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[Canterbury Coxswain]

Len and 'Captain Bligh',
The original stand had 'pads' that were only one third of the surface area of each on this stand and there was no problem, damage or impact marks - two large lifeboats have stood on and travelled many times over a number of years, but thanks for the thought, as it might have been a very valid point and learnt early on. Captain Bligh is totally right - the keel and lower hull surface sits and is supported in three positions and then the support legs support in the four positions easily seen are on 20mm x 20mm 'pads' of neoprene [soft and spongie] that can still be upgraded to three more thicknesses that I have here in the workshop. Over the next few days I shall 'fine tune' each of these seven areas and 'lock off' for a permanent stand for this Shannon Class hull. Three cheers to Andy [Models by Design] for getting such an accurate hull shape [mirror image] in the first place and then to Arno for thinking of such a wonderful system to form a modern, solid and proportional stand for this 1/12th scale Shannon lifeboat.
Talking of Andy - here is a little fettish confession I have had over the build of this stand. Every time I move the Shannon I just have to touch the fender edging running around the top edge of the deck and hull. It is so tactile with its 'spongie give' - I call it rubber, but I know it's 'soft set resin'. I felt bad at the time of the concept as I almost 'bullied' Andy into the idea - now I am well pleased and keep looking at and touching it!! Don't tell the wife!!!
Kim [C.C.]

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Two days ago I finished my Bosch Rexboth stand by completing the two forward support legs - same method as the rear ones:

• measure
• cut
• machine ends
• fix to hinge
• top with neoprene 20mm x 20mm piece
• adjust to contact and support bow of hull
• add the two black corner caps to the screw access holes on each corner unit

This now gives a 480mm x 320mm stand base with bow leg extrusion extensions cut to 70mm [add another 40mm for the hinge where this stand is being copied in another material / components] and stern leg extrusion extensions cut to 40mm [again, add 40mm for the hinge where this stand is being copied in another material / components]. Note - this will vary should you place the boat further forward [or backwards], also, I have not angled the front support top pads to exactly match the contact area on the hull. I might do this later, however, at the moment the thickness of Neoprene is 'taking this up' [moulding itself via the contact pressure].
I am VERY pleased with the finished product. It is extremely stable and holds the boat securely in place, with absolutely no movement in any direction. I have already carried the stand with the boat on it from the photo location in the lounge, through the kitchen and corridor into the workshop [part of the house]. Having placed it onto the 'bridge' worktop area it can easily be turned through 360 degrees to look at or work on the model. My grateful thanks to Arno [Swiftdoc] for bringing this product and design to my attention and for his very kind 'sponsorship' of this build.
Next week I hope to get back to working and finishing the two bollards, now my lathe has been repaired. You will see that the last photo is of the Shannon back where it belongs and awaiting more scratch building. Also in the photo is the Ramsgate lifeboat [Trent Class] and the Margate lifeboat [Mersey Class] - so much to do.................
Kim [C.C.]

N.B. - the 'rubber' deck edge fender is 'stepped off' the deck and edge by some 2mm in these photos as the sections are temporarily fitted with Gorilla double sided tape. This will not be the case in the finished model, where it will be flush fitted.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

The final two photos and now back to watching the Winter Olympics live from South Korea for a few hours!!
C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Derek [Down Under],
Thanks for the input at Reply #597. My can says 'more than 30% Aliphatic Hydrocarbons'. I do sometimes use WD40 but sometimes one does not require to have oil or grease on the items being processed - like brakes and clutches - but these do not rust, when used, on my car - but it is a Volvo V70 T5 Turbo! Seriously, I have put it on some taps and test pieces of metal and so far none have got rust on them. However, that might be because I have put a notice on each door into the workshop 'Rust not allowed in this workshop' and then got my wife to sign each -  only a fool would disobey this!!!
Kim

[McGherkin]

T5’s are the best cars! 


Great work on the stand - looks very modern, for a modern boat!

[Canterbury Coxswain]

McG,
You're right - T5s are the best!! This is my fifth Volvo and my third estate [V = Versatile]. I have only seen six T5s on the road during the past five years. She's a wonderful workhorse with 205bhp, 0-62 in 6.9 seconds and a top speed of 155mph - using the Tiptronic semi-auto gearbox [as in Porsches, I'm told]. It's the same as the traffic police use, but they don't get leather and the wood finish. Got this five years ago with just 24,000 miles on the clock having been a CEO at Volvo's personal car and then an elderly couple - who did not know what they had when I gave it a test drive!
She gets me to Shows in comfort and a 'steady' speed. [I've cut out the 'reg' and VIN - you never know who is looking!!].
Thanks for comments, much appreciated.
Kim

[swiftdoc]

A wolf in sheep's clothing I still remember when you showed us what happens at full throttle last year - I had underestimated the acceleration!

