Topic: Podge's Smit Nederland Rebuild (Read 171720 times)

Netleyned · « **Reply #100 on:** December 16, 2015, 06:51:37 pm »

Best of both.
Cut along length halfway through.
AKA Brian's way.
Then place in vice and peel back.
AKA Brian's other way.

Ned

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #101 on:** December 28, 2015, 07:51:25 am »

If you cut away just enough of the outer sheath to grip the inner wires in a vice you can then pull the outer sheath and the inner wires cut through the outer sheath as you pull. I use this method when I need single strands of inner wire. The outer sheath will not have a smooth line as a blade would make but once fitted glued and painted you don't see it.

Mark T · « **Reply #102 on:** December 28, 2015, 10:19:24 am »

Would this sort of stuff work - save all of the hassle?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-BLACK-Rubber-U-Channel-Edging-Trim-Seal-6mm-x-3mm-from-The-Metal-House-/111756249787?hash=item1a05310abb:g:UsIAAOSw3xJVbgzX

Capt Podge · « **Reply #103 on:** January 02, 2016, 03:09:57 pm »

Thank you for the link Mark - wish I'd seen it earlier, I've glued the capping on now.

Never mind, it'll be a while before my next update - computer issues again - I'm using SWMBO'S laptop at the moment.

(for some reason Youtube is just showing a solid green screen when I try to view the video clips

)

Regards,

Ray.

Brian60 · « **Reply #104 on:** January 03, 2016, 10:34:02 am »

Quote from: Capt Podge on January 02, 2016, 03:09:57 pm

Thank you for the link Mark - wish I'd seen it earlier, I've glued the capping on now.

Never mind, it'll be a while before my next update - computer issues again - I'm using SWMBO'S laptop at the moment.

(for some reason Youtube is just showing a solid green screen when I try to view the video clips )

Regards,

Ray.

Try updating the Adobe Flash Player drivers, that is most likely the cause. Each time they release an update I get similar problems with Youtube.

Hande · « **Reply #105 on:** February 02, 2016, 06:22:34 pm »

oh - my - god ...

You are showing the life span of my "Neddie" far beyond completing my build, which I only just started. Seeing, what water does to the boat, possibility of wreckage even when out of the pond. I think I would just have cried and cried...

I admire your insistence and ambition!

Applauds!

Capt Podge · « **Reply #106 on:** February 02, 2016, 06:31:32 pm »

Hi Hande, Hope my efforts don't effect your enthusiasm for the job.

For others that are following this thread - I hope to have a little bit of an update sometime tomorrow.

Regards,

Ray.

sharkbite0 · « **Reply #107 on:** February 02, 2016, 09:50:09 pm »

hi ray look foreword to your update mate

and im still following with interest

regards mick

Hande · « **Reply #108 on:** February 03, 2016, 07:48:43 am »

Not at all. On the contrary - I regret, I waited 40 years to come back to my hobby. Model Boat Mayhem brings it to a higher sphere.
Model building _is_ a thing in Finland, but e.g. shows and events are growing smaller and smaller and being pushed to margins. It is a country of only 5 million - the population base does not grow too many hobbyists in any trade.

If ever I travel to the UK, how does it work, would it be possible to turn up in a club or an event just to drool over your models and the activities and facilities ;-) ? Or is it "members only"?

I am following your rebuild. Fascinating to see, how it's done the hard way.

Quote from: Capt Podge on February 02, 2016, 06:31:32 pm

Hi Hande, Hope my efforts don't effect your enthusiasm for the job.

Regards,

Ray.

Hande · « **Reply #109 on:** February 03, 2016, 08:25:41 am »

Is the isolated compartment in the bow for the radio? If so - do you have a copper plate or other means of insulation towards the ESC?

Hande · « **Reply #110 on:** February 03, 2016, 08:29:00 am »

Do you feel the Billings ABS hull does well without reinforcement by glassfibre. I hate the chemicals that go with applying glassfibre and I'd rather not do.

I can see that you applied epoxy(?) around the sole plate in the bottom. That should already make the hull more rigid?

Hande · « **Reply #111 on:** February 03, 2016, 08:37:06 am »

It is interesting, how Billings have modified the kit in different years.

I don't know what year's model my "Neddie" is, but it came with the BB528(S.N.) extras - including the bulwark rail cap, which is more or less exactly the stuff from the ebay-link.

