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[Stavros]

May I suggest that you use Black TIGER SEAL  and nit silicon with the fenders........it can be overpainted at ant time where still on cant...furthermore i use Tigerseal to attach side moulding trims to cars and also rear spoilers......yes it is mucky to use.....wear plastic gloves.....any excess can be easily removed with panel wipe......it does what it says.....it will stick to anything.....I also use it to hold grp wheel arches to rally  cars and never had one come off.


Dave

[McGherkin]

I also use it to hold grp wheel arches to rally  cars and never had one come off.

Is there a thread for your rallying endeavours?

[BFSMP]

May I suggest that you use Black TIGER SEAL  and nil silicon with the fenders........it can be overpainted at ant time where still on cant...furthermore i use Tigerseal to attatch side moulding trims to cars and also rear spoilers......yes it is mucky to use.....wear plastic gloves.....any excess can be easily removed with panel wipe......it does what it says.....it will stick to anything.....I also use it to hold grp wheel arches to rally  cars and never had one come off.
Dave

that sounds an interesting adhesive Dave. where do you buy it from and can you buy it in mall amounts.


thank you,


Jim.

[BFSMP]

After a few weeks away from MBM Forum I am now sitting in my workshop with a large '14-02' mug [courtesy of 17-09] of Kenyan Broken Orange Pekoe leaf tea at my right hand, knowing that my Company's A/Cs are now complete and with my accountant [hopefully a tax rebate will be on its way in the New Year!], some family duties have been performed [ongoing] and rehearsals for two Concerts in the next few weeks are progressing well. That means I will be back into some modelling!
Whilst at 'Warwick' many folk came up and were impressed with the 'rubber' [soft cast resin] fenders around the deck edge. This was the reason I attached them with Gorilla waterproof tape. It was a temporary measure, but I also wanted to 'test' their claim that they would grip anything! Well, the first thing that must be borne in mind is that the thickness of the tape is around 1.5mm. This therefore 'steps' the fender off the edge of the deck, so would not be a perfect solution for the final fix to the deck and hull edge. Also, I found that even with lightly roughening the surfaces [800 wet & dry] and then wiping with nail varnish remover [acetone] some of the fenders came away after  few hours or couple of days. You can see this in a couple of the sections. I also treated the inside surfaces of the fender the same as the deck and hull sides. However, it allowed me to cut and trim the lengths to size and see how they fitted - I was well impressed! It also allowed me to see where the individual 'spacers' will go [as on the real vessels] - these being fixed to the hull sides at 90 degrees and then filled in with black silicone. That will be at a much later stage. I hope this helps with anyone considering a way forward with their fenders. I shall probably be fixing these with another glue that is on its very way to me at this moment - something I saw for the very first time last Saturday whilst at my Faversham Military Modelling Group!
Finally, I took my 1/35th scale model [just started and in build - but not grey!] of the Scimitar tank to this group and all they wanted to look at was the various tools I had in my [plastic kit only] tool box! Many notes were made and I think Santa's list is now even bigger! You can see one set of new blades I have here, but I have not put them to the test yet.
More will follow over the next few weeks, depending on the mood I'm in. It could be the aerial brackets in brass for the top of the wheelhouse, or the pulpit railings, some more wheelhouse door detail, maybe a stanchion or even the two bollards [bow and stern] and their floor plates in aluminium - that's the choice at this stage when semi-scratch building! It's good to be back.
C.C.

Those Swann Morton blades look a very versatile little tool CC, do they come with the handle as well.


What are they recommended to cut, material wise.


Jim.

[derekwarner]

Jim....the profile on the blunt end of the serrated Swann Morton blades appear to be universal handle fitment or the same for all of their other scalpel blades....[the text on the blade set implies the same]

They do look like they would be standard fitment for say a Neurosurgeons lunch box  ...those serrations would sure hack through skull bones OK 

Must admit I felt a little squeamish  after looking at 5 pages of the said brand of blades on e-bay....but did not see any  of the serrated variety

Derek

 

[BFSMP]

my method of hacking is a Stanley knife Derek./.......... never possessed a scalpel......must have a look and wait for CC to get back on where to obtain such blades. they look interesting.


