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Author Topic: tug deck question  (Read 1332 times)

jenga

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tug deck question
« on: November 29, 2014, 11:01:11 AM »

Greetings
doing some pre-build planning for my Envoy class tug and due to poor grip and limited use of left hand (chop saw bit me) may need to open up the deck a bit for access.
I would like to plate the deck to try to use the plating to hide as much as possible the larger openings, my question is in two parts
1: What size plates would be used? 8'x4', 10'x5', 12'x6'?  other?
2: what would be the correct bonding ie end joint stagger between adjecent rows.
I guess that as a war time build the seams would be welded
just need an educated guess as what would look best
regards Jenga
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dodes

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Re: tug deck question
« Reply #1 on: December 07, 2014, 09:00:28 PM »

I would doubt very much the deck being welded with a riveted hull. As there would be too much build up of stress in the hull as riveted joins move different to welded joins. 
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derekwarner

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Re: tug deck question
« Reply #2 on: December 07, 2014, 10:06:38 PM »

jenga....welded hull construction was bought into production from 1941 to 1945 with the US built Liberty ships...however history would confirm that British hull construction during that period was still predominately riveted construction.... no need for an educated guess....just more research......Derek

http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCAQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FLiberty_ship&ei=5MeEVP_sCNPg8AXEvYH4BQ&usg=AFQjCNGYmaKoh0939sRFxUHosOBbeXYGFQ
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Derek Warner

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Neil

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Re: tug deck question
« Reply #3 on: December 08, 2014, 01:48:23 PM »

may I add my two penneth here............trawler hulls of the 30 -40's were all still being riveted, but were ground flush on the upper hull sides of boot topping so that the nets didn't snag..........I also remember going aboard a tug of that era some years ago and noticed that although the plates were riveted, they were also butted up to the next plate and not joggled or shell plated as on the hull..............so all you would see on a model is a slight indent where the plate lines are stopping and starting, with no rivet dome heads showing.
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