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[dreadnought72]

Hello All!

If anyone has this book (I can't afford it at nearly £100!  ) is there any chance of a scan or high quality digital photo of the above ship's profile and elevation drawing that's in it?

Many thanks,

Andy

[ballastanksian]

I did not know about this book otherwise I might have kept an eye out for it second hand (assuming £100 isn't the second hand price) when planning my M class build. What scale are you building her to?

[dreadnought72]

Around £100 IS the second hand price. 

Though I live in hope (like Burt's Battleships of the First World War) the bottom will fall out of the market when/if a new edition is printed.

Building it? (I never admitted to that!)

<admits>...I'd like to squeeze it down to 1/96th if possible, without cheating.

Andy

[hmsantrim]

Hi Andy.
 why dont you try here, boat was built in Fairfields.
 
 http://www.glasgowlife.org.uk/libraries/the-mitchell-library/archives/collections/shipbuilding-archives/pages/default.aspx
 
Frank

[ballastanksian]

Er, yes, that is a big investment. I would say invest in it now and then sell it on after the build but knowing my luck, it would either get covered in glue, the bottom would indeed fall out causing negative 'booquity', or worse still, the My Precious would kick in and I would not want to part with it not never.

Assuming you did build it , Would you make the hull from GRP or plank on frame?

[joppyuk1]

Can I suggest an interlibrary loan request at your local branch. Far cheaper than buying, time to copy the bits you want, and supporting a service that's under threat.

[dreadnought72]

Hi Frank...many years ago I did a TV shoot at the Glasgow archives, and - during a break - found myself next to the photographic records of HMS Hood. The pictures are awesome: stuff that has probably never made it into print. The Mitchell is probably worth a trek for the book in question, though their online catalogue is not great. Luckily it's forty minutes away.

As to building one, I think solid helium is the material of choice: displacement would only be about 2lbs. That said, having seen Picketboat's Picket Boat (it's tiny and yet works) I think it's do-able in balsa/tissue.

OK, got to get my research-pencil sharpened.

Andy

[Paxton]

I have the book.  I'll drag it out and have a look.  PM me with your email address and I'll send the scans along.  I think it's a fold out so it might be in two or three parts.

[dreadnought72]

Woohoo!

Thanks Paxton. PM sent.

Andy

[dreadnought72]

Thanks VERY MUCH for the scans, Paxton.

I'm off to start re-drawing. 

Andy

[Paxton]

Glad to help Andy.  Enjoy!

[ballastanksian]

Hi Mr Paxton, can I be the cheekiest monkey on the forum and ask for a scan as well? I can ply you with compliments and much fawning if that helps:O)

More than anything, it will be useful to get some elements checked out on my build.

Time to stop hogging Andy's thread........

[Paxton]

No problem.  Just PM me with your e-mail address (haven't figured out if I can attach things to the Mayhem PM mails).  As I advised Andy, the drawing crosses two pages in a very large book so some of the midships detail is lost in the crease.  I couldn't flatten the book enough without breaking the spine.

Cheers

Don

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Sometimes  members email addresses are in their Profiles.  You may be able to email and send pictures direct.

Hope this helps

ken

[mudway]

Wasn't Mary Rose a sister ship? If so, Dave Metcalf  had the old Sambrook plans which are apparently now held by Tony Green Steam Models.

[ballastanksian]

She was but I am not sure if she was built by the same yard. There were several variations within the class. Taa for the information!

[dreadnought72]

An update: with the scans I've got, and access to loads of photos online, I've been busy drawing plans at 1/96th scale. They threw me a bit at first, but once I realised that the frames are 1.75 feet apart, it's all fallen into place. 

I love the look (and it would be awesome alongside 1/96th scale capital ships & cruisers) but it's tiny at this size: the beam's about 3.5 inches, draft is 1.125 inches, length about 34 inches.

