I use Graupner hydro props. Intended for surface drive but work fine. Rounding the tips takes load off them if needed.
I've got couple of spare starter pulleys kicking around, I'll see what shaft diameter and drive mech they are later.
Glow plug starting point are OS no 8, or I like Alpha Engines N4's too.
NiMh receiver pack will be fine.
I have a few Fusion NX83 chargers, they charge both transmitter and receiver, and have peak detection on the receiver battery. I like peak detection so has rigged a couple of adaptor cables to that side for charging transmitters too.
That's a nice radio box, but a bit over the top for this boat. If you're happy to go for it fine, here's a similar one which may fit
http://www.millpondmodels.co.uk/radio-box.html . Personally I'd make it as those boxes are intended for powerfull race boats, and a simple taped lid with drinks bottle top switch access will be fine.
Btw fit a failsafe if the radio doesn't have one. They only protect from a limited number of risks but they are cheap and a sensible addition.
SS rod linkages are a good way to go, but this boat has a long route from the Lazarette (aft space just inside the transom) where the radio box would be to the carb, so 3mm would be a minimum. You can use aero control rods in sleeves, but you'll need bellows on the carb end as moisture and oils getting into them makes them stiff. Keep the control link routes away from the flywheel, if they can connect from the forward side then all the better, a bowden cable may allow a loop around the front of the engine. Route the cable down the starboard side for a wider radius. Cycle cables can be used, but they are meant to be pull only and need spring assistance to work well over a long run. The idea is to keep space around the flywheel for easy belt location.
All of the toothed belts are pretty much the same. They will last ages so long as you keep them away from the exhaust.
Ply will expand and contract with humidity, even if totally sealed I find, the quality of sealing just alters how long it takes for the wood fibre to show through. Cellulose does have low solids and does shrink back over time, but if you're happy to use it then continue to do so. But, automotive acrylics are reasonably fuel proof and a bit more flexible than celly. Two pack is the ultimate but it needs a serious approach to health and safety.