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[Sonar]

When Joining the forum I did not know what I would like to build.

It was mentioned  in a fist posting that I should look at the springer tug.

Well It is a start and decided to have a go as my very first model.

Many thanks to Martin ( Admin ) for posting the hull details.

I have started the hull and have the size and shape right.

AS for everything on deck well EEERRR in doors is doing that part 

Me I have the hull and motor bits to sort.

Well a total novice i have looked through the forum the best i can and cant find a dummy’s guide.

So the question is   What motors size and shaft prop and in fact everything.

Where to buy what to get and then to top it off where does it all go ?

Told you I was a total Novice.

Is there a member that has a guide to this  or all the details posted somewhere.

Like this is the motor  size  where to buy.
Then all the other bits as well. shaft and prop size  and  everything.

Or a member that has the time to write something like this and post it for others to follow ?

Many thanks

Sonar.

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

We do have a section dedicated to springer tugs.  Have a read through some of the blogs and you will get an idea of what's required.

Basically you will need a 500 type motor or larger along with a prop shaft and propeller and also a rudder, controlled by a servo and speed controller.  You will also need a 2.4 gig radio which can used for any future boats as well.

cheers

ken
 

[ballastanksian]

A member called Norman started out just like you and his Springer topic has many questions and answers that will help you loads. I am pleased to hear that your wife is very involved in your hobby as well and look forward to seeing your joint effort soon 

Stop Press! The chapo is called Norman Castyle and he has gone Springer crazy! Lots to see and learn from his topics in the Springer section.
 

[Sonar]

We do have a section dedicated to springer tugs.  Have a read through some of the blogs and you will get an idea of what's required.

Basically you will need a 500 type motor or larger along with a prop shaft and propeller and also a rudder, controlled by a servo and speed controller.  You will also need a 2.4 gig radio which can used for any future boats as well.

cheers

ken
 

Many thanks Ken that's a good start for me.

[Sonar]

A member called Norman started out just like you and his Springer topic has many questions and answers that will help you loads. I am pleased to hear that your wife is very involved in your hobby as well and look forward to seeing your joint effort soon 

Stop Press! The chapo is called Norman Castyle and he has gone Springer crazy! Lots to see and learn from his topics in the Springer section.

Many thanks for the reply  will go through the springer tub section again.

[Sonar]

Started the hull. But because I would like to make two  I have made the Plug in 1/2" mdf.





Now filled sanded  I am about to use a primer paint then sand back and use a stopper to fill in all the pin holes.







I will also add a small keel enough to pass the prop shaft through This will make fitting and sealing the shaft a lot easier.




With still a lot to do yet before I get to start polishing and preparing  for the mould work yet to come.

[ballastanksian]

Are you making a one part or two part mould? Good progress so far:O)

[Sonar]

It will be a single part mould.

I still have some fine filling to do and then finish with 1200 Grade wet and dry paper.
Used dry as the mdf does not like getting wet and will swell up.

Then a few coats of G3 polish till it shines then starts the layers of moulding wax polish.

6 or 8 coats over a few days.
Then the plug should be ready.

[Sonar]

I have now completed the plug.




After some fine filling and a coat of car primer/Stopper.
I have now sanded the whole plug with 1200 wet and dry .

Now  to start applying polish. About 8 coats should do it allowing  drying time of about an hour between each coat.
The polish is called Meguiars Mirror glaze 8
Maximum mold release wax. Any solid wax polish should be ok providing it does NOT contain Styrene..

Polish on allow and Hour Polish off allow 1/2 hour and repeat.

This will in turn result in a build-up of wax polish.

Next to do Will be to  fit the Keel  and then prep a flat base ready to place the plug onto so as I can make the Mould.  The base will also have to have the same polish treatment and the plug.

[Sonar]

I have the keel to fit now.
So treated in the same way as the plug I drilled two very small holes in the hull so as to screw the keel to the hull.

Now a very small amount of modellers plasticine spread to the edges of the keel .

The plasticine will stop any gelcoat from seeping between the hull and the keel .



The keel placed into position and screwed to the hull from the inside.



The access plasticine  is removed with a craft knife and another coat of polish is applied around the keel where it is fixed to the hull.




Also plasticine to the top of the hull and turned over and placed on the base board.
Again polished.




The plug is now ready for the next stage.

[Captain Cautious]

Looks very nice Sonar. What with the MDF plug covered with at this stage? I'm inquiring about the 'orange' coating that you have used to cover the mdf. Cheers!

[Sonar]

2k paint it was All I had.

[ballastanksian]

Quite a nice shade of orange:O)

I was wondering how you would fair the top edge of the plug in and I have learnt a new tip from you with that plasticine, thanks.

[Netleyned]

If the mould turns out as good as the plug
you may have a few customers


Ned

[Sonar]

Applying the PVA release agent.
 
The PVA is applied in a very very thin coat.
A small piece of cotton TEE SHIRT is Ideal for this.
Soaked and then just wiped over the plug.

 
If if it applied too  thick you will see a pattern of parting a little like
water on a sheet of wax paper.

 
So very thin application is needed.

 
Allow to dry fully. In a warm room this will not take long and the solvent in the PVA evaporates.