[McGherkin]

Lovely spec and condition there. A lot of people don’t like cream leather in cars but to me it reminds me of luxury yachts etc.



I have the C30 T5 with ~320ish bhp and 400ish lbft now. They are perfect all rounders, they drive so cofortably most of the time, really nice interiors and features, but when you want to get going, they don’t disappoint! Lovely sounding engine with lots of midrange torque.

They don’t attract any unwanted attention either, which is almost unheard of in performance cars.

We need a Mayhem car thread!

[Canterbury Coxswain]

McG, it's been good to share this, not many people know about the T5s, but a few websites give the main differences [visually small] that make you aware. You mention MBM Forum - this is where I 'met' Arno last year through this 'thread' and since then we have become very good friends and have met each other a number of times when he and his family visited England in 2017. In April I hope to meet them again in Germany and also here again during the Summer. We have found that we also share other interests [Formula 1 racing and performance cars] as well as foods and drinks - it's like we are twins at times! This site, run by Martin and his team really is such a valuable resource and 'meeting point' in so many ways. Another T5 owner met me at the RNLI Dungeness Open Day and stated how much he liked my vehicle and said he had seen it at the St. Albans MES Show last year too - small world. So yes, we might need to have a Lifeboat Enthusiasts' T5 Society!
Today I have been back into the workshop and started making the bow and stern bollard plates again, especially as I have the lathe back and working. I messed the first and second attempts up and you know what it is - it will only annoy me until I finally remake them, so I have 'bitten the bullet' and got on with it now. Photos will follow in the next few days.
I am attaching a photo of a very cheap Chinese set of die-makers' de-burrers - they will be a useful set when a fixed and non-rotating version is required.
Kim

[swiftdoc]

I have to reaffirm what Kim said: last year we met Kim and 17-09 during our stay in Kent in summer for the first time. The contact would not have been possible without the MBM forum. I was fascinated by the modelling skills of my fellow UK modellers. This also was the reason for me to buy a lathe and milling machine later - something I had wished but not dared before. It really lifted me to a higher level of modelling skills: I can still hear Kim saying 'If I can do it, you can do it as well.' He gave me a lot of support and I enjoy machining very much now. Still a lot to learn though but that is what makes things interesting.

I am very thankful for all the help I was given and will always remember that it would not have occured without this amazing forum!!!!

[Canterbury Coxswain]

If my late friend Ted could just see that not only have I progressed, since he got me involved with the lathe and milling machine, but that I have been [in part] an encouragement to a fellow 'lifeboat' modeller to also get involved with the same machines - he would be so pleased that he, a superb engineer, had two more 'disciples'!!
Well, like myself, Arno is a keen scratch builder in his model boat building, something that gives a real 'shot in the arm' when you can produce small parts for the boats. Since he recently acquired these two machines, never having done this sort of work before, Arno made a few small parts for an Italian Coastguard Bigliani vessel. Then he asked how I made the capstan. I took the one I inherited from Ted and took it apart [it is so good the parts press fit togther], photographing it [now shown here] and sending the results off to him - reminding him that instead of six sections around the base it requires to have eight. The last photo here is the end product Arno sent a couple of days ago!! Superb - what more needs to be said? This is only about the seventh item he has made. Scratch building at its satisfyingly best - there, I said if I could do it.............it's just that Arno has done it better!! Ted would be pleased.
Kim [C.C.]

PS - I have his permission to 'show it off' here.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

As they say 'follow that'!
On 19th [Monday] Reply #608 I said I was going to start making the bow bollard deck plate again, so here is where I have got to:

• new plate  cut and milled to shape [25mm x 25mm] and then centre fixing hole drilled
• no-one had commented on the fact that I had got the supporting webs wrong!! the side ones should be lower with the stern facing one being the taller one. I made another small one and will fill the resultant 'tall' side slots on the centre upright with JB Weld resin glue. This will then be turned to a cylindrical profile on the lathe and when primed and painted at a later stage will not notice - I hope.
• then I marked and milled the two parallel SeaCatch deck plate slots
• after which I made a 'dry' run assembly to check all was well
• I used a fine stone sharpening grinding block [carborundum] to 'reduce' the thickness of the webs so they were a tight fit
• you can see the difference [for the better - I hope] now that I am using my new 1/16" slot drills and, as my engineer friend Bill had advised, 'locked off' the main drill shaft assembly on the mill to stop any potential 'judder'.
• I then transferred the SeaCatch slots from the plate to the centre upright post.

