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[Capt Podge]

Very little done since last update but here it is:-
 
Now, the 'P' brackets were removed, smeared with epoxy resin where they meet the hull and the nuts tightened up. The prop tubes were pushed through the 'P' brackets to keep them aligned whilst the gllue hardened up.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

Some of the leftover glue was smeared over the screws which keep the kort nozzles held tight against the underside of the hull.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

Oiling tubes were then made for the proptubes and soldered on...
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Capt Podge]

Where does the time go ?
 
It's been 10 days since the last update and, to be honest, very little modelling work has taken place during that time.
 
However, I've managed to get back into the workshop these past couple of evenings so here goes...
 
That pesky cross-member sprang off again so, to give more support, a bulkhead was made.
 
The rough shape of this was made with cereal packet card, trimmed & tried, until happy with the shape, then transferred to 3mm mdf.
Before fitting, a hatch was made, just in case access is needed to the bow area later on.
The access hatch is well up from the bottom of the hull as I want this bulkhead to be watertight "just in case" of any future damage during sailing sessions.
 
 

[Capt Podge]

Incidentally, the white primer I sprayed the inner hull with, has revealed a secondary bonus. As mentioned earlier, it gives the inside a clean appearance, but the bonus point: The primed surface is excellent for marking out in pencil - I did this when I test fitted the RGP and the new bulkhead.
 
The bulkhead hatch is just a cut-out, held in place with Robbe deck clips, with a balsa wood landing area on the other side, and a plastic nut & bolt serves as the handle.
 
P38 was then applied to seal off the edges of the bulkhead - started on the edges of the RGP as well, hoping this will stop any water getting underneath the platform.
As luck would have it, I ran out of P38 just 30 mins after the shops had shut.
 
So the remainder of this evenings session was spent sanding down - hopefully get this bit finished off tomorrow.
 
In the last photo, the main deck is just laid on the hull, to show access to the hatch.
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[dougal99]

Seal the MDF really well. If water gets to it it will expand. Don't ask how I know 

[Capt Podge]

Seal the MDF really well. If water gets to it it will expand. Don't ask how I know 

I honestly didn't know that - thank you very much for the advice, that wood's gonna get so many coats of sealer / paint it'll be another 1mm thick when I'm done.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Capt Podge]

I usually buy my P38 in 120ml tubes but this time I opted for the 250ml tin. I'm finding it easier to use than the tube for some reason...
 
Anyway, more P38 was applied this evening and once hardened off was given a cursory sanding down. This was followed by a wipedown with plain warm water to get rid of the resultant dust.
 
Next, attention was given to mounting the anchors. They will be non-working and so, to that end, they need to be in place before the deck goes on.
A suitable piece of tubing was teased onto the stocks of the anchors to prevent them from falling. Each of the flukes was then epoxied to the hull for stability.
 
Note: No glue on the inside so that, should I decide to have working anchors sometime in the future, they can be freed up quite easily.
 
Just a few photos here to finish this update....
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 

[Martin (Admin)]

Another thought, P38 ( et al ) doesn't stick very well to ABS plastic, don't rely on it as a sealant.   

 If it 'breaks away', I've successfully glued ( and sealed  ) it by sticking it back with thin Superglue.

[Capt Podge]

Another thought, P38 ( et al ) doesn't stick very well to ABS plastic, don't rely on it as a sealant.   

 If it 'breaks away', I've successfully glued ( and sealed  ) it by sticking it back with thin Superglue.

 
...and that's another great bit of info stored away in the "ready use" locker - thanks Martin. 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Stavros]

Ray just a piece of advice it is a big NO NO to wipe ANY form of filler down with warm water as filler is Porous and will hold in water.Gentle heat will get rid of any dampness in it.....as Martin has pointed out filler is a total waste of time to use with any plastic it simply wont stick to it properly.......I bet that before long with handling it will simply come off due to the hull flexing.....you would have been far better  of using Stabalit Express epoxy or even Tiger seal to hold the bulkhead and batt tray in the hull.....Tiger seal is a flexible sealent used it he automotive industry


Dave

[sharkbite0]

Ray, that's great job your doing mate and im looking foreword to seeing the completed refurbish.
Were do you sail Ray/ may come up to see the relaunch?
regards
Mick

[Capt Podge]

Stavros - thank you for that advice, looks as though I'm going to have to strip the bulkhead and platform back out, get rid of the P38 and redo the job.
I don't suppose that, having sprayed the hull with primer, before using the P38, it would make any difference ?
 
