Topic: Shannon 'RNLB The Morrell' 13-02 [Models by Design] - a 1/12th build (Read 465085 times)

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #675 on:** October 22, 2018, 11:45:10 pm »

Well, had a great few days at the St. Albans Model Engineering Show a few weekends ago. There are a few shots of parts of our stand [that's Jeff, Lee, Jacob and Paul].
Last week decided to start and make the pulpit rail for the fore-deck. Heated the 4mm brass rod to 'cherry red' and when cool attempted to bend it around a brass rod of the correct diameter [radius] - 28.5mm - and it snapped!! Never happened to me before. On Wednesday I went to Dungeness RNLI to meet up with the LOM [Lifeboat Operations Manager] who is also making the MbD Shannon and take him the motors, ESCs and KMB water-jet updates I had got him. It gave me a chance to see his workshop and model. Whilst there took the opportunity to take more photos and measurements and re-measured the pulpit rail..............42.5mm diameter [divide by 12 = 3.5mm rod should be used!!]. So, this afternoon went back into the workshop.....'cherry red'......bend round 28.5mm rod in vice and 'hey-presto' it worked! Then bent the two angles into it before being called in for evening meal by Mrs. B [who is very happy as we had been out to buy a new washing machine in the morning - brushless motors now!!] You can see the broken rod in the photos.
So there we have it. I'll try and get this done over the next few days [busy with choral work at the moment as a concert at the Cathedral in two weeks time, to close the Canterbury Festival]. I'll try and get those promised updates from other folk's Shannons posted here too.
C.C.

Taranis · « **Reply #676 on:** October 23, 2018, 07:30:53 am »

Very strange that snapping Kim
I used brass rod straight off the shelf from Cornwall model boats, no treatment of any kind. I started in the middle of a suitable length and initially formed it around a Humbrol paint can and tweaked to the final shape then formed the other bends with hand and pliers

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #677 on:** October 23, 2018, 10:38:10 am »

Hi Andy,
Yes, built a few of these at 1/12th scale over the years, for my boats and for a few other folk, and never had a problem. There is a lot of bad quality brass [from China I'm told], but I can't remember where I got this length from. One of many in my stock tubes in the workshop. Still, it went better yesterday. I have to say your one looks very good and it's nice to see one that has the bow searchlight brackets and also the fore-deck LED lights below! First model I've seen with these on.
Just got off the 'phone to Andy G. and it's good to hear that quite a few Shannons got sold at Blackpool and he's taken a few orders since. There will be quite a flotilla of Shannons at the Shows next year - mostly in orange and blue with one in 'Belcher Grey'!!
Kim

Taranis · « **Reply #678 on:** October 23, 2018, 11:00:10 am »

Thank you Kim
I think CMB stock is from K&S metals
I picked my MBD Shannon up at Blackpool too so I have all the brass work to repeat

I remade the searchlight cradle from brass and I have done the mount in the bridge also but so far neglected the rear railing mount

mk1 · « **Reply #679 on:** October 24, 2018, 06:01:51 am »

Hi Kim did you forget that the Shannon I built had the light horns on it and the lights work you can just see them in the pictures I put on here. Has any body else built them with working lights.
Cheers John

C-3PO · « **Reply #680 on:** October 24, 2018, 09:00:01 am »

This is one of John's (MK1) Shannon's with some of the lights working

Not the best of pictures as for some reason my auto focus was misbehaving and the close up's are all blurred!!

C-3PO

C-3PO · « **Reply #681 on:** October 24, 2018, 10:56:46 am »

A better picture of the rail mounted deck lights on the Shannon built by John (MK1) - every time I look at the detail on this scratch built model I smile

C-3PO

derekwarner · « **Reply #682 on:** October 24, 2018, 12:57:25 pm »

CC....could I suggest brass stock from China is not of poor quality, however simply is the product of a ''melt'' of a Grade of brass with a Zinc content over the norm of 80%Cu/20%Zn

With all metals manufactured & exported/imported around the world [included Chinese manufacture] have chemical composition Certification

So if you end up with a brass product that has been imported, the importer should have copy of composition

If you purchased a load of brass bar lengths from a car boot sale........thats just what you have

You have used stainless steel in certain applications.....did you request a specific Grade?.......18/8, 300 Series for non magnetic and rust resisting?, 400 Series for mechanical strength but less resistant to rusting?

If you purchase brass bar from a reputable supplier they should be able to confirm the Grade of brass

Derek

[PS....my stock of 0.125" [3.17mm] diameter brass was sold to me as 80/20 or Grade C24000] is precision diameter rod.......I think it would be impossible to bend

around a 28.5 mm diameter former in the cold condition]

Taranis · « **Reply #683 on:** October 24, 2018, 07:36:03 pm »

I applaud those who go to the great lengths of lighting up
Myself I’d rather not so my light details are limited to looking like they might

I’m not sailing in the dark so I direct my precious time to other aspects

Old fart also has working lights

Neil · « **Reply #684 on:** October 24, 2018, 08:09:10 pm »

Quote from: Taranis on October 24, 2018, 07:36:03 pm

I applaud those who go to the great lengths of lighting up
Myself I’d rather not so my light details are limited to looking like they might
I’m not sailing in the dark so I direct my precious time to other aspects
Old fart also has working lights

yes, I agree......once spent inordinate amounts of time wiring up all running and nave lights on an old tug and a puffer I made, never actually got to putting power to the trawler lights other than on the work bench, but having put the puffer in the water, the first light failed within a week from salt corrosion from the sea water I sail in and by the 3rd week none of the others worked.....so from that day forth, working gimmicks have never been put on my models, including lights..

my idea of working lights for a night time regatta is a string of Christmas fairy lights hung between masts, fed by 3 x AAA batteries, lol.

