little bit of time off as wife's had me decorating and other DIY tasks, built a bond so theres my testing ground  , also waiting for my power card to be returned from the component shop after blowing the on off switch, which landed last week.
Anyways the fault was traced to a faulty motor that was supplied with the kit so have replaced both of these with Mabuchi 555, my question is do I need to solder capacitors to the side of the cans from the pos side, seen pics of some boats with these on, if so what size do you guys use, many thanks


Steve

[Butts]

Hi Steve,

Thought you'd gone quiet .


The short answer is yes it is advisable to fit capacitors.  If you're using 2.4 ghz there is less likelihood of interference to your own boat.  You could though affect others on the pond using 27 or 40 mhz.

If you look on Component Shop they do RF kits for £1 each with instructions as to how to fit. Cornwall Model Boats also sell a similar kit.