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Author Topic: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180  (Read 44864 times)

warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #25 on: April 12, 2016, 06:47:31 PM »

I built this model many years ago - I seem to remember it had an awful lot of plastic above the waterline - please post photos of how you make this work.

Apologies for the delay, but here is how Sovereign was controlled - in this Victory, the motor, sail board and control gear is different again, depending on whether the test on the motor works out as planned or not will determine if a motor is being fitted - if so then the rudder will be better placed or different if not fitted - still undecided yet. 
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #26 on: April 12, 2016, 08:03:41 PM »

Here is the Marines construction - using the cannons from Sovereign (and now Victory - as when under sail they are usually behind the doors - and the only visable guns are those that are those supplied with carriages and therefore will have crew  :} ) I constructed the marines in exactly the same way even for Nelson and the other officers and minions, that the gun (parts 201-240) and first cut some 3/64" styrene rod or thereabouts, one at 4.5mm long (usually the right leg, and one 7-8mm long (usually the left leg), why longer, so that the extra bit can be fitted into the hole in the deck (may be cut off later if being used where he is not fitted that way), it also allows the item to be inserted as seen earlier into a piece of card to stand them upright (two small slices in a cross formation into a cereal box thick card strip the poked through with a cocktail stick).

They are they glued together either as in the marines right next to each other or separated so to simulate walking, I have bent them in the past for a figure scrubbing the deck on his hands and knees  :D. though with styrene I will need to cut them and glue them in situe. so now we have the legs.
 then once dry we glue the body to the top of the legs, either vertical or various angles to simulate a slight bent over, or so they look vertical when walking or in this crew, cutting the lower part to simulate a better looking bending or climbing  %).

The arms are done in exactly the same way as the legs from a thinner gauge rod, though bending them is more difficult as it tends to break with this old stuff I have, they are cut into 4mm each, if the gun is being done I didn't see the point in making a separate arm to sit behind the gun, but on reflection should have, I might still do so, prior to them boarding ship but it will be time consuming.

The hat for the marines is just a 1mm long piece of 3/64" rod placed front to back and central - well almost, and for the officer a longer piece to go over the dia of the cannon face with a small piece of arm sat on top of that to try and recreate the cornered hat, for the officers hat the same is done but turned shoulder to shoulder 90, the sword and the sheath are lengths of the thinner rod, as is the telescope, the buckets carried by the little uns, is actually the bottom cut off part of the bodies, since they have short bodies than the crew, these simple pieces of rod don't half make the vessel look alive.

Paint, red 19 for tunics, 85 black for hair, hats, boots and guns, silver for the sword flesh 31 for faces, hands, arms, legs and bodies, white 22 for the sailors clothes and the wigs, and with extreme difficulty the cross banding on the marines tunics. Paint brush - cocktail sticks, act as a stirrer as well as the brush  :}
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ballastanksian

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #27 on: April 12, 2016, 08:13:47 PM »

Simple enought to recreate!
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petesubman

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #28 on: April 16, 2016, 01:41:25 PM »

Hi warspite, here's  a not very good pic of sophies starboard side with the flesh colour  test and original ochre paint scheme, regards  pete
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #29 on: April 16, 2016, 02:08:03 PM »

In your opinion which do you prefer?, Ocre or flesh, I'm split between both, i.e. I prefer a colour that would be not as brash as the ocre but not as close to the idea of flesh - to pinky for my taste.

Looking at the close ups of the original Victory the colour is not that bad, but how does that translate to scale colours from revell or humbrol, I am leaning towards doing the same as the original colour, that is until someone puts the new colour scheme next to it and its a better look then i'll change it.
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #30 on: April 16, 2016, 02:26:52 PM »

here is the latest update - the sails, just need to mark them out and wash the petro wax coating off them, that will be the next update, the colour matt 74 is a close match to this next picture and that is what the instructions say paint her above the water line - that I know I didn't like when I did it on sovereign - so changed it to XF-4 yellow green, so will nip out and have a look at what else is available.
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #31 on: April 16, 2016, 02:28:15 PM »

well that didn't go according to plan, it's lighter than 'paint' showed it  >:-o
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #32 on: April 19, 2016, 07:36:48 PM »

Update, On Sunday I constructed 90% of the Bowsprite, just the two spars to fit and a clean up before I can photo it, then it needs painting and rigging (well before then getting the angle and the support fitted (see sovereigns arrangement at the top of this page), again its in brass to take the knocks, its also in smaller diameter tube and more - model accurate, i.e. its been made to look like the plastic version.

Spent some of the weekend, cutting, washing sails and doing shrouds, still I did cover the rear of the bottom gun ports - then realised I should have fitted the doors first and then cover them, like I did with sovereign - doh.

