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[Hande]

Getting there...
The pin that I use to press the putty against the corner is a telescope pointer that I have already cannibalised/repurposed for the back sailing light (reported above). The long obsolete pointers are having their renaissance these days 


There are 116 corners to make round and I didn't make it without setbacks:
- broken frame "obechis"
- broken-in-two of the backward top row of windows
The thing is - when you attempt to execute by a process of mass production, you will eventually become lazy/weary and not be careful with each and every pressing against the corner 

[Hande]

Wheelhouse approaching assembly. I realise that most of Mayhemmers assemble first and then paint. But I have learned as kid that I should first paint and then assemble - I don't even know where I got it, but it sticks. With the wheelhouse I thought no way I'm going to paint the inside, when it's assembled.


After a lot of sanding, painting, varnishing, resanding, repainting and revarnishing I got to a stage where I decided I cannot do better - and stopped.


I try to think of _everything_ in advance concerning windows. In which order should I paint, varnish, assemble the windows and assemble the whole wheelhouse..? I have got 1mm plexi glass and dark film - and a plan to first attach the dark film, then cut the windows as accurately as I can, glue them with canopy glue and then varnish, with the protective film on the outside of the windows. Then I only hope the protective film comes off nice and clean. Credits are due to Taranis, who is ahead of me (both in skill and time) with his windows [size=78%]Quote[/size][/size][size=78%].[/size]

[Taranis]

The wood grain is well disguised, nice paint finish 


I assemble pre painting but make everything so I can take it apart again. Most of my fittings and fixtures use no glue at all. I use machine screws pins or just a tight fit.

[Hande]

And then to something completely different:


I have learned that the funnels have been modified on almost every smit Nederland sister ship. So is it with Delfi, too.
Instead of a flap on a round hole (which I presume is the end of the funnel) the end of the funnel is extended well out of the funnel housing. I decided to simulate the modified version.


I made these from scrap 


I know... But I really made them out of scrap copper pipe that I dug from snow in the back of the shed in the back of our garden.


These are slightly too large for the scale - I guess we will see, if I have to make them anew in case they really are TOO large.

[Hande]

Further to something completely different:


I received the deck crane from Bauer, Germany. I'm eager to see how well it fits the scale.
And I need to figure out how it is installed onto the main towing bollard, as per Delfi.
I really need to visit Delfi, but she is presently in Norway.

[Hande]

The wood grain is well disguised, nice paint finish 

Good word from a master is always welcome! Thank you Andy. I have the disadvantage of being able look at my work really close. Every now and then, I try to step back a step or two in order to lose focus on the smallest detail. From a little distance, some aspects are not that bad at all


Myself, I'm happy about how my round corners are disguised. They were quite a challenge 

[Hande]

It's such a shame to paint the funnels over ...
But there's no realism whatsoever in glowing copper funnels, is there?

[radiojoe]

Excellent work on the funnels 


Joe.

[Hande]

Thank you, Joe!
I’m glad to see that you pay attention to my long journey

[Hande]

I knew the wheel house windows weren't going to be easy, but wow, how not-easy they are !!!
I'm following Andy's build with awe and picked up a recommendation by Mark T concerning canopy glue. It did save my build from a bitter catastrophy, I'm sure. - THANK YOU MARK!




Also, I'm having second thoughts about the shading.
The shading of the plexi glass went well after one practise round. But now that I have made four windows of the sides, I'm wondering whether all windows should be shaded or just some.


The windows look ok from far away, but don't put your glasses on, if you want to see them from a short distance!

[Capt Podge]

I'm wondering whether all windows should be shaded or just some.

I guess it's really down to how much of the inside you would prefer to be seen Hande

anyway, nice work on those door and window frames

Ray.

[Taranis]

They look excellent Hande. You are braver than me! despite numerous pieces of advice I'm reluctant to put any form of sticky stuff anywhere near my glazing. I'm quite confident that mine will not fall out but if one or two do I will risk it with those alone. So far all 36 are as tight as a duck's **** 


EDIT
Actually a guy on facebook overseas says that everyone he knows uses a clear setting wood glue and they apply it with a needle around the edge. Sounds good and it works for them.

[Hande]

Quoting myself:

Also, I noticed that the kit instructions totally neglect the split windows (two front windows and one on each side).
Simulating the "split" is an other thing to ponder... Maybe, if I stretch a strip of plasticard across - I guess that would do the job?

Here's my take on the split window. Out of the six finished windows, this turned out best by far. It's a snug fit and clean. - If only I could repeat the performance with the remaining windows. I have concluded that setbacks and successes are greatly influenced by the builder's mood, or other state of mind. But it's difficult to know in advance, what your state is when you start.

[Hande]

Actually a guy on facebook overseas says that everyone he knows uses a clear setting wood glue and they apply it with a needle around the edge. Sounds good and it works for them.

