Thank you gents - that's my fan club up to 3 now...
Back to the job in hand.
The stand was finished off with a topcoat of red - just what I had to hand really.
Once that was dry I used some ribbed draught excluder to act as cushioning for the model.
Now the hull could be mounted right way up.
cradle_painted.jpg
Marks were made on the inner bulwarks to identify positions for the bulwark supports, of which there are 44, used a red fine tip marker pen for this.
The deck was then once again removed, giving full access for fitting out of the running gear.
The hole for the rudder tube had been previously drilled out and, for whatever reason, had been reamed into an elliptic shape - so this had to be repaired.
To that end, a plastic patch was applied on the inside and smothered with P38. This patch also gave me something to work on, on the outside of the hull, creating a shallow well which was also filled with the P38.
Once hardened off the P38 was sanded down and position marked for drilling.
The pilot hole was drilled then gradually opened out until rudder tube was a push fit. Found a pair of plastic bearings on an old proptube which I'd kept for cutting up so these were pressed into service.
rudder_tube.jpgThis photo shows some of the red marks as described above (and the rudder tube in place).
A length of threaded rod was cut to size to form the rudder shaft. Next came the rudder blade.
Used a template from my previous model (Pilot Boat) to cut the 2 halves of the blade from 0.5mm plasticard. The shaft was laid onto 1 half, covered with a thick layer of epoxy resin, second half of the blade laid onto this and the whole thing clamped to harden off.
The proptube was reinstalled (dry) along with shaft and propeller.
A frame was then made, from plywood scrap, to support the motor and taped into place. Huco coupling added and the whole lined up. happy with that so all removed for next operation, which was to make the oiling tube for the prop.
Drilled hole in the tube then cut and dressed section of brass tube.
Tried soldering tube in place but insufficient heat produced. Remembered reading something about this and decided to dig out an old butane gas torch I'd been given - Bingo! - the solder melted straight away and the tube pushed into place - no problem
A length of clear tubing was immersed in hot water and then teased onto the oiling tube - job done.
The whole drive-train was once again installed and checked for alignment. Now the proptube was epoxied into place.
Once the glue had hardened off the drive-train was again removed.
A support was then made for the inboard end of the prop-tube. This to minimize any possible vibration once everything is up and running.
proptube.jpg Final placement of running gear (electrics) will be worked out next.
Regards,
Ray.