Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[Macsmouldings]

Hi Kim,  very nice fella

keep up the good work, look forward to catching up soon.

regards,

Martin.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Thanks Martin - good to hear from you.
It's that very busy time with concerts at the moment and six rehearsals in the next two weeks, with professional vocal training for me [on Mondays] and also learning the 112 pages of Russian text [phonetically] which we sing across the one and a half hours at the Cathedral - Sergie Rachmaninoff's Vespers or 'All Night Vigil'. All unaccompanied.....wonderful stuff!
However, every now and then I get out into the workshop and do a [very] little bit of brass work to keep me sane! I have some more to Post on this thread, hopefully in the next couple of days. Send me an email when you have a moment and I'll venture your way for an hour's chat.
Did you see the subliminal Macs Mouldings compliment slip in th background to a few photos here recently? I try my best!
Are you going to Ally Pally? I hope to go with 17-09 on Friday 17th.
Kim

[SteamboatPhil]

Come and find me on Friday Kim, I have a French model boat magazine supplement for you about their lifeboats 

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Great, will do Phil.
Kim

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Recently, in snatched spare moments, I have:

• Cut and threaded the 'feet' with 12BA brass hexagonal bolts that have 14BA heads [these were a customised 'one off' order with EKP Supplies some twelve years ago and cost £230+ for 1,000]. I have added the 12BA washers, but they are slightly oversized and will be replaced in due course.
• Used my two tools to thread them into place - a turned down hex screwdriver and a 14BA hex grub screw [fastener] that also was turned on the lathe to remove half of the thread - hence becoming a 'driver'. Both can be seen in the background of my photos and were made for me by my late friend Ted, when I first got involved in model boats some nineteen years ago.
• Used my Proxxon electric screwdriver, with the adjustable speed transformer unit, to tap each of the threads. This is my most useful tool, away from the lathe and milling machines. However, do not forget to use cutting fluid during this process, it makes the cut easier and prolongs the cutting edge on the tap [and drills when using them].
• You can see the clean finish underneath each 'foot', once the bolt protusions have been nipped off, filed close to plate foot surface and then 'wet and dry' finished, using oil.
• I then got some 6.35mm brass rod and turned this to 6mm - not too finely, as most was either going to be later machined off or turned to another diameter.
• Then turned a section down to 4mm - this was the length that would go inside each gob-eye fairlead end.
• Having reversed the length of rod in the lathe chuck I parted the section required and again reverse the resultant piece in the chuck.
• Then I reduced the length to that required on the cone 'reducer' and put a chamfer / bevel around the rim.
• Using a centre bit drill I then put a hole in the end and opened this up to a hole that would eventually accept the start of the stern top handrail sections. This was not drilled out to the full 1/8" size as the cone might have parted from the 4mm section of rod under the pressure. This will be done later, once the two 'reducers' are soldered into place and the brass outer sleeve is there to support the 1/8" size.

Well, I hope that has made sense, especially if you are going down this road too, and like me have very little 'engineering skills'.


C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

........balance of photos.
C.C.

[dpbarry]

For someone with very little 'engineering skills' i'd say that is impressive!!!

Declan

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Thanks Declan, but I've never had to use a lathe or milling machine to earn my living, hence a few folk that I know that have, must look at my methods or end products and wince at the time I take or quality produced. But it's been a new skill learnt over the past few years [fifteen since I retired] and I'm enjoying it, learning all the time and when the primer goes on it won't notice!! Just so long as I remain safe in the use of these machines, they can be lethal.


So, to get to where I am at this very moment:

• I soldered the 'reducers' into the gob-eye fairlead.......
• .......and used JB Weld [steel] to fix the two 4mm screw threads into the 6mm cradle supports.
• Take no notice of the join line on the gob-eye bottom tube section, this is off centre, and was created to get the correct width when joining the two sections created.
• I then drilled the holes on the stern [aft] deck to accept the gob-eye fairlead. However, beware, as when I fitted my deck to the hull I moved the deck 2mm towards the Port side to accommodate getting the centre line accurate. [Something Andy W. had contacted me about some months back and previous to that Arno when he had cut to the line provided on the actual deck and wanted to 'save the day' - which he did!]. What I now had was the Port side deck hatch and central hatch too far over by that small amount, but it shows. It might get left like this or if I decide to machine aluminium hatches [the three here] at a later stage I might make the correction..............................hmmm.

