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Author Topic: Revells 1:72 Flower Class Corvette to full RC (Weathered version Snowberry)  (Read 35116 times)

Voyager

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Thought i would share my progress on converting Revells Flower Class Corvette (Snowberry) I decided to go with a weathered version (Much more realistic....if it's done correctly!) For reference i purchased the film ''The Cruel Sea'' which is based around the Flower Class, even tho it's an old B/W movie, it gave me the information i needed as regards the weathering process. For those who are thinking about getting the Revell kit, a word of warning.....dont expect the parts to fit together correctly, unless you spend time making them fit! If i was to start again, i would rather go with the Matchbox version as the tooling is the same, but the moulding's are cleaner(If you can still get hold of it?)
The model has been fitted with a Prop Shop shaft and prop, with a custom oiler tube added. Power is supplied by a 385 motor connected to a Robo double coupling.....Right and now onto the painting. The model was airbrushed using Humbrol enamel paints, after first spraying the hull with Halfords acrylic white plastic primer. To obtain a super smooth finish, the primer needs to be lightly sanded before applying any enamel paints. The first enamel paint applied was a satin white over the whole hull, which was left to dry for two days, after which the hull was masked off and a number of light coat enamel satin black was sprayed on, and again left for two days to fully harden. The remaining colours applied which consisted of Humbrol (89) for the blue, and Humbrol (23) for the green. The model was still looking like a plastic kit, or a dockyard fresh of the production line boat.....but that's the way some people like it! Carefull aplications of Humbrol (62) with a fine brush started the rusting process, then before the paint dried, use an old paint brush to apply a dusting of ''Light Rust'' pigment powders available from MIG Productions. Then using a soaked in thinners cotton bud, dab the area you just applied rust on with the cotton bud to seal in the powders, and for that extra touch, touch the area and drag it down to the water line. For darker and heavier rust you can use Humbrol (70) and again using the same application process as before. For small chips in the paint and scratches i use Karismacolor pencils, you can find these at most good art shops, silver 949, black 935, tuscan red 937, burnt oche 943. If you over weather an area, or it just doent look right, you can remove it with a cotton but soaked in thinners. Last of all to highlight and raise any detail, a thinned wash of Winton oil washes (Again from your local art shop) over the whole model, this is best left to dry for an hour or when the wash turns dull. Plenty of toilet roll should be on hand to gently remove some of the wash, but the detailed area's should remain.
Once your happy with everything, a coat of satin or matt varnish locks everything in.....and there you have it.....a realistic weathered model...i hope!


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Tester

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Very nice job, look forward to seeing some more pics as the build progresses.

Richard
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Voyager

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Many thanks ;D! I will keep you posted.


Kind regards: Voyager.
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justboatonic

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That weathering looks really impressive!
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Voyager

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Thanks ;D
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Voyager

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....And here is what i have completed tonight, and along with a picture of my internal setup.
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White Ensign

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Voyager- a really nice job. Go on with it and please keep us informed about any progress.

Happy modeling,
J?rg
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Martin (Admin)

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How annoyingly good is that? :o  >:(  ;)
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cbr900

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Maybe you can solve a small problem for me I have noticed most of you gentleman seem to use the system of an oiler type tube on your prop shafts is there any particular reason for doing it this way, as most of the models I have seen or buitl myself over here in Australia seem to just use vaseline syringed into the prop shaft then wind and push the shaft into the tube with your finger over the other end which forces the vaseline around the shaft and fills the cavity forming a greased shaft which is waterproof and will not need to be looked at for years..

Roy
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Voyager

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We find that with an oiler tube fitted, it makes servicing a breaze! There is no need to strip out the prop shaft and undo the prop, and on top of that there is less drag like you would have with grease, so the motor is not having to over work itself. All my club memebers have them fitted, if you do decide to fit one? Remember to put a cap over the tube, othewise the oil wont stay in the tube for very long.
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dannymax

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I use an oiler tube but have never fitted a cap over the top....maybe that explains the pool of water i often have at the end of a sail...I always thought the air pressure would blow the cap off the tube, dont know where I picked that piece of info up from but I assume its wrong..Off to find something to use as a cap ....
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Voyager

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Try asking in a RC shop for an arial cap, it is made of rubber and fits nicely providing the tube is not to big.
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dannymax

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thanks for the tip
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cbr900

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Thank you Voyager I had never thought of trying that but I can see the merits of ther system so I will test it out on the next tug and see what happens if it is as good as you say then I will be in for some wrok to change all the other models over to the system.. Thanks again..