Jim.

[Stavros]

Is there a thread for your rallying endeavours?

No sorry


Dave

[Stavros]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIG-NB-NEW-Tiger-Seal-UPol-TIG-NB-310ml-Polyurethane-Adhesive-Sealent-BLACK/282579712244?hash=item41cb1038f4:m:m5NJwyHE_Qdac4pkksEbdig[/size]

Dave



Print size enlarged at customers request           

Alright Dave

ken

[BFSMP]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIG-NB-NEW-Tiger-Seal-UPol-TIG-NB-310ml-Polyurethane-Adhesive-Sealent-BLACK/282579712244?hash=item41cb1038f4:m:m5NJwyHE_Qdac4pkksEbdig

Dave



Print size enlarged at customers request           

Alright Dave

ken

thank you Dave. a great help. cheers,


Jim.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

The blades come from Accurate Armour, as on the packaging label in the photo, and on their website go to 'tools' and they are there both with and without the handle. This is with the handle supplied, but as it says, they will fit a regular Swann Morton scalpel handle. Been using the latter for over 55 years!! I have a full range in my tool boxes of both handles and blades - would not be without them. Also on the photos it states on the blade fret [sprue] that they are for resin and plastic, although their website states wood too. I normally use razor saws, but these will allow you to get into areas where a small aperture or hole is required - something which could not be done with the end of a razor saw.
Well, back to watching the 3rd Test Match cricket now as Alistair Cook has just been got 'out'. Hey-ho.
C.C.

[Flundle (Speedline Models)]

Never mind the test match, get on with that Shannon!

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Firstly, may I wish each reader of this 'thread' - especially Martin and his Team - an enjoyable and rewarding 2018. I have made some really good friends in 2017, just from doing this lifeboat build - a truly national and international venture. Many thanks for all the helpful comments and PMs that are of the encouraging type - long may it all continue.
So, just about a fortnight ago I found time to get into the workshop and really felt like a go on the lathe. It was to be the forward bollard in aluminium. Having found a piece of rod I checked the RNLI plans for measurements, made myself some notes and diagrams and started. I am including more detail of each step and photos as a few have now been encouraged by this semi-scratch build and have gone out and purchased lathes and milling machines and want to get into this aspect too. If I can [and have] do it - so too can you.

• Firstly, I faced off one end of the rod....
• then used a centre drill to preceed the use of a tapping drill to make an M3 thread in the end so this bollard could be fixed through the deck....
• then I marked the centre of the cross bar onto the non-turned surface of the upright and found the centre of the ord at this point using a Proops chuck 'Y' tool - very crude, but it does the job. Having marked it........
• I drilled through the upright.
• I then turned the upright to the correct diameter....
• and parted this bollard upright to the correct height from the base plate.
• The I put a small bevel edge on the top.
• The same process was followed for the cross bar.
• With patience and constant measuring I then had this at the correct length and diameter to give a tight push fit.

This will be the same again for the stern bollard, apart from the side support fittings which are a different shape and set at different angles.

• I then used the discarded pieces of 3mm 'L' section aluminium milled off for the water-jet grilles [so long ago!] to make two base plates for the deck. 25mm x 25mm.
• Having scribed the outline I milled these to size and then hand finished the small rounded corners.
• Then I marked the diagonal corner to corner lines to give the centre and drilled with a clearance size drill for the M3 bolt.
• Two days ago I looked at my efforts and re-surfaced the two rod surfaces to a better finish - now I'm happier!
• There isa large plate / washer underneath the deck to spread any load, as I might want to use these as working bollards when I eventually get on the water.

Tomorrow [later today - now 0030hrs on 1st January, 2018] I hope to marke the plate/deck bolt holes, drill and tap 12BA threads to take 14BA brass hexagonal bolts [with 12BA threads - specially made for me by EKP Suppiles - £232 for 1,000].

