Gentlemen, let's not 'fall out' over the leading [entry] edge of the water-jet inlet's grille! Only joking. It's good that each has looked and given feedback - all appreciated.
Firstly, remember two things that I said - 1] that as I was using the commercial KMB Jet28s I would make a grille that was 'close' to the original. In this prototype I have mimicked the entry, but kept to the rounded profile of the KMB unit upon exit [stern end]. If this allows the water to flow and do its job within the unit I will probably leave the design as it is. 2] However, I also said there is 'more than one way to skin a cat' - just look at GeoffG's wonderful brass grille on 18th February - Page12 above. I might go this way, should I have to, in aluminium - it does appear it will cover the whole area, as on the real vessel and look the part, even if not submerged within the actual inlets 'mouth'. It's neat, easier to make without machinery and looks the part! Let's see if anyone else using these units has come up with another way forward.
To that end I have re-visited the 'entry' shaping - even though the inboard bars did have bevelled ends - and then hand shaped the ends to a sharp point. I think this will aid the entry water a little. Derek, I will fill the little ruts in the hull surface once the filler is next out and mixed! You will also notice I have now added the two 1.6mm threaded screws - you will see where I made the one side just that 1mm thinner [wrongly] it translates into a very small bulge where there is not enough material to accommodate the screw, this will be adjusted on the second one [Port side], then later maybe a new one to replace this one!
So, Derek thanks for bringing this to my attention and Kinmel thanks for being so loyal in your thoughts towards me. It was all worked out in the end - excuse the pun.
Martin [Macs Mouldings] and Arno - there are more than 'Forty Shades of Grey', that could make a great title for a book! Seriously, Arno, the manufacturer's title does say 'extra dark sea grey' and it really is on the deck paint. That is what made me ask the question of the RNLI. Look at my two 'ringed' close-up shots, especially of the bottom of the stanchion and it's foot-plate, the edging grey is the lighter colour the anti-slip used to be on previous lifeboats, but in recent refurbs even these boats are coming back with a darker grey coating. Like you I will get a better look in the next couple of weeks when I make another visit - I'll try and get the paint label details from Trevor Bunneythe engineer. I looked at the three numbers for RAL, BS and the Pantone quoted by 3M Scotch and they were all pretty much the same dark grey.
Colin - thanks for reminding folk that Halfords now do a rattle-can of textured paint. There are three, but I think it is just the colour that is different - grey, stone and green. I stand to be corrected though. B&Q also do one [used to be by Rustolean] and this is now by Valspar. Spray very lightly, coat by coat and the amount required can be built up from very fine to a coarse grade - your choice.
Finally, two things Derek - 1] the encouragement given in my way of presenting this Thread. I enjoy doing it, but mainly want it to help anyone attempting either this Shannon build or any other boat build for the first time, hence the number of photos and also admitting and showing mistakes made. I have had quite a few PMs saying that it is being very helpful, but I also get a number of phone calls from those passed on by Andy at Models by Design who do not have a computer and the access to this thread. I just hope it helps in a little way, but all your thoughts, help and encouragement keeps me going. 2] Thanks for the information regarding anodising - interesting reading and a valuable starting point, especially as they are down in Dorset. Not sure whether I will go that far yet, but will consider, once a few items have been made and my early ideas of 'fine sand blasting' has been tried - more later.
Well, will end now and hope to tidy workshop and then get the final two screw holes drilled and the underside supports made, tapped and glued into position.
My regards to each and all other readers here.
Kim