Taranis · « **Reply #685 on:** October 24, 2018, 08:24:36 pm »

I will of course have the obligatory rotating radar

an absolute must

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-LVm24Xs/0/172abf55/1280/i-LVm24Xs-1280.mp4

tsenecal · « **Reply #686 on:** October 24, 2018, 08:33:35 pm »

looking at those pictures of MK1s railing... are those just 3mm LEDs inside 3.5mm or 4mm brass tubing?

C-3PO · « **Reply #687 on:** October 24, 2018, 09:37:49 pm »

Quote from: tsenecal on October 24, 2018, 08:33:35 pm

looking at those pictures of MK1s railing... are those just 3mm LEDs inside 3.5mm or 4mm brass tubing?

John (MK1) could confirm - They are 12v grain of rice

Regards

C-3PO

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #688 on:** October 26, 2018, 02:57:32 pm »

Promised an update on a few fellow members' Shannons.
Here is a video clip that Gribeauval [Mike] sent of his son's [David] Shannon in the test tank. This is with new smaller resin nozzles made by Andy Griggs[MbD] and new ESCs fitted to the motors. https://youtu.be/yvBqof0qd0Q I hope it has worked. If so I will Post another two videos of the same boat that Andy has of Mike's / David's boats with the upgrades and details of how to get them from Andy G.
C.C.

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #689 on:** October 26, 2018, 03:16:04 pm »

Well, it seemed to work from where I am sitting!!
What a 'test tank' - wished my bath was that large!! However, now the weather is getting colder maybe a smaller 'test tank', and indoors, is better.
Here is the second video. These are the new fibre glass 'hoods' to go with the new smaller nozzle in previous video. They work well and Andy says they will require a little 'cosmetic' tidying. However, they come free with a pair of the new nozzles that cost £5 + p&p - can't be bad - best bargain of 2018!! Get in touch with Andy G. @ MbD.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzJoqsoIwvU

The next video will show the same Shannon performing some superb manoeuvres in a confined area with these new nozzles and buckets in use.

C.C.

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #690 on:** October 26, 2018, 04:03:51 pm »

Sorry, the new washing machine [Bosch] has just been delivered and installed and when I started telling Mrs. B that it had a new type brushless motor drive all I got was 'BORING!!'. Oh well, nothing changes.........................
Back to the more interesting things of life!! The next video.................https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmkY4jM7cAk .
There. That wasn't too hard and Mike obviously gave me a good instruction as it all seems to have worked - first time I've posted videos. I trust you will have enjoyed them, don't forget to get your updates from Andy G!!
I'll end here, but there might be more later tonight on my build progress and Chris's down in Burgundy [Macron country].
C.C.

gribeauval · « **Reply #691 on:** October 26, 2018, 07:21:10 pm »

went even better at Blackpool but this is the only video clip of it on the pool that seems to have been taken!!!
Pity as my son, David, had the boat doing pirouettes and crabbing sideways as well as trying to stand on its nose during crash stops.

https://www.facebook.com/battleshipbuff/videos/10155903299992849/

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #692 on:** October 27, 2018, 01:26:06 am »

Just to catch up on the Posts put here:

Thanks to Mike and David for giving us a good insight into the water-jet upgrades
Also, apologies to Mk1 for forgetting his model with lighting [seems so, so long ago now!], and thanks also to C-3PO for photos
Agree - in part - with Neil's comments on lights and lighting models, but each to their own, their skill levels, aspirations and requirements
Derek, all my brass was from reputable, known suppliers, so hence the surprise that my normal methods have not worked. See my next 'build' update tomorrow, where it has happened again!! So, nothing from a 'car boot sale' - whatever next!!

I'm awaiting for some 'higher res.' shots from Chris in Burgundy, so a little delay there.
C.C.

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #693 on:** October 27, 2018, 12:21:01 pm »

'There's more than one way to skin a cat'.........well, that was a book that an old church minister friend of mine from yester-year had!!
And that was where I was at a few days ago when I had an odd half an hour and decided to put the next couple of bends into my pulpit rail. After the 'cherry red' session they both snapped again!!