And therefore...questions to Those In The Know from a helpless newbie to brushless motors:

1/ Brushless seems to be the way to go. There are three shafts. I could squeeze in three of these, just about. Turnigy Multistar 2216-800kV. That'd be ~6000 RPM on a 2s cell? About right?

2/ Do brushless motors mind being driven in reverse full time? (One prop will be other-handed).

3/ I'd need three speed controllers. Are these suitable? HobbyKing 30A Boat ESC 3A UBEC.

4/ A 5000mAh 2s LiPo battery is about the biggest I can fit in (weight is the issue, and these are ~280g). What sort of run time would this give me? The motors are 10A max current (the data states "10s" does that mean ten seconds?) but I don't know what more mundane steaming would be, amp-wise. Assuming a couple of amp each, that'd suggest 50 minutes. Is LiPo preferable in this setup?

Any advice to the clueless would be much appreciated.

Andy

[mudway]

I'd just stick with 1 brushed motor in the centre and leave the other 2 shafts as non working. Less motor and battery weight to carry.
In the water, she would only displace about 1.6 lbs.

[ballastanksian]

I am going for three 610 brushed motors (I believe these are the two ended equivalent of a 310 motor) and am considering a P94 mixer from Action run off a 3300mah NIMH battery with 4.8 volts for the speed controller element.

HMS Ready is a bit bigger than true scale, so a bit of extra weight will help the extra potential bouyancy.

I am sure that some of what I have gibbered above will be wrong, but from what I have read/seen, it seems right.

[PICKETBOAT]

Andy


My experience with long slim shallow draught models of small size shows it can be done. A lot can depend on the size (and weight) of the superstructure, which will affect stability particularly on a windy day.


I have no experience with brushless motors but you should be able to find 3 small inexpensive very small brushed motors which would suit the model.


Weight is critical and every effort should be made to shave grams off the top weight and shift as much weight down to the hull floor. Choose your modelling materials carefully.
 
A model like this will present little water resistance and you will be surprised how little motor power is needed to push it along at a scale speed. If you are a "speed fiend" and you want the model to stand up on it's props ,well that's different. 


Good luck with the build.   

[ballastanksian]

Amen. It is lucky that she is still in the era of light superstructure and fittings only. It will help keep top weight down.

[Brian60]

Any book by Edgar J Marsh is worth having, his insight into how ships were built is quite amazing. I paid £55 for his sailing trawlers book, I have seen it for sale at over £300, so any investment you make then you are almost certain to get it back on resale!

All measurements in his books are undertaken by himself as far as I know, getting into the ships with a tape measure, during his off duty times while serving in the navy.

[Sandy]

Hi,
 
I put a brushless motor in my 48th scale HMS Gloxinia, a Flower class corvette.
 
Nowhere near as weight or space limited as yours.
 
There was much headshaking about a speedy motor in a scale model but it has been a complete success. I can get the prop to turn so slow you can count the revolutions. I will probably stick to brushless from now on, although for a four shaft ship, cost of four motors and four ESC's mounts up (can't run two motors off one speed controller with brushless).
 
I now run it off a 7.2 or 8.4v buggy pack. I did run it off a 6v SLA but most brushless controllers don't like voltages of multiples of 3v as that is when they, usually, determine that the voltage is too low and crowbar. I could sail all day at scale speed on a 6v SLA but go flat out and it would last for a few seconds and then the ESC would shut off and not reset requiring a drift to shore or waders. 7.2 or 8.4 or any LiPo configuration should be fine.
 
Brushless motors don't mind which way they run. They are effectively 3 phase AC motors and to have one run 'backwards' just swap two of the three motor leads.
 
HTH
 
And good luck with your boat.

[dreadnought72]

Many thanks, all. I'm off to experiment, once this hull:s made...

Andy

[dreadnought72]

Just as a pictorial example of the lack of much in the ways of tophamper for this class, here's a lovely HMS Mary Rose from the tiny resin kit. (Not mine!)



Andy