The photos will follow in three sections.

C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Next batch [ahhh - Mrs. !7-09's cheese straws come to mind!!] of photos.
C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Final batch - goodbye 2017 and hello 2018!
I hope you can see the difference in the surfaces of the last two photos.
C.C.

[17-09]

Very neatly machined, true square and strong.
 Nice    17-09

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Got back into the workshop this afternoon [New Year's Day] and with 17-09's kind words ringing in my ears, decided to fit the bolts to the bow bollard deck plate. Warning - ignore the first two photos if 'copying' this build process! Well, 17-09's Post caption is 'Do it nice, or do it twice'. True, much like 'measure twice and cut once'. Hmmm.
I got the plate and scribed a line 2mm in from the edge. Then - for some unknown reason - I marked the ten bolt places at a 2mm spacing, this should have been 4.5mm. I only noticed this when two holes had been drilled ready for the 12BA threads to be cut - remembering that these were my specially made hexagonal bolts with 14BA heads, giving a stronger and slightly larger thread. I have used a number of these on my Trent class build, so those that you see in the photo in a 35mm film cassette case [remember those?] are worth around £180!!
So, seeing as I had made two plates [the stern one too] I decided to go and use this one and start again. The photos should speak for themselves. I have put yellow circles round the cutting fluid, prior to the hand cutting [tapping process] the threads, just to let our friend Derek [Down under] know that I had not forgotten! You will also see that the last photo shows the abortive plate and the second attempt.
Well, I know these process shots are helping some folk, as I have already had an encouragement that this is of use to at least one European friend, so I will continue - even after Brexit!!
Please ask if there is anything you would like explained.
C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

The final photos from New Year's Day.
I forget to mention that the first photo here shows my method of screwing the bolts in and out. The rear one is a socket [allen key] screw with the bottom half machined off on the lathe to give a a thin - but solid - edge, allowing you to get into very narrow spaces. Likewise, the one in the foreground is a cheap 'jeweller's' 14BA screwdriver with the 'spinner' end machined off and the working end machined down too, likewise, allowing close fitting in small tolerance places. Both ideas were gleaned from my late friend Ted.
C.C.

[derekwarner]

Compliments of the season CC ...........and watching on.......

"ten bolt places at a 2mm spacing"

I think the Design Engineer had a few too many Christmas tipples a few years back when he designed this 

Derek

[Charlie]

Very neat machining Kim - i don't think you will find Aluminum fittings of that quality in any kit
How do you intend to attach the cross bar to the post?


Charlie

[Netleyned]

Drill from the bottom up through the crossbar and insert a pin interference fit....or
Sticky Toffee Pudding
Jokes aside, it is good to see an engineer at his best
He can sing as well


