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[aln101boat]

Hello all,
Bought two new Viper 20s to run a pair of 700 motors.
Connected everything up and switched on to calibrate ESCs. This all seemed to work according to the instructions which were straightforward.
The only bit which seemed odd was no "save" or "exit" input was specified. Anyway, I switched them off and on again.
Both controllers show the correct LEDs when the sticks are moved, but one motor didn't move at all, and the other only astern.
There was the apparently normal loud whine while the motor was going astern and the control was very smooth up to full astern.
After waggling both sticks ahead and astern, getting gradually more frustrated, I switched it all off and on again.
Now neither motor moves at all, and no whine????
I tried recalibrating them a few times on the assumption that I was missing a step. To no avail. The procedure is very simple, and Iv'e seen it mentioned in an other post while searching.
I tried another newer Tx and Rx out of curiosity as it has been mentioned that modern ESCs might not like my old Futaba M. Just the same.
I'm at a loss to see how both ESCs could be faulty. It's much more likely I'm the common denominator.
Iv'e sent an Email to Mtroniks, but they are closed for the festive season, bah humbug.
Any ideas?
Alan
 
 

[mudway]

I assume you have the 2 escs plugged into the receiver. Have you disconnected the BEC in one  by cutting the positive lead on the receiver plug?

[aln101boat]

I assume you have the 2 escs plugged into the receiver. Have you disconnected the BEC in one  by cutting the positive lead on the receiver plug?

Dedicated Rx battery. Both red leads cut on ESCs. I have plenty of room/weight to spare, and I don't like BECs.
rgds Alan

[aln101boat]

Dedicated Rx battery. Both red leads cut on ESCs. I have plenty of room/weight to spare, and I don't like BECs.
rgds Alan

Sorry for the ambiguity. Red leads cut on both ESCs

[Sub driver]

Hi.
try this again....you have to be very quick in pressing that button when switching on almost instantaniously
Switch tranny on
Plug 1 speedo in the chanel you require make sure all trims set to zero plug rx battery in switched off plug drive batt in and make sure separate speedo switch is off.
Now switch speedo switch and rx battery on and should have red / green lights flashing very quickly press the button then  move throttle to max should have solid green then move throttle to max reverse should have solid red now move stick back to centre and leave alone......there is no save or exit prompt the speedo does this when you re center the stick itself now after re centering a few secs it should be ok.
Now repeat for other speedo
Hope that makes sense...if it still doesnt work try setting with bec ie red wire connected as you will switch power on with the speedo switch.
Good luck.
Sub.

[unbuiltnautilus]

Have you tried testing them on lower current motors, I would have suggested at least 25amp units per motor for 700s. What voltage are you running on?

[malcolmfrary]

What sub driver said, but make sure that the channel reverse on the TX is set to N (probably R on Futaba).  The self programming part of the ESC is expecting a neutral signal, then a longer pulse for full forward, then a shorter one for reverse.  Changing the order could confuse things.
Is there anything in the instructions about reverting to "factory" settings?  Inadvertent pressing of the button might have changed something, and its usually good to start from a common point.

[aln101boat]

Have you tried testing them on lower current motors, I would have suggested at least 25amp units per motor for 700s. What voltage are you running on?

Hi.
try this again....you have to be very quick in pressing that button when switching on almost instantaniously
Switch tranny on
Plug 1 speedo in the chanel you require make sure all trims set to zero plug rx battery in switched off plug drive batt in and make sure separate speedo switch is off.
Now switch speedo switch and rx battery on and should have red / green lights flashing very quickly press the button then  move throttle to max should have solid green then move throttle to max reverse should have solid red now move stick back to centre and leave alone......there is no save or exit prompt the speedo does this when you re center the stick itself now after re centering a few secs it should be ok.
Now repeat for other speedo
Hope that makes sense...if it still doesnt work try setting with bec ie red wire connected as you will switch power on with the speedo switch.
Good luck.
Sub.

Yep, that's what I'm doing. The LEDs come up in the right order, and after Iv'e finished it all looks fine. Red and Green at neutral,  go out briefly when stick moved and Green on at full ahead/ Red on at full astern.
It all looks like the ESCs are happy with the setup.
No servo reverse on the old Futaba M. The later Futaba I also tried does have servo reverse on all channels and I checked them.
I removed about a 5mm section from the red wires and sealed it over neatly with soft epoxy, so no BEC.
The motors would be running unloaded, so I doubt if current would be a concern. I tried on 6v and 12v. It was on 6v that the one motor briefly ran astern Ok.
There is nothing in the instructions about resets or the like, but it may be secretly available.
Alan

[aln101boat]

 
Just to eliminate things one by one, tried a motor directly on 6v, draw 2.5A. On 12v, draw 3.5A. I'd be seriously upset if these draw much more than 10A each loaded.
Now its more confusing.
Tried the system on 12v. Supply on, but ESCs small power switch off. One of the motors ran slowly astern.
Switched on the small ESC power switch, motor stopped, LEDs flashed for two seconds and then fixed.
Tried moving stick ahead, nothing. Moved stick astern, motor immediately ran at full speed until stick returned to neutral, motor stopped. Didn't get a full astern red led.
The other ESC switched on, LEDs correct and follow stick movement correctly, but no motor as before.
Alan

[Netleyned]

Somewhere back in tme I had a problem and UNbuiltnautilus came to the rescue with a setup
programme using the button to set the parameters needed.
If he thinks the problem is too big a motor on 20 A then
it could be a problem.
Even off load a motor's startup current may be a tad high for a 20A esc.