(As for rudders, the extras didn't include complete rudders, but they had to be built from 26 acrylic pieces, each.)

Quote from: Mark T on December 28, 2015, 10:19:24 am

Would this sort of stuff work - save all of the hassle?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-BLACK-Rubber-U-Channel-Edging-Trim-Seal-6mm-x-3mm-from-The-Metal-House-/111756249787?hash=item1a05310abb:g:UsIAAOSw3xJVbgzX

Hande · « **Reply #112 on:** February 03, 2016, 08:59:22 am »

Your post #78 has a photo of the inside of the hull.

At the inside end of the propeller shaft tubes it looks like lubrication hose. Am I right?
If they are for lubrication, how is the hose connected to the shaft tube? Have you made a branch?
That would be clever.

For lubrication and for keeping water out I would prefer a thick vaseline that would stay in the tube for many times of running. Applying a lubricant through a hose requires a pretty fluid lubricant, which doesn't stay for long. A tradeoff, to be sure.

So far, I have thought that as a matter of regular maintenance, the propeller shafts should be taken out and lubricant applied - may be from both ends. I have wondered how the shafts come out with the rudders in the way. Not a good idea to bend the rudders sidewards to allow the shaft to come out.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #113 on:** February 03, 2016, 10:42:50 pm »

Quote from: sharkbite0 on February 02, 2016, 09:50:09 pm

hi ray look foreword to your update mate
and im still following with interest
regards mick

Update coming shortly Mick

Quote from: Hande on February 03, 2016, 08:25:41 am

Is the isolated compartment in the bow for the radio? If so - do you have a copper plate or other means of insulation towards the ESC?

There is no radio gear in the for'd section - the bulwark was made just to assist with hull rigidity.

Quote from: Hande on February 03, 2016, 08:59:22 am

Your post #78 has a photo of the inside of the hull.

At the inside end of the propeller shaft tubes it looks like lubrication hose. Am I right?
If they are for lubrication, how is the hose connected to the shaft tube? Have you made a branch?
That would be clever.

For lubrication and for keeping water out I would prefer a thick vaseline that would stay in the tube for many times of running. Applying a lubricant through a hose requires a pretty fluid lubricant, which doesn't stay for long. A tradeoff, to be sure.

So far, I have thought that as a matter of regular maintenance, the propeller shafts should be taken out and lubricant applied - may be from both ends. I have wondered how the shafts come out with the rudders in the way. Not a good idea to bend the rudders sidewards to allow the shaft to come out.

I had a problem with the "oil tube" leaking so just resorted to using the lubrication tubing. The proptubes are well packed with grease now but, if I need to add more grease in future, it will just be syringed into the tubes.
For shaft removal I just take off the propellors, remove the motors and pull the shafts into the hull.

Regards,

Ray.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #114 on:** February 03, 2016, 10:58:00 pm »

After giving it a bit of thought I've decided to make the main superstructure removable, mainly for access for battery changes, without the necessity of lifting the whole inner deck off.
So, to that end, a strip of 1cm x 1cm balsa was cut to size and epoxied to the underside of the opening. This gives me a 13mm deep area for gluing the coaming to.
The inner coaming was then made up and glued on.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #115 on:** February 03, 2016, 11:04:33 pm »

Used cling film for a glue barrier whilst making up the outer coaming.

While that was setting, an "emergency equipment" box was then make and screwed to the foredeck, to hide (and protect) the main on/off switch. Completed this with a lid which incorporates a "no-loss" safety chain.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #116 on:** February 03, 2016, 11:10:51 pm »

Interesting ideas Cap'n. I like the use of an old Vee Belt as it doubles as a real fender with its rubbery properties and has the detailalready in place.

Genuis:O)

Capt Podge · « **Reply #117 on:** February 03, 2016, 11:15:16 pm »

Next, a platform was made to fit over the outer coaming to give it rigidity.

Of the four pieces that make up the lower superstructure, only the aftmost bulkhead is straight, the other 3 sections need to have a curve induced. So, to that end, formers needed to be made for the sides and front to follow. The formers were produced in the original kit but I couldn't save them for this rebuild.