Roy
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guard_jamie

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What sort of oil is best to use in the prop shaft?
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Voyager

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IF YOU GO TO AN RC CAR SHOP AND ASK FOR PURE SILICONE OIL, IT CAN BE PURCHASED IN A VARIETY OF THICKNESSES. FOR SMALLER BOATS USE A THINNER OIL, LARGER BOATS CAN USE A MUCH THICKER OIL AS RULE.

HOPE THIS HELPS!
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Voyager

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Sorry its been a while, been busy working of late, and what with the high temp....well it was too hot for modeling! Here is the latest on my weathered Snowberry. I have filled the portholes in with 5min epoxy, and then painted the portholes semi-black, should stop that nasty liquid from entering uninvited. Start working on the main superstructure now, its a case biulding then painting, and then...well you get the drift.

Hope you like what you see so far!


Regards:Voyager
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Voyager

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Well  had another whole day of just weathering, trying to tone down all those new pure white add-ons. This weathering malarky is doing my head in :'(....aaahhhh! And i still have a billion and one parts to assemble and paint :P

Having a days break today, if i'm in the mood, then i might have a bash this evening.

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ambernblu

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..... hi, fantastic stuff, I can sympathise with all the weathering you are doing - good idea, bad idea?? So yep, I've got one of these to start as well and your pics have certainly inspired me think about making some headway with it sooner or later....

What power source have you used, as it is single shaft, a 385 5 pole low drain type? Or is that not quite powerful enough?

Cheers

Brian
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Voyager

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Hi Brian,

Yup, it's a 385 alright. A friend of mine has built one using one of these motors, and it went rather well indeed! The tooling is rather crude, so not all the parts fit together great, but with a little bit of tinkering with some filler and a file, you can make them fit.
I have just this minute found a link to a full size Corvette, here is the link: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.ziobrowski.net/rnm/sackville/800/DSC04099.JPG&imgrefurl=http://www.ziobrowski.net/rnm/index.php%3Fi%3Dsackville&h=600&w=800&sz=45&hl=en&start=62&tbnid=yfpaEa3fr7SSoM:&tbnh=106&tbnw=142&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dflower%2Bclass%2Bcorvette%26start%3D54%26ndsp%3D18%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DGGLG,GGLG:2006-12,GGLG:en%26sa%3DN

Not had achance to go over the site yet, but should come in very handy.


Regards:Wayne.
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ambernblu

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.... hi Wayne... thanks for the assistance and advice, I'll check out that link too - every little helps!  ;)

I understand the Revell kit doesn't go together as well as the Matchbox kit did (they fetch more dosh on eBay too if you fancy getting stuck in there! I certainly don't!)

Not sure if i'll be doing the weathering though.... I'll have to give that some thought! ....Mmmmmm!

Let you know how I get on and what I'm going to make a start on....

regards, Brian
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Voyager

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Good stuff...oh the other advantage in the matchbox, you get instructions to build either the Snowberry, Saucy, or the Bluebell.


Hope to hear some updates on your build soon!


Regards:Wayne.
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Shipmate60

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A 385 motor and 35mm brass prop on 6 or 7.2 volts will give plenty of power, bit too much, but useful in strong winds.
One thing that is Vital for this model is to ballast her deep or they can look very toy-like.

Bob
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Voyager

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Many thanks Bob, i am going to use 2x 6v 4amp power batteries, as this seems to bring her to the correct waterline. Incase you wondered, the other battery will just be used as a spare, should the need arise.
I may indeed leave out one battery and add a sound system, smoke, and maybe working radar.....Maybe? ???
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ambernblu

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... Cheers Bob, thats great thanks - I had remembered your specific comments about ballasting these kits deep from a previous thread on these models.

I'm seriously aiming to finish one project off before Xmas at least (!) but just not sure which one!  ;D
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