Topic: Norman's Springer (Read 104552 times)

Norman Castle · « **Reply #75 on:** September 25, 2015, 10:41:59 am »

Quote from: Dave Cook on September 25, 2015, 10:31:41 am

Castrol R now that brings back great memories

How about Gunk on a hot engine then?

Dave Cook · « **Reply #76 on:** September 25, 2015, 12:23:19 pm »

Wow even better

Norman Castle · « **Reply #77 on:** September 25, 2015, 06:46:26 pm »

So ... while waiting for Herpes to deliver the parcel that's been showing as "out for delivery with your local courier" since 0730 on Thursday, I've been pondering on several aspects of boat design as it relates to My First Springer, and I have a question about skegs.

Obviously that part of the skeg below the propshaft serves to protect the prop and rudder from nasties, but what else does it do? Or to put it another way, what would be the effect of replacing the bottom section of the skeg by a skeletal (strip or wire) one? Wouldn't that tend to make the rudder more responsive?

Arrow5 · « **Reply #78 on:** September 25, 2015, 07:33:14 pm »

If it was a Formula 1 boat perhaps but the original plans showed that flat metal strip had a hole to accommodate the bottom bearing of the rudder. Most people seem to forget about that and just keep the strip for prop and rudder protection, your choice . A square rudder to regulation size rather than the common proprietary items seem to be the norm, add a T strip (Gurney) for added response if you like but they are quite nimble in a sort of way. A square tube fitted "diamond" fashion is easiest way to make a "fishtail". See illustrations in thread, soldering required.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #79 on:** September 25, 2015, 07:57:16 pm »

Cheers arrow5. The only ships' bottoms I recall seeing in real life had the end of the propshaft held in place by a vee-shaped bracket, so I was just trying to work out the actual purpose of the skeg. I guess it boils down to prop/rudder protection plus being an easier build than a fabricated brackety thing.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #80 on:** September 25, 2015, 10:02:53 pm »

Correct, its a simple model built like a brick, not as bad as the Motoflot, but the skeg is supporting the propshaft and giving a bit of help in straight tracking plus a mount for the prop and rudder protection and bearing at bottom of rudder if used..

Norman Castle · « **Reply #81 on:** September 26, 2015, 06:53:30 am »

Quote from: Arrow5 on September 25, 2015, 10:02:53 pm

... the skeg is supporting the propshaft and giving a bit of help in straight tracking ...

Thank you, sir. You just cleared up the bit I was still wondering about :)

Arrow5 · « **Reply #82 on:** September 26, 2015, 11:52:07 am »

Any thoughts on style of topside of Springer yet ? Ye olde Enlish Thames steam tug maybe ????

Norman Castle · « **Reply #83 on:** September 26, 2015, 12:41:22 pm »

Quote from: Arrow5 on September 26, 2015, 11:52:07 am

Any thoughts on style of topside of Springer yet ? Ye olde Enlish Thames steam tug maybe ????

Dunno yet. The basic hull is done to the point at which I need to establish where the rudder and propshaft need to be, but I'm snookered for that until the shaft arrives. Right now I'm inclined towards simply making the deck with a girt big rectangular 'ole in it surrounded by an upstand (coaming?) of maybe 15mm over which I can in due course fit different tops. Makes some kind of sense?

Arrow5 · « **Reply #84 on:** September 26, 2015, 04:08:08 pm »

Yep , perfect sense. Don't let the rudder project beyond the transom (stern). All the part positions are on the plan, just need a little shuffling to suit your gear.

Netleyned · « **Reply #85 on:** September 26, 2015, 04:24:34 pm »

Go for 20mm on the coaming.
Springers tend to bury the bow
as soon as you open up.
Ballast her a bit nose up
A bulwark around the bow will
keep some water off the deck.
but make sure it has an escape
route overboard.The water not the bulwark

Ned

Norman Castle · « **Reply #86 on:** September 26, 2015, 05:49:35 pm »

Thanks once again chaps. So if I make the coaming 20mm and the top a good fit over it (just slack enough to come off easily), am I correct in assuming that it won't need any kind of seal/gasket?

