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Author Topic: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug  (Read 169544 times)

Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #100 on: April 01, 2016, 08:53:34 pm »

Electrics tray.


I reckoned there's plenty of room in the lower superstructure, so I built in 3 dimensions.

Everything is attached with velcro, except for the receiver tower and the elevated shelf of the P95 (motor power control), and the mains switch. For P92 (power distribution) the wires have to be unscrewed for the board removal.

Beneath there's a connector between P92 and the ESCs and the connector to the battery.

In to the below decks, there are cables for the rudder servo, motor power and the battery.

The pictures show the leds:
- On P95 both red and green are on: the motors are running in opposite directions, as per Tx programming.
- (other picture) On the ESCs the green lights are on: the motors have stopped (neutral) (At full throttle, both green and red lights are on.)

I wonder, how the Rx antennae should be hung. They shouldn't touch each other.



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ballastanksian

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #101 on: April 01, 2016, 09:29:41 pm »

Oh to have a voluminous hull! Looks good Hande, as does the superstructure. I cannot see any warpage so reckon your remedial work has suceeded.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #102 on: April 01, 2016, 09:41:16 pm »

Oh to have a voluminous hull! Looks good Hande, as does the superstructure. I cannot see any warpage so reckon your remedial work has suceeded.


You are kind, thank you!
Only do not not look too closely...  :embarrassed:
But you are right in the sense that when she's sailing over the pond, she'll look just right  :} . I managed to remedy the very worst with my special "air conditioning cooler unit"  O0
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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #103 on: April 02, 2016, 12:37:52 am »

Hi Hande - WOW, your electrical installation looks fantastic and oh, so neat (makes mine look like spaghetti) :D

I managed to remedy the very worst with my special "air conditioning cooler unit"  O0

That's a neat little solution you have created there - I must reluctantly point something out here though. Have a look at my thread, page 5, reply no.121, photos 4 & 5 - these show the generator? for the winch, which is tucked away almost where your a.c. unit is. Will you be able to squeeze it in or perhaps you have already thought of an alternative arrangement.

Regards,

Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #104 on: April 02, 2016, 08:49:31 am »

oops!!!  :o


One of the first advice that I got was:
"Study the plans, read and reread the instructions over again. Read and study AHEAD, so you know what's coming."


Did I do that, now? Did I follow the first rule, did I..?  :police: >:-o


I'll be back on this. I'm afraid it's going to be a _modified_ model build  :embarrassed: {:-{


Someone dismissed kit building as something where one just glues some parts together. Well, this is not like that. Not for an unexperienced builder it isn't anysway.

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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #105 on: April 02, 2016, 08:52:37 am »

Don't be too hard on yourself Hande, you are doing really well :-))
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #106 on: April 02, 2016, 09:12:38 am »

All consolation is welcome :D
I have this mental problem with me making mistakes. This build serves as therapy for my problem.
This hobby should be advertised as such, among other things!

I am slowly learning to almost enjoy making a mistake - and then solving it...
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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #107 on: April 02, 2016, 10:24:52 am »

We all make errors Hande.
Just after starting my latest build, i had been merrily installing the prop shafts and Kort nozzles, I had even turned up a pair of discs to ensure that the shafts were exactly central in said nozzles. 'What could possibly go wrong?" I hear you say. In a moment of brain fade, I installed the nozzles back to front!
Of course, the Kort shafts are not central in the nozzle, so when they are turned round, the props are no longer directly below the pivot point Arhhh! >>:-(
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #108 on: April 02, 2016, 11:06:50 am »

oh dear... I bet you didn't laugh then, Simon!

Yes, I suppose there isn't such a thing as error-free build.
I'll embrace that fact O0



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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #109 on: April 02, 2016, 03:27:03 pm »


Someone dismissed kit building as something where one just glues some parts together. Well, this is not like that. Not for an unexperienced builder it isn't anysway.

Now, THAT's a quote I can related to - and I'm STILL making unforced errors.

Let's look at these things as "setbacks" rather than "mistakes"  ;)

Regards,

Ray.
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Brian60

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #110 on: April 03, 2016, 12:26:15 pm »



 


Someone dismissed kit building as something where one just glues some parts together. Well, this is not like that.

Well that is certainly being expedient with the truth and a total misquote if ever there was one! As it was I who started the topic to which you refer, I suggest you read it again, at no point was I being dismissive of kit builders at all. In fact I do believe that I was defensive of your position and I was the first to commend you on this build! Enough said, it's the last time I will be offering advice >:-o

Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #111 on: April 05, 2016, 11:44:46 pm »

Took me a life time to do these with the sausages I have for fingers...



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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #112 on: April 05, 2016, 11:49:37 pm »

Starting to look really good now Hande.


Simon
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #113 on: April 05, 2016, 11:53:37 pm »

Bulwark supports.


I want to do at least some painting next.


All bulwark supports are accounted for and they fit roughly in the holes reserved for them by a nice Billings-person.


I need to design some kind of a platform, where I can stick the 69 pieces (standing upright) and paint them around, without having to hold them in my (sausage) fingers. I bet _you_ have your particular design..?  %)


I take a ...erm... mineral water and go to bed (2am).


