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Author Topic: Using plasticard  (Read 4602 times)

Norman Castle

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Using plasticard
« on: December 02, 2015, 08:09:52 PM »

I'm going to have a bit of a play with some plasticard with a view to using it for some small bits and bobs of a superstructure and I've never used the stuff before.  I have my little bottle of MEK to weld it together with, but what do I use as filler with plasticard, like to make a fillet along a right-angled join?

Also, the LMS has a wide variety of styrene sections in handy packs (tube, girder, strip, angle and so on), but it's all "Evergreen" brand from the States and it's awful dear (at least to my way of thinking).  Is there a cheaper alternative for small styrene tube and angle?
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cos918

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #1 on: December 02, 2015, 08:36:16 PM »

Hello
On the shapes question . NO is the short answer Plastruct or evergreen are about the same price . The quality is is good but expensive.
You can use model filler ,squadron green or white filler


john
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plastic

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #2 on: December 02, 2015, 08:45:45 PM »

If you look on Ebay, there are sometimes bumper packs available for a tenner.

I got one a couple of years ago of all sorts of combinations of square, rectangle & round tubes of lots of different diameters and sizes along with girders and angle.
all about 2 foot long in a bundle about 3 inches in diameter.

Great value - Still only half way through it.  :-))
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Arrow5

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2015, 09:52:38 PM »

www.anticsonline.co.uk  have a nice illustrated list with drawings and sizes of plastruct shapes, includes tubes, square tube, angles, Z s, girders, ladders and railings etc.   A handy reference, don't know how prices compare.  Slaters do vac-formed brick and stone sections for model rail layouts , interesting.
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CGAux26

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2015, 09:53:16 PM »

If you are looking to slightly thicken MEK, cut some styrene into small pieces and add it to the MEK container.  After sitting overnight the styrene dissolves into the MEK.  Works great, I built my Model Slipways Loyal tender with, several years ago.  All seams are still strong and tight.
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Andyn

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2015, 09:56:37 PM »

For fillets get yourself some good thick cyano (Roket Max works great) and kicker. Far easier than dissoving expensive plasticard
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CGAux26

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2015, 10:02:02 PM »

I just snip up the small cutoffs that result when the big pieces are removed from the die cut sheets.
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david48

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2015, 10:57:14 PM »

 I can recommend this for plasticard / ABS /  Butyrate from EMA Model Supplies ,also there is a company in York who make and sell architectural plasticard profile they do some very good magnetic clamps ,there are two sets but are a bit dear. Sorry there's no link I will do a search and post it later .
David
http://www.ema-models.co.uk/index.php/review/product/list/id/5182/category/207/#review-form


Pin Flow ]Be the first to review this product  Availability: In stock.8.33Code: DM54
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ballastanksian

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2015, 11:29:17 PM »

Sorry Norman but the strips are not cheap, but they save you money on wasted sheet styrene and blunted blades in the long term.

Evergreen make longer strips but poorer rod (not always round and somethimes with a hole in it) while Plastruct make better rod.

I cut think styrene (1.5-2.5mm thick sheet) with a Stanley knife carefully! and the thinners sheets with a scalpel. You can cut it with a razor saw or bandsaw if you ave one, but take care as the hot plastic swarf will go soft and get under the cut causing some smal feed problems.and the si

It can be scribed and filed and laminated to make thick blocks and it can with care be heated and formed around things. To make rings, I roll thin styrene bands around useful items such as odd lengths of dowel or metal rod, or even tool handles, glueing as I wrap until I have a ring the right diameter and then let it dry out before removing. Sand the edges etc.

Plastic weld bottles have a nasty habit of falling over spilling onto your work:O( EMA sell a dispenser with push fill basin or you can drill a hole in a block of wood large enough to hold the bottle stable.

Not everyone likes plastic but it has its benefits. Bigger sheets are better value than the A4ish sized ones.
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Stavros

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2015, 11:51:10 PM »

Norman SSSSHHHHHHH now promse NOT TO TELL everyone about this tip......go down to your local builders merchant and buy some plastic pipe solvent cleaner....NOT the thick gluey one the one that is like water.....it is the SAME as the stuff in the bottles............FAR bigger and cheaper than the small bottles and is in a decent sized pot that wont fall over !!!!!!.......

PROMISE me NOT to TELL EVERYONE wink wink say no more haha



Dave
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ballastanksian

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #10 on: December 02, 2015, 11:57:30 PM »

Ooh, what did you whisper to Norman?  :-))
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2015, 12:15:03 AM »

Norman SSSSHHHHHHH now promse NOT TO TELL everyone about this tip......go down to your local builders merchant and buy some plastic pipe solvent cleaner....NOT the thick gluey one the one that is like water.....it is the SAME as the stuff in the bottles............FAR bigger and cheaper than the small bottles and is in a decent sized pot hat wont fall over !!!!!!.......

PROMISE me NOT to TELL EVERYONE wink wink say no more haha



Dave


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david48

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2015, 09:01:18 AM »

Here is the link to  York model making  .    http://www.yorkmodelmaking.co.uk/useful-bits?limit=50     
Not bought any ,I saw them at York Railway Show .
David
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Norman Castle

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2015, 10:16:43 AM »

Thank you once again, gentlemen.  And don't worry Dave, the secret's safe with me. 
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barriew

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2015, 01:09:04 PM »

Cornwall Model Boats sell Raboesch plastic profiles and you can buy single lengths if you want. I use Revell Polystyrene Cement - it comes in a handy dispenser with a fine metal tube. Easy to apply just the right amount, also doesn't dry as quickly as MEK liquids - useful if you have a long seam to glue.
Finally I can endorse the York Modellers clamps - expensive (gone up since I bought mine) but invaluable for getting square corners. There are alternatives on the market.


Barrie
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cos918

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #15 on: December 03, 2015, 06:41:27 PM »

With Raboesch I find it does not glue as well evergreen or plastruct when using plastic weld or revell glue


john
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ballastanksian

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #16 on: December 03, 2015, 08:15:31 PM »

Raboesh is a slightly different plastic that has a little styrene in it but not enough to weld with model glues. I wonder if the pipeweld glues this as well?

If only there was someone who could answer this question on here.......... ok2
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Stavros

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #17 on: December 03, 2015, 10:43:21 PM »

MMMM NEVER had a problem with that stuff HA HA wink wink


Dave
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ballastanksian

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Re: Using plasticard
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2015, 09:52:12 PM »

 ok2
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