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[Netleyned]

Forgot to add
Those are my settings on my DX6i.

Ned

[Norman Castle]

... Some people take the ratchet off and replace it with a spring to give
a return to neutral if you let go of the stick.

Oh, I like the sound of that!  Off now to Google how to do it 

Thanks gents.

[Big Ada]

My two Springer Tugs.
http://mbadover.org.uk/media/kunena/attachments/708/APairofSpringerTugs009.JPG

[Norman Castle]

Two newbie questions coming up :)

1.  Am I right in assuming that Deluxe Materials' "Genuine Aliphatic Resin" yellow glue will be OK to use to put together a simple ply hull?  If not, what do I use?

2.  And having built my simple ply hull, what do I use to finish it?  I'm not after a work of art (at least not for the time being!), but merely a presentable red up to the waterline and gloss black above it.  What do I use for filler?  I'm thinking about the exposed edges of the ply in particular.  And having filled it, what paint?

I'm probably not making this as easy as it could be, but any spraying would have to be rattle cans outdoors in suitable weather, and whatever materials I need will have to come from either the local model shop or Homebase     

[BFSMP]

hello norman
yes aliphatic resin is a good waterproof glue that is excellent for gluing wood together including ply wood.
and p38 car body filler is a soft filler that allows you to sand it flat without sanding the wood away. it can even be used on balsa wood with care.
And to finish it off and close the grain ready for painting use sanding sealer, but rub each coat down when dry with fine wire wool or a fine abrasive paper to get a really smooth finish ready for painting.

[Stavros]

please read my article about paint and fillers in the painting section it is all there what to do


Dave

[Martin (Admin)]

 
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,39337.0.html

[Norman Castle]

Cheers, gents.

Dave/Martin, I did actually read the article and I found it very informative.  But for now I'm not aiming for what seemed to me to be such a high standard, and besides, I'm only dipping my toes in this model boats lark at present, so I can't justify buying more materials than I really need for this first attempt.

All I want to do for now is put a waterproof finish on a ply Springer hull.  I can no doubt get myself a tube of filler without too much trouble, and I can lay my hands on a few different grades of various abrasive papers and some 000 wire wool, but what do I do for paint?  Unless I missed it, that's not covered in the article, so the question now is - what do I use?  I can brush or I can use rattle cans outdoors in suitable weather (if we ever get any), but what type/make?  Sorry guys, but this is completely uncharted territory ...

[Martin (Admin)]

Thin some varnish or paint, wash all the woodwork with that so it soaks in. 2 or 3 or 4 top coats with same paint, " job's a good 'in!,".

[Norman Castle]

Thin some varnish or paint, wash all the woodwork with that so it soaks in. 2 or 3 or 4 top coats with same paint, " job's a good 'in!,".

  Oh dear ...

Sorry Martin, but I did say I'm starting at square one here.  What kind of paint?  Thinned with what?  And if I want this thing red below the waterline and black above it, am I right in guessing that I do all the wood with the red first then just a couple of coats of black on the top?

[Brian60]

As a general rule, always paint the lighter colour first. You will find it almost impossible to paint light over dark paint without lots and lots of coats!

For paint, it dpends. Are you going to put it in water? If its just a static model to try your hand at it, then use a general wood gloss paint like Dulux for painting your house. If its for going in water, I would get a couple tins of Humbrol gloss, one red one black, for the superstructure also a white. Many modellers start out with Humbrol paints as that is what they are for, before moving on to more complex paints. You could of course take the easy way out and just use a couple tins of car spray paint, it is just as durable.

[Norman Castle]

Brian, thank you very much indeed for that comprehensive answer     

Right, I think that's me up to speed on the finishing front for the time being, so now to start getting my head round boat ESC's ...

[Martin (Admin)]

 
Yes that's how I painted mine, lots of thin coats of car spray paint.

[malcolmfrary]

As said above, Humbrol enamels are a good simple starter.  If brushing, use a good quality soft brush for a good finish, and look after the brush - always clean after use.  A good preparation is the first step to a good finish, but can be spoiled by using a nasty brush.

[inertia]

Right, I think that's me up to speed on the finishing front for the time being, so now to start getting my head round boat ESC's ...

Norman
You will find some useful stuff about the electrical side of things here http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/but-i-don-t-understand-electronics/18054
DM

[Martin (Admin)]

Are you happy Norman?
 If not, PM me you phone No. and I'll ring you for a chat.   

My Build:  https://plus.google.com/photos/+ModelBoatMayhemPhotos/albums/6159627909341985921

[Norman Castle]

Yep, I'm happy, Martin.  Thank you.

And I'm even happier now that our local timber yard has just done me a 3ft x 2ft bit of very nice 6mm ply for exactly £13.19 less than Homebase wanted for the same sized bit of total rubbish ply not fit for making a tea chest with :)

Thanks for the link, DM. I'll check it out.  Got to get my hear round these 'ere nautical ESC's being a bit weird compared to my aircraft ones, in that these have reverse.  And they seem to need water-cooling too! 

[Norman Castle]

Or to be precise, this type of propshaft ...

Now, I've never had any dealings with model boat propshafts, so I'm looking at that and wondering if I get one of those ...

(a) what do I do if anything about lubrication?  And

(b) what stops water finding its way up it?

And come to think of it, what stops the prop coming unscrewed when going astern?  Thread-lock, or what?

Gosh.  So many questions ...

[dougal99]

a. light oil or thin grease


b. ditto and try to have the inner end above the water line


c. lock nut

[dougal99]

  And they seem to need water-cooling too! 

not unless your running high current/ high speed. none of mine (12 or so) are water cooled and I've only lost one and that was due to old age (the ESC not me  )

[Norman Castle]

Oh great! 

Thanks mister.  Now I can get one ordered today ...

[Norman Castle]

not unless your running high current/ high speed.

Which I certainly won't be, so thankfully I now know that water-cooling is off the list of things to sort out before this first foray into the water ...

[inertia]

http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/ESCs.pdf

All you need to know about speed controllers. There's another article on the same website about "BEC" (Beginners Expect Confusion) but that will either bore you rigid or scare you to death...... or so I've been told!

[Norman Castle]

Cheers inertia, that's actually jolly useful!   

[Unsinkable 2]

Norman, I wondered the same a couple of months back. I ordered a brass prop and shaft, make sure not to order the wrong size like I did, doh . Make sure your thread on the prop shaft is the same as in the prop. IE 4mm or 5mm and then what I did was to pack a syringe with grease and inject it into the outer shaft, then I pushed the inner shaft back in. A "worm" of grease will exit the other end but then you know it's full and it won't leak internally. My prop shaft is below the waterline inside the boat but doesn't let a drop in.
When I fitted the outer shaft through the hull I pushed it partly in then smeared araldite all over it and pushed it the rest of the way until it was where I wanted it. I used the excess araldite that got scraped off around the prop shaft on the inside making sure not to glue the inner and outer shafts together.  U2