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Author Topic: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?  (Read 3070 times)

plastic

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Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« on: September 15, 2015, 07:09:00 PM »

Hi All

I've just received a couple of Revell VIIC subs with the decks missing - they are flat styrene parts with grill detailing moulded in.

Luckily, I have a 3rd VIIC with the decks so I'd like to clone them somehow.

Sooo - anyone else tried cloning flat parts or anyone got a sure-fire way of doing it?

My first thoughts are using a rolling pin to emboss the originals into soft clay to make shallow moulds.
Cut dimensionally accurate blanks from plasticard.
Paint some araldite into the mould to pick up the fine details and then press the styrene blanks into the wet araldite & moulds for the araldite to bond and the styrene blanks would form the structural base material.
When cured, trim the overflowed araldite off the new styrene decks back to their original sizes.

I'm hoping this would give me usable cloned parts.

Questions:
Would this work?
Will I end up in a mess?
Will ordinary slow-cure Aradite be the best/adequate thing to use? (it will only be tiny quantities used for the surface detail).

Thanks in advance.
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TailUK

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2015, 07:45:21 PM »

You can replicate parts in epoxy using modelling clay but for something as big as these parts I think you'd be struggling to keep them flat.  A better idea might be to try silicon bath sealer "buttered" on after mounting the deck parts on a flat surface.  Once the sealer sets use plaster of paris to make a "splint" around the silicon and then cast with the epoxy. the rigid plaster will keep the rubber mould in shape.  The sealer will smell very strongly of Acetic Acid (Vinegar) so best do it away from anyone else.
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plastic

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2015, 09:42:07 PM »

Thanks for that - seems like a good idea!

I'll have a play with some silicone....
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DavieTait

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2015, 09:57:20 PM »

can't you order replacement decks from Revell ?? or would it not be easier ( and cheaper ) to get hold of the laser cut wood or brass decks for the model ?
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Brian60

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #4 on: September 16, 2015, 06:53:35 PM »

I'm currently using the silicone sealer method to make a mould of some parts. Yours will be quite a thing layer of silicone so a days curing should be enough for it to set. Mine is quite thick so its been put to one side for a few days. Then just make up some resin and pour in. For small amounts of resin nip to Halfords and get a grp car repair kit, there will be enough resin to do your parts. Quick tip, be quick with it as it is pre accelerated, it will go hard in a few minutes! Also pour it into your mould and then brush it into the crevices with a throw away brush, otherwise you might find it has pinholes and bits missing where the fluid didn't settle properly, then top off with the remainder to your desired level.

plastic

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2015, 07:51:16 PM »

I'm currently using the silicone sealer method to make a mould of some parts. Yours will be quite a thing layer of silicone so a days curing should be enough for it to set. Mine is quite thick so its been put to one side for a few days. Then just make up some resin and pour in. For small amounts of resin nip to Halfords and get a grp car repair kit, there will be enough resin to do your parts. Quick tip, be quick with it as it is pre accelerated, it will go hard in a few minutes! Also pour it into your mould and then brush it into the crevices with a throw away brush, otherwise you might find it has pinholes and bits missing where the fluid didn't settle properly, then top off with the remainder to your desired level.

What do you use as a base to put the parts on to hold them down to be siliconed - that peels off easily after?
I'm thinking possibly tin foil base over mdf with double-sided tape to hold the parts down.
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Brian60

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2015, 09:22:13 PM »

I have a video link from a plastic modeller, but basically use a sheet of newspaper but a big splodge in the centre, then using gloved hands, disposible ones! smear the silicone on your master part. Then just push into your big splodge, then wait for it to set. I have a splodge with several pieces in its been 'curing' since tuesday ( might not be set before we go back to UK on sunday!) :} but its a big splodge {-) Use the clear its easier to see where the parts are!

http://www.plasticmodelsworld.com/node/1373

TailUK

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #7 on: September 18, 2015, 11:01:48 AM »

Mmmmm! That's one way of doing it, I suppose.  I, personally think it could be done with a bit more finesse.  That said, he did turn out the parts in the end, so what ever gets the job done.  The big advantage of using the bath sealer rather than liquid silicon is the it's thixatropic so it can spread around and stays where it's put and it has a fairly long curing time so you have time to ensure you've not got any air pockets.
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tigertiger

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #8 on: September 18, 2015, 11:24:52 AM »

Tech question for those who may know.


Is there the technology, readily available, to 3D scan and then 3D print such things?
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DavieTait

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #9 on: September 18, 2015, 11:47:11 AM »

http://www.makerscanner.com/

Looks like a lot of people starting to design and build open source 3d scanners now
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TailUK

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Re: Cloning flat styrene deck parts?
« Reply #10 on: September 18, 2015, 12:50:34 PM »

Tech question for those who may know.


Is there the technology, readily available, to 3D scan and then 3D print such things?

Technically, Yes.  There are many devices available to scan 3D objects.  In fact you should be able to do it with a smart phone but the resolution will be poor.  The big roadblock is that most of the scanned files are not compatible with good quality 3d printers or the software to run 3D Routers.  The files can be converted using specialist software but it's high end at the moment and not readily available to the hobbyist.  Lots of sources for the files are available,  3D printing can be done using laser scanning,  CAT scans or other medical scans but as before it's pretty specialist software. 
In reality, until the technology improves a little, it's easier to draw the object using CAD software that is already compatible with the 3D printer.
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