Kim [C.C.]

[Delboy1958]

Hi KimNice parts and nice to see you back on the build .
Regards
Del

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Well, I have just got back from a very eventful and enjoyable day at the London Model Engineering Show at the Alli Palli with 17-09 [Alan].
When we arrived we immediately came across Mr. Plastic Fantastic's [Chris's] James Bond stand with 17-21 and his grandson Michael accompanying him. Pleasantries were exchanged and then I was told to close my eyes and hold my hands out - as there were a lot of people around I did as requested. 17-21 then put into my hands a 'can' and I opened my eyes........and there was the most incredible surprise, a Citadel Games Workshop aerosol can of Lead Belcher [grey] undercoat paint!! I was actually speechless and therefore quiet for some few minutes. Phil said he had found it in a model shop in Weymouth whilst visiting recently and '.....just had to buy a can, whatever the price'. Everyone laughed, as if you go to #168 on my 'thread' here you will find the instigator of all of this little joke against me, when Martin [Clifton] of Macs Mouldings and Warwickshire Back Lane Mystery Tours Ltd., put this photo from our Dortmund trip on a can of Halford's Grey Primer [if you have ever seen any of my 1/12th model lifeboats........they are all in Grey Primer!!]. Hence the joke.
So thanks lads [Martin and Phil] see what you have done.......now can I claim any royalties from Citadel?????
I must admit, halfway through the day I thought it was a clever prank that I had fallen, hook line and sinker for, but when I got back home I checked the internet and found that it is actually an 'undercoat paint for plastic, metals and resin model pieces'.
Martin, you owe me big time Fella!!
Thanks all, it was good to see many other 'old faces' too - Steamboat Phil, Derek [Del Boy], John from SMWS, and Rob Briancourt from St. Albans MES.
I came home with most of the items on my shopping list and after a detour to Faversham for a curry at The Raj with Alan, who was my chauffer for the day - thanks for such a good trip and day to each of you.

Kim


 

[17-21]

Just had to be done Kim   must say I think its the first time I have known you be speechless 


Lovely bit of brass work Mr B


Speak soon.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Thanks Phil.


Well, back in the workshop [on the East wing of the premises] to get away from my wife [who is in the West wing], whilst I practice my notes and Russian pronunciation for the Rachmaninoff's 'All Night Vigil' [Vespers] rehearsal tonight and the Concert this coming Saturday. So no modelling at the moment.
However, sitting here amongst six 1/12th scale lifeboats and two other scale lifeboats, I was reminded of the notice I bought at the London Model Engineering Show last Saturday and which is now displayed - on a background of 'belcher lead grey' - out here! I just hope the Almighty has read it!


Kim [C.C.]

[Fred Ellis]

It's good to see that, that poster is still doing the round's, I still have mine from way back in the 90's, that company used to give them out when you took out insurance with them.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

I actually got back into the workshop for a couple of hours this afternoon! It's been agonising and inspiring over recent weeks to see the progress of Andy W's superb Shannon build and also some progress photos from Arno [Swiftdoc], who I hope when he gets some spare moments will Post here too.


I decided, having got the gob-eye almost finished, that I would now progress with the stern deck and hand rails. However, I decided to spend my time in checking out that all was square and in line on the work done so far, as I had had feedback that the deck and hatches were out of kilter by up to 4mm. Almost correct, but mine were not that far from the required positions:-

• when I originally fitted my deck I did not cut and fit to the deck shape that was impressed on the moulding. Having found the 'true' centre I marked, cut and fitted accordingly, which had a requirement to move it a few millimetres to the Starboard side [once the bow 'nose' was fixed centrally]. Upon checking now, all was fine. However, having got the gob-eye located I could see that there were some small corrections required on the central rope and fender locker and also the two flanking sea- water filter access hatch covers [the single main rising pipework to the Port side of each water-jet has an inward facing pick-up that takes the sea water upwards through the filter and then into the various engine and exhaust cooling requirements, as shown on the information system screens at each crew station seat].
• you will also see throughout these photos some 'sticky' material around the edge of the hull - this is the double sided tape used to temporarily hold the soft-cast resin fenders in place, when required. Also some small chips on the edge of the deck that will eventually be filled.

So, what follows will show my approach to get the basics accurate to the nearest 1mm of deviation overall! Anything larger will get corrected - eventually.