Most of the time was spent cleaning out some of the loft and searching all of it for bits and pieces, namely I used to have a Humbrol paint gun, but must have thrown it away, so will have to wait a few months to get a new one, so will have to buy a couple of rattle cans to prime the outside once the stability and balance test is done, also get a good quality multi-tool - have you ever used a vastly oversized drill (Bosch with that special chuck that only excepts SD drill bits) for doing holes through walls with a multi-tool grinding disk to cut 1.2mm dia. brass tube etc., hairy and difficult to do without a vice.
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ballastanksian

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #33 on: April 19, 2016, 08:23:19 PM »

Have another look. I couldn't find three moulds thismorning until I looked again and they just showed up {:-{

The Gremlins have loads of fun moving stuff anf disguising things <*<
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #34 on: April 22, 2016, 06:30:27 PM »

I know, but I know the thing was just a wreck last time I had it, and was hoping to resurrect it, just have to see what the badger is in the local model shop when I go and look at paint.
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #35 on: April 22, 2016, 08:21:20 PM »

Okay the long awaited update - if anyones bothered (loads of views no comments but from a couple of interest parties !!!???)

I have finished the construction of the Bowsprite - in brass - and other than a little mistake its almost identical to the plastic version, I have a small dremel which is rechargeable - yea - its charge dissappates after about 3 minutes, so have to swap for a small reachargeable drill which runs at about a third of the speed to be any use, my other two drills are a spare and is as old as the hills and a Bosch - suitable for construction hole drilling - scary.

Cleaning the brass of solder etc is a pain and panel wipe will have to be bought before I apply any paint, when I get that as well.

the gun deck has also been modified to take the bowsprite, I just have to adjust the hull to accept the modified gun deck.

Here's the piccies.
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #36 on: April 22, 2016, 08:27:05 PM »

I am on the last two shrouds and they should be finished soon, then during the weekend, I will be mainly washing the sails to get the wax out of them, I can then start to modify the guns to be detailed up a jig made and start thinking of either drilling the decks for them and the sailors or apply the deck finish as detailed in the soliel thread, I love the effect that was created and I am going to have a go  :-)).
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #37 on: April 22, 2016, 10:06:41 PM »

Oops, the jack staff is in the wrong place - oh well i'll fix it tomorrow  >:-o
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #38 on: April 23, 2016, 01:37:56 PM »

Well been out this morning and bought the 'Ocre' that I believe closely matches that on Victory from unbuiltnautilis's very informative photos on the other thread, more of the deeper orangey part of a daffodil, of in the case of the photo's below the colour of a stock pencil, but then when you get to the shop there is no Ocre - or what is purporting to be Ocre is actual a dark orange like a Satsuma, even the Ocre in military figurine acrylics is tepid and Tamiya xf-4 is a closer match to that, so I got Humbrol's Matt 24 - signal yellow I think it said on the stand, the photo's shows it in direct sunshine (what the hell is that - surprise surprise its sunny) and the next is inside on the desk - though not exactly perfect I am happier with it - just have to learn how to thin it down for the airbrush.

Now I know its a cheap and nasty airbrush, but for the amount of spraying I do, it will be adequate, most of the painting I have been doing is with either a cheap and nasty kiddies water paints set of brushes, not used the Humbrol president brushes or those from the kit yet, or cocktail sticks and a bit of thin styrene rod, just have to see if I can connect it to my compressor.
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petesubman

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #39 on: April 23, 2016, 02:04:23 PM »

Warspite im sure it will look the part, after all its your boat, i found when spraying that lots of thin coats are better any runs you get the thinners will evaporate , just remember  to the gun moving  i usually have practice on something before getting serious, regards  pete
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #40 on: April 23, 2016, 02:11:13 PM »

My previous boss was a professional industrial sprayer, and he gave me a few pointers in the past when I expressed an intrest in spraying for the company incase any one was off or on site, never had a go but did try rattle can on a seahawk kit, that came out ok, though the plastic was grey anyway.

Result - my son has just handed me his artwork pastels - that he apparently doesn't like using and doesn't need for his GCSE art any more, vintage pine and ash effect to follow (he said hopefully), whilst in hobbycraft, they wanted 60p per stick of pastel, and even then not a great selection considering the size of the store, good job I decided to find out what colours I needed first.
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #41 on: April 23, 2016, 02:21:18 PM »

Result No.2 - my old Micon compressor still works and the Humbrol airbrush connector fits like a glove.
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #42 on: April 23, 2016, 04:08:53 PM »

Well fixed the Bowsprite, I have panel wiped it and as I was doing it, low and behold it started threatening to rain, must have jinxed it before when I said it was sunny, next it will be snowing  >:-o.

