Model Boat Mayhem

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length.
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17   Go Down

Author Topic: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build  (Read 128825 times)

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #125 on: January 18, 2015, 10:24:31 am »

Thanks all for the comments I'm really glad you are enjoying the build  :-)   I know that I am!

David / Derek - Thanks for the advice; I'm going to give the colour a bit more thought.  I agree that on the ferries anything on the floor which is raised or generally in the way is painted yellow.  This will probably be my colour of choice I'll decide next week.

Brian - A great system and very easy to do  :-))   I did notice the windows as you have said but well spotted by you;  This is where the winch cables come out of the hull from the main winches located inside.  I think at some point I will paint the recesses black just to break them up from the green on the outside.

Shane - Great to hear that you have started you build  :-)  You probably already know but take your time shaping the bulkhead edges to take the side panels and planking.  This job took me ages to get right but you will reap your efforts ten fold when it comes to getting the shape of the hull right and also getting a good finish without too much filler - Good luck  :-))

As for me - I'm going to start the detailing on the decks.  I've winches, stairs, handrails and pipework to make just to mention a few items.  I've no doubt this will take me ages but I'll post up what I can.  If I get stuck I know where to ask  ok2  Thanks Mark

david48

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 857
  • Location: Strathdon,Aberdeenshire
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #126 on: January 18, 2015, 08:24:40 pm »

Hi Mark
We're  you going to use the pipe work up to the fire monitors as in the build book .Trying to get the bends tight out of the alli rod that's supplied did not work for me . I finished up useing styrene tube the same diameter making templates and drawing it out on paper .it was all very time consuming but the end product was good . I used the lobster back method for turning the bends , if you do not know this method to make up bends send me a PM and I will give you a ring at a time suitable to you when the where  all glued up the were water tight from out of the deck to the bottom of the spigot that the monitor pushes into . I looked at buying some off the shelf monsters but could not find any small enough .
David
Logged
Two heads are better than one sheep head  as my old plant manager used to say

Sinking Feeling

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 38
  • so many projects, so little time!
  • Location: Lincolnshire
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #127 on: February 03, 2015, 09:34:10 am »

Just read through all this, fantastic build, another model to add to my wanted list.  :-)
Logged

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #128 on: February 03, 2015, 10:09:05 am »

Thanks Sinking Feeling  :-))

The update I put up yesterday went missing in the website outage so here it is again  {-)

I have now painted the deck tie downs yellow as suggested but one of them is not sitting flush for some reason so I'll have to fettle that at a later date







I've also made a stand to take the weight off of the bilge keels but the baize is a bit thin so I have some thicker on order.  It looks ok on the boat and takes the weight nice and evenly









The floor has been shaped to fit and I am holding this in with screws so that I can remove it.  There are some nice areas underneath which will be great for hiding ballast when the time comes





Thanks for looking - Mark

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #129 on: February 03, 2015, 10:19:01 am »

Top tip time for when it comes to the dreaded SOLDERING  {:-{ {:-{ {:-{ %% %% %%

I have read on the forum that soldering seems to be an issue for some builders especially when it comes to very small and tricky parts so here is my technique

Firstly place the parts in position on a saucer exactly where you want them.  The wire in this picture is 1mm brass wire on a very small saucer  {-)   The put a little bit of acidic flux onto the joint and a tiny piece of solder right next to it so that its touching very lightly




Then apply some heat using one of those cheap pencil butane gas torches.  You do not actually need to blast the heat onto the part as this will cause it t move.  Just gently move it around the area - and after a few second the solder will melt and run into the place where you put the flux



Here are the parts on my assembled anchor winch which is now ready for painting - Drilling the 1mm holes was a bit tricky  >>:-(



I hope that this has helped someone - Mark

Brian60

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3,316
  • Location: Hull,UK-but currently residing in Los Martinez, Spain.
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #130 on: February 03, 2015, 06:10:49 pm »

Mark you will get a better join if you use solder paste. But the parts to be joined need to be a really close fit, no good just trimming them off with snippers. The joins have to be filed to close fit before using the paste.

