Topic: Norman's Springer (Read 105759 times)

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #100 on:** September 28, 2015, 10:25:29 am »

Yes, try that servo out, if it works it works!.
( Personally, I would make the mounting big enough to take a standard servo (40x20mm) so if there is a problem it can be replaced later. )

Futaba S3003 (s148) - "Servo Standard"
Basic Information
Modulation:    Analog
Torque:    4.8V: 44.0 oz-in (3.17 kg-cm) - 6.0V: 57.0 oz-in (4.10 kg-cm)
Speed:    4.8V: 0.23 sec/60° - 6.0V: 0.19 sec/60°
Weight:    1.31 oz (37.0 g)
Dimensions:
Length: 1.57 in (39.9 mm)
Width: 0.79 in (20.1 mm)
Height: 1.42 in (36.1 mm)
Motor Type:    ? (add)
Gear Type:    Plastic
Rotation/Support:    Bushing

Arrow5 · « **Reply #101 on:** September 28, 2015, 12:22:25 pm »

Good idea. plan ahea...d

Norman Castle · « **Reply #102 on:** September 28, 2015, 05:49:46 pm »

Ah. Methinks I might well be able to acquire one of those at little or no cost ...

Neat idea for the rudder!

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #103 on:** September 29, 2015, 08:41:39 pm »

Futaba S3003 a great servo but BE WARNED, if buying from eBay you may need to check them if they are from a Chinese seller. The reason....... I bought some of these a couple of years back, it stated in the advert 'genuine futaba S3003 servos. On receiving them I noticed they didn't all work or sound the same, on closer inspection I also noticed the stickers were not really stuck on very straight and an even the supplied screws didn't pass through the supplied eyelets.
If you send them to futaba they just destroy them, if you use them in aircraft they destroy your aircraft and if you tell eBay they ask you to return them to the supplier. Unfortunately postage costs from Europe is usually 90% of the purchase price (ok not quite but a big percentage) and it's not worth the hassle.
Lesson learned buy from European trusted sellers. U2

Norman Castle · « **Reply #104 on:** September 30, 2015, 07:05:14 am »

Thanks for the warning U2, but I managed to get an as-new 100% kosher one yesterday from a bloke down the road

Norman Castle · « **Reply #105 on:** October 04, 2015, 01:58:51 pm »

Quote from: Arrow5 on September 24, 2015, 03:56:12 pm

If you replace the centre section(red bit) with silicon tube it will be much a quieter boat. Exhaust pipe for a 40 or 60 size glow motor, tight push fit over splines from your aeromodelling days.

Alas, my aeromodelling didn't extend into infernal combustion engines, so I've been trying to find a source of some of this 'ere tubing since last weekend and I've got nowhere.

I'll have to get some online, so what exactly is it I want and what ID to fit tight enough over those splined adaptor thingies that are nigh on 8mm diameter?

Arrow5 · « **Reply #106 on:** October 04, 2015, 04:38:07 pm »

Try Anglia Model Centre , they are a proper model shop and do aero as well as marine. They have ebay presence too. Just describe what you want it for, they will have the splined pieces to check for a tight push fit. I`m sure they will sell you 12" piece. It is heatproof silicon tube for joining exhaust to silencers and tuned pipes on both aircraft and boats, not fuel tube which is far too small. They do a nice line in alloy motor mounts if you havent got that far.. Some pictures of your build would help in case we see any problems developing.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #107 on:** October 04, 2015, 05:40:14 pm »

Quote from: Arrow5 on October 04, 2015, 04:38:07 pm

Try Anglia Model Centre , they are a proper model shop and do aero as well as marine. They have ebay presence too. Just describe what you want it for, they will have the splined pieces to check for a tight push fit. I`m sure they will sell you 12" piece. It is heatproof silicon tube for joining exhaust to silencers and tuned pipes on both aircraft and boats, not fuel tube which is far too small. They do a nice line in alloy motor mounts if you havent got that far.. Some pictures of your build would help in case we see any problems developing.

Thank you sir. I should be able to get a snap or two of the ongoing works in the coming week.

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #108 on:** October 05, 2015, 08:10:55 am »

Blimey Norman almost 2500 views of this thread so far and not a single photo to actually view

are you honestly building one

ha ha ha, I'm sure you'll get something on here soon. I'd like to say it's looking good but instead I'll just say it sounds good

. Looking forward to next week. U2

Norman Castle · « **Reply #109 on:** October 05, 2015, 11:03:08 am »

Quote from: Unsinkable 2 on October 05, 2015, 08:10:55 am

... are you honestly building one ...

Oh indeed, but not at any great speed, on account of (a) I don't really know what I'm doing and (b) life keeps getting in the way. Et voilà, the present state of play ...

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #110 on:** October 05, 2015, 08:09:22 pm »

I understand what you mean when you say life gets in the way, my job gets in the way, I would like to be retired but if I was then I suppose I would just wish I was younger

you can't win can you?

It doesn't matter how long it takes Norman, it's started, it'll progress and one day it'll be ready to sail...... Good on yer for getting a photo on....... My turn now, I have to update my thread....... See what you've done now, inspired me...... Thanks....... U2

Arrow5 · « **Reply #111 on:** October 06, 2015, 09:36:27 am »

Good photograph, epoxy a triangle of wood all the way up the propshaft (just like the skeg ) Solder a vertical oiler tube about 25mm from top end of propshaft tube first. Nice clean work area.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #112 on:** October 06, 2015, 12:55:05 pm »

Quote from: Arrow5 on October 06, 2015, 09:36:27 am

Nice clean work area.