Best place to store panel wipe, loft no, kitchen definite no, outside in the rain no, outside in the outside bike cabin - uuurrrghhh, archnids home yes.
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #43 on: April 23, 2016, 05:52:21 PM »

Some detail on the rear of the Bowsprite, though not perfect, it will not be to KPNUTS standard or stan or any of the other absolutely astounding modellers on this site (brownie points collecting  %))
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #44 on: April 23, 2016, 06:41:54 PM »

And with some primer on it - the detail isn't as bad as I first thought it might be, but it was an experiment, will be taking the thread wrapping off and replacing it with plasticard as that will look neater
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #45 on: April 23, 2016, 07:23:48 PM »

 :-), so here it is with the steel bands, its drying now after being primed, doesn't look to bad, is there an easy way to take the contents of a Humbrol small can and mix them efficiently before adding the thinner to get the consistency required for spraying?
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #46 on: April 24, 2016, 11:28:37 AM »

In he words of Mr Williams from the fast show - today I will be mainly adding the rain water shrouds over the gun ports, I will post a pic of the bowsprite and the work done in due course   :D
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #47 on: April 24, 2016, 01:46:41 PM »

As my eyes re-adjust to normal vision, here are the latest updates, all the rain / water shrouds are above the know gun ports, some are protected by rails of architrave (looks like a picture rail profile we had in our front room many years ago) or the ratline fixing rails to the shrouds or are just too close to the top of the ship for it to matter (if I've missed any - please let me know now as I am planning on painting soon - Kudos to unbuiltnautilis's photos - note that nearly all photo's of Victory I have looked as recently never show two areas of the ship in great enough detail, the end of the bowspite forward of the main spar i.e. the jack pole and forward of it, and the other is the area between the mizzen mast and main mast where the two ratline shrouds are around where the steps to the main deck would be, I can't figure out where the boom would be slung from, it's pivot is at the end of the outside platform where the steps up the side are and it ends just after the start of the rear outer platform, but nothing between).

Also as promised the painted bowsprite (or should that be bow sprit - a few sites have it as this).

will have to check the painting section to see how others mix the small cans efficiently as no suggestions yet on here.

PPS. still impressed with the quality of this kit compared to the previous, it does have some issues but they are not as bad and can be overcome with a bit of knife work, you can tell that the mould is suffering and some warping and pitting has occurred in the mould, would love to have got a prestine kit from years ago, surprised there are only two boats for the deck, in the painting Fall of Nelson, it shows at least 4 of the 5 that would be stowed there, though according to one site, to protect against splitters and damage to crew when in action, they would have cleared for action and put them overboard and had them towed behind.
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warspite

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #48 on: April 24, 2016, 10:24:52 PM »

Okay last update for today (what do you mean yeaaaa  >:-o)

I managed between spells of rain to spray with Tamiya matt white the deck and inside the hull, inside to make it lighter and easier to see, will need a few coats but will see how that goes later. as suggested it's patchy just need to decide what pastels are needed to get the upper deck colours right, for the gun deck I have to paint the deck with the Matt 24 and then attempt to create that vintage pine effect, deep joy.

This is the ships boats first coat, Humbrol 10 is gloss so using it as an undercoat, it went on patchy anyway so needs a coat of a matt brown paint or just may leave it gloss, the white is Humbrol 22 and is the first coat, so again is patchy, even with panel wipe its not going on well, so the kits got issues with reacting with paint, hopefully not that bad it just seems to be the odd sprue set.

The guns are painted in matt black (that big tin is gonna have to be thrown - need some fresh), the carriages are part painted with the fixing hole drilled so once they have been painted the guns can be fitted and detailing can begin  :D. Until the decks have been painted I cannot fit the guns or build the crew by drilling the needed holes and finishing the detailing, though I have to do the buoyancy test before that - so many things to do what order to do them in, grrr.

these last pictures are of the main and foremasts, I have sewn a hook to where the spar would be fitted (these hooks are used in the waist band of trousers and skirts above the zip where the clasp has failed, on the main mast I have used one of the mating parts to act as the way of moving the sails, by running the thread through the eyelets down to the deck each end of the thread passes either side of the mast, it will become more apparent later, the foremast only needs the hook as the main and fore spars will be operated from the foremast, just have to figure how to rotate the spars using a standard servo with a limited internal width (75-80mm max at the widest point), a sail winch with 1.5 turns would be ideal so may get one - at 49g its also quite light, the only issue is it slipping the thread and then the whole boats a sit on the bench for life as access in is restricted, a sail arm on the other hand might be better, again access is tight if not none existant if the servo if placed too far from the rear, I will try and draw a sketch of what I am describing.

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ballastanksian

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Re: Attempt number two for an Airfix Victory at 1:180
« Reply #49 on: April 25, 2016, 10:32:09 PM »

Sorry to have been away! I like the bowsprit, your soldering isn't bad at all. If all the brass was clean and relativly grease free then it should not have been a problem. My issue is to solder,and then decide to add just a small bit more solder which then becomes too much that needs lots of effort to remove >>:-(

I reccomend Fluxite as it seems to make the solder more controllable and isn't corrosive.

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