Topic: Norman's Springer (Read 72237 times)

thething84 · « **Reply #50 on:** September 21, 2015, 09:54:58 pm »

only problem is if you pack it with grease you can cause to much friction on the shaft which puts excess load on your motor. Better to have small amount of grease in the outter tube so to leave a film on the shaft. Or fit an oiler tube to the inner end.

James

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #51 on:** September 21, 2015, 10:08:09 pm »

Mmm that's probably true James I never thought of that as I was fitting a slightly over powered brushless motor and the friction actually helps........

There you go Norman, my boats almost finished and been in the water a few times and I'm still learning. (Info stored for future builds)...... U2

derekwarner · « **Reply #52 on:** September 21, 2015, 10:15:08 pm »

One must be cautious when their advertisement quotes..... "Material - Stainless Steel Inner Tube and Outer Shaft"

I am sure we know what they mean, however that is not what they are saying....

... Derek

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #53 on:** September 21, 2015, 10:43:28 pm »

Ah Derek I see your eye for detail that never misses a trick is not just trained on photographs but wording as well, let's just hope it's not a stainless steel inner and outer (made of water absorbing papier-mâché) ha ha ha

How you saw the submarine and knew the names of the ships in the photo in the other post is beyond me, you must have eagle eyes, a big encyclopaedia and too much time on your hands..... Ha ha ha! U2

Oops, hijacking the thread......... Sorry

Unsinkable 2 · « **Reply #54 on:** September 21, 2015, 10:49:15 pm »

At the risk of hijacking the thread further I just realised that I read it wrong "inner TUBE" doh

Just goes to show how strong the wine is here in France.........

You can have your thread back now Norman........normal service is resumed!

derekwarner · « **Reply #55 on:** September 21, 2015, 11:36:16 pm »

Just a part of my training U2

.....and the Wine in OZ is pretty good too

....Derek

Norman Castle · « **Reply #56 on:** September 24, 2015, 09:59:32 am »

Sorry gents but yet another question coming up ...

I'm not far off working out my motor mounting, and for that I need to know how best to align it. Now, as I understand it, the general idea with a Springer is to keep the propshaft aligned with the waterline, and I'll be doing just that. Even though the coupling will be this one, am I correct in assuming that it'll still pay me to align the motor shaft as near to co-axial as I can get it?

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #57 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:35:49 am »

It is not imperative that the prop tube has be aligned with the water level. Most of them are tilted slightly downwards, which is why they use your coupler shown.

The main problem is due to the original height of the motors shaft from the base line deep in the hull.

Hope this helps

ken

Dave Cook · « **Reply #58 on:** September 24, 2015, 10:46:21 am »

Hi Norman , Yes you should aline best you can without the coupling this will minimize vibration . The way i do this is make a adaptor m4 or m5 to suit your shaft and a hole in the other side to suit your motor shaft , chock up your motor mount till the adaptor that as been screwed on the prop shaft will slide over the motor shaft with no obstruction then epoxy the motor mount in place with the adaptor in position.
Regards Dave

Stavros · « **Reply #59 on:** September 24, 2015, 11:45:11 am »

Another way of doing it is to simply use insulation tape over the coupling thus in effect making it a solid coupling.....this way the motor and shaft will be in perfect allignment......obviously when everything is glued and screwed down you remove the tape

Dave

Norman Castle · « **Reply #60 on:** September 24, 2015, 01:05:36 pm »

Great! Many thanks for the helpful tips

Fastfaz · « **Reply #61 on:** September 24, 2015, 01:19:01 pm »

Hi,
I agree with all the above and another way which I have used very successfully is to align everything with the coupling made solid (I tape pieces of scrap timber around it) have the motor fixed to its base I then fix the base to the hull using a good quality silicone such as "Forever". Have the motor connected to your battery, watch how it spins and push the base down onto the silicone until you are happy with it being straight level and in line with the shaft. LEAVE IT to dry out overnight and there you go, the added bonus is that the silicone acts as a shock absorber (don't use cheap crap from the pound shop) and should you need to remove the base at a later date it can be done without destroying the hull.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Faz.

Martin [Admin] · « **Reply #62 on:** September 24, 2015, 01:48:42 pm »

Hi Norman!

I've merged all your post here.
It's easier for us all to follow your build / progress and answer all your questions in one place!

Martin

Norman Castle · « **Reply #63 on:** September 24, 2015, 02:33:38 pm »

Much obliged, Martin. That made a huge amount of sense!

Martin [Admin] · « **Reply #64 on:** September 24, 2015, 03:34:59 pm »

Re: shafts and couplings, see:

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Builds/Puffer_Jan/Part_4.htm

Arrow5 · « **Reply #65 on:** September 24, 2015, 03:56:12 pm »

If you replace the centre section(red bit) with silicon tube it will be much a quieter boat. Exhaust pipe for a 40 or 60 size glow motor, tight push fit over splines from your aeromodelling days. Fit grub screws at 180* to each other, not on same side as shown above. This photo shows fitting for a non-threaded end type of of propshaft, prop end will have thread to suit propellor and lock nut.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #66 on:** September 24, 2015, 05:40:10 pm »

Good idea, arrow5, but alas I don't have any suitable tubing. I couldn't be doing with those awful noisy infernal combustion engines in my aircraft ...

Arrow5 · « **Reply #67 on:** September 24, 2015, 05:51:37 pm »

Shame you missed some of life`s joys. The smell of castor oil and ether in the morning, the chug chug of a 4stroke Laser, the whine of a 2stroke at 20,000 rpm. Oh what bliss

. but I digress, you only need an inch , check your pals` flight boxes.

Norman Castle · « **Reply #68 on:** September 24, 2015, 05:58:05 pm »

Quote from: Arrow5 on September 24, 2015, 05:51:37 pm

Shame you missed some of life's joys. The smell of castor oil ...

Oh no I didn't - vintage bike racing and a mate with a Scott kept me topped up with the smell of burnt Castrol R for long enough!

Fastfaz · « **Reply #69 on:** September 24, 2015, 07:55:23 pm »

Oh the howl of a two stroke (has to be a racing motorbike)! there is nothing like it. Sadly the two stroke race bike a few and far between except in the classic races. I used "Motul 800" fully synthetic and no seizures all year and boy did that Yamaha get some grief from me during the season, previous owner ran it on R40 which was a nice smell but not condusive to winning races as in "to finish first, first you have to finish. Happy days.
Cheers,
Faz.

Arrow5 · « **Reply #70 on:** September 24, 2015, 08:12:19 pm »

Quote from: Norman Castle on September 24, 2015, 05:58:05 pm

Oh no I didn't - vintage bike racing and a mate with a Scott kept me topped up with the smell of burnt Castrol R for long enough!

So do we have the Springer`s name now ..."Squirrel"

Norman Castle · « **Reply #71 on:** September 25, 2015, 06:50:49 am »

Quote from: Arrow5 on September 24, 2015, 08:12:19 pm

So do we have the Springer`s name now ..."Squirrel"

Only if it needs water-cooling

Arrow5 · « **Reply #72 on:** September 25, 2015, 08:31:33 am »

Ha ha

Netleyned · « **Reply #73 on:** September 25, 2015, 08:46:01 am »

That's the way to do it

Ned

Dave Cook · « **Reply #74 on:** September 25, 2015, 10:31:41 am »

Castrol R now that brings back great memories

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Author Topic: Norman's Springer (Read 72237 times)

Stavros