 
I have in the past used Washing up liquid direct from the bottle and applied the same way with great success ..

 

 
Next the Gelcot.

 
I have used a standard black gelcoat and will apply two good layers.

 


 
The reason being any imperfections can be buffed out of the finished mould using an automotive G3 liquid polish.

 
I will do this imperfections or not when the plug has been removed from the mould.

 
To mix the gelcoat visually see how much you will need to paint the mould thickly .

 
Add a small amount of Catalyst and give a good mix.

 
I use the bottom part of milk cartons as there plastic that does not melt with resin  or gelcoat.

 
Before placing gelcoat into the container I use the polish and then buff off.
This means any stuff left in the container can be easily removed and the container can be used again.

 
Gelcoat cures  but the outside is very tacky the gelcoat is designed like this the aid the laminating process.

 
Depending on the amount of catalyst added will determine the curing time.

 
Temperature must be warm NOT FREEZING  If the gelcoat does NOT have enough catalyst mixed the it will take a longer time to cure .

 
The longer it takes to cure in time it will eat through the PVA and polish and you will NOT be able to remove the plug .
More catalyst is better but again cuts down the working time.

 
If the gelcoat in the mixing container starts to cure STOP.

And mix another batch to finish the job.

[Sonar]

Use a clean mixing stick for each application of Gelcoat.

 
Cleaning brushes after use must be done with ACETONE

 

 
You can buy small bottles if your doing small items from  shop outlets that sells NAIL VARNISH REMOVER  Same stuff.  Acetone.

 

 
Laying up the mould.
Chopped strand matting  small bits all with torn edges  this makes the external side of the mould  appear to have no lumps and joins.

 
Start with laying strips around the bottom on the board.
The first layer just touches the base and the hull.

 
The second and more layers start on the base and go up the hull.

 


 

 
The keel is next again around the base first and then the whole lot of the keel.

 

 


 
After laying up the mould ..

 
Some timber is laminated onto the  mould outside so to form a level and steady base for  laminating the moulding .

 


 
After you have formed the moulding and it has cured and your having trouble removing moulding a top tip it to take a wooden clothes peg take it apart and put one into one SIDE like a wedge Do the same the other side and pour HOT water down both sides.

 
Eventually the hot water melts though the PVA and the mould should release all on it's own.

 
If necessary tip the water out after half an hour and refill again with hot water. Or leave it overnight.

 

 

 
 

[Sonar]

I decided it would be better to form a fixed top deck area that would make fixing the superstructure
Easier and would not be too hard to make a good join between hull and deck.

 


 

 


 

 
Laminating the Hull and the lipping.

 

 


 

 
Now the moulding has been pulled  just a top area to trim off and then form an up-stand that the cabin ect would just fit over.

 

 


 

 


 
So I will be able to now make a  template  and be able to start the top section with out having to have the hull hanging about.

 

 

 
 

[Captain Cautious]

This has been a most interesting tutorial.  Thank you for taking the time to share this.

[tugnut]

Yes very interesting i like the tip with PVA i will give that a try on my next hull.
regards John B.

[Sonar]

Pulled out of the mould and untrimmed  weighing in at 845 grammes.

Is this too heavy ? .
The orange gelcoat needs three coats as it is hard to cover.

I could maybe trim the weight down a little .

But the question is heavy or o.k. weight wise..

[Netleyned]

Don't worry about weight.
Mine is f/glass has two 6v SLAS at
710 grammes each and still needed
ballast

Just weighed it ready for the lake today at 3.5Kilos
Ned

[ballastanksian]

Do you do this for a living Sonar as you are exceptionally good at it. I would say that it is almost ready to varnish as there is only the outer top edge and inner lip to tidy 

I agree with Ned, you could probably part fund your hobby through selling a few of these hulls, possibly a whole kit.

Lovely work.

[Sonar]

Do you do this for aliving Sonar as yu are exceptionally good at it. I would say that it is almost ready to varnish as there is only the outer top edge and inner lip to tidy 

I agree with Ned, you could probably part fund your hobby through selling a few of these hulls, possibly a whole kit.

Lovely work.

Many years ago Retired now.

The hulls are finished in Gelcaot and ready to fit everything into.
No painting or Varnish required.
The lip around the inside  edge makes things a lot easier to when it comes to fitting the top section.

A small upright lip boundary can be fitted  to prevent the water from coming over the front if it is required.

with just a strait upright hull one would have to glue some sort of timber inside so as the deck could be fitted just inside it. or level with the top .

Thats done and can now be trimmed as required. and formed as part of the hull.


I have something else I am working on  But will post that at a later date.
That will be a whole kit again in GRP.

[ballastanksian]

Hmm, Intriguing!

[Sonar]

Well my very first model is ready for sea trials .

Basic and along the way many many lessons have been learnt.

Rough and ready.











Made with just about anything I could find around the garage.
Using a Stanley knife and some sandpaper along with PVA glue
and a some household paints.

So now the second one has started.  Hopefully better than the last with a few lessons learnt from the first one.

I made the complete tops interchangeable  so I can make as many tops as I wish and add some more detail. And each top will fit the hull.

But for now it will get us on a pond . all the electrical stuff is working just have to float it now and see if and where it needs ballast.