Mick - I sail at Tynemouth boating lake. Judging by what I've done with the P38, it's going to be quite some time until the relaunch
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Martin (Admin)]

Flex the hull and see if the filler breaks or peels away.
You can try the Superglue trick or here's a video of Tiger seal:  https://youtu.be/h3BxJqf7FiI

[sharkbite0]

mark - i sail at salt-well park Gateshead must have a trip over to Tynemouth one week end.
regarding the p38 filler  as stavros says it is not the best thing to use i use ready mixed fibreglass from the auto shop.
it is ready mixed glass strands and resin and just like p38 you add the hardener mix well and apply like p38.
regards
Mick
   

[Stavros]

Ray spraying the hull Before applying the filler is a BIG NO NO as the only thing the filler has to grip on s smooth paint a sure recipe for disaster....NOW the cure.....This is elementary dear Watson....to make life earier for yourself and THIS WILL save you a lot of work....Get hold of some Sticks like....you know what/Grip fill/Tiger seal....and simply run a good bead over what you have filled over ....obviously overlapping by a couple of MM ...This should eat into the paint enough to bond the bulkhead and the batt tray enough to prevent them coming off...This is what I WOULD DO .....Otheriwse it is a horrible job and you RISK damage to the hull by removing the filler


Dave

[Martin (Admin)]

Yes and obviously TEST ON SPRAP MATERIAL FIRST!

 .... ABS can be a very peculiar material!

[Fastfaz]

Hi Ray,
     I am with Stavros on the filler malarkey and have learnt from experience (BAD!) that you do not stick anything that you want a permanent fixture on directly to a painted surface. I have used very successfully either of the following- P40 which is a mix of glassfibre strands and gel or for the hull floor "Forever" clear silicone which sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. I use the P40 to seal both inside and outside of the bow thrusters I fit to my tugs and then smooth over with filler but as Stav says its not waterproof.
     Re the silicone when I am siting my motors I try and fix the motor and mount to a wooden block of some sort then screw this down to the wooden hull base/floor with a bed of silicone under it, you can remove the motor from the silicone seal if you need to replace the motor and the silicone acts like a shock absorber against vibration. Whatever you do don't use cheap silicone from the pound shop its crap, Forever is a brand name and is very good stuff. Re the MDF being a chippie I know a fair bit about it and MDF and water do not mix its dust by the way is Carsenogenic you will be a lot safer with plywood seal every surface just in case. Hope this helps, keep up the good work and pic's.
       Cheers,
            Faz.

[Martin (Admin)]

Everbuild FOREVERCLEAR Forever Clear Bathroom & Kitchen Silicone - Clear - 310m
http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-359180/everbuild-foreverclear-forever-clear.html?gclid=CKSx74WjwsgCFYmRGwodUfIIbQ

[Fastfaz]

     That's the one Martin, well done!
          Cheers,
             Faz.

[Capt Podge]

A BIG THANK YOU to all responders. I'm going to go with Stavros suggestion ref the sticks like.
 
Been away today so nothing else achieved. We'll have another crack at it tomorrow....
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Martin (Admin)]

 
http://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-sticks-like-sh-t-290ml/22070

[Capt Podge]

Right-oh Thanks Martin - I'll get a tube or two tomorrow
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Capt Podge]

Bought the "sticky stuff" and slapped it on. Hull now set aside while the stuff goes off. In the meantime, the workshop was given a bit of a tidy up and a start made on getting the 2 x 540 motors cleaned up.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 

[Brian60]

Don't forget anything that is stuck or sealed with silicone cannot be overpainted. The paint just will not stick to silicone so use it sparingly and in areas that don;t require paint.