Wonder why my lady wife never says that ...

Anyhow - question time again. At the moment, the plan (such as it is) is for all the woodwork above deck level to be balsa, primarily on account of then I don't have to buy any more ply. Good idea, bad idea or makes no odds?

Arrow5 · « **Reply #113 on:** October 06, 2015, 01:30:24 pm »

Sometime one finds a ready made top from food containers, toys etc. Balsa has merits , ease of use but then needs filling, papering, painting and so on. Thin ( 1/16th inch) ply or plasticard still costs money but will last longer. Only about a square foot required depending on your chosen design.

radiojoe · « **Reply #114 on:** October 06, 2015, 01:34:48 pm »

Personally I'd use ply, balsa is not that strong, you've made a nice strong hull so it would be a shame to have a wheelhouse that gets damaged easily, these are tough little work boats that tend to get slung in the back of the car on sailing outings, of course this is just my opinion,

but as Arrow says don't forget the greaser on the shaft tube or you will get water though it, just a brass tube about 1" long and 1" from the coupling end soldered in place then run a drill down it to make a hole in the shaft tube so you can inject a plug of shaft grease.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #115 on:** October 06, 2015, 03:46:18 pm »

OK, point taken about balsa. Ply it is then, unless I can scrounge some thick Plasticard-type stuff from somewhere

Ref this bloomin' greaser, about which I'd forgotten, do I have to use grease or could I get away with engine oil?

radiojoe · « **Reply #116 on:** October 06, 2015, 06:25:32 pm »

Hi Norman, oil of any thickness will eventually run out of the prop tube at the prop end the idea is to use shaft grease, it only needs to be a "plug" of grease injected though the greaser tube this forms the water seal, some guys use Vasaline or silicon grease I prefer Robbe shaft grease, you can get plastic greasers that clamp over a hole drilled in the top of the tube, you can get them in various sizes. hope this helps

Arrow5 · « **Reply #117 on:** October 06, 2015, 10:27:55 pm »

Food container wheelhouse idea. ( M&S salad )

Arrow5 · « **Reply #118 on:** October 06, 2015, 10:30:57 pm »

Posh chocolate cabin (Ferro Roche sp?)

Arrow5 · « **Reply #119 on:** October 06, 2015, 11:02:42 pm »

Simple one car ferry,just right for a 1/24th scale car. Google pictures have plenty of shots. Build with bow ramp up !

Norman Castle · « **Reply #120 on:** October 09, 2015, 11:37:25 am »

Well, the weekend approaches and the build continues, albeit slowly. (I'm not one for making mistakes quickly.)

Ply with servo on and rudder hardware subject to change, btw.

The ply under the motor is aligned parallel to the prop shaft axis but about 10mm below it, the idea being that this will make it easier to play about with different motors in due course.

And talking of motors, is it actually essential that I fit suppressor caps to the motor?

Norman Castle · « **Reply #121 on:** October 09, 2015, 03:56:58 pm »

Sorry chaps, another question now the battery's come ...

I'm reckoning on finalizing battery placement once I have the hull afloat, but I'm completely in the dark about what sort of gross weight I want to end up with. Right now, the hull + all hardware + battery totals 3lb near as dammit. If I mount the battery aligned fore and aft on one side of the motor I can get the weight lower down (which I imagine is a Good Thing), but I'd then need about 8oz of ballast on t'other side to level things up, which would take the gross weight to 3.5lb or so. Is that in the right parish or what?

Arrow5 · « **Reply #122 on:** October 09, 2015, 08:11:49 pm »

Suppressors, yes on FM and AM radios not sure about 2.4ghz. Your rudder servo could be better aligned and just use one of the four arms. Put a full height bulkhead to the servo tray in case you get a leak up rudder tube in spite of grease. Second post, BATTERY singular ? Two batteries, 6v 4.5Ah, solves that problem, one each side of motor. Fixing them with velcro will allow moving them to trim boat fore and aft. Look again in some of the builds in the Springer thread. The finished boat could be about 7 or 8 pounds in weight. Too much power is not a good idea. Fill all voids with polystyrene foam.

Got an idea for the top yet ?

Norman Castle · « **Reply #123 on:** October 18, 2015, 03:58:38 pm »

Right ho, by way of an update, here's the hull as it is this afternoon hanging in my environmentally-friendly ('cos it's powered by a wood stove) paint drier, having had its second coat of red Humbrol. If I'm lucky it'll be dry enough after tea for me to get a second coat of white on the deck. Then in the morning I decide whether to go for a third layer of red on the hull, or to do the first coat of above-waterline black.

Meanwhile, work proceeds on the top, which is only going to be very basic on account of how I don't want to spend more time/money than I have to on what really amounts to a tryout of all aspects of this model boating lark ...

Norman Castle · « **Reply #124 on:** October 20, 2015, 06:11:52 pm »

Well today we had the maiden voyage of the unfinished Springer, and to my great relief all went well once I'd got the ballast in the right places. No leaks, no power plant problems, in fact no problems at all apart from the weed in the pond, so now I can concentrate on getting this one finished!

I think the only thing I'm stuck on now is what on earth to use for the "rubber" buffer strip I want to run right round the hull at the joint line between hull and deck. Any suggestions, please chaps? At present the best I've come up with is a D-shaped uPVC door or window gasket, but no luck so far finding one that looks to be worth trying ...

Good fun this model boats lark, innit!

News:

Author Topic: Norman's Springer (Read 105759 times)