Based on some experience now - I think the canopy glue is exactly that: general purpose glue that sets clear. To call it "canopy glue" is a way to add premium to the price.


Otherwise - I don't suggest you use needles in conjunction with windows or other delicate surfaces. Out of old habbit, I cut very thin and sharp "needles" out of cocktail sticks/matches. No scratches when applying the glue or other stuff. And you can cut it to be flat-ended so you can remove the excess canopy glue without any marks on a delicate surface.

And that's where the "canopy glue" is terrific! If there is excess glue coming out the seams, you just rub it off gently (not with needles) - even when its cured.

[Capt Podge]

Hiya Hande, when I built my Neddy the 'split' glazing was already there in the supplied bits.
Anyway, you seem to have made a good job of it on yours.


The canopy glue I used is called 'Formula 560'. I bought it in 1998 and it's still working even now 


Anyway, keep it up Hande, you're doing fine. 


Ray.

[Hande]

The sides being finished.
The secret behind the sliding doors - naturally the slides.
A fair simulation, as they don't show from any viewing angle.


The solution offered by Billings was far too complicated.

[Hande]

The canopy glue I used is called 'Formula 560'. I bought it in 1998 and it's still working even now 

Ray.

I got exactly the same "Formula 560". Amazing it lasts forever!

[Hande]

Does someone have an idea for a source of model shipborne weather station?
Along the lines of these.
My Delfi-in-the-real-world has a number of weather instruents on top of the wheel house.

[Hande]

Started the assembly of the wheelhouse after the completion of first round of windows.


This is the order of assembly:
1. furniture except the main dashboard (I wonder what it's called really)
2. sides
3. back wall
4. front lower pieces - starboard and portside only
5. front lower pieces - middle
6. main dashboard to fit with the lower front pieces
7. front windows


The order is thought through many times and I hope it will work. The rationale is that first glue those parts that are straight (sides) and from there on advance toward the increasingly awkwardly angled pieces. Stage by stage the construction becomes more and more rigid as the components support each other and the whole becomes both self-supporting and straight. Namely all Billings plywood parts are bent in one direction or another. So I'm forcing them into the correct positions and using a strong glue (Gorilla). This is the plan anyway and I'm at stage 3. First pic stage 2, second one is the present state of affairs (stage 3).



I submit these into the contest of "Funniest glueing support contraptions"

(1)
The lead battery is needed to hold the floor straight, flat and still.
The huge lead bouillons press the sides against the floor.
(2)
The back wall is pressed against the sides and the floor - pressure has to be applied from three directions

Note the use of old telephone cards, wine bottle corks and tuned pegs.
You can also see the end of the bolt that fastens the detachable wheelhouse to the lower superstructure. (I have yet to figure out, how to install the (possible) lighting and (planned) radar wiring. Some multi-pole connector, I suppose)

[BrianB6]

Enginuity at it's best.

[canabus]

Hi


One problem with the boat is that you require some sort of sealing system between the deck and the lift out section.


Because any water over the deck goes straight inside the hull !!!


As my boat was already built when I bought it, I have angle cut some door draft stopper foam (with sticky back) under the deck sides.


It looks like it will work, but the forward section will require a fill in piece which I am working out.


Canabus

[Hande]

I have thought about this problem for months, Canabus.
There are three gaps that I need to seal
1. the sub-deck/main deck
2. lower superstructure/deck
3. wheel house/lower superstructure


I think I have found a liable solution: Loctite 5910


It is a special silicon that is meant for automotive motor parts sealing needs.
When you use it against the producer’s intention, it effectively becomes a liquid seal that, once cured, feels quite like rubber - not silicon. When I found this one, I didn’t think much about using a more common sanitary silicon the same way - maybe it works, too.


I have ”innovated” to find a solution for applying the silicon. I got it now for applying it along a straight edge (1st pic). But corners are still a problem (2nd pic). The self-made tool is shown in the 3rd pic. With practise, I may learn to run the applying tool around a corner - here masking is especially important.


CAUTION 1: remember masking (remove while the silicon still wet). I forgot it and caused a mess that can not be totally removed (it may show in the 2nd pic).


CAUTION 2: only use silicon product in your build after everything is painted and finished. Or be _extremely_ careful = brave. I forgot this rule only for the split second that it took to try the removable camera platform on the roof of the lower superstructure. Now I keep my fingers crossed when the time to paint the said roof comes! (the camera platform is the first one that I applied the ”liquid seal” under). Even if the seal-silicon had cured, there may be something left to make anything it touches unpaintable.

[Hande]

Something wrong with upload.
here’s the tool again

[Hande]

AGAIN?!?
If you are interested in the tool, save it in you computer to see it in correct proportions

[Hande]

I think I have found a liable solution: Loctite 5910

[size=78%] [/size]

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