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Author Topic: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug  (Read 169546 times)

dougal99

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #375 on: March 22, 2020, 04:53:43 pm »

I have an Amati water line marker which utilises a pencil. I find even using this that the line can move especially around the stern area and when the pencil tip is at a distance from the clamp. I would only use a marking method that can be easily removed to allow for corrections.
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Fred Ellis

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #376 on: March 22, 2020, 05:15:02 pm »

Hi
I have the water line marker and also had the same problem with the pencil, so I fill the inhouse test tank placed the boat into the water down to the water line, then sprinkled some talcum powder onto the water, and when you lift the boat out you have your water ling marked for you, :-)) [size=78%]  [/size]
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #377 on: March 24, 2020, 08:25:09 am »

You are good, Fred!
I have always thought that one must first have the waterline in place in order to get the ballast right.
But now that I think about it - since I know, where the waterline must go, i could just fill the hull with stuff to get the boat down to the waterline and then use your trick.


Something to remember for my next build...


Afterthought: Don’t do this with only the primer on !!! the hull must be properly painted. Remember the teachings about primer being porous.



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #378 on: May 10, 2020, 09:58:08 am »

Finally, after a year's deliberation, I installed the aft arc ( I wonder how it's called  {:-{  )
The middle support is hollow and goes through the deck. I'm going to drive a lamp through.
I need these moments of apparent success. It has been mostly setbacks this far...


The arc is made by laminating two strips, as per instructions. The result is quite sturdy, I must say.


The bulwark is moving forward and I am close to priming it.

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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #379 on: May 27, 2020, 09:21:31 am »

Exciting news! New research required  8) :


After I changed my plan from UREKA XIV to DELFI, I realised that DELFI has a crane!
Anyone installed a crane on a Billings Smit Nederland?


In photos, e.g. (by DanoAberdeen) https://www.flickr.com/photos/-danophotography/43098681975
the crane seems to be installed right on top of the main bollard next to the towing winch.





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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #380 on: August 04, 2020, 09:32:47 pm »

Reporting on the bulwark:
masked, primed and painted.


It had to be done together with the above-waterline part of the sides, so this stage connects with my previous work on the waterline.



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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #381 on: August 04, 2020, 09:43:32 pm »

As I have posted above, I have decided to create a model of "DELFI", ex-"SMIT IERLAND".
As is customary, a new name is chosen by the new Finnish owners. The old name is painted over in black and the new one painted on top of the old one.


I wanted to simulate that.
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Capt Podge

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #382 on: August 04, 2020, 09:52:43 pm »

Well, that's what I call dedication to accuracy!
I can't recall ever seeing that done on a model boat  %% .
Good to see you're back at it Hande  :-))


Regards,
Ray.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #383 on: October 21, 2020, 07:13:26 pm »

Here, outside masking removed and hull markings attached plus a lot of correcting of the painting. The real DELFI's depth markings are given in tens of centimetres, but BECC only offers full metres. I decided to go with full metres.
I am relieved about the waterline scratches having disappeared (only visible if you are looking for them - and I am  :(( )[size=78%]. NOT a good idea to scratch - rf. my post from March 22.[/size]
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Taranis

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #384 on: October 21, 2020, 07:17:47 pm »

Nice finish , there may be an unintentional pun there  :embarrassed:   :embarrassed: :-)
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #385 on: October 21, 2020, 07:36:31 pm »

Not that anyone remembers my early postings about building the rudders from 30 plus acrylic pieces each and using the wrong agent...
Well I got sponsorship for buying new ones from Billings - this time ready-made brass rudders.


Sponsors are recognized effectively but in a delicate manner by the initials of their first names  %)


NOT happy with Billings quality this time around again. I returned one and got a new one. Not precision machinery, but I hope they will do.
I messed up with painting - a lot:
- acid primer - that went well
- Tamiya spray dull red - had to do it over again after washing the rudders clean with alcohol
- mistake: acrylic varnish over the Tamiya paint - the varnish peeled off in a most awkward fashion.
- I tried to correct things and messed up some more
- finally when everything was looking decent, I sprayed the rudders with a Finnish equivalent of "Future" (From Pledge) - I hope the pieces are sealed up now forever!
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #386 on: October 21, 2020, 07:38:22 pm »

Nice finish , there may be an unintentional pun there  :embarrassed:   :embarrassed: :-)


Yes - we get a lot of that...  :}
Thanks for your kind comment!
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #387 on: October 21, 2020, 07:49:19 pm »

I have been determined to drive the lamps into the fittings (back, starboard, port - end eventually the mast).
Learned that no led is small enough, but tiny tungsten lamps are.
I use 16V lamps and tested with different voltages.
12V was too much both because the lamp shone too bright and because it became too hot.
9V was too bright, too.
I am going with 4 AA batteries, which means 5V. I am thinking about a 5V power source, too.
For red and green, I simply painted the lamps with transparent glass paint.
I wonder how long my contraption will shine...
The light isn't supposed to shine down, of course. I will fill the gap - somehow so that I can replace the lamp in some future.
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #388 on: January 09, 2021, 09:25:05 pm »

I am tidying up the painting around the bulwark - but honestly, I'm getting tired of the bulwark. It's a small miracle that I have got this far ... I let it rest for a while and turn my attention to the propellers' lubrication and aspects thereof. I had this advise a long time ago to use nylon/plastic spacers to keep water out of the shaft tubes as much as possible. I'm going to add an o-ring to close the space between the shaft and the nylon spacer, to make sure.


