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Author Topic: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug  (Read 70338 times)

Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #75 on: March 16, 2016, 10:24:46 PM »



I'm curious to know what the marked circle on the top is for ?

Regards,

Ray.


I found it in the diagrams. The circle-part belongs to the main towing winch.

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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #76 on: March 16, 2016, 11:49:11 PM »


I found it in the diagrams. The circle-part belongs to the main towing winch.



How very odd !

I can visualise the main winch part but don't recall having to cut a hole in a solid roof to get at it. :o

I'll have a look at my plans tomorrow.....it's got me bamboozled. %%

Regards,

Ray.
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oldiron

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #77 on: March 17, 2016, 03:11:51 AM »


I found it in the diagrams. The circle-part belongs to the main towing winch.

 I don't see that. the main towing winch is on the main deck tucked in against the deck house, not up where the wheel house is.

John
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #78 on: March 17, 2016, 07:06:07 AM »

Sorry, Oldiron. Yes, I know.


The circle is laser-cut through and it is to be removed from the top of the lower house, to be used in the assembly of the winch. The part number is 75/25 if you still have the part list.


Before I knew, what it is, I didn't dare take it away. (Hard to put back, if it would have had another function).





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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #79 on: March 17, 2016, 07:16:59 AM »

How very odd !

I can visualise the main winch part but don't recall having to cut a hole in a solid roof to get at it. :o

I'll have a look at my plans tomorrow.....it's got me bamboozled. %%

Regards,

Ray.


I have already seen that different year-models have had slightly different laser-cuts. The "instruction manuals" have inclusions and omissions that differ from year to year. I don't know exactly from what year my kit is from. The most notable difference between years is the way rudders are to be built. I have the version where the rudders had to be glued together out of a myriad little pieces of acrylic. Later models had solid brass ready-made rudders (which I would have preferred, to be sure - but I took it as a learning experience  :D [size=78%]).[/size]


The part 75/25 just occupies an empty space where the hole would not be seen once the kit is finished. I your case, the part was probably someplace else in the plywood sheets.

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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #80 on: March 18, 2016, 12:55:48 AM »

Hi Hande - yes, you are right about the differences in the production of the kits.

I must have one of the later versions, my rudders being a part of the fittings kit. If I had decided not to buy the fittings as extra cost, then there would have been no rudders in the box at all - crazy %%

Looking at the location where part 75/25 is cut away, will the wheelhouse floor cover the gap when you come to fit it? If so, you will need to find a way of covering it. :((

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #81 on: March 18, 2016, 07:49:35 AM »

In my version, the wheelhouse floor /part#51/ is solid, thus covering the hole. In this picture, the location can be seen more clearly.
If I can come up with an elegant fastening solution, I will not glue it on, but make it removable.



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #82 on: March 18, 2016, 07:59:42 AM »

Studying pictures of the full-size vessel that my model is being based on, I noticed that Billings has neglected the flag pole between the stocks. I know where it is to be attached. I tried to figure out, how it scales down to 1/33 and cut, filed and sanded a flag pole from scratch  :-)  The tip is 1 mm thick, which is still a little much scale-wise, but I didn't dare continue sanding - I may break it. It looks pretty much right.







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oldiron

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #83 on: March 18, 2016, 10:05:46 AM »

Studying pictures of the full-size vessel that my model is being based on, I noticed that Billings has neglected the flag pole between the stocks. I know where it is to be attached. I tried to figure out, how it scales down to 1/33 and cut, filed and sanded a flag pole from scratch  :-)  The tip is 1 mm thick, which is still a little much scale-wise, but I didn't dare continue sanding - I may break it. It looks pretty much right.

Nice work, but why not make it from brass rod and telescoping tubing soldered together? Must less time consuming and stronger in the long run.

John
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #84 on: March 18, 2016, 03:45:46 PM »

Thank you for the hint! I'll use it when this one breaks and a new one is due.


I don't have brass material at home. I looked for all kinds of things.
I am so new to this building hobby that everytime I need some material, I have to buy it. I suppose experienced builders have tons of useful stuff around - just a matter of looking around, huh?



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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #85 on: March 18, 2016, 03:52:44 PM »

On the telescopic idea - maybe the upper portions of an old car aerial or an old 27mhz Tx aerial.

Just a thought....

Regards,

Ray.
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #86 on: March 18, 2016, 04:16:53 PM »

Thank you for the hint! I'll use it when this one breaks and a new one is due.


I don't have brass material at home. I looked for all kinds of things.
I am so new to this building hobby that everytime I need some material, I have to buy it. I suppose experienced builders have tons of useful stuff around - just a matter of looking around, huh?


You must be the only Finn I know who doesn't have 4 generations of "useful" stuff stored somewhere  {-)
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oldiron

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #87 on: March 18, 2016, 04:19:55 PM »

Thank you for the hint! I'll use it when this one breaks and a new one is due.


I don't have brass material at home. I looked for all kinds of things.
I am so new to this building hobby that everytime I need some material, I have to buy it. I suppose experienced builders have tons of useful stuff around - just a matter of looking around, huh?

Your local hobby shop should carry K&S brass shapes and such.