These brass parts on my build were done with solder paste, see how cleaner they are, not so much excess solder to file away.

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #131 on: February 03, 2015, 06:30:15 pm »

Now that looks like a nice clean job - I'll get some of that too cheers Brian  :-))

bfgstew

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 502
  • Comfortably Numb
  • Location: Retford (Robin Hood Country)
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #132 on: February 09, 2015, 01:55:56 am »

Mark, this has been a very informative build log, thank you very much for the in-depth detail of your progress.
I have wanted to build the Billings Smitt Rotterdam but have been put off by the 'quality' of the kit and the lack of proper instructions, now the Alpine is a different kettle of fish! Top quality kit, informative instructions, and in the end an impressive looking workhorse. The Alpine is now on my wishlist, and at 260 a bargain!!!!
I have 3 scratch builds on the go (Saturn steam tug, Riva Lamborghini Aquarama and Granit AHTS) so I can drop onto this when I hit snags on those...........!!!!!!
Logged
"Give me a ping Vasili. One ping only, please"

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #133 on: February 09, 2015, 11:40:46 am »

Hi bfgstew - Yep this is a good kit.  The parts all seem to fit nicely and it comes with most of the fittings too.  The instructions are just a few pages of pictures there is no narrative with them but they are easy to follow.


I'm currently putting in the electronics which is new territory for me but fortunately I'm getting some great help from another member of the forum who keeps on putting me straight  :-))   I'll have another update in a couple of weeks

Shanew79

  • Shipmate
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 18
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #134 on: February 11, 2015, 08:34:54 am »

Still doing a great job Mark, Keep the pictures coming it's a great help!!! :-))

Shane
Logged

Vts99

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 114
  • Clydebuilt = best built
  • Location: Lanark
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #135 on: February 14, 2015, 11:48:56 am »

I've just started my build and glad I found this build as its very informative and the tips are great especially the rear deck and rear thruster as I could see this was gonna be a head scratcher ;)

Keep up the good work
Logged

david48

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 857
  • Location: Strathdon,Aberdeenshire
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #136 on: February 14, 2015, 01:01:41 pm »

Hello Vts99
Have you checked out the stanchions yet if thy are alli/White metal ,and you want to change them to brass I might have enough left off my build . If there is not a photo etching company in Lochgilhead could still have my art work on file ,that's where I had mine done.
David
Logged
Two heads are better than one sheep head  as my old plant manager used to say

Vts99

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 114
  • Clydebuilt = best built
  • Location: Lanark
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #137 on: February 14, 2015, 01:20:07 pm »

Mine are Ali just checked them , how much was it for brass ones to get done as I'd prefer that as this is my first big build , my last was a graupner Weser and majority of it was plastic railings so 2mins with some super glue and they were done ;)

Graeme
Logged

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #138 on: February 14, 2015, 01:36:43 pm »

I've just started my build and glad I found this build as its very informative and the tips are great especially the rear deck and rear thruster as I could see this was gonna be a head scratcher ;)

Keep up the good work


Good luck with your build Vts99  :-))

Vts99

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 114
  • Clydebuilt = best built
  • Location: Lanark
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #139 on: February 14, 2015, 01:42:51 pm »

Cheers a think I'll need it 😆 but at least it's better than the graupner kit cos the way they word everything becomes double Dutch by the time u finish the sentance plus no pics at all which makes for an exciting build

Graeme
Logged

david48

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 857
  • Location: Strathdon,Aberdeenshire
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #140 on: February 14, 2015, 06:14:18 pm »

Vts99
Have a count up and let me know how many you thing you might need plus a few for errors ,there is a picture of the ones I had done you will have to do a search for a A4 sheet it was about 45.00 I think let me know there are some left .
David
Logged
Two heads are better than one sheep head  as my old plant manager used to say

Peter_s

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 102
  • uh oh here we go
  • Location: Flintshire/Cheshire border
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #141 on: February 14, 2015, 09:17:53 pm »

Amazing build :-))


Think I might try this next O0 O0
Logged
Now where did I put that?