So I tidied the four ends on the 3.5mm pieces of rod and then silver soldered [using my small 5 Euros brazing torch which fills with lighter fuel] them back together again! Then I:

gently bent the required bends, using the RNLI plans as a guide
and also a digital protractor and small wood working manual slide guide to get the correct 96 degree angle from the plans
cleaned the brazing up using a file for the coarser bobbles and then 400 and 800 wet & dry grade papers [bent around a small oak wood block most of the time
then translated the areas to be drilled for the back legs onto the model's deck
drilled with a 3mm drill
and then reamed out with my Huddy reamer to the required 3.47mm diameter for the leg to fit through tightly
then I used a small spirit level to set the back legs at the 90 degree upright required to get the correct angle for the top rail against the rise of the fore-deck

That's how you now see it [in a temporary position] whilst I wait for the 3.5mm brass tube to arrive for the front legs - seeing as I hope to have working LED lights.

C.C.

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #694 on:** October 27, 2018, 12:35:43 pm »

You will see:

I used cut-off paper clips into the Skamlex board to hold the front bent section of the rail in place
used a 'third and fourth hand' tool to hold the rear legs in place - something I don' often use as I'm not a great fan of them, but here they worked well and did the job!

The rest of the photos are attached.
Again, a reminder that I go a little OTT with my explanations and photos to hopefully help those folk that do not have plans or are building their first boat / Shannon class lifeboat. For those folk, you will see I do DVD of over 1,000 photos of the Shannon for £6.50 [inc. p&p] and all of that goes to the RNLI station at Dungeness and also a small brass gate insert for the upper steering position with it's 154 holes all water-jet cut out. This is £15 + postage [that was the actual cost] - there are a few left. Just send me a PM and I'll get them off to you. They both appear on previous pages of this build.
C.C.

Delboy1958 · « **Reply #695 on:** October 27, 2018, 01:33:26 pm »

Hi Kim
Looking good nice tube bending sir.

Regards

Del

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #696 on:** October 29, 2018, 01:51:59 am »

Thanks Derek. A small bit done, but at least I'm in the workshop again now.

Today [Sunday] saw a couple more hours there and I decided to make the starboard side wheelhouse roof handrail [made the port one July last year]. I used the same approach and silver soldering to achieve this and that is recorded on Page 18 of this 'thread' - Post number 443.
Here are the photos of this one. I just await the delivery of the 3.5mm brass tube to get back to the pulpit rail. However, later today [Monday] I might start to look at bending the main stern 'open' fairlead and its fabrication and deck plate.
C.C.

Canterbury Coxswain · « **Reply #697 on:** October 31, 2018, 11:19:08 am »

As 17-09 came across last week for a few hours I thought I would share with you some more of his scratch built items for his 1/12th Severn Class based at Dover. I'm also putting it here to give some insight into scratch building, knowing just how many MbD Shannons have been sold and ordered in recent weeks. Obviously the 'season for Winter Projects' is getting underway - who said scratch building was a dying art?
Some of what you will see in the photos are:

the use of curtain wire to form the corrugated ducting seen on most of the larger lifeboats
items made on the lathe - usually having 'ground out' a tool on the grind stone that conforms to the shape required [the little 'mushroom' aerial curves on both the top surface, but also the underside stem]
the use of a piece of aluminium rod that shows the cutting pattern from facing off [when turning], then cut to an oblong shape and fitted as the lens and reflector to the Bosch video camera
a blue lens hood / cover for the 'emergency shout' light - this being blue acrylic rod, turned and then indented in the bottom to take a blue flashing LED light. The outer surface of the lens having been finally spray coated with two light coats of Tamiya transparent blue.
all of the lights shown are scratch built, likewise the trunking brackets / guides. Most are wired through the trunking to work. Underneath the hinge maintenance platform are two miniature switches and the small 1S [one cell] LiPo battery that will power these separately from the main electrical system
the two VHF whip aerials have been made in brass and hand fashioned into the correct size taper! Again patience and a wood block to start with and then the correct use of support and gently turned on the lathe
the small black starboard side aerial had each of the 'indentations' cut on the lathe
also present are the various miniature cleats with the correct profile to tie varios 'lanyards' to
the use of Revell's 'anthracite' black - much like NATO black from Tamiya - Alan hardly ever uses straight black or white.

What is shown takes research, access to the actual boat and items [not always easily possible at this height from the deck - but achieved with permission and the correct H&S approach]. It, alongside patience, pays dividends.
Hopefully these will inspire others to give it a go.
I will now get into the workshop to start making the stern 'gob-eye' fairlead deck plates for my Shannon, seeing as the 3.5mm tube has still not arrived for the pulpit rail!! More ordered from another supplier.
C.C.

swiftdoc · « **Reply #698 on:** October 31, 2018, 12:30:08 pm »

Beautiful - amazing - awesome!!!! A real source of inspiration! Will have to ask my ladies what kind of product curtain wire is - it seems to come from a world they have better knowledge of

Arno

17-09 · « **Reply #699 on:** October 31, 2018, 01:05:10 pm »

Hi Arno,
They are called taught wires over here, used to hang net curtains, strip off the plastic covers to reveal these corrugations.
( sorry to butt in Kim....)
17-09 Alan......

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Author Topic: Shannon 'RNLB The Morrell' 13-02 [Models by Design] - a 1/12th build (Read 465085 times)