John
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #88 on: March 18, 2016, 09:32:03 PM »


You must be the only Finn I know who doesn't have 4 generations of "useful" stuff stored somewhere  {-)


Oh, don't get me wrong, e2v; I have tons of _stuff_, but I seldom seem to have the _right stuff_  ;)
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #89 on: March 18, 2016, 09:42:45 PM »


Oh, don't get me wrong, e2v; I have tons of _stuff_, but I seldom seem to have the _right stuff_  ;)


Ah that makes sense.... We were looking for something in the shed last summer and found some brand new in box carburettors for a wartburg 311. My father in law had one before my wife was born! lol
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #90 on: March 25, 2016, 10:11:37 AM »

Carefully adding doors, ventilation openings, portholes. Starts to look like a vessel :-)



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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #91 on: March 26, 2016, 12:12:43 AM »

Looking good Hande.  :-))

Everything looking crisp and true....

Regards,

Ray.
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Brian60

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #92 on: March 26, 2016, 07:41:11 AM »

Hande. I don't want to be a spoilsport because this is a nice build. But you have glued the doors on back to front. The large flange should be against the superstructure wall. This is a welded flange that holds the door to the superstructure. You have the smaller part glued to the wall which is the actual opening part of the door. Check the photo I have enclosed.....

Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #93 on: March 26, 2016, 08:10:58 AM »

Brian, you are of course correct, but I fear you may have spoilt Hande's weekend!!
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derekwarner_decoy

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #94 on: March 26, 2016, 08:52:56 AM »

Isn't it a 50/50 split here Brian? %)

The sea door with the portlight is a companionway door...it has the smaller envelope size rectangular flange which is welded outer bulkhead wall & this seals against the black rubber seal as shown in the opened door

The sea door without the portlight is a machinery access door...it has a different constructed profile with the full face larger doubler flange being larger that the actual dimension of the sea door. This door would also have a similar/same black rubber seal as shown in the opened door

I was under the impression that the differing door structures were a function or requirement of the vessel Classification under the respective Insurance Codes in fireproof or explosion resistant ratings etc............... Derek
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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #95 on: March 26, 2016, 01:08:02 PM »

Oh dear, that means a number of us have made the mistake of staying true to the plans then.

My doors are rigged the same way as Hande - same for Oldiron.... %)

Well...mine are staying as they are. :P

Regards,

Ray.
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oldiron

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #96 on: March 26, 2016, 01:34:35 PM »

Oh dear, that means a number of us have made the mistake of staying true to the plans then.

My doors are rigged the same way as Hande - same for Oldiron.... %)

Well...mine are staying as they are. :P

Regards,

Ray.

  guess we all fell into that trap. not changing mine now.

John
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #97 on: March 26, 2016, 08:31:46 PM »

Brian60, don't worry about my sentiment (although I'm glad that I'm not alone  :D ).

I did study the real doors. Turned out there's no way I could have arrived anywhere near the real doors with Billings kit's parts. For once, the larger piece is the only one with the porthole in it. Second, that's how Billings drawings suggested the pieces should be glued. More than poor simulation of the doors in general, I don't sleep well due to the fact that the smaller pieces are way too thick and it makes the door look really funny, when you stop to think about it. I should have sanded them down way thinner.
I entertained different scenarios. I would have liked to simulate one or two of the doors (as well as the little vent doors) open, for instance, like they are in many photographs.

Well I decided that I stick to the original plan and build my tug from a kit, not from scratch, and relaxed some of my ambitions there.

Before I post pictures of my stair cases, I warn everbody about the fact that the kit does not support the building of them exactly according to the real vessel. At the risk of spoiling someone's weekend: count the steps! Especially in the portside staircase that has a platform some midway up. At late (or early, rather) hours I was getting desperate for not being able to match my build with the photo of the real vessel.
NOT a good idea to _mix_ kit pictures with those of the real ship! It's either or in many cases.

In some cases one can divert from the kit, though; Has anyone wondered how awkward is the line (I don't know the proper term) coming down from the mast to the front edge of the wheelhouse top (a lá Billings). I'm planning to attach two lines to the back corners of the wheelhouse, like Oldiron did - and more importantly like they go in the original Smit Finland/Ureka XIV.
 totally sympathise with scratch builders, now. I see the attraction in trying to come up with good simulations of the real vessel. Maybe something for future...

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #98 on: March 26, 2016, 09:02:29 PM »

She is coming along really well Hande! I am learning a few new ideas along the way.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #99 on: April 01, 2016, 08:24:22 AM »

I have been playing with my radio - it arrived on Tuesday.
The programming that I had done on my PC, and now loaded into the radio, worked great. I can switch between synchronised drive and tank drive by turning a switch. I removed one spring, so as to make both gimbals equal (for tank drive).

With a programmable radio and Action Electronics, I have a great number of degrees of freedom  :}

Now I need to adjust the rudder movement so that the Becker pins don't escape from their guiding holes.

The above means little progress in the dry dock. I attached the staircases last night, though.

Under the the port side stairs, I have disguised a rather ugly looking support structure as a cooling unit of air conditioning. The support was required to straighten up the the tail of port side bulkhead. Together with this support and the staircase glued in place, the curvature of the bulkhead is tolerable, although it didn't go away...


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