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #142 on: February 15, 2015, 04:06:53 pm »

Thanks Peter  :-))

Just a bit of an update as I've been concentrating on the electrics which are taking a lot longer that I had ever imagined  >>:-(

Anyway first up I have painted and installed the anchor winch which has come out ok, and I have also modified my stand to have 6mm of baize for protection and its a nice snug fit now  :-)





Now for the start of the electronics, the inline fuse holders have been installed and the P94 mixer has been placed in the hull.  Its simply held down with velcro for easy removal.  The wiring on this unit is very heavy duty which gives more than a hint of the sort of amps that it can handle



I then installed the main P107 distribution board and next to it is a P103 parallel board which is connected via wires around the back





I had to extend the wires from the P94 to the distribution board so I used some 3.5mm shovel type connectors to ensure a good connection



These joints were then heat shrinked and the wires braided before being routed up the DB.  I have also routed my BEC wire to the rear of the boat which is where the receiver will be





Thats it for now until more wire arrives from the component shop  {-)   I can't believe how much I'm using!

Thanks for looking - Mark

david48

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 857
  • Location: Strathdon,Aberdeenshire
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #143 on: February 15, 2015, 05:06:24 pm »

Hi Mark
As usual things are looking good , I managed to get some more paint on the winches at the start of last week . The order came from Comp Shop on Sat morning so will start to shoehorn the stern thruster controler in ,trying to keep the wiring tidy is really hard . I'll try and post pictures when I am happy with the out come .
David
Logged
Two heads are better than one sheep head  as my old plant manager used to say

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #144 on: February 15, 2015, 05:14:44 pm »

Good luck David and you are right it is difficult to keep it tidy which is why its taking me so long.  I've still got a P93 controller for my bow thruster and a P91 for the lights and fire monitors to install.  Oh and a water pump  {-)

bobhall

  • Shipmate
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 14
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Australia
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #145 on: February 23, 2015, 08:36:45 am »


Only a guess but vehicles travel on solid ground and without a differential between the wheels that axle would effectively seize up.  Trains have a similar problem which is cured with tapered wheels to stop them locking onto the tracks around corners.  Ships/boats would not have this issue but this is only my meandering thoughts!
Hi Mark, I'm new to the Forum and to model building.  Like yourself I am starting with Fairmount Alpine, although I have built two full size wood/glass boats in the past so have some idea how things go together.  Was also in the Royal Australian Navy for 22yrs and a ship pilot for another 24yrs so have an idea what ships should look like. I have enjoyed your contribution and am very impressed with your model thus far.  You have set the bar very high for those of us who follow.  On the matter of rudder angles, it is important for twin screw vessels, particularly wide multihulls, when turning that the rudder angle relates to the turn radius for each rudder.  Therefore the inboard rudder will have a greater angle than the outboard rudder during the turn.  If you look at off the beach catamarans this is achieved by the tillers being slightly angled in, the amount depending on the beam length ratio of the boat, and joined by a cross bar. This automatically ensures the inboard rudder is at a greater angle than the outboard rudder during the turn. If both rudders turn the same amount there will be greater resistance through the water and the vessel will slow and engines will be loaded up, and increased cavitation and vibration will occur.  It is particularly important on sailing catamarans when tacking that the rudders are set up correctly.  Having said all that I don't know whether the propellers are far enough apart on the Fairmount Alpine model to cause any problems. Thanks again for your very informative posts. Bob
Logged

david48

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 857
  • Location: Strathdon,Aberdeenshire
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #146 on: February 23, 2015, 09:05:15 am »

Hi bobhall
I am also building Fairmount Alpine ,rudder angle has come up before and my take on it is that the the inboard props slows down to compensate ,this is using a Action P94 ESC ,search Billings Fairmount Alpine wiring diagram .I have set my rudder angle at 35 any thing more acts as a brake as I was told ,rightly or wrongly.
I have been on with my build for over two years ,it's a fair take on .
David .
Logged
Two heads are better than one sheep head  as my old plant manager used to say

Mark T

  • Full Mayhemer
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1,550
  • Location: Dudley in the Black Country
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #147 on: February 23, 2015, 09:29:27 am »

Hi Bob welcome to the forum  :-))   Australia seems to be a very popular country here I wish we had your weather  %%

You are correct about the rudders and it was my inexperience that made me set them up the way that i have.  If you have a look though the tillers are set at slight angles and the point where the arms fix onto the servo disc is off centre so does not give a linear movement.  This solution was thankfully given to me by another forum member and does make the rudders move more like they should.

As David has also already said this is combined with the use of an ACTion P94 electronic mixer.  This unit powers both motors and also controls the rudders.  When driving forward - If you command port on the transmitter, the mixer will turn the rudders proportionally to your input on the stick and also slow down the port motor and increase the rpm on the starboard motor.  I'll soon find out if it all works when it eventually hits the water  :o    Hey and get me with all the nautical terms - I've been on the forum too long  {-)

Good luck with your build and if I can help just ask  :-))

bobhall

  • Shipmate
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 14
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Australia
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #148 on: February 23, 2015, 10:50:45 am »

Hi Bob welcome to the forum  :-))   Australia seems to be a very popular country here I wish we had your weather  %%

You are correct about the rudders and it was my inexperience that made me set them up the way that i have.  If you have a look though the tillers are set at slight angles and the point where the arms fix onto the servo disc is off centre so does not give a linear movement.  This solution was thankfully given to me by another forum member and does make the rudders move more like they should.

As David has also already said this is combined with the use of an ACTion P94 electronic mixer.  This unit powers both motors and also controls the rudders.  When driving forward - If you command port on the transmitter, the mixer will turn the rudders proportionally to your input on the stick and also slow down the port motor and increase the rpm on the starboard motor.  I'll soon find out if it all works when it eventually hits the water  :o    Hey and get me with all the nautical terms - I've been on the forum too long  {-)

Good luck with your build and if I can help just ask  :-))
Thanks for your welcome Mark.  We are expecting 41 degrees C tomorrow with a 40% chance of rain - not that pleasant I'm afraid.  Slowing down the inboard motor will definitely help the turn and it seems like you have managed to get the rudders doing the right thing.  In the real world 35 degrees is the maximum angle for a standard or balanced rudder.  Flap rudders which have one or more vertical sections, rather like the wing on an aircraft when landing, can use angles around 70 degrees. The use of these higher angles is normally limited to a maximum of 5 kts of headway and is particularly useful when berthing and unberthing the vessel when hemmed in at the berth.  I have started the superstructure and am about to start glueing the panels on the hull.  Your advice has been very useful and I am sure will help me save time and mistakes. I started work on the model around 12th Feb and have been able to make good progress, being retired.  Like you I'm starting inside the house but I'm not sure how long this will continue!! Keep up the good work.  You have plenty of fans it seems. Bob
Logged

bobhall

  • Shipmate
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 14
  • Model Boat Mayhem is Great!
  • Location: Australia
Re: Billings Fairmount Alpine Build
« Reply #149 on: February 24, 2015, 02:24:07 am »

Hi bobhall
I am also building Fairmount Alpine ,rudder angle has come up before and my take on it is that the the inboard props slows down to compensate ,this is using a Action P94 ESC ,search Billings Fairmount Alpine wiring diagram .I have set my rudder angle at 35 any thing more acts as a brake as I was told ,rightly or wrongly.
I have been on with my build for over two years ,it's a fair take on .
David .
Hi David,
I have enjoyed reading your input to Mark and others.  I hadn't realised one could program the inboard engine to slow down in a turn.  On ships that is achieved by manual intervention however with ships becoming more computerised this will no doubt change in the future.  You are right about 35 degrees max rudder angle for standard and balanced rudders.  I'm sure there is a lot more to the build than one realises.  The hull is probably the quick part. There seems to be a great deal of detail on the superstructure. I consider myself fortunate to have yourself and other builders leading the way and providing excellent advice.  Bob
Logged
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 [6] 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17   Go Up