Ned

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Good afternoon [here in the Northern Hemisphere!] Derek, Charlie and Ned, great to 'be with you all' again so early in the New Year.
Derek - I remembered the cutting fluid and a little note I left off was that I was using my favourite little Proxxon tool - the speed adjustable screwdriver, which doubles as a drill and also thread tapper [designed for that purpose] - it can be turned down to half a revolution per second with an adjustable torque setting too. Wonderful. I did this job by hand as it is easier, non-critical for 'perfect' 90 degree accuracy. I just need to find the 14BA washers now - they are out here in the workshop - somewhere!
Charlie - thanks for the comment, but this is the part I like best, even if I am slow. As I have said before, this is a new skill learnt some fifteen years ago [just prior to retiring] and not often used, so quite often forget how the process goes. But with my notes and the Internet and various Club members it all comes to fruition - and that's where the satisfaction comes from. Much like your marvelous hull, deck and wheelhouse fabricating skills! [I'll let you know the date of the RNLI Dungeness Open Day. Hope to get down there again in the next fortnight.]. But it's nice having the machines there [and plenty of various stock metals] ready to go when one fancies it.
Ned - thanks too for your comment, however I just wish I were [or had been] an engineer. Those of you out there that are 'proper' engineers must scream when you see what I am doing and methods used!! You might see the Moore & Wright centre punch in the previous photos, with a burred over end - it belonged to my uncle [who was an engineer working for Pump Maintenance, remember them with the grey, yellow and black Commer vans, often on garage forecourts fixing the early petrol pumps when it cost just 2/6d a gallon!!] and it was his father's before that [my grandfather - he was an engineer working on Bentleys for HR Owen in London], so maybe there is a little bit of it in 'my blood'. As for the singing, again those all around me are of a far better quality of voice and sight reading, but somehow they keep coming and sitting next to me [one friend Simon, regularly telling me how good he is - I love tapping his arm and telling him when he sings a wrong note!!], but I seem to keep passing the auditions to remain within Canterbury Choral - so much time spent on my knees offering up prayers!
Charlie, to answer your question - the cross bar has been machined so the middle 12.35mm is a 'smidge' [there we go again!] thicker and is therefore a good 'push fit'. However, when final assembly is made [after what I am attempting below] I will glue it with Gorilla glue and also fit the 1/12th scale weld lines that I purchased a few months back, using JB steel weld glue in this instance. Then it will get a spray paint job [weep, weep.......].
Well, I had better get on. I'm in the workshop working out how to fabricate and fit the three base supports around the upright and the two bow facing SeaCatch brackets. It keeps me 'on my toes' and 'passing the time of day' - a couple of idioms for my good friend Arno [Swiftdoc] to 'get his head around' out there in Germany, with his perfect English and wonderful Austrian lathe and milling machines.
'Adios' each and until we 'meet again soon',
Kim

[derekwarner]

....."You might see the Moore & Wright centre punch in the previous photos, with a burred over end"......CC...tools such as these centre punches were intentionality heat treated to provide the softer impact end so as not to shatter when hit   with the ballpein hammer

So your engineering uncle well used that M&W quality centre punch, however good practice is to simply grind the mushroomed head lest a slither fly off to some unsuspecting eyeball

Did we talk of kerosene as the drilling/tapping fluid for use with aluminium? ....

Derek

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Derek - thanks for the information - we're always learning. Seeing as I won't be using the centre punch that much and also only on smaller jobs and work, I think I will leave the 'burred' end, but will remember your good advice - makes sense.
So, while I'm waiting for the 5th and Final Test Match [Down under] to start [rain has stopped the start of play] I'll get up to date on what I did yesterday [Wednesday], for a few hours, in the workshop.

• I looked for the washers and found them, took each bolt off and fitted them.
• Made a few small notelets of details off the measurements off the RNLI plans.......
• and found a piece of ali 'T' section [used on the Trent build kickboards] and milled the ends square. Then cut it into two sections.....
• and then marked up the 'web' dimensions onto one [adding 1mm to the upright width measurement and 1.5mm to the base - these were going to be slotted into the base plate and then glued]...
• ....and milled the two pieces to the correct profile at the same time.
• Dry fitted these to see the effect - but you can see the overhang that should disappear when I mill a slot into either side of the pillar upright.
• Marked the base of the circular upright pillar and also the centre-line on the base plate from starboard to port. This gave the limit I could start from [going in a centre to the edge direction] without milling a complete line across the base plate and weakening it too much.
• Milled the two slots on the base plate and then dry fitted the webs into place.

Later today I hope to mill those last two slots in the upright and while I wait for some M5 bolts to arrive [small remedial job needs doing to the cross slide on the lathe] before I make the stern bollard. Also make the rear web on the current bow bollard and also the two front plates that the Sea-Catch T11 attaches to. Then I might well start on the bow pulpit rail - and some silver soldering!
Now that's good timing - play has just started in the cricket!
C.C.

[MOXCY]

Brilliant thread to find when iam just about to start my MBD Shannon

[Stavros]

How are you going to fix the strengthing plates to the towing post


Dave