Ned

[malcolmfrary]

Tried the system on 12v. Supply on, but ESCs small power switch off. One of the motors ran slowly astern.
Switched on the small ESC power switch, motor stopped, LEDs flashed for two seconds and then fixed.

The small switch operates the ESCs BEC, determining whether or not the control part of the ESC does anything or not.  If the motor does anything other than just sit and look at you with the switch off, then there is something amiss with the output stage of that ESC.  It is getting no instructions from the unpowered control half to do anything, it should do nothing.
The flashing light interval is when it is indicating that it is ready to learn.

[timg]

Hi Alan


I like and use mtroniks speed controller's,  when I set up the controller I need to have the motor connection's disconnected.
Hope this helps
Good luck

Spud

[aln101boat]

The small switch operates the ESCs BEC

Aha, thanks. I did wonder exactly where this little switch came into play. Yes, its looking like there is a fault at play here.
 
"I like and use mtroniks speed controller's,  when I set up the controller I need to have the motor connection's disconnected".
Hmmm, haven't heard that suggestion before, but its worth a try.
Alan
 

[aln101boat]

Remiss of me.
A good new year to you all!
rgds Alan

[unbuiltnautilus]

Somewhere back in tme I had a problem and UNbuiltnautilus came to the rescue with a setup
programme using the button to set the parameters needed.
If he thinks the problem is too big a motor on 20 A then
it could be a problem.
Even off load a motor's startup current may be a tad high for a 20A esc.


Ned

Well the bad news is that the various programme parameters that were available in previous batches, have been programmed out, preventing many of the old problems with accidentally disabling reverse etc. It does also sound like there could be some sort of fault occurring with the units.
The old M Series sets worked at a different 'pulse width' of, I think, 1.3ms as opposed to more modern 1.5ms rates of modern sets. This may also be the cause of your problem. Check the Vipers in another model on another set and see what is what...worst case, you may have a duff pair. There were problems with some of the Viper 20s about three or four years ago, which Mtroniks were great about replacing. Worth considering if they are older controllers.

[aln101boat]

Well the bad news is that the various programme parameters that were available in previous batches, have been programmed out, preventing many of the old problems with accidentally disabling reverse etc. It does also sound like there could be some sort of fault occurring with the units.
The old M Series sets worked at a different 'pulse width' of, I think, 1.3ms as opposed to more modern 1.5ms rates of modern sets. This may also be the cause of your problem. Check the Vipers in another model on another set and see what is what...worst case, you may have a duff pair. There were problems with some of the Viper 20s about three or four years ago, which Mtroniks were great about replacing. Worth considering if they are older controllers.

HaHa, looks like you followed the paramount rule of only reading the most recent post .
Two new controllers straight out of the boxes, and also tried with a later 35Mhz Futaba Tx/Rx
rgds Alan

[Netleyned]

HaHa, looks like you followed the paramount rule of only reading the most recent post .
Two new controllers straight out of the boxes, and also tried with a later 35Mhz Futaba Tx/Rx
rgds Alan

Hope you checked the Model Flying Club's Frequency board before use 


Ned

[aln101boat]

Hope you checked the Model Flying Club's Frequency board before use 


Ned

Oh****, that's what that noise was.

[unbuiltnautilus]

HaHa, looks like you followed the paramount rule of only reading the most recent post .
Two new controllers straight out of the boxes, and also tried with a later 35Mhz Futaba Tx/Rx
rgds Alan

In my defence.......nope, got nothing

[unbuiltnautilus]

Having now read all the posts, the instant full astern described sounds like a faulty unit, that should be proportional. stick em in a jiffy and post them back to the nice people at Mtroniks.

[aln101boat]

Thought you should see what the discussion's about.
The Stbd V&A meter seems to be a duff, which is why its not showing anything. I seem to be a bit unlucky with electronics
I hope this works, as the preview doesn't show the pics
 

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Lovely presentation pictures. very tidy layout.   

ps .....  The preview button does not show pictures, but you have half an hour to add them after posting.  Hope this helps

ken

[HMS Invisible]

Alan, do you still have electrical continuity from the cathodes of the 3-pin plug to Tamiya plug?

[aln101boat]

Alan, do you still have electrical continuity from the cathodes of the 3-pin plug to Tamiya plug?

Whoa there. You'll need to explain, though I'm guessing youre referring to something between the servo plug and the Tamiya.
Cathodes negative? Never could remember cause electrons go the other way to DC.
Alan

[HMS Invisible]

Connectors unplugged, between brown and the Tamiya plug's black cable, what is the resistance?
Does the faulty V&A meter work outside of that installation?
It is just a hunch.