I hope to get back into the workshop to make the two identical SeaCatch parallel plates next, having made a cardboard template from the RNLI plans.
C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

A couple of hours again yesterday were fitted into the agenda, but first a 'little' story!
Needed some 1.7mm thick aluminium sheet, so pick a piece at 2.5mm and put it on the milling machine and started to reduce the thickness. It did not progress that well and a few attempts were made.................until I remembered my box [Really Useful Box] that was under the bench containing, brass, ali, stainless and copper sheet, along with various mesh and chequer-plate!!!! Opened it up and there was a small [A5 size] piece of the right thickness!*?
So, half an hour after starting I was allowed to fabricate the two SeaCatch plates that are welded to the front of the bow towing and mooring bollard.

• I used the little card template made from RNLI plans, where I had allowed an extra 1mm in two directions for the slots I had milled into the deck plate and the upright central post
• I also had my previous 'PostIt' notes available for reference too
• I machined both pieces together, giving the 90 degree back angle and then took off the other straight lines
• lastly, machining other areas off to give a line nearer the curved front section to be hand filed.
• This done I then finished off with my Proxxon belt finger sander and then finished with 1200 grade 'wet&dry'.
• I then marked the central hole mark and, using a centre punch, put the guide mark into one side and drilled them together
• cleaned them both off.

This allowed me to may a dry fit assembly - as seen here.
I will, time permitting over the weekend:

• gently shape the edges of these two pieces and the four webs
• mark the bolts holes, drill and tap with a 12BA thread
• contour the edges of the deck plate and also round off the four corners
• start to glue the unit together.

C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

A few forays into the workshop in the last 24 hours and a little further forward.

• the ten bolt holes have been marked out
• then drilled with a 1.05mm drill [tapping size for a 12BA thread - the little Zeus booklet is a wonderful help, does not cost much and has so much information in it [some which you will never use here, but great knowledge anyway].
• Then tapped the 12BA threads......
• .....fitted the hex bolts with 12BA washers [new 14BA washers on their way for replacement and a more correct finish].
• Wet & Dry finish to the top and bottom of the plate was given, prior to the above bullet point.

I am covering this 'little build' in detail a a few have said this is helpful in their build, but some in different materials.
C.C.

[swiftdoc]

That bollard really looks the part   It is a pity that the wonderful finish will be covered by paint later! I like the Zeus chart very much as well as it shows metric and imperial data which is a great help for me.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Thanks Arno - you're not the first one to make that comment of 'painting' the metal parts, but then I'm quite slow at this [painting] so it will leave it this way for quite a while!
Something else you and a few other 1/12th Shannon builders might like.....................
Having seen T33cno's Post at the weekend on his Speedline Shannon build reminded me that somewhere in my large box containing my Red Bull Dakar Rally VW Toureg radio controlled model was a ratchet strap mechanism from RC4WD in the USA, someone I had bought some beautiful anodised ali wheels and adjustable axle stands from in the past - direct from America.
Here is one. On the 1/12th model this should be 20mm in length and 10mm width. If larger then it is a 1/10th scale like mine - 24.5mm by 11.5mm in width, but for the moment it has changed boxes and is now in the one labelled 'Shannon'. Of course if you are building 13-16 [from Amble] you will not need one as she lies afloat and does not need to be recovered by the method shown here at Dungeness. It is used to stow the recovery strop to the deck. The good news is this little 'oversized' item can be got from www.modelsport.co.uk as item Z-S1009 RC4WD Ratchet tie down assembly [workable] and already made-up! Not cheap at £21.84, but another item sourced! And from these folk you will not have to pay import duty!!
Kim [C.C.]