Netleyned · « **Reply #87 on:** September 26, 2015, 06:09:08 pm »

Not had a seal or gasket on mine Norman.
They are not built for speed so as soon as you see
a bow wave over the front just ease the throttle back a tad
and all will be ok.

Ned

Arrow5 · « **Reply #88 on:** September 26, 2015, 09:35:50 pm »

and don't have anything electrical in the bilges, just in case

malcolmfrary · « **Reply #89 on:** September 27, 2015, 03:09:21 pm »

Quote from: Netleyned on September 26, 2015, 06:09:08 pm

Not had a seal or gasket on mine Norman.
They are not built for speed so as soon as you see
a bow wave over the front just ease the throttle back a tad
and all will be ok.

Ned

And don't launch it "overarm for distance" unless the top is very firmly fixed.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #90 on:** September 27, 2015, 04:10:36 pm »

...or if you have a full load of stones.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #91 on:** September 27, 2015, 05:47:43 pm »

Well, I thought I was going to get through the weekend without another question, but alas no ...

I'm using this rudder assembly, and I'm currently engaged upon the trial installation. The necessary woodwork is done to ensure that both the flange at the lower end of the threaded sleeve and the nut that goes on from the top of it will sit square to the axis the hole. But when I fit this for real, what do I use to seal the wet side joint face? I don't trust that O-ring!

Arrow5 · « **Reply #92 on:** September 27, 2015, 07:40:33 pm »

Keep the O-ring and pack the tube with Vaseline or similar.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #93 on:** September 27, 2015, 07:52:18 pm »

Thank you, sir

Arrow5 · « **Reply #94 on:** September 27, 2015, 08:07:43 pm »

I would advise filing and punching the rivets out and soldering a square Springer sized brass sheet version with "fish-tail" or a diamond square tube on trailing edge. Adjust throw to 45* , watch the arm doesn't hit the transom.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #95 on:** September 28, 2015, 07:28:51 am »

Gosh, the list of improvements to make and things to do differently next time is getting longer by the day! Right now though the emphasis is on getting used to working in something other than balsa and getting this thing floating and working, so I'll stick with this rudder for the time being.

What's the odds on me getting away with one of these for a rudder servo?

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #96 on:** September 28, 2015, 08:04:57 am »

Smaller than usual but no issue really!

Torque: 1.2kg/cm @ 4.8v, 1.4kg/cm @ 6v
Weight: 10g
Speed: 0.10/60deg @ 4.8v, 0.09/60deg @ 6v
Voltage: 4.8v~6v
Plug: JR

Arrow5 · « **Reply #97 on:** September 28, 2015, 08:17:04 am »

...and being offered at £1.41 . What do YOU think

Norman Castle · « **Reply #98 on:** September 28, 2015, 08:55:54 am »

Quote from: Arrow5 on September 28, 2015, 08:17:04 am

...and being offered at £1.41 . What do YOU think

I don't know. That's why I asked. I'm sorry to be clueless, but my only reference is that I've been using these on several 48" wingspan model aircraft for the last two years never had a problem with any of them. However, I have no idea how that might translate to a model boat rudder. And I can't afford to buy a new servo if one of these will do. I'm over budget already ...

Arrow5 · « **Reply #99 on:** September 28, 2015, 09:09:03 am »

Simple mod to commercial rudder, plasticard or other square regulation size sheet wrapped and epoxied round cut-off rudder blade. Just to keep you an honest Springerist

Next pic shows the more intimate parts of a Springer`s nether regions for a little bit of titillation ..ooh er.

Scoops and scallops etc. Servo , you've answered your own question, use it and hope it works. 48" aircraft ? foamy perhaps but not turbine 200mph job I`ll bet.

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Author Topic: Norman's Springer (Read 104552 times)