Can you see a problem with my solution?

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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #389 on: January 09, 2021, 09:38:34 pm »

To escape the haunting bulwark - I am also looking into the wheelhouse.
The bridge furniture was fun to work on, and primer and base painting went ok.
BUT oh dear, how difficult it was with the varnishing.
In a picture taken from afar, and in future inside the wheel house, where it's hard to see them anyways, I guess the end result is acceptable.
The setbacks that I couldn't correct after removing and repainting and revarnishing and resanding several times are:
- Not smooth surface (as I would like anyway)
- dust particles all over
- most of all stickiness of the surface. If I touch the pieces, there'll be fingerprints and other marks...


All through my build, I don't seem to get to grips with varnishing...
The "heater" (separate block behind the map table) came out fine, if it weren't for the stickiness.


I tried brushing the varnish, but I'm lousy with brush. So I used airbrush. At least I've had practise now for the future varnishing phases.


Btw - the rattle can is really, really, good for painting and varnishing. It's just that especially with small fittings, it's far too expensive, and waste and vapours inside the house in the winter time is tremendous!

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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #390 on: January 13, 2021, 07:54:00 pm »

Final touch to the wheel house furniture.
I have learned that in the real Smit Netherland and her sisters, behind the "seat" of the wheel house there is a stairway leading downstairs. I don't plan to simulate that one. But it solved my question about getting about between the lower structure and the wheel house, without getting wet. It makes a lot of sense.



Now I turn my attention to the wheel house itself.
I plan to make it detachable - so as to allow switching it to a videocam platform.
I have acquired a camera the size of a thumb (well a largish one anyway...)
I should get footage as if it were shot from the bridge
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hama

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #391 on: January 13, 2021, 11:34:23 pm »

Looking really good, she will be a beauty!
Hama
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #392 on: January 14, 2021, 02:55:21 pm »

Tack skall du ha, Hama  :}  !
At this pace, I may be sailing the coming spring - about time, too 
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #393 on: January 24, 2021, 06:26:05 pm »

Not that this expedites my achieving the goal of sailing this year... :embarrassed:
I made the camera platform.
The camera can be turned (on the shore) in any direction and the Sony came with a remote controller that enables remote
- shooting / not shooting
- video
- still images


The wrist-held remote can be seen in the first pic.


The weather-proof camera should not be too heavy - I hope - to disturb the center of weight of the overall ship. The camera is mostly plastic and the "tripod" is some light metal alloy.


I will be able to detach the wheelhouse and replace it with the camera platform and vv.
I wonder what kind of problems the implementation of this plan is going to present, when I get to finalising the wheelhouse. For one challenge - I need a clever solution for the turning radar antenna and wheelhouse lights, that I have wanted from the beginning.

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JimG

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #394 on: January 25, 2021, 11:52:01 am »

You should try looking at the sports video cameras now available, they will give as good resolution and will be small enough to be mounted on a servo allowing you to rotate them when sailing. Some of those designed to be helmet mounted could even be fitted to the wheel house and are waterproof, many even have wifi onboard so can be watched using a smartphone while sailing.
Jim
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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #395 on: January 25, 2021, 04:12:44 pm »


Agreed, that camera does make it look very top heavy.....   {:-{
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #396 on: January 26, 2021, 09:12:57 am »

I can see now that the view angle makes a trick on the eye and the camera looks giant  :o


The 11,9 megapixel HD camera is small enough to fit inside the wheelhouse - theoretically.
It has wifi for phone/pad control and viewing. Sony offers this for action movie makers.
The steady shot function should eliminate shaking.
There may be smaller ones, but I got this from a bankruptcy clearance sale.


Compared with the 10kg of the build, I wasn't really worried about top-heaviness, but I will take care - thank you, Martin and JimG (Nice to meet you, Jim!).


Here are the data:


camera alone 61grams
with the weather-proof casing 108grams
the stand alone 121grams


add the plywood platform sheet and four bolts
subtract the weight of the wheelhouse


Total maybe under 200grams?
I keep you updated once I have finished the wheelhouse.

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #397 on: January 26, 2021, 10:12:29 am »


Ooo! Nice Sony actioncam... very underestimated!
    :-))
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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #398 on: January 26, 2021, 12:22:08 pm »

Looks much smaller from that view and more suited for its use although still at least twice the size of modern helmet cams. I have a GoPro which is waterproof and with WiFi although I do not use it on a helmet as it sticks out too far to the side, it is on a fixed mount on my bike. Looking at another make which is smaller and closer mounted for use on a helmet. Won't have your advantage of a sale however.(Nice meeting you Hande)
Jim
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Hande

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Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
« Reply #399 on: February 03, 2021, 07:44:20 pm »

The wheel house turns out to be more challenging than I thought :((
The window frames are difficult - with the Billings 3X0,75 "obechi" strips.
I ran out of the supply of the Billings kit. So I used plasticard for the door frames.
Wow, what a difference! Smooth, clean, neat.
With plasticard I could have made the round corners of the windows, which really is a must, if you want to look genuine!
Now I'm thinking about tricks to simulate the round corners with the "obechi" strips.


Also, I noticed that the kit instructions totally neglect the split windows (two front windows and one on each side).
Simulating the "split" is an other thing to ponder... Maybe, if I stretch a strip of plasticard across - I guess that would do the job?





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