• I started with the centre line - correct
• then the line across the back of the two stag-horn bollard deck plates - correct
• then the measurements appertaining to these and the their distance from both the stern deck edge and the back of the wheelhouse - correct, but remembering that the boat's station stern name board will add another 2mm to the overall dimensions between the rear edge of the gob-eye plates and the deck edge
• then I measured the position and size of the three hatch covers and marked the 'actuals' onto their surfaces. These will get corrected in due course and are visible for others to see
• the 'encroachment' of each corner and side fender overlap was marked, before removing and their position checked against the RNLI plans - correct
• I then started with marking off the position of one railing deck plate for the Port side railings. These need to be 10mm wide by 8mm deep and have parallel sides. The inward facing radius is 10mm diameter. The flat edge of each plate is stepped away from the deck edge by 8mm.
• having marked up the three individual plates I then marked in red where an upright rail will be positioned on the gob-eye deck plate - to be drilled at a later stage.

This all went well and left me in good spirits that another small amount of progress had been made and hopefully in the next few days more will follow [ever the optimist!].


C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Oops - just noticed that Port hatch cover has been replaced the wrong way around - only press fitted, so no lasting problem!


C.C.

[Taranis]

Looking good Kim. I actually cut the whole hatch section out in one big rectangle and moved it over. To look now no one would ever know but it would stand out like a sore thumb had I not done this.


Might not seem much but if your railings are 100% symmetrical it shows.


I never posted this picture in my build blog.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Hi Andy,
Yes, I can see that, but, as mentioned above, I could see that immediately and fitted mine correctly right at the start by moving the whole deck over by [I think] 4mm towards the Starboard, once I had the bow central screw in place from which to pivot it. Then every thing 'fell into place' exactly - nothing like yours shows in the picture. However, after many months of doing nothing [and the little chat we had over this matter] I decided to just check everything and the symbiotic relationships against the plan dimensions. It would appear that all is OK except the hatch hinges - and they are easy to alter, especially as I will be fabricating mine in stainless steel and have them working, as on other models of mine. It's all good fun and keeps us out of mischief - eh?


As I have said before, your MbD Shannon is looking wonderful - your RNLI station crews must be impressed.


Cheers,
Kim

[Taranis]

Thank you 


I'm struggling to motivate just now and keep shuffling stuff around my workshop hoping something will kick in 

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Andy, I know the feeling [from the distant past] - what about having a go at the wiper arms and blades? I am hoping to use the Albion Alloys square aluminium or brass square sections that slide inside each other - it has got to be done sometime, but I am a long way off that, just a thought. There are a lot of photos in my DVD of photos [the odd one or two slightly out of focus - ugh - but usable] and alongside your plans you'll have the measurements. Then there is always the door to the wheelhouse to finish, that a nice little project in its own right. I shall be doing some of this one during the next few days to try out my new little 'apres Brexit' pressie to myself! Photos will follow later, but you have most likely spotted it already.
All of that said, you have certainly shown folk the way forward on many issues. By the way, I like your idea of the thick section stainless jig for drilling the railings; there's a pretty good chance I shall follow your lead on this one! As we say in Project Management training - 'don't re-invent the wheel'!!
Kim

[swiftdoc]

My deck is ok as I have checked the middle before fixing it with screws. I had cut off the edge before following the line of the moulding and had to glue the missing filet later using some epoxy. But that was at the starboard side, Kim. I had to move the stern section of the deck into the portside direction by 2-3 mm in order to find the middle. Are you sure it was the other way round with yours? Anyway, better check things before you fix them....Or as 17-09 points out: do it nice or do it twice

[Taranis]

I cannot recall if I might be responsible for any confusion Arno     but I agree the right side starboard as you look down from above did not have enough material. I cut nothing off that side and pushed my deck as far to port as possible but it was not enough.
As said for anyone starting IGNORE the indicated cutting lines on the deck moulding.




Brexit present Kim? would that be the sweet Proxxon milling table 


P.S. thanks for the attempt at inspiring me 

[Canterbury Coxswain]

I spent a short while out here in the workshop yesterday and after lunch will attempt to be out here all afternoon to fabricate the six deck plates for the rising handrail supports on the stern deck and transom area.