[ray123]

i like the look of them   here is the video from you tube featuring the tie down! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cC-0XtsxTGU&t=38s

[Canterbury Coxswain]

Spent a short while, yesterday, on some remedial work. In an email Arno [SwiftDoc] had asked why the slots on the side of the upright bollard post had an 'extended' slot - it was due to the fact that I had put the large webs at the side and when fitting the short web to the rear realised my mistake. I therefore made another short web and fitted these, then milled the rear slot and fitted that - leaving the 'extended' slots showing. So I cut two small 'fillets of ali and glued them in place, then put it back in the lathe [with one band of masking tape around the circumference to protect the surface] and machined '4 thou' off the bottom, reversed it and took '4 thou' off the top - finito! I then 'dry fitted' the unit back together.
Two points:

• It is sitting on a block of wood as this has a hole drilled in it to accept the bolt that holds it together at the moment and also fixes it to the deck when on the model.
• The 'instrument' in the first photo is a 'C' jaw locking clamp [used and from a small welding set] that is holding both SeaCatch plates together while a final adjustment was mad to make them closer to the true profile.

Next will be the small profilee fashioned onto the angled edge of each web and then glue the unit together, after which a 'little tweak' will be made to the finish - more of that later [if it works].
Much fun and enjoyment has been had making this - off and on - over a few weeks now!
C.C.

[Canterbury Coxswain]

I have received this photo from Arno, showing he has now made his 1/12th scale capstan [windlass or winch] for the Models by Design model and an upgrade [now he is enjoying his new skills on the lathe and milling machine] for his 1/16th scale Speedline Models version. Very impressive, with a neat finish to both. You are putting those Austrian machines to good use Arno!
Kim

[Canterbury Coxswain]

I have just come across a photo I looked for [amongst some 1,700] when completing Reply #615 above. It shows the ratchet strap lying in its 'stowed' position, where it rests at all times when ashore and at sea - holding the recovery strop in place, juxtapose to the central SeaCatch Dynex 'Y' bridle [bow retainer] that holds the Shannon class lifeboat in position on its carriage with 6 tons of pressure [it has a breaking strain of 32 tons]. The recovery strop is released only when the boat comes to rest on return from an outing, then using the boat hook, it is attached to the launch and recovery tractor winch wire and the Shannon is pulled back into position on the carriage - as shown in my photos above. However, it is only on those boats that are launched from a tractor pulled carriage. As previously mentioned those, such as the one at Amble [13-16] have a 'less cluttered' fore-deck without one as they 'lie afloat' and do not require recovery in such a manner.
C.C.

*Second photo courtesy of 17-09, taken at Dover.

[Flundle (Speedline Models)]

Nice work Arno and you too Kim of course. But Kim, this time you have to paint it!

[Tugboat adam]

Hi Kim your life boat looks good

[T33cno]

Thanks Arno - you're not the first one to make that comment of 'painting' the metal parts, but then I'm quite slow at this [painting] so it will leave it this way for quite a while!
Something else you and a few other 1/12th Shannon builders might like.....................
Having seen T33cno's Post at the weekend on his Speedline Shannon build reminded me that somewhere in my large box containing my Red Bull Dakar Rally VW Toureg radio controlled model was a ratchet strap mechanism from RC4WD in the USA, someone I had bought some beautiful anodised ali wheels and adjustable axle stands from in the past - direct from America.
Here is one. On the 1/12th model this should be 20mm in length and 10mm width. If larger then it is a 1/10th scale like mine - 24.5mm by 11.5mm in width, but for the moment it has changed boxes and is now in the one labelled 'Shannon'. Of course if you are building 13-16 [from Amble] you will not need one as she lies afloat and does not need to be recovered by the method shown here at Dungeness. It is used to stow the recovery strop to the deck. The good news is this little 'oversized' item can be got from www.modelsport.co.uk as item Z-S1009 RC4WD Ratchet tie down assembly [workable] and already made-up! Not cheap at £21.84, but another item sourced! And from these folk you will not have to pay import duty!!
Kim [C.C.]

Thanks for that Kim! A real working ratchet with strap    no brainer    One on the way 


Love your work 

[Mr Plastic]

Bonjour Canterbury Coxswain,
Brilliant and informative Blog, Keep up the good work.
Best Retards
Mr Plastic ( Fantastic ).

[me3]

However, it is only on those boats that are launched from a tractor pulled carriage. As previously mentioned those, such as the one at Amble [13-16] have a 'less cluttered' fore-deck without one as they 'lie afloat' and do not require recovery in such a manner.
C.C.

*Second photo courtesy of 17-09, taken at Dover.

Something just to note, I expect you have already noticed but all boats have the hydraulic pipe coming out of the deck next to the bollard regardless of if they're afloat and the arm and launch button on the dash. This is so the sea catch can be easily retro fitted if required.