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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #114 on: April 06, 2016, 12:00:07 am »

Starting to look really good now Hande.


Simon


Thank you, Simon. Yes - in particular, I like the bench on which the crew members will eat sandwiches from their lunch-boxes  :-) .
Why else should it be there??



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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #115 on: April 06, 2016, 12:18:08 am »

Ref the bulwark supports - last time I painted mine (off the model) I just took a few strips of paper masking tape, made a loop so that the "sticky" surface was on the outside. The loop was then pressed down (flat) onto strips of spare wood then the supports were pressed onto this, lying on their side, then paint applied.
When happy with the finish, made fresh masking tape up and pressed supports on again and painted the other side.

Just a thought - would it be possible to use some card (cereal packet type) cut in strips and temp glued to the supports as if they were the bulwarks, say 6 per strip, (on the outside edge of course). These could then be removed from the model for painting. Also, the card could be marked with numbers to identify the supports for putting back onboard later.
I have not tried this myself.... :-)

Regards,

Ray.
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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #116 on: April 06, 2016, 07:04:10 am »

I think I would remove them from deck, using 50mm masking tape, tape the deck and then put them back.
Ready made painting jig.
Will you be brush painting or spraying?


Simon
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #117 on: April 06, 2016, 08:36:22 am »

I have planned to airbrush. There will be small parts that need to be brushed, of course.
As long as the main deck is still clean of fittings, I think it's a good idea to use the deck as a painting jig, Simon :-) .
The thought had crossed my mind earlier, but it didn't occur to me that I could take the supports off after painting. Only that it would be difficult to mask the supports, while the deck was being painted.

Questions about painting:
- I have bad experience from glueing painted parts. That was when I used enamel paints and liquid cement. With acrylics, should I sand the paint off the edge that is to be glued?
- How does one conduct the paint-sand-paint-sand-(ad infinitum) procedure on the little devils of fittings? Many are so intricate that I will surely break them before the second round is finished. - I'm guessing that one doesn't and any defect of the finish will not show on the small objects?
- What is your experience from masking plywood? When I glue-etched the simulation of weld seams on the deck (I think they show in my pics), the plywood came off with the masking tape (not too badly - I succeeded in sanding the surface smooth again, enough to finish it with coats of paint). I have proper masking tape, but I realise there are different qualities. May be I got the wrong type? May be I shouldn't mask on the raw plywood, but on a primed surface only?

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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #118 on: April 06, 2016, 08:50:40 am »

Just a thought - would it be possible to use some card (cereal packet type) cut in strips and temp glued to the supports as if they were the bulwarks, say 6 per strip, (on the outside edge of course). These could then be removed from the model for painting. Also, the card could be marked with numbers to identify the supports for putting back onboard later.


This is credible! An advantage would be that the to-be-glued edge would remain clean of paint, and a better joint would result.


...ok - thinking ahead (or thinking aloud, rather): supports painted, the inside of the bulwark should probably be painted off the build, too. At least it would be so much easier. But the bow and stern bending has to be done before painting. Which brings me back to the question about glueing painted surfaces.


...reminder for myself: have to check anything that goes against the bulwark!  :police:  At least there are some bollards. And the main hawse guiding arch (I don't know the nautical term for that) across the stern.



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #119 on: April 06, 2016, 09:49:28 pm »

It is done!  {:-{


This post is a memorial... <:(


...well - when you look at the tools that it took to remove my clever little A/C, it does look funny...




..you may laugh  :embarrassed:


Lesson learned: Don't take this hobby too seriously. It is not acceptable to have tears on your build.





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Captain fizz

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #120 on: April 07, 2016, 07:50:37 am »

I love it Hande, tools ranging from delicate to out and out brutal.
It can be a frustrating game that's for sure! :-))


Simon
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #121 on: April 07, 2016, 10:42:13 am »

Oh, I feel sorry for my little 1/33 crew members, who can't open the engine room door completely  {:-{


Lesson learned: If I don't know exactly, how to position (e.g.) a door, don't glue it, just yet. I may find out later, how it should be positioned  :embarrassed:



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #122 on: April 13, 2016, 08:35:36 am »

Deck fittings.
Time consuming, this is. These have tiny little parts. Sanding them has made my fingers even shorter :((


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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #123 on: April 13, 2016, 08:38:12 am »

Something went wrong with the parrot beak hook {:-{


Don't you think the hook should rest on the deck?? - It does so in the few pictures that I have seen.
I'm going to sand the holder, rather than take the assembly apart and redo the whole thing.

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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #124 on: April 13, 2016, 08:44:36 am »

Glue -> paint - or vice versa?


This is a good example of my dilemma about glueing painted surfaces.


Considering that advice goes that the surfaces to be glued shall be free of paint  :police:
if I glue the pedestal of the anchor windlass onto the deck, the space beneath it will be very difficult to paint properly.
I could take the attitude "out of sight - out of mind", but something tells me differently.


If I paint the deck first, and then glue the fittings onto it, it will result in poor bonding..?
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