As can be seen on the photo, these are all marked as per the RNLI plans and also my own measurements off the actual vessel. The plates here are of a different size to those that run down both the Port and Starboard sides, however, I will decided on those measurements when I get to them, as at 1/12th scale the difference should be quite small and only noticeable to those of us that belong to the noble order of the RCWWS [The Rivet Counters' World Wide Society] - open to all that like to push matters to the limit, have nothing better [at the time] to do and also do not value their sanity! Of which I am one!! You will also notice from my photo that all is aligned and as per both the plans and that that has been discussed before. As I have said back at the beginning of this build, check before cutting and fitting - my small mantra is 'measure twice and cut once', like millions before me!


Yes, Andy was right and to answer a few folk, now that my back and right hip have got a lot worse in recent months I have decided to treat myself to the small Proxxon bench drill, plus the cross slide table [compound to some] and vice, adding the adjustable 'Jacob's' keyed chuck instead of the collets provided. This will enable me to work on all my fine deck and wheelhouse fittings on my 'Bridge worktop', shown here, and save me crawling under the 'Bridge' every time I want to make a small item on my larger Chester milling machine. I will attempt to mill the odd small items on this [not really to be encouraged - Proxxon do actually make one] as the metals and styrene will be of a soft type cut or thin in profile - only time will tell. I have added a sherry bottle stopper to the top belt cover, as raising the top unit by another 30mm to give more height under the chuck left a large hole - this looks neater.
You can see the very small vice I purchased at the Dortmund Intermodellbau last year attached in the last photo and also my small rotary machining table and a larger vice that should fit too [from off the larger version in the background of my photos]. Hopefully this will allow me hours of great pleasure! I got mine from Reichelt in Germany and they were far cheaper than anyone else at the time by a long way - all of this was a few pounds over £200 [including the postage], good value I thought. They all go along with my other nine Proxxon power tools.


Lunch calls.


Canterbury Coxswain

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Yesterday afternoon's time in the workshop was enjoyable, but pedestrian. However, the fun was in making the first six [well, seven actually as one 'pinged' somewhere when I used the cutters to take the final 3mm off the bottom of a finished plate! - that's life and most of us will have had a similar experience in life at sometime.


So, using a piece of 12mm brass strip:

• I measured off the first three blanks for the plates, spacing them at 11mm to give enough for the cuts
• then using the German Knippex hand cutters [they cost a lot many years ago, but their DIN number of quality has proved to have been worth this!] separated each of the three
• using a piece of 10mm bright steel rod, I cut off a 5mm approx. disc to act a a template when rounding the ends of these deck plates
• I put the three 'rough' plates and the rod section into line and then into the vice jaws
• using the Proxxon belt 'finger' sander I shaped the ends of the three plates
• after which I filed the sides and flat shaped ends to the dimensions - 10mm x 8mm [to the top of the 10mm recurve]
• when this had worked I made the three for the Port side too.

These can be seen, placed where I had marked their positions on the stern deck area. Later today I hope to mark each of them out and then drill for the central 1/8th inch rail hole and the three smaller holes that will be tapped to accept the hexagonal bolts.


C.C.

[swiftdoc]

I am glad you enjoy your German tools and machines in the après Brexit era, Kim I did some carpet crawling today as well, small parts having pinged. But that is common with nearly every modeller I think - I still remember my father calling me to have a look if I might find some parts that had dropped from his workbench.
I have made the first three fuel intakes as you can see on the photos. The last one will be finished hopefully by next weekend and then they will be sprayed using some Alclad chrome colour. I have machined the hoses from aluminium on my lathe.
The profiles of the warping drum have been added for the capstan as well (17-09 gave me the inspiration when I saw his beautiful detailed deck fittings on his Severn class boat, I am sure he will read this!).
I have treated myself this small caliper with a digital readout. I always had difficulties using my larger one when measuring small parts on my lathe.
Sorry for interfering, but you invited me to do so Kim

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Hi Arno,
This is not interfering by any means, I did invite you to do so, as both a very good friend and also because we are building the same vessel from the same lifeboat station, which you have visited on a number of occasions. Which means we are 'twins' in a number of matters - except 'anno domini'!!


Your lovely 'twin' grill plates for the water-jets ought to be shown here too, please.
These items are really neatly and accurately made and will detail your Shannon well. I am looking forward to what is next on the 'menu'.
The calipers [vernier] will stop the right hand end keep knocking on the back swarf guard! I hope they are German?
I shall be in contact with an email later tonight.


So pleased your scratch building is reaping rewards.


Kim