Side formers and spacers were made up, along with the front one and one for the back and then all plaswelded together - now, the access hatch can be lifted in one movement.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #118 on:** February 03, 2016, 11:18:35 pm »

Quote from: ballastanksian on February 03, 2016, 11:10:51 pm

Interesting ideas Cap'n. I like the use of an old Vee Belt as it doubles as a real fender with its rubbery properties and has the detailalready in place.

Genuis:O)

Thanks Ian, the original kit came with a strip of wood with 2 chamfered edges. The strip had to then be cut into little pieces of varying sizes and glued in place one at a time. I just couldn't get it right and so opted for the vee belt.

Regards,

Ray.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #119 on:** February 03, 2016, 11:25:48 pm »

Decided at this point to add some extra uprights to the formers to help maintain the shape of the superstructure.

Now, the rear bulkhead was cut to size and the 2 louvre vent frames made. The slats of the louvres were then superglued in at an angle to suggest being partially opened.
The completed vents were then welded to the bulkhead, and the bulkhead then welded in place.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #120 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:00:23 am »

Next, the Stbd bulkhead was cut to size, and decksheer, then 0.5mm pilot holes drilled for the handrails - there's also a porthole on this side so this was marked, drilled and reamed and the brass ring press fitted into place. It's easier to fit now rather than when the whole structure is tied together - it will still need "glazing" but access should be ok from underneath.

The Port bulkhead was then completed in the same way but 3 portholes needed fitting this time.

So, now came the welding in place of the whole.

Just as an added bonus - when it comes to painting the main deck, the whole superstructure can be lifted clear therefore, no need for masking up !

The original for'd bulkhead was made up of 3 parts but I've just made it in 1 section around the former.

The upper, or wheelhouse deck, was then made using a 2mm and 1mm plasticard lamination for added rigidity.
Got the shape by laying the lamination upside down on the workbench and then inverted the superstructure onto it and marked it off with a pencil.
The deck was then trimmed to the lines and welded in place, first of all from the inside of the structure. This prevented any unwanted movement then the plasweld was applied again on the outside.

The structure was then put aside, ready for final trimming later.
Meanwhile, a start was made on preparing some of the original deck fittings, some need touching up, others will go straight back in place, (once the paint spraying has been done) but this time they will be pinned and glued.

With final trimming of the lower structure now completed, I could concentrate on getting the steps made up.

First off. the inboard side piece, for the Port side, was made using the original as a template. This was followed by the 3 backing boards which were welded into place.
Happy with that, so the steps were tackled next.
Now for the Stbd side.

This first photo shows the Port side steps done and a start made on the Stbd side.

The other photos show some of the main deck fittings in place - they are just pinned on and will be removed for the paint process.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #121 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:06:23 am »

Having completed the Stbd stairs, attention turned to sorting the fittings for the removable portion of the main deck.

The 2 for'd warp guides are pinned to the lower superstructure and double up as "lifting points" when superstructure removal is required.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #122 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:21:38 am »

All fittings were then removed and stored on sheets of dense foam.

Now came one of those "drop a clanger" moments - found a length of "u" channel plastic which I thought would look better than the rubber sheath (for the coamings) and would be a good tight fit.
So, a portion of the rubber was removed and the plastic tried - too tight, so thought I could soften it in the oven.
After 5 mins the plastic was taken out and tried for fit on the bulwark. The heat had the opposite effect to what I was after and had turned the plastic brittle, so it just disintegrated when I tried to push it onto the bulwark.
Now, I've got a repair job to do, to get the rubber back on.

Next time I get a "bright idea" I'll test it on scrap first !

OK then, because the weather still precludes any paint spraying I'll carry on with making up replacement fittings for the superstructure. First up then, are the liferaft cradles.
These are made from 7 parts each. I've made them in plasticard, mainly for the ease and neatness of welding together and attaching to the Port & Stbd bulkheads.

Here's a photo of them ready for mounting.

....and now we're up to date.

Regards,

Ray.

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #123 on:** February 04, 2016, 07:26:45 am »

Superb stuff Capt, I love the details....... Especially the winch.

sharkbite0 · « **Reply #124 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:14:57 pm »

looking great ray the detail work is superb mate love the winch would look nice on one of my boats lol

keep the updates coming.

regards Mick

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Author Topic: Podge's Smit Nederland Rebuild (Read 171720 times)