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[warspite]

wish mine was that tidy, when i get chance to get the thing next to the computer web cam i will try and post a few photo's of the wreck - sorry boat, yea sorry boat

[Voyager]

It can't be that bad!

[warspite]

you have not seen it yet.

[warspite]

here she is, when she did not look too bad

[Voyager]

That looks ok! Nice colour markings.

[warspite]

apparently they used whatever they got there hands on to fit them out so i have a boffors at the back and i say that they ran out of paint and used the yellow at the front (sorry - biscuit) and the funnel area.

[malcolmfrary]

Looking at the deck cut-out, I assume that there's a coaming going in there?

About the colours - I saw a story somewhere that the green part of the camo scheme gradually reduced as the war went on because the supply of green paint was going to the army, who wanted more and more as they got more tanks & things of that nature to colour in.

[warspite]

just shows you what changing a bmp format to jpeg does to photo's, the three colours are biscuit front, funnel and below it and a bit at the back (this is so old i dont remember where the colour came from - may have ben from the matchbox colour chart), then there is M3 grey (light) and  something like a dark tank grey.

the only part of the deck that is not removable is the bit at the front where the windlass is up to the breakwater i.e. the end of the front yellow bit.

[Ivor the Engine]

Following my query as to a suitable "warship" for a first build, I have now obtained a Revell Flower class corvette. I have built the hull and have sealed the internal seams with epoxy resin, but I would appreciate some advice with regards to motor, ESC and rudder.

With regards to the motor, will a "385" type be sufficient to replicate a scale speed?

I am unsure of which ESC to fit. as a first build, all I am looking to achieve is a model that is capable of sailing forwards/backwards and steering to the left and right. I am not aiming to fit and operating accessory items etc, therefore can anyone suggest a suitable (basic) speed controller?

Finally, I am proposing to use the rudder supplied with the kit, albeit with a smaller brass one sandwiched between the two halves of the Revell one. My query relates to fitting the rudder assembly to the hull. I have read about using several different diameter brass tubes, soldered together, to form a telescoping assembly, but wonder if anyone has any advice as to other approaches which I could consider.

Apologies for the lengh of the post!

[Voyager]

Glad to see you going for an rc version With regards to the speed controller, MTronic do a basic marine version which retails for £20.00, and it's waterproof. The 385 motor is perfect, as that's what my other club members have used and it runs very well indeed. Make sure that you fit a double coupling and not a single, the double runs much smoother without any tight spot in the turns. When it comes to doing the rudder, make sure that the outer tube is higher than the water line. I used the kit rudder for mine, but i modified it to allow a solid brass tube to go through the made up rudder, remember to grease the tube as it could be difficult to take it apart when the boat is fully assembled. The prop and shaft can be obtained from Prop-Shop which can be found in Marine Modeller or Model Boats mags. The last bid of advice to you is to not use the kit hull windows, better to glue plasticard on the inner hull and paint them black on the outside after.

Good Luck with it!


Voyager.

[Ivor the Engine]

Thanks Voyager, by the way your photo's of the painted model are an inspiration! If mine only turns out to be half as good I'll be over the moon.

[Voyager]

That's very nice of you, thanks!

If you need any help i'm only an e-mail away!!


Regards:Voyager

[DickyD]

This is mine.

Bit of a rust bucket, but it is US Navy !

Great fun to make.

Hope you enjoy yours.

Richard   :) :)

[Too Large - attachment deleted by admin]

[cbr900]

Looks pretty good mate, I am still yet to try weathering, I think it must be the hardest part of modelling....



Roy

[malcolmfrary]

To make life a little easier on mine, I arranged a removable bit of deck around the DC rails for access to the rudder linkage.  I sail in salt 'n silt so regular servicing is essential.

[DickyD]

Bit more detail please, have been wondering how to get round the rudder problem and still keep the wet stuff out.

Richard            ???          ???

[malcolmfrary]

As you look at the area of the aft deck where the DC rails mount, there are four moulded lines.  Use these as a guide to cut out a manhole, and mount the DC rails on this.  (Helps hide the cut line).  Strips of plasticard make a ledge to stop the assembly dropping through, and when in use a smear of vaseline or similar round the edge resists any wet stuff trying to get in that way.
You can then see and get at the top of the rudder arrangement.
Like I said, sailing in salty water means that servicing is a regular occurence, and the easiest way to get the propshaft out is to get the rudder out of the way first, rather than taking the prop off and fiddling about pulling it up the inside of the hull.  Persuading it to go back that way has problems as well.

[Ivor the Engine]

Hi Guys,

I'm building the "Flower" as a first build RC model. I've managed to get to build an seal the hull, install a propshaft and modify the rudder. At this stage I need to think about painting the hull. I don't have an airbrush, and i don't propose to buy one in the near future, so I was hoping to use the Halford's spray paints to paint the larger areas of the model.

I have both the John Lambert Warship perspectives book and a series of colour side elevations by Bob Pearson. However, as a first build, I would like to keep the paint scheme simple. As a further thought, I would prefer to model an RN ship as opposed to the RCN.

The problem is that I can't seem to find a simple paint scheme listed (i.e. overall grey, possibly with a darker grey stripe as a rudimentary form of camouflage). I have seen pictures of other peoples models where they have used a two tone grey with a red hull. While I'm not attempting to replicate every detail in miniature, I would like the model to appear credible, although it is unlikely to be entered for any competitions. Can anyone advise me of colour schemes that they have used, and the names/numbers of the paints.

many thanks,

ITE

[DickyD]

This site will give you all different camouflage schemes for Flower Class.

http://www.cbrnp.com/profiles/naval/Flower_Class-Corvettes.htm

I dont know the paint nos i'm afraid.

i painted mine by hand using a 1/2" modelling brush and Tamiya acrylics.
 
The original ships were pretty badly treated and weathered so an emaculate paint job would be a bit out of place.

Richard 

[Turbulent]

Two Corvettes & a wreck site, caused by leaving a model on the pool side on a windy day with no stand!

[Voyager]

The wrecked version below was once the model that started this thread   I'm gonna have nightmares tonight after seeing this.

[ron h]

The wrecked version below was once the model that started this thread   I'm gonna have nightmares tonight after seeing this.

It looks like rust set in, put on some rust inhibiter, and do a rebuild.

[Bunkerbarge]

Whichever way you look at it that is a very sad sight.  It just goes to show that you can't take your eyes of them when they are outside and you must be thinking of every possibility.

I just hope it can be rebuilt.

[Turbulent]

The wrecked version below was once the model that started this thread   I'm gonna have nightmares tonight after seeing this.

Are you sure? this one lived at Norwich and was owned by a freind of mine, did you sell it to him, the wreck was lphotographed in Nov 05.

[Voyager]

When you spend 4 or 5 months working on a model, you know it inside out! This was mine 100%!!!

The fading on the lower hull was done first with black, then a number of dark grey colours applied in a random pattern. The prop shaft and prop was from prop-shop, and the prop shaft had a plasti-card block support inside. The portholes are all glued from inside, then painted black on the ouside. The wheelhouse windows are frosted, and the faded panel lines on the rear superstructure was acheived with Winston oil washes.