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[Mike R]

Good Afternoon All
I have recently re-kindled my interest in model boating and retrieved from the cupboard my model boat from many years ago, I started building it when I was 17ish, I am now soon to be 54, it was in a sorry state but is slowly returning to some order. I am sticking with the 12 volt motor and mechanical speed controller until funds allow me to upgrade to 2.4GHz and an ESC.

The boat is a Fairey Huntsman by the way. Now to my question, when I tried the motor it all turned but there was a loud squeak which is not surprising as it hasn't been used for 20 odd years, so how can I grease into the shaft and tube as it all seems to be fixed solid in the keel, sorry for a long post but it helps to set the scene
Looking forward to some replies 

[U-33]

Favourite way is to undo the screws or whatever to loosen off the coupling between the motor and coupling, slide the shaft out from the propellor end, very gentle application of a touch of wet n' dry to remove any rust and accumulated grunge, oil the shaft, slide it back in (adding a drop or two of oil as you go) tighten up the coupling, and that's it. Don't forget a drop or two of oil around the coupling as well...simples.


Rich

[Mike R]

Hi All
Thanks for the reply Rich, I have removed the shaft and removed the c**p and rust etc and it now moves freely in the tube. Before I put everything back together is it worth packing the end of the tube with some waterproof grease and oil on the shaft, or just using three in one on the shaft?
Anybody have any views on this?

[U-33]

Go steady if using grease, it can solidify and cause problems. I just add a drop or two of 3 in 1 oil through a tube every session to my boats, seems to work for me, but everybody has their own ideas.


Rich

[BarryM]

I have used ordinary water-resistant bearing grease for decades without problem. It occurs to me that if you have to top up the tube with oil every trip then that oil is either leaking into the hull resulting in mess or leaking out the tube into the lake water which is also a no-no.

It has been suggested that grease provides more drag on the shaft than oil but I would suggest the difference is microscopic - if any - and not worth bothering about. 

Inject the grease into the tube, put one finger over the opposite end to which you are introducing the shaft and slowly insert the latter. The idea is to release air from the tube while retaining most of the grease.

Regards,

Barry M

[tugmad]

I have used ordinary water-resistant bearing grease for decades without problem. It occurs to me that if you have to top up the tube with oil every trip then that oil is either leaking into the hull resulting in mess or leaking out the tube into the lake water which is also a no-no.

It has been suggested that grease provides more drag on the shaft than oil but I would suggest the difference is microscopic - if any - and not worth bothering about. 

Inject the grease into the tube, put one finger over the opposite end to which you are introducing the shaft and slowly insert the latter. The idea is to release air from the tube while retaining most of the grease.

Regards,

Hello BarryM I quite agree with you as I have been using this method in all my tug builds for years and never had any problems.  Geo

Barry M

[davidm1945]

Yep, I do this on my RTTL - 2 shafts - no probs...

[canabus]

Hi
First all a nice cruiser boat.
Cheap bits look at Hobbyking.
I am stepping thru a cheap upgrade as money is available.
If you require a battery go for a 3S(11.1volt) Lipo battery around the 5800mah range and a higher C rating.
I use a Lipo/NiCad/lead battery charger(DO NOT LEAVE LIPO BATTERIES CHARGING UNATTENDED AND USE A LIPO SAFETY BAG).
This with run you 12v motor for a start.
Hobbyking have a brush motor ESC (forward and reverse).
Radio TGY-I6 AFHDS 6 channel radio(servo additional) to transmitter can support up to 20 models)so all you have to get is more receivers.
They version 2 receivers support temp/revs and voltage sensors, so you can kept an eye on  prop loading on you motor and ESC.
Props  a very good range (I buy the cheap plastic ones to test with and upgrade to metal ones later).
Brushless motors the KV is revs per volt(3S(11.1volts) on a D3548/4 1100kv 910watt is about 12,210rpm on a 40mm x 1'4 pitch prop.
That will not over load the motor or ESC(60A recommend ).
About 750 watts equals one Horsepower, so 910watts would give you a very quick cruiser.
I am running a 5800mah 40C battery and getting about a hour run time.
Going brushless motor you will have to change to a brushless ESC.
Brushless motor to ESC connection tip, centre lead to centre lead and cross over the other two to get the prop going